How to raise DT level?

[GQsmooth]

My level is sitting around 1/4" below the black trim and its bugging the **** out of me.

What ways can I fix this? I am running a synergy reef external box via bean animal. Can I raise the full siphon up a bit, or would I need to increase the return pump output? It seems to be running with lots of flow at 60% at the moment so I don't think that's the issue.

[Clowning_Around]

In order to raise your DT water level you need to raise your overflows weir height.

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[johnike]

Originally Posted by Clowning_Around

In order to raise your DT water level you need to raise your overflows weir height.

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Yep.

[Clowning_Around]

Technically if you raised your full siphon high enough it would work but it would have to be above your weir and it would then turn into your skimming portion of the system, basically next to nothing skimmung wise... Just remember its all gravity based. Your DT water level is being drained by an opening into your sumps feed plumbing/overflow. So whichever component of that part of the system id's the highest tat is letting the water from your DT gravity drain is the part that establishes / dictates your DT water level.

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[Clowning_Around]

Given the box you are using and that is all governed by your bulkhead hole locations 1/2 inch to low from the sounds of it, it will be difficult to remedy. That is without unfortunately some non simple fixes. The two easiest I can think of off the top of my head would be 1)You could apply a small piece of black horiz acrylic strip blocking the lower 3/8 inch of your weir teeth. 2). Replace the rear panel of your weir box and redrill the bulkhead holes down on the rear acrylic 1/2 lower, so that it raises your whole interior box including the teeth openings, this being the better but more difficult off the two options. The first reduced your teeth openings and lowes your potential max flow capacity and increases blockage risks. A third of you are not handy/ comfortable with diy woukd be to order a new interior weir box with holes drilled stick that they are separated from the teeth 3/8-1/2inch mpre than you currently have (i don't know what spare space you currently have from the BH holes bottoming out or the yeeth topping out). Gluck

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[RWEngineer]

If you are at the low end of flow thru it you could up your flow if your setup has that availability

[mcgyvr]

Have you tried loosening the bulkheads to see if you can just move the whole box up some? Many times there is enough play in the bulkhead hole that something like that is possible..

If not you will need to add on some acrylic to raise the lip of the overflow box..

OR..(sneaky trick #1) use black electrical tape around the outside of the tank right below the trim level to cover up the gap and make it seem like the trim goes lower..

[nereefpat]

Originally Posted by mcgyvr

OR..(sneaky trick #1) use black electrical tape around the outside of the tank right below the trim level

This also works for those blinking 12:00 clocks.

[Clowning_Around]

Originally Posted by mcgyvr

Have you tried loosening the bulkheads to see if you can just move the whole box up some? Many times there is enough play in the bulkhead hole that something like that is possible..

If not you will need to add on some acrylic to raise the lip of the overflow box..

OR..(sneaky trick #1) use black electrical tape around the outside of the tank right below the trim level to cover up the gap and make it seem like the trim goes lower..

Good options too

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[miPapareef]

Mine came with 2 weir insert pieces. Take one of them and experiment first with tape then glue in a black piece of plastic to raise the bottom of the slots up.

The risk is if you have to raise too high and close the slots off too much you leave yourself less margin of error for flooding the DT.


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[GQsmooth]

Originally Posted by Clowning_Around

Given the box you are using and that is all governed by your bulkhead hole locations 1/2 inch to low from the sounds of it, it will be difficult to remedy. That is without unfortunately some non simple fixes. The two easiest I can think of off the top of my head would be 1)You could apply a small piece of black horiz acrylic strip blocking the lower 3/8 inch of your weir teeth. 2). Replace the rear panel of your weir box and redrill the bulkhead holes down on the rear acrylic 1/2 lower, so that it raises your whole interior box including the teeth openings, this being the better but more difficult off the two options. The first reduced your teeth openings and lowes your potential max flow capacity and increases blockage risks. A third of you are not handy/ comfortable with diy woukd be to order a new interior weir box with holes drilled stick that they are separated from the teeth 3/8-1/2inch mpre than you currently have (i don't know what spare space you currently have from the BH holes bottoming out or the yeeth topping out). Gluck

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The box is pretty well snug underneath the top trim, so I don't think it's in the wrong position. If only I had a rimless tank

Originally Posted by mcgyvr

Have you tried loosening the bulkheads to see if you can just move the whole box up some? Many times there is enough play in the bulkhead hole that something like that is possible..

If not you will need to add on some acrylic to raise the lip of the overflow box..

OR..(sneaky trick #1) use black electrical tape around the outside of the tank right below the trim level to cover up the gap and make it seem like the trim goes lower..

It won't move anymore, how can one raise the overflow box if it's specifically drilled for a set height? It's pretty much directly under the top bracing.

Also the weir is magnetic and I assume only fits in 1 position, I guess I could try to put something underneath to raise it up.

Black electrical tape will look unsightly IMO.

[Clowning_Around]

Originally Posted by GQsmooth

The box is pretty well snug underneath the top trim, so I don't think it's in the wrong position. If only I had a rimless tank

It won't move anymore, how can one raise the overflow box if it's specifically drilled for a set height? It's pretty much directly under the top bracing.

Also the weir is magnetic and I assume only fits in 1 position, I guess I could try to put something underneath to raise it up.

I'm not familar with the magnetic aspect, got a pic?

Generally the plastic top trim profileis sort of an 'L' shape. With the outer faces being the long leg turned down leaving room thought up underneathfor rudest overflow devices. And buffer space to hidethe water line. If your box is toght to the underside then it sounds like the teeth holes themselves are to low in the box.

Regarding your question of how does one adjust a unit alreadu drilled for a set height, you dont really with some exceptions like those listed above, unless your talking a total relocation or some sort of patching. Most dont get predrilled unless specified or checked against constraints to avoid just what you have run into (unfortunately). Many get solid blanks and drill when or with the bulkhead drilling. However if yours is as snug a you say it is to the trim, And given you bought s branded unit, I would touch base with the manf and discuss the offsite seeking there resolution and assistance. Surely if its as you described Ihttps booty the ditsy they will heave had to deal with this question by there customers.


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[mcgyvr]

Originally Posted by miPapareef

Take one of them and experiment first with tape then glue in a black piece of plastic to raise the bottom of the slots up.

This is easy..
Crude image to go along with it..
You add/glue the strip (shown in blue) to raise the bottom of the "teeth openings"

[Clowning_Around]

Originally Posted by mcgyvr

This is easy..
Crude image to go along with it..
You add/glue the strip (shown in blue) to raise the bottom of the "teeth openings"

Exactly. This is a quick and easy way to test whats been said. If your unit was predetermined by the manf height wise you can show them a photo with the temporary tape in place amd without and then ask for there assistance with a resolution. It maybe that your unit was built with teeth to low to begin with.

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[ca1ore]

Yes, you just have to partially block the openings in the skimmer box. Deep Blue, for example, have an adjustable back weir that allows you to raise the water level. Keep in mind that these 'blocks' are not likely to be watertight, so you have to be sure that your sump can handle the extra water.

[GQsmooth]

Originally Posted by mcgyvr

This is easy..
Crude image to go along with it..
You add/glue the strip (shown in blue) to raise the bottom of the "teeth openings"

Nice, now where do I get that piece!

[Clowning_Around]

Originally Posted by GQsmooth

Nice, now where do I get that piece!

Well test with tape first amd if you like it you can order black acrylic online from various vendors even amazon has some. Ebay is another option...

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[GQsmooth]

Originally Posted by Clowning_Around

Well test with tape first amd if you like it you can order black acrylic online from various vendors even amazon has some. Ebay is another option...

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Thanks, I contacted my aquarium manufacturer and am going to get him to cut me one to size. I will test with tape first, I'm wondering if silicone tape would work better?

[Clowning_Around]

Really any number of tapes will do for a quick test. Just dry it first. Electrical tape, scotch tape, packing tape, masking tape, painters tape, etc i'd avoid the ones that will leave a residue to cleanup like ducttape. Then the system should balance in a few moments and yoill have yoie answer

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