Water storage containers - Page 2

Ihuntbugs · 03/13/2017, 11:27 PM

I use 2 x 30 gallon food grade barrels I got from a wine processor. 30$ piece. Did not get wine with it.

choss · 03/14/2017, 05:23 PM

Ok so here is what I went with. I just finished the stand as well. To give soe context, this is a 35 gallon tank. It will be fed directly by my RODI with a float valve inside the container. I will use my Tunze 3155 inside this container to feed the sump in my fish room which is directly above this container. It is about 6 ft and Tunze claims 7 ft height will work. That is why the stand is so tall. Directly below this tank I will add a shelf and it will hold a 20 gallon frag tank. I plan on feeding this tank from the 35 gallon storage tank via a 1/4" hose to a float valve. So one question I have is what is the best way to conect the 1/4" hose to the storage tank? Is there a simple bulkhead I can buy for this size tubing? Also, anyone have experience running 1/4" tubing through a wall or ceiling? I'm trying to minimize the damage to the floors above.

choss · 03/14/2017, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ihuntbugs

I use 2 x 30 gallon food grade barrels I got from a wine processor. 30$ piece. Did not get wine with it.

Sounds delicious! You have a picture of said wine barrel?

Michael Hoaster · 03/14/2017, 05:33 PM

Spectrapure's float valves come with all the connection hardware.

vanburen · 03/15/2017, 09:42 PM

I would try and go through the floor into the wall above so you are not hurting the upstairs floor. Use a long drill bit Do you have reference points so you know where things are?

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Zalick · 03/15/2017, 10:32 PM

I run 1/4 under my floor and up a wall. Don't drill through floor if you don't have to. Dry-wall is easier to repair later.

Also, you shouldn't have your RODI hooked up to the tank with a float valve to be constantaly refilled small amounts. The RODI unit does not perform as well and you will get higher TDS due to TDS creep through the RO membrane. At least thats what I've read from the experts and I believe from Spectrapure. I have mine setup with a float valve and an inline valve. I fill it once every few weeks. Open the inline valve Saturday morning. Check back Sunday when its full and turn off.

yellojello · 03/15/2017, 11:46 PM

I do the same. Except I have a float switch with solenoid switch in addition to gravity fed float valve as a backup.

choss · 03/16/2017, 06:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vanburen

I would try and go through the floor into the wall above so you are not hurting the upstairs floor. Use a long drill bit Do you have reference points so you know where things are?

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I do have a reference point that is pretty accurate. Yes, I was hoping I could go up through the walls (v. drilling through the floor) but have never done this and was worried about a header or beam being in the way. The wall I want to use is the end wall where the joists end. so x representing where I would like to go through. The line being the wall. the "I" being the joists.

_________________________________
I I I I x I I

choss · 03/16/2017, 06:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zalick

I run 1/4 under my floor and up a wall. Don't drill through floor if you don't have to. Dry-wall is easier to repair later.

Also, you shouldn't have your RODI hooked up to the tank with a float valve to be constantaly refilled small amounts. The RODI unit does not perform as well and you will get higher TDS due to TDS creep through the RO membrane. At least thats what I've read from the experts and I believe from Spectrapure. I have mine setup with a float valve and an inline valve. I fill it once every few weeks. Open the inline valve Saturday morning. Check back Sunday when its full and turn off.

sorry - i didn't explain it properly. The RODI will fill this tank - I will either do it manually once a week or hook up a solenoid switch on a timer. Looking at some options on Amazon. My Tunze 3155 pump will sit in the container and pump the water from a float switch in the sump directly above. It should work with a head of around 5-6 feet. I will test the pump. So I need to run the 1/4" hose and electrical up through the wall. I will also run a litermeter 3 pump for AWC. That storage system is coming (more pics soon). I decided to stick with the Tunze because it is just so reliable. I run it today for my 40.

So the storage tank will serve 3 purposes:

* RODI water refill for the 96 gallon reef savvy tank in the room above (coming soon!)
* refill for the 20 gallon frag tank in the fish room (shelf just below the 35 gallon tank. will be fed by gravity and float valve)
* salt water refill - will feed the refill tank by gravity via ball valve.

vanburen · 03/16/2017, 06:40 AM

You'll end up drilling through the subfloor, whatever's on top of the subfloor, the bottom of the wall and end up inside the space in the wall. Then a simple hole in the drywall should let you get your line out. If you use a half inch drill bit you're not going to hurt any of the structural members.and if you have access from between the joists, you're probably not going to see more than one or maybe two 2 x 4's that you have to drill through. But the drill that will need to be long enough to get through the floor and the two by fours. I'd also be careful you don't accidentally interact with any electrical wires.

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Vinny Kreyling · 03/16/2017, 08:27 AM

Your Litremeter can also be used for top off with another satellite pump.
They can handle three.

choss · 03/17/2017, 05:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yellojello

I do the same. Except I have a float switch with solenoid switch in addition to gravity fed float valve as a backup.

Which solenoid are you running?

yellojello · 03/17/2017, 12:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by choss

Which solenoid are you running?

My pre-built one was the level-loc for gravity ATO, but it's been discontinued a long time ago. But there are a bunch of float switches and pressure switches available in the market now.

As far as solenoid valves, I bought some STC valves to implement right after my DI chamber so I can stop and force the end cycle flush. They look to be of very good quality, I'm just waiting to get my 12v wall wort to install it. Before, I had my RODI Puratek and just turned off the power to stop it, but then it wouldn't do the end of cycle flush.

shaginwagon13 · 03/13/2018, 08:58 PM

Anyone have any idea where to buy a 130-150 gallon water tote up in Canada??

Looking for some options, the only place I could find wanted $600 for one 130 gallon vertical storage container and that’s not happening.

rocsec1 · 03/18/2018, 06:38 AM

I got my barrels from a local brew pub. Don’t remember what had been in the but a good cleaning and they work great.

03/14/2017, 05:23 PM	#27
choss Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Scarsdale NY Posts: 526	Ok so here is what I went with. I just finished the stand as well. To give soe context, this is a 35 gallon tank. It will be fed directly by my RODI with a float valve inside the container. I will use my Tunze 3155 inside this container to feed the sump in my fish room which is directly above this container. It is about 6 ft and Tunze claims 7 ft height will work. That is why the stand is so tall. Directly below this tank I will add a shelf and it will hold a 20 gallon frag tank. I plan on feeding this tank from the 35 gallon storage tank via a 1/4" hose to a float valve. So one question I have is what is the best way to conect the 1/4" hose to the storage tank? Is there a simple bulkhead I can buy for this size tubing? Also, anyone have experience running 1/4" tubing through a wall or ceiling? I'm trying to minimize the damage to the floors above. __________________ ________ Reef Savvy 96 Gallon Rimless Tank - http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2643140 Current Tank Info: Reef Savvy 96

03/14/2017, 05:33 PM	#29
Michael Hoaster Registered Seaweedist Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Boulder, CO Posts: 5,807	Spectrapure's float valves come with all the connection hardware. __________________ As many naturalists and environmentalists have suggested, we should set aside our arrogance, our desire to conquer and control everything, and walk hand in hand with Mother Nature. -Walter Adey Current Tank Info: 180g Seagrass Sandbar Lagoon, START DATE November 28, 2018

03/15/2017, 10:32 PM	#31
Zalick My reef tanks my wallet Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Portland Posts: 571	I run 1/4 under my floor and up a wall. Don't drill through floor if you don't have to. Dry-wall is easier to repair later. Also, you shouldn't have your RODI hooked up to the tank with a float valve to be constantaly refilled small amounts. The RODI unit does not perform as well and you will get higher TDS due to TDS creep through the RO membrane. At least thats what I've read from the experts and I believe from Spectrapure. I have mine setup with a float valve and an inline valve. I fill it once every few weeks. Open the inline valve Saturday morning. Check back Sunday when its full and turn off. __________________ 300g custom acrylic from James 72x36x27, 4 Mitras Lx7 &6 a360, 2 Stream 3s, C2C beananimal. 100g sump, Jebao DCP- 8000 (Vectra M1 died) -> 114w aquauv -> SRO 5000ext , varios8 return Current Tank Info: Me v Dinos - I'm winning for now...

03/16/2017, 08:27 AM	#36
Vinny Kreyling Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Miller Place, NY Posts: 7,206	Your Litremeter can also be used for top off with another satellite pump. They can handle three. __________________ 250 gallon mixed reef, 2 Reefbreeder's Photon V 2, Deepwater BLDC 12, DAS EX-3 Skimmer, MTC mini cal, 2-3/4" Sea Swirls, Aquacontroller & 6 Tunze pumps.

03/13/2018, 08:58 PM	#39
shaginwagon13 Chartered Accountant Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Toronto, Canada Posts: 2,219	Anyone have any idea where to buy a 130-150 gallon water tote up in Canada?? Looking for some options, the only place I could find wanted $600 for one 130 gallon vertical storage container and that’s not happening. __________________ - Shaginwagon - Current Tank Info: 550 Gallon SPS Reef l 200 Gallon Sump l Skimmer: Vertex Alpha 250 l Return Pump: Reeflo Hammerhead l Tank Circulation: (2) Maxspect Gyre XF280 l Lighting: (3) 400w Halides & (3) AI Hydra 52 HD

03/13/2017, 11:27 PM	#26
Ihuntbugs Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: Monterey bay Posts: 94	I use 2 x 30 gallon food grade barrels I got from a wine processor. 30$ piece. Did not get wine with it.

03/15/2017, 09:42 PM	#30
vanburen Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Alexandria, VA Posts: 372	I would try and go through the floor into the wall above so you are not hurting the upstairs floor. Use a long drill bit Do you have reference points so you know where things are? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

03/15/2017, 11:46 PM	#32
yellojello Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 176	I do the same. Except I have a float switch with solenoid switch in addition to gravity fed float valve as a backup.

03/16/2017, 06:40 AM	#35
vanburen Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Alexandria, VA Posts: 372	You'll end up drilling through the subfloor, whatever's on top of the subfloor, the bottom of the wall and end up inside the space in the wall. Then a simple hole in the drywall should let you get your line out. If you use a half inch drill bit you're not going to hurt any of the structural members.and if you have access from between the joists, you're probably not going to see more than one or maybe two 2 x 4's that you have to drill through. But the drill that will need to be long enough to get through the floor and the two by fours. I'd also be careful you don't accidentally interact with any electrical wires. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

03/18/2018, 06:38 AM	#40
rocsec1 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Medina oh Posts: 1,782	I got my barrels from a local brew pub. Don’t remember what had been in the but a good cleaning and they work great.