DIY Triangle Tank - Page 2

smithj108 · 02/16/2011, 12:50 PM

Yes, weaker adhesion to the acrylic is a major concern! I'm sure increasing the width of the contact patch on the exterior glass surface would eventually moot this concern - but to what ends? I obviously don't want two big ugly wide side brace thingys on my new tank.

What about adhereing the side braces with Plumbers Goop? I've used this stuff before on a glass-to-acrylic repair and it stuck so good to both it's near impossible to get off!! It would be perfect for the outer glass-to-acrylic contact patch seams and the empty void area. Stuff going on and looks like silicon, but dries much harder and less flexible (that could be a good thing or a bad thing).

As far as reef-safe - I don't know - and maybe a non-issue if I place the typical silicon bead on the inside tank seam.

Gamepro_inc · 02/16/2011, 12:56 PM

It seems to me this would be an easier build as a plywood-epoxy tank rather than a acrylic tank. Maybe im wrong.

ruiny · 03/02/2011, 02:51 PM

Do any of the 3 options with all glass.
I would do it with the glass rod as suggested.
then put on your plastic to make th outside to nicer.
I also have heard that you can have problems with the glass and plastic expanding and contracting at different rates. this would weekent he joint over time.
Anyway cool idea.
Also I wouldn't worry about cleaning it. You will be able to get a scrapper in there. Just not the big magnet cleaner.

BeanAnimal · 03/02/2011, 03:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redfishsc

A tempered glass bottom should be more than adequate for you. I'd suggest probably 5/16" thick tempered glass.

I have personally never seen a tempered glass bottom break under normal (ie, heavy) reef use. I've seen plate (non-tempered) glass split though.

I wouldn't get tempered for the sides. From my experience, tempered glass scratches easier.

Bottoms break due to poorly supported tanks. Under normal circumstances a tank bottom will not break. Also, FWIW, tempered glass does not scratch easier. It is a myth that (like most modern misinformation) is propogated daily via the internet.

smithj108 · 03/17/2011, 09:30 AM

Update:
Bottom glass panel has been ordered today

I only ordered the bottom panel for now which is obviously the triangle-shaped piece. 3/8” thick non-tempered glass was selected – although that yields this design a little lower on the safety factor than I originally wanted (about a 2.8 – if I remember). But that’s okay as I plan to pay special consideration on solid supports and a very level stand design. FWIW, I wanted to order just the bottom first as it will help me design the stand plus more accurately get the exact measurements I'll need to order the remaining three side panels.

Therefore, considering sides A B & C of a right-triangle, I settled on the dimensions of 40" x 40" for sides A & B (depth & width), which means the viewable face of the tank (side C) will end up around 56.57"(estimated) length. Height may be around 21” or less - TBD.

Also, I'm considering a design change; and that is to commit this design to strictly a corner-only tank. Mainly for reasons of overall design simplicity, thus overflow/plumbing design considerations. Also, this can help me save some $$ so I can just choose to go with only one panel (C ) being of low iron glass.

Oh, beveling the two 45° edges is indeed possible! The method is called mitering, and the glass-shop says the will be able to do it.

So to help visualize the final tank, we are talking about a tank with a viewable face that will be a little longer than a standard 55gal tank, yet designed to fit flush into a room corner. It will be interesting to own and operate a tank that is going to have two back walls and a single front face (no sides). Capacity will sit somewhere around 70-75 gallons.

02/16/2011, 12:56 PM	#27
Gamepro_inc Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Gainesville, FL Posts: 425	It seems to me this would be an easier build as a plywood-epoxy tank rather than a acrylic tank. Maybe im wrong. __________________ -Paul Current Tank Info: 65g rimless, and 34g starfire rimless Solana

03/02/2011, 02:51 PM	#28
ruiny Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Ottawa, Ontario Posts: 536	Do any of the 3 options with all glass. I would do it with the glass rod as suggested. then put on your plastic to make th outside to nicer. I also have heard that you can have problems with the glass and plastic expanding and contracting at different rates. this would weekent he joint over time. Anyway cool idea. Also I wouldn't worry about cleaning it. You will be able to get a scrapper in there. Just not the big magnet cleaner. __________________ Go Sens Go Current Tank Info: 93 mixed reef

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02/16/2011, 12:50 PM	#26
smithj108 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Tampa, FL Posts: 98	Yes, weaker adhesion to the acrylic is a major concern! I'm sure increasing the width of the contact patch on the exterior glass surface would eventually moot this concern - but to what ends? I obviously don't want two big ugly wide side brace thingys on my new tank. What about adhereing the side braces with Plumbers Goop? I've used this stuff before on a glass-to-acrylic repair and it stuck so good to both it's near impossible to get off!! It would be perfect for the outer glass-to-acrylic contact patch seams and the empty void area. Stuff going on and looks like silicon, but dries much harder and less flexible (that could be a good thing or a bad thing). As far as reef-safe - I don't know - and maybe a non-issue if I place the typical silicon bead on the inside tank seam.

03/17/2011, 09:30 AM	#30
smithj108 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Tampa, FL Posts: 98	Update: Bottom glass panel has been ordered today I only ordered the bottom panel for now which is obviously the triangle-shaped piece. 3/8” thick non-tempered glass was selected – although that yields this design a little lower on the safety factor than I originally wanted (about a 2.8 – if I remember). But that’s okay as I plan to pay special consideration on solid supports and a very level stand design. FWIW, I wanted to order just the bottom first as it will help me design the stand plus more accurately get the exact measurements I'll need to order the remaining three side panels. Therefore, considering sides A B & C of a right-triangle, I settled on the dimensions of 40" x 40" for sides A & B (depth & width), which means the viewable face of the tank (side C) will end up around 56.57"(estimated) length. Height may be around 21” or less - TBD. Also, I'm considering a design change; and that is to commit this design to strictly a corner-only tank. Mainly for reasons of overall design simplicity, thus overflow/plumbing design considerations. Also, this can help me save some $$ so I can just choose to go with only one panel (C ) being of low iron glass. Oh, beveling the two 45° edges is indeed possible! The method is called mitering, and the glass-shop says the will be able to do it. So to help visualize the final tank, we are talking about a tank with a viewable face that will be a little longer than a standard 55gal tank, yet designed to fit flush into a room corner. It will be interesting to own and operate a tank that is going to have two back walls and a single front face (no sides). Capacity will sit somewhere around 70-75 gallons.