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09/09/2008, 09:34 PM | #126 | |
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http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...readid=1349443
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I prefer my substrates stirred but not shaken Current Tank Info: 150gal long mixed reef, 90gal sump, 60 gal refugium with 200 lbs live rock |
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09/09/2008, 09:47 PM | #127 | |
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09/09/2008, 09:50 PM | #128 | |
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09/09/2008, 09:54 PM | #129 | |
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What do those pendant MH's cost in the states. I was quoted 650 each.
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I prefer my substrates stirred but not shaken Current Tank Info: 150gal long mixed reef, 90gal sump, 60 gal refugium with 200 lbs live rock |
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09/09/2008, 10:07 PM | #130 |
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I haven't looked into it that much yet.
As far as the cost per unit... I plan on piecing my units together based off of Sanjay's lighting site. So I can be certain I'm getting the most bang for my buck. I'm not sure T5's can compete with 400w halides at 30" depth, but will need to do some more research before making a final decision. The lighting will be the last purchase. So I've got some time, and I plan on soliciting a few opinions before making my final decision.
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"Enough light? Heck I could go barebottom and grow SPS in the stand!" - DiscoReefRover |
09/09/2008, 10:31 PM | #131 |
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I don't think you'll get as good of light penetration with the t5's that you would get with the halides. So you'll probably get better PAR and Lux ratings on the sand bed with the halides.
Since we're just adding more money onto your hypothetical bill, why not get a LED system? What's another $3,000 when you're already spending enough to put a down payment on a house?
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Nature V.S. Nurture: Nature Always Wins. Current Tank Info: 12 gallon Aquapod reef with LED's, multiple nano's at work. |
09/10/2008, 12:15 AM | #132 |
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Whats that saying once you go halide you nver go back. Hadlides welcome to light (dark) side (corny darth vader reference) I smell 400watters 3 of em. maybe some T5 actinics. Good thing you drive a Mazda, you save all that extra money on gas now you can buy one of my stained glass tangs
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09/10/2008, 04:33 AM | #133 |
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Just catching up on the thread, I too was surprised about the lighting, but get it. Trust me, I get the whole lighting the bottom of the tank thing! I hate the bottom of my tank, well not hate, just a strong dislike. I wish someone would come up with a submersable light that we tall tank havers could put inside the tank, built into a fake LR. There you go Teej, I just T'd you up to make you millions!
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Rae N. She wasn't wicked, she only liked the shoes!!! Current Tank Info: 60 Gall Hex, 3 #3's, no fuge..........YET!!! |
09/10/2008, 07:23 AM | #134 | |
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Thanks for the info Capn, I look forward to reading it. Also thanks to D to the P, for your reply. It makes sense now. Hopefully, with all of these ideas I will be able to build something similar. |
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09/10/2008, 07:31 AM | #135 | |
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I prefer my substrates stirred but not shaken Current Tank Info: 150gal long mixed reef, 90gal sump, 60 gal refugium with 200 lbs live rock |
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09/10/2008, 07:45 AM | #136 |
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I wouldn't jump that easy Scott.
It's not that cut and dry. A lot of things need to be taken into consideration. If your looking at 150w/175w halides... Then it's been my experience that T5's w/ individual reflectors will beat them, hands down. If your looking at 250w halides... I believe the T5's with the IceCap ballasts & Individual reflectors will definitely compete with, if not beat out most 250w bulb, ballast, reflector combinations. However, when you get into the 400w halides... I think it's gets harder for the T5's to keep up with the halides. Like I said, I need to do some research before choosing a side.
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09/10/2008, 08:02 AM | #137 |
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Also, it obviously depends what your housing in your system... as you may not have high lighting demands
I want to be able to grow SPS successfully at all levels of the 30" tank... So I'm looking for raw, intense, crushing, growth power. (I think) That being said, I've seen tanks where SPS corals will actually grow away from the light, because it is too intense for them. Plus your spectrum with the halides will come into play. There are just SO many things to consider. I don't believe there is a simple "one size fits all" answer. When it comes time to make a decision, I'll be looking at each scenario in depth before making a decsion. On my 90g tank... After doing research, I came to the conclusion that the T5's were the best fit. I can't assume this will translate into the 220... although it very well may. |
09/10/2008, 09:39 AM | #138 | |
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I'll be trying to find most everything used... so hopefully it wont be that bad. |
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09/10/2008, 09:43 AM | #139 | |
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I'm also a little curious about the "shimmer" effect everyone raves about. |
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09/10/2008, 09:49 AM | #140 | |
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09/10/2008, 10:24 AM | #141 |
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Capn', each tank is different and it all depends on what you want to do. From what I understand, there isn't much that compares to 400watt metal halide (although I've read that LED's are very very close) when it comes to penetration. If you want to have clams on the bottom, or even if you just don't want to only have SPS corals around the top, then you would need to get a light that can penetrate deep into the water. I don't believe there is anything that would work better than a 400 watt metal halide in that case.
But, as TJ said, there are other situations where T5 would be more than sufficient. Especially if you overdrive the bulbs with an ice cap ballast. I would still use T5's if my situation called for the same penetration that a 250 metal halide would provide simply because of the money it would save. Some people really like the shimmer effect of the halides, and as far as I'm concerned its really the only selling point that halides have going for them (250 watts and less that is). Just like everything else, people have mixed results with different methods. Some people still think you get better growth and color using halides, others now swear by T5's, and some even still refuse to move along with the technology and they are still using VHO's. So, it'll take some deep thinking, consideration, and planning as to what you want your tank to be. If it's the route that TJ is going, a SPS dominant tank, than you'll want to make sure that you get the best light for that situation. If the tank is 30" high, I would go with halides. If the tank is only 24" high, I might consider using T5's instead. But if I won the lottery, I'd be trying out one of the new LED systems and probably spend the rest of the winnings on getting it repaired every other month because they are still so cheaply and unreliably made (in China) from what I've heard.
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Nature V.S. Nurture: Nature Always Wins. Current Tank Info: 12 gallon Aquapod reef with LED's, multiple nano's at work. |
09/10/2008, 10:39 AM | #142 |
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Here's what I'm thinking about doing with the garage. The remaining room on the top shelf will be left empty in the beginning, but I may hook up a frag tank there eventually.
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"Enough light? Heck I could go barebottom and grow SPS in the stand!" - DiscoReefRover Last edited by Tswifty; 09/10/2008 at 10:51 AM. |
09/10/2008, 10:56 AM | #143 |
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What is the yellow PVC line suppose to represent?
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Thanks Patrick Current Tank Info: 220G Saltwater Tank and 90 gallon sump. |
09/10/2008, 10:58 AM | #144 |
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That's the siphon standpipe... Yellow font was hard to read, so I used black.
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09/10/2008, 11:00 AM | #145 |
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Looks good. I would plumb in a "T" for the frag tank now, with a vavle on it so when you do add it you won't have to re-do the return plumbing, just add to it.
I'm actually a little freaked out reading your build, nearly everything your doing/planning matchs with the plan in my head for my future upgrade. My wife and I are just finishing with the last details on buying our first home, and the basement has a large storage/furnance/breaker room right next to a large 3rd bedroom that I'm going to convert into a "Mans Room". A 180 or bigger will be going in the wall. Literally everything I'm planning, with the exception of the lights are the same, even the plumbing!
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09/10/2008, 11:01 AM | #146 |
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Looks like a good way to get a lot in a small space.
Are both the sump and fuge gonna be 75 gallon tanks? And if so, what are you going to do with all the extra room in the sump? You could always pile up some more live rock in there. And this time around, what are your plans for the fuge? Just another cheato farm, or a DSB with some live rock and plants like mangroves and macroalgae? It might be nice to have a fuge worth looking at. Especially if you end up getting another situation like what happened with the engineer goby or the CB shrimp.
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Nature V.S. Nurture: Nature Always Wins. Current Tank Info: 12 gallon Aquapod reef with LED's, multiple nano's at work. |
09/10/2008, 11:04 AM | #147 |
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Thanks. I kind of figured that. Just wanted to make sure.
For someone who is learning more and more with each thread, would you be able to put either arrows or a brief narrative on where the water is coming or going?
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Thanks Patrick Current Tank Info: 220G Saltwater Tank and 90 gallon sump. |
09/10/2008, 11:04 AM | #148 | |
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What about when it needs vacuumed? just kidding any ladies out there
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Nature V.S. Nurture: Nature Always Wins. Current Tank Info: 12 gallon Aquapod reef with LED's, multiple nano's at work. |
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09/10/2008, 11:12 AM | #149 |
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Tswifty8Makes perfect sense to me :-
- Isnt the second gate/ball valve on your siphon ( main to Sump) superfluous? - You might as well T-off the return for Calcium Reactor/Denitrator/Phosban/Carbon Reactors mow ( only teasing!) - Will your ATO go in the garage .. may as well build in now ... bang goes the frag tank space
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09/10/2008, 11:20 AM | #150 |
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..Actually rethinking .. wouldnt sump be better off at 90 degrees to make plumbing easier with skimmer section to left .. as it currently is the skimmer section and fuge overflow are at the same end ..
doesnt matter, but easily worked out ( by someone brighter than me)
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-Total Newbie - Havent kept a reef tank for 16 years. -Skiing Addict. - Love everything to do with the marine environment Current Tank Info: Watch this space .... |
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