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Unread 05/19/2019, 02:51 PM   #1
Kengar
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Long-Term Sealing Performance of Plasto-Joint?

Posting here, too.....

So yesterday I found a bunch of crystallized salt all around a fitting where other components (including a double-union ball valve) are joined to it using Plasto-Joint to seal the threaded connections. When I cleared off the salt build-up, I could feel/see water trickling around the fitting. I closed valves to isolate the section of plumbing and swapped out the ball valve, using a whole bunch more Plasto-Joint around the new threaded nipple. It seems to be dry today.

Additionally, I saw salt crystallized around another section of plumbing, which is, unfortunately, in a location that prevents full/clear access. I was able to reach up from under the tank and knock away the salt build-up, then pack plumber's putty all around the connection the best I could, but I am concerned about longevity of this "patch." (The joint is at a union in the Bean Animal siphon line, just below the overflow box -- which is sandwiched between the 7-foot, 250 gallon tank and the wall. Worst case scenario is that I cut out a section of the wall from the other side to access it if I need to, but I DON"T want to go there.....)

The system has been running for maybe seven or eight months by now, and was test run for several weeks before I started to add substrate, rock, live stock, etc., to make sure the plumbing was solid.

Which brings me to my question: what is the long-term sealing performance of Plasto-Joint? I applied LIBERALLY to all joints that were threaded, and I hand-tightened then gave just a little extra to seat the parts. Does water -- saltwater, in particular -- ultimately channel its way through the Plasto-Joint?

The first joint referenced above is maybe three feet from the return pump (Sicce ADV 9.0, rated for 2500 gph at no head), downstream of a 90 degree turn (large radius) in a line that is branched off from the main return "manifold" (another large-radius turn), so it is under SOME pressure. But the other joint (in the Bean Animal siphon line) isn't under pressure beyond that of the falling-water suction.

Thanks for input.


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Unread 05/31/2019, 08:03 PM   #2
mfinn
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I haven't heard of any joints failing because of anything especially salt creep.
I have a few threaded joints ( that I have easy access to) that I used the same sealant stick that are several years old and I see no evidence of anything amiss.
I'll have to look for more.

As far as the hole in the wall thing, I had a 1-1/2" bulkhead fitting that started leaking, that was the suction side of my closed loop.
Same thing as you, in a place that only cutting a hole in the wall would cure.
So I did.
I cut a 2' x 2' section of sheetrock out from the garage side.
Then a 1' x 1' hole on the dining room side that had diagonal cedar 1x3's.
As long as the tank sits there no one will notice.


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Unread 06/01/2019, 01:39 PM   #3
Kengar
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Fortunately for me, there would only be one layer of sheet rock to cut through, since the other side of the wall is the Hvac/water heater room and is unfinished. I’d have to work between the studs and above and below a cross beam between studs, but it could be done. Working in the space between the sump and the wall and straddling the incoming plumbing will be a PITA, but what enjoyable parts of this hobby aren’t????


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Unread 06/02/2019, 06:44 AM   #4
FamilyTank
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Location: Downriver,Mi
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I have NEVER done this.
My 10yr old and I are into RC cars. These things will run 45 miles an hour all day long. And of course they take a beating. And that's unmodified stock right out of the box. The bodies are a thin polycarbonate / lexon. That in time become destroyed from all the rollovers and tumbling and hitting curbs and Etc. To strengthen the body we use fabric drywall tape and Shoe Goo. Maybe you could just line the exposed joint with Shoe Goo. My neighbor uses Shoe Goo to help with his vinyl fencing outside.


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