GHA Problem Continues - Page 2

bertoni · 12/11/2018, 10:20 PM

You could try NOPOx. Tanks respond very differently to different nutrient control methods, as far as I can tell.

Sometimes, GFO can outcompete algae to bind inorganic phosphate, but that doesn't happen in all cases, so I'm not surprised that it's not working for you.

clevername · 12/31/2018, 07:52 PM

just so you remember as the algae dies then it releases ALL that phosphate back into the water. So manual removing is the best. Youll never get it naturally down on its own because of this (if large amounts are involved)

please watch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9zft6lJraRg

laverda · 12/31/2018, 09:08 PM

The small amount of cheeto you have is never going to remove enough nutrients to get your GHA under control. A simple ATS will do a much better job of removing nutrients. See my thread http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2687243 for some ideas on how to build one for almost nothing. By growing algae in an algae turf scrubber with the proper lighting, you can out compete the algae growing in your display, as your light Dt is not the ideal spectrum for algae. Going without light in your display for a few days will give the ATS a head start. A scrubber only takes a week or so to start growing algae. Then you just pull the screeen and give it a quick scrape after 2 weeks or so.
My nitrates are typically 20 and phosphates about .4. I grow all sorts of algae in my sump and ATS, but none in my display. I can easily reduce my levels by lighting my ATSs longer but my corals did not like it when I did so.

eutimio · 01/03/2019, 10:19 PM

I agree on the weak fuge light . A baseball size growth a month is nothing.
Think about the amount of light you have on your display. Trying to outcompete the hair algae in the display will take huge amounts of light in the refugium . People will say they grow chaeto with cheap fluorescent light and that is so, i grew it like that in the past, but we are not trying just to get decent growth, were trying to wipe out any algae from the display and grow all kinds of nasties in the sump. That’s how it should work and a weak light just won’t do.
I’m blasting my chaeto with over 1000 PAR, 2 taotronics bulbs with 60 degree lens 6 inches from the chaeto. Heavy blue and red spectrum.
When nutrients are there, chaeto grows like mad.
I started dosing nitrates and Phosphates because of 0 numbers and about that same time with 0 numbers chaeto stopped growing but now after dosing chaeto is growing again very fast, a basketball size every week and a half.

12/11/2018, 10:20 PM	#26
bertoni RC Mod Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Mountain View, CA, USA Posts: 88,616	You could try NOPOx. Tanks respond very differently to different nutrient control methods, as far as I can tell. Sometimes, GFO can outcompete algae to bind inorganic phosphate, but that doesn't happen in all cases, so I'm not surprised that it's not working for you. __________________ Jonathan Bertoni

12/31/2018, 09:08 PM	#28
laverda Registered Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Anaheim, CA Posts: 6,902	The small amount of cheeto you have is never going to remove enough nutrients to get your GHA under control. A simple ATS will do a much better job of removing nutrients. See my thread http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2687243 for some ideas on how to build one for almost nothing. By growing algae in an algae turf scrubber with the proper lighting, you can out compete the algae growing in your display, as your light Dt is not the ideal spectrum for algae. Going without light in your display for a few days will give the ATS a head start. A scrubber only takes a week or so to start growing algae. Then you just pull the screeen and give it a quick scrape after 2 weeks or so. My nitrates are typically 20 and phosphates about .4. I grow all sorts of algae in my sump and ATS, but none in my display. I can easily reduce my levels by lighting my ATSs longer but my corals did not like it when I did so. __________________ 240G mixed reef, 29G SPS/LPS clam tank, 50G mixed reef Current Tank Info: 300g mixed reef, 50g cube

12/31/2018, 07:52 PM	#27
clevername Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Manchester, MO Posts: 1,125	just so you remember as the algae dies then it releases ALL that phosphate back into the water. So manual removing is the best. Youll never get it naturally down on its own because of this (if large amounts are involved) please watch https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9zft6lJraRg

01/03/2019, 10:19 PM	#29
eutimio Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Posts: 102	I agree on the weak fuge light . A baseball size growth a month is nothing. Think about the amount of light you have on your display. Trying to outcompete the hair algae in the display will take huge amounts of light in the refugium . People will say they grow chaeto with cheap fluorescent light and that is so, i grew it like that in the past, but we are not trying just to get decent growth, were trying to wipe out any algae from the display and grow all kinds of nasties in the sump. That’s how it should work and a weak light just won’t do. I’m blasting my chaeto with over 1000 PAR, 2 taotronics bulbs with 60 degree lens 6 inches from the chaeto. Heavy blue and red spectrum. When nutrients are there, chaeto grows like mad. I started dosing nitrates and Phosphates because of 0 numbers and about that same time with 0 numbers chaeto stopped growing but now after dosing chaeto is growing again very fast, a basketball size every week and a half.