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Unread 03/28/2009, 05:02 PM   #551
eameres
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lynxvs, are you planning on selling kits? any idea on prices?


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Unread 03/28/2009, 07:00 PM   #552
lynxvs
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Quote:
Originally posted by eameres
lynxvs, are you planning on selling kits? any idea on prices?
Not at the moment I just couldn't get the cost down to where I thought people would buy. The parts alone cost about $700.00 for the light shown. Your post is in violation of the terms and conditions of use of this web site and has been edited. Further violations will result in revocation of your posting privileges.



Last edited by geo; 05/07/2009 at 08:07 PM.
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Unread 03/29/2009, 09:53 AM   #553
marspeed
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For the non PCB types like my self if some one could provide a PCB layout for the stcs 1 and that lets say had 10 chips witch could be populated with as few or as many chips as you need in a file format that works with one of the free online software packages that would be grate because mistakes could be made while trying to learn and design at the same time especially when there are so many experts in this forum that have the expertise to do it right . a PSOC micro controller board would be nice to.


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Unread 03/29/2009, 10:40 AM   #554
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I would love either a pre-fabed PCB or a design file. I really like the idea of those drivers and would be willing to try my hand at soldering.


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Unread 03/29/2009, 12:27 PM   #555
eameres
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Quote:
Originally posted by ejmitch
I would love either a pre-fabed PCB or a design file. I really like the idea of those drivers and would be willing to try my hand at soldering.
Same here.


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Unread 03/29/2009, 01:58 PM   #556
lilmonster
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I've been following along since i found your thread, and i can't wait to make one.

but i think my tank knows i'm reading this because today the lights are not wanting to start.


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Unread 03/29/2009, 02:28 PM   #557
ReefEnabler
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Would 18 gauge wire be big enough for 6 stars (30v @ 700ma) ? I tried to get 16 gauge at radio shack but they had 18 and 10... 10 looked a bit too fat for my endor tri emitters.


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Current Tank Info: 220g Display, 70g sump, 35g frag, 50g fuge, 2x250w MH, 1x400w MH, 2x80w T5, 2x140w VHO Actinic
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Unread 03/29/2009, 08:06 PM   #558
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Can't you just get it from Home Depot in a three wire bulk reel, then strip it out of the insultation? Or go buy a 7 dollar extension cord and get the wire that way? Just a thought. But I don't know if 18 will work. 1 amp with 24 volts seems like easy labor for an 18 gauge but I'm not an electrician, so don't quote me on that.

Aaron


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Unread 03/29/2009, 08:30 PM   #559
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Ryan, the wire table rates 18g is rated at 16amp max & a resistance of 1 ohm/156ft. So for a .7 amp draw the voltage drop would be only 50 millivolts/10 feet. (16 gauge would have a 31millivolt/10 feet.) Therefore no problem.


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Unread 03/29/2009, 09:42 PM   #560
kcress
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I would use something smaller than 18... You can get into stress hassles. I'd use 20 or 22.


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Unread 03/30/2009, 12:39 AM   #561
TheNomadRhodes
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Wow that is awesome!!
If I was a tech savy guy like yall I'd try this but i'm scared I would fry 600 bucks worth of stuff


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Unread 03/30/2009, 03:57 AM   #562
tahiriqbal
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Right Guys, something for you ...

Stu your LEDs are on its way.......one with 10k and one with 25k

My 15000k



My 20000k



My 25000k


Now all these are 3 watt LEDs

Enjoy


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Last edited by tahiriqbal; 03/30/2009 at 04:12 AM.
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Unread 03/30/2009, 08:22 AM   #563
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Wait a minute, did you send those to stu or me?


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Unread 03/30/2009, 11:13 AM   #564
stugray
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Soundwave,

I believe he sent them to me because I was the 'unbeliever'.

PM me your address & once I get a look at them I will forward them to you.

Stu


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Current Tank Info: 125 Gal. display w/80 gal mud/caulerpa sump. Basement sump w/ LED Grow Light,Gravity fed Reeflo200 skimmer w/ ORCA Recirc, DIY calc reactor & kalk stirrer. Inline plumbed 75 Gal frag/settling tank.
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Unread 03/30/2009, 11:29 AM   #565
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I just found a good deal on the Cree XR-E Q5: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2394

Just bought me 28.


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Unread 03/30/2009, 12:14 PM   #566
Soundwave
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And you'll get them in a month...


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Unread 03/30/2009, 12:45 PM   #567
fernandokng
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I hope its earlier than that! ;-)

Soundwave,

How come you drove your blues at 700ma and your whites at 1000ma... why not both at 1000ma?

Wouldn't that make the blues brighter, and more preferrable?

thx


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Unread 03/30/2009, 01:37 PM   #568
foom_Baggins
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Soundwave and all,

Thanks to all the great info and discussion around this project, I have decided to go and order the parts necessary to do my own. I'm going to build this into my Coralife Aqualight Pro fixture.

I'm going to take out the 150W MH from the middle , and see if I can mount the LED arrays and heatsinks on the sections on either side.

I've ordered all Cool White LEDs, since I can continue to use the PC actinic bulbs.

I've also ordered the dimmable buckpucks, and I'm going to see if I can't get this all to work with DA's ALC module for the Reef Keeper Elite.

I'll take lots of pictures and document the build, so I can post a thread when the time comes.

Thanks again!


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Unread 03/30/2009, 02:06 PM   #569
stugray
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For everyone that is going to attempt one of these builds.

Try to NOT drive the LEDs at their full rated current.

You WILL:

1 - Severely shorten their life.
2 - NEED to have a nearly perfect heat sink or they burn out
3 - Even if they live 1/2 of the rated 50,000 hours, you will have major degradation of the Lumen output.
4 - Greatly increase the chance of burning one out & lose ( or destroy ) a whole string, depending on your setup

So for the 3W LEDs that are rated at 1000mA ( 1 Amp ), I would suggest not driving them at more than 750mA ( 0.75 Amp ).


Also - just dont try to drive any strings in parallel with others.
It is possible, but the electronics/fuses required to protect the LEDs are not worth the cost of more drivers.

Remember - people complain about the cost of one buckpuck, but consider the cost of a whole string of LEDs WHEN you burn them all out.

Stu


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Some people think that I have Attention Deficit Disorder. They just dont understand that........ Hey! Look a chicken!

Well, We KNOW GOD exists, but for US to exist without a GOD is preposterous….Umm wait a minute…. Sounds a bit circular to me…

Current Tank Info: 125 Gal. display w/80 gal mud/caulerpa sump. Basement sump w/ LED Grow Light,Gravity fed Reeflo200 skimmer w/ ORCA Recirc, DIY calc reactor & kalk stirrer. Inline plumbed 75 Gal frag/settling tank.
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Unread 03/30/2009, 02:26 PM   #570
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Stu thanks for posting that reminder.

Most of my LEDs are 1000ma rated and I'm using 700ma pucks.

But I was planning to mix a Cyan LED in one of the arrays, its rated at 700ma max.

Could I just position it at the end of a series and put a resister before it to step it down?


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Current Tank Info: 220g Display, 70g sump, 35g frag, 50g fuge, 2x250w MH, 1x400w MH, 2x80w T5, 2x140w VHO Actinic
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Unread 03/30/2009, 03:35 PM   #571
FireZeMissiles
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Im a newb, and i have a question. How many of those cree white and blue leds do i need for a 30 gallon reef tank?

Thanks in advance.


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Unread 03/30/2009, 03:49 PM   #572
PhLipStyLz
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wow! a ton of useful info here... soundwave, thank you soooo much for posting this! i plan on using just a quarter of your setup in addition to my elos e-lite (shown below). since the e-lite doesn't have seperate power chords or a controller to independently control the blues and whites, i want to add 6 royal blue XR-E Crees for an actinic sunrise/sunset effect.

now, i need some criticism on how i plan on doing this...
elos says that the fixture acts as the heat sink for the 18 stock CREE leds and current owners have no complaints with heat (it is a solid block of aluminum). so... what i want to do is thermal epoxy 6 star PCB boards to the e-lite fixture

the fixture sits about 4 inches from the water surface. would this be a major issue having the led boards exposed that close to the water surface? do you think it would be best to use optics (just so the leds are covered)? the tank it self is only 17"x17" so having 6 LEDs spread out, i may be able to avoid "dead spots".

if you guys have any other thoughts to incorporate some blue leds with the fixture i have already, it would be much appreciated!

thanks in advanced,
philip



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Unread 03/30/2009, 04:23 PM   #573
james3370
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stu or soundwave.......

ok, i'm about to order the 350mA dimable w/ pot buckpuck for my 1watt blue moonlights from ledsupply.com & i just happened to glance at the auctions where i bought my LEDs on ebay & saw something i need clarification on.....

HERE are the 3watt white LEDs i purchased. i know they are not true luxeons but i am just using them to add "shimmer" to the tank & not for coral growth, so that doesn't concern me.

what peaked my curiosity is the part in the specs where it lists the
DC Forward Current (IF): Typ 650mA ....the buckpuck i purchased is 700mA.

there will be (5) of them running on a 20V-1A Wall Wart

while i'm buying the dimable buckpuck for the 1 watt LEDs, should i buy a 500mA buckpuck to use on the 3 watt instead of the 700mA one i have ??

thanks again
James


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Unread 03/30/2009, 04:31 PM   #574
stugray
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james3370,

"Typ 650mA ....the buckpuck i purchased is 700mA"

As I mentioned in the PM:

"The ebay page says typical current is 650mA.
Without the datasheet, I cant say if 700mA is OK."

So it WOULD be better to get a lower current buckpuck, but you can hook it up long enough to see what the REAL current is & see if you are OK. ( quickly with a DMM ).

The Pucks appear to be driving a little lower than their rating according to the discussion way early on of Soundwaves implementation.

Stu


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Some people think that I have Attention Deficit Disorder. They just dont understand that........ Hey! Look a chicken!

Well, We KNOW GOD exists, but for US to exist without a GOD is preposterous….Umm wait a minute…. Sounds a bit circular to me…

Current Tank Info: 125 Gal. display w/80 gal mud/caulerpa sump. Basement sump w/ LED Grow Light,Gravity fed Reeflo200 skimmer w/ ORCA Recirc, DIY calc reactor & kalk stirrer. Inline plumbed 75 Gal frag/settling tank.
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Unread 03/30/2009, 05:29 PM   #575
james3370
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Quote:
Originally posted by stugray
So it WOULD be better to get a lower current buckpuck, but you can hook it up long enough to see what the REAL current is & see if you are OK. ( quickly with a DMM ).
yeah, that's what i was thinking. since they are just for a shimmer effect, i'd rather drive them a bit less on a 500mA puck than take the risk of using the 700mA puck & end up frying all 5 of them

anbody need a 350mA & 700mA puck?? LOL


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Yes I hear voices in my head, but they speak spanish
so I can't understand anything they say.

there's no place like 127.0.0.1

It's a shame that stupidity isn't painful....

Current Tank Info: currently tankless....but planning an AIO
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