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04/09/2009, 10:29 AM | #676 |
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the luxeons only give mW for their royal blues because for some reason lumens dont mean much with such a blue light... I am curious about the correct way to "equate" the two as well....
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- Ryan B "that is enough skimmate to ruin lives." - GSMguy Current Tank Info: 220g Display, 70g sump, 35g frag, 50g fuge, 2x250w MH, 1x400w MH, 2x80w T5, 2x140w VHO Actinic |
04/09/2009, 10:32 AM | #677 |
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Random thoughts:
I'd recommend springing for dimmable controllers. I have the AquaIllumination fixtures and like them. But I had to turn down the whites to 65% and have the blues at 98%. (was getting bleaching with higher light) I wish they were 1:1 blue:white instead of 1:2. Blue makes things look cool in my opinion! brings out lots of color. I'd think those single dies with a bunch of LEDs packed in them would have the disadvantage of more heat in one location (I haven't read if that's true!). Individual LEDs which are more widely spaced out may give more coverage, making sure your whole tank is lit. Unless there's some kind of parabolic reflector or something I haven't considered. |
04/09/2009, 10:57 AM | #678 |
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zachtos, you were working on a tri-star where you had 3 x the led's as the solaris? would by tripling the LED's in the same space as solaris mean necessarily more PAR?
Or would it be better to make the optics more closer focused on the edge of the led array, adn the leds near the center to be widely focused?? If you picture what I am imagining its a way to make the PAR more consistent and increasing it by making some areas more tighter. |
04/09/2009, 11:00 AM | #679 |
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is there a certain PAR # i am aiming for if I want maximum growth on SPS? And is there a PAR you hit where your coral start bleaching? I know this depends on distance and depth, etc. But I am referring to making a unit the same size as solaris / AI that would provide more power that SPS needs.
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04/09/2009, 11:13 AM | #680 |
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MY pink birdsnest SPS and hammer coral and coralline algae bleach above 60% on the AI fixture. I series solaris owners also mention turning down the output. I don't know if any feel they need MORE power, but I'm not a coral or LED expert....
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04/09/2009, 11:27 AM | #681 |
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I thought the problem that made LED's a more difficult choice than MH was due to the most intense requirements for light set by the SPS.
Since you mention turning down AI and solaris, that means that the PAR was too great at the distance/depth. The only reason you'd need more power was if you had a deeper depth that the light needed to penetrate. So if I made a Solaris with 3 rebel LED's in each star instead of their 1 LED, then I could have a much deeper tank that would work fine and look good (say for a bigger custom wall enclosure where the depth is large). What is the deepest depth aquarium that has been powered with all LED's like the solaris? |
04/09/2009, 11:30 AM | #682 |
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Ahh, of course. I wasn't thinking about depth...
But individually dimmable zones would be nice. Maybe you have tall rocks in the back that only need lower light for shallower coral, while the strip in the front could be on 'high' to blast the deep ones. I have 2 controllers on my AI system, so 7 modules go at 65% white and one at 90%, trying to make a yellow fiji leather open like it did in the old days when I have the whole tank at 90% |
04/09/2009, 11:47 AM | #683 | |
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Quote:
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04/09/2009, 11:58 AM | #684 |
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I have 2 controllers. One for each set
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04/09/2009, 12:21 PM | #685 |
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Well you said:
But individually dimmable zones would be nice. Maybe you have tall rocks in the back that only need lower light for shallower coral, while the strip in the front could be on 'high' to blast the deep ones. I don't get it - does your AI have this ability to individually dim zones? |
04/09/2009, 12:23 PM | #686 |
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only because I bought 2 controllers. One for each zone. I put 7 modules in one and one by itself in the other zone.
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04/09/2009, 12:30 PM | #687 |
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Im looking at the Aqua Illuminations I just ordered and its got 2 power holes and 2 data holes. So basically you can hook up to 2 controllers into each AI unit right? And I suppose to make it 7:1 you had to manually rewire something correct?
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04/09/2009, 03:00 PM | #688 |
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I'm designing a system using 3 rebels on the endor star
LXML-PWC1-0100 LXML-PR01-0275 LXML-PB01-0023 Getting these all from the Future Electronics site. Then soldering them onto this blank star http://www.luxeonstar.com/rebel-star...20mm-p-444.php I am also looking for a 45 degree lenses for the endor star. Here is a 25 degree one I found . http://www.luxeonstar.com/endor-star...leds-p-391.php Could you guys direct me to link for the correct 45 degree lenses, and let me know if my Pcb is correct, as well as any other comments on the LED choices would be helpful. |
04/09/2009, 03:38 PM | #689 | |
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Quote:
Where: V(ë) = the "luminous efficiency," and is a function of the wavelength of light. Km = 683 lm/W, the maximum sensitivity for photopic vision, which occurs at 555nm. Basically the luminous efficiency tells us how efficiently the eye picks up certain wavelengths of light. Example Of Conversion: Let's say you have a Royal Blue LED with a peak wavelength of 455nm and a power output (Radiometric power) of 525mw. What is the conversion to lumens? At 455nm, V(ë) = 0.038 lm/watt. Therefore: Lumens = 0.525 watts x 683 lm/watt x 0.038 = 13.62 lumens The conversion technique described above is only true for monochromatic (single wavelength) light sources. Most LEDs are monochromatic light sources with the exception of White LEDs or LEDs with phosphors added on top of the die. luminous efficiency table (nm) V(ë) (nm) V(ë) 380 0.00004 580 0.870 390 0.00012 590 0.757 400 0.0004 600 0.361 410 0.0012 610 0.503 420 0.0040 620 0.381 430 0.0116 630 0.265 440 0.023 640 0.175 450 0.038 650 0.107 460 0.060 660 0.061 470 0.091 670 0.032 480 0.139 680 0.017 490 0.208 690 0.0082 500 0.323 700 0.0041 510 0.503 710 0.0021 520 0.710 720 0.00105 530 0.862 730 0.00052 540 0.954 740 0.00025 550 0.995 750 0.00012 560 0.995 770 0.00003 |
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04/09/2009, 03:40 PM | #690 | |
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Quote:
sorry, had a Star Wars flashback there. |
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04/09/2009, 03:41 PM | #691 | |
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Quote:
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04/09/2009, 04:00 PM | #692 |
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you daisy chain them
ctrl---light---light---light---lightx7 ctrl---light |
04/09/2009, 05:31 PM | #693 |
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lynxvs thank you very much for clearing that up. I came across a website that had something to that effect but I wasn't able to commit the effort to interpret it.
So basically, it appears the motivation for listing the Royal blue LEDs in terms of mW is because a "lumen" of blue light is not very comparable to a lumen of orange light. Thus, they list the mW because otherwise the blue LEDs would appear to produce only a small fraction of the light that an orange led does. In other words, these LEDs http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.11015 which produce 14 - 19 lumens of blue will probably be as bright as the rebels, correct? |
04/09/2009, 06:13 PM | #694 |
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Not sure I don't see a data sheet for them.
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04/09/2009, 06:31 PM | #695 |
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Thanks for clarifying the mW to Lumens conversion... I wasn't able to find a clean explanation either.
So that explains why a royal blue LED could have so little Lumen output while still having decent PAR.
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- Ryan B "that is enough skimmate to ruin lives." - GSMguy Current Tank Info: 220g Display, 70g sump, 35g frag, 50g fuge, 2x250w MH, 1x400w MH, 2x80w T5, 2x140w VHO Actinic |
04/09/2009, 08:07 PM | #696 |
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I can't recall if a endor tri-star 45deg lens exists, that was off the top of my head. They may only have a 25degree, which is fine. If you look at the spec. sheets for all the optics, they all have a paramater that tells how much they will increase the lumens in the optic. There are diminishing returns at a certain degree size, i think 25 degrees was the best all around for coverage vs. increase in lumens. (gotta study the sheets of any new lenses first to verify)
PC power supplys, w/ the 12V rail in series x 3 =36 volts, that's how I would power a large array (similar to my luxeon array but w/ 12V + 24Vdc supplies to make 36Vdc). LEDs still do not have a good LED that makes 420nm, royal blue is the closest at 460-440nm, and blue is like 470 i believe. The PAR of actinics is low for all bulb types, not just LEDs. If you stack more light sources on top of eachother, their intensity will add together. The more LEDs I clustered together in my design, the higher the PAR would read. So yes, more is better, but only if they each have an optic. Some corals love high PAR. I would think that you could go over 1000 PAR easily since sunlight outdoors gets that high or greater. You wont hit that limit w/ LED for a few more years I think. Some corals will bleach if you change the light intensity too fast on them. All you have to do is have a dimming effect and turn the light up slowly each day. Or do the old school way, and lift the coral closer up to the light slowly each day... or screens over the light.
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04/09/2009, 09:58 PM | #697 |
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Finally got my supplies.
Well, I took the dive and finally got my supplies.
I am putting this over a 10 gallon tank, thus I only got 6 LEDs. I got three white and three of the royal blues. They were packaged very well I thought. As an aside, I will be using the Xitanium 17W Advance ballast with the power cord that can plug directly in the wall. Also, I plan to mount the stars to the heat sink with JB weld 2 part epoxy. I figure that should hold the stars on the aluminum better than anything else I could figure. I was going to drill and tap holes to mount the stars with screws, but man they are small, and I can't see how you could use a screw big enough to hold the star in place without it hitting the contact points. So I figured I would just epoxy them in place like soundwave did. I am sort of confused at how small the wires on the Xitanium ballast that feed this array are. They are much smaller gauge than what soundwave was using to run his array. I suppose after all is said and done, it's only 17 watts that will be coursing through it, but still, they are really small! I'm sorry, my wife has the camera with the kids this weekend, so I can't get any pictures of the assembly, and darn it all, I can't wait to put this thing together. What do you guys think about using the JB weld to mount the stars? (Please keep in mind that I am in the middle of Wyoming, and the closest thing to an electronics store would be isle 8 of walmart.)
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04/09/2009, 10:01 PM | #698 |
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Soundwave,
You should write an article for RK outlining your build and consolidating all your findings.
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04/09/2009, 10:56 PM | #699 |
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I would like to write an article. That's not a bad idea.
I'm still watching the tank to see how it fares. The lights are still going strong and the growth is obviously better than when the PCs were the light source. I am frustrated with the newly developed diatom bloom due to moving everything in the tank and restacking all the rock. Hopefully, I can provide pictures of the tank soon without any brown on the rocks. It's slowly going away and the brown is being replaced by coralline already. Good times. How would I go about submitting an article I wonder? |
04/09/2009, 11:01 PM | #700 | |
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Quote:
To condense lynxvs nice compendium on lumens conversion: Lumen is a number derived by studying human perception of white light and so pure colors don't have any comparative perceived value so they revert to mW. This was even brought to my attention earlier this week. I'm experimenting with a turf scrubber using CFL verses a mixture of red and blue LEDs. (see my pictures way up above) Someone asked me, "Is you new LED panel brighter than the three CFLs you were using?" I was at a loss to even answer because my human eyes don't know how to judge brightness across large color changes. I think it's much brighter but I'm not really sure. |
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