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Unread 01/30/2021, 10:14 PM   #1
BarIzoN
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Basement sump - ideas for stand and general installation

Hello!

Here's my thing:

Basement immediately below the tank: area for sump with 13ft head, straight. I'm in between 2 windows.

No drains/water/electricity.

Opposite side of basement:
Electricity/water and drains.


Currently I have a 55G (yes, from petco) and a fluval G3 filter.

I'm tired of cleaning the filter - and all these crashes that happens due to the nitrate accumulation.

Talked to wife and she agreed with the sump on basement.


Now, here's my initial question:

What's your suggestion on the sump location? Down the tank, or far, but closer to a drain?

For closer, I do have a pan world 100. I'm assuming this pump will not be enough.

I do have 2 brute cans for saltwater mixing, and I believe the best location is closer to the water source.

As you may noticed, my tank isn't drilled. I bought an external overflow box, which will be temporary, since I'm planning to a tank upgrade.

Also, what would be the best plumbing material? I watched a video today and they were using a flexible tube, which I really liked.

Also, I need to build the sump stand. I may get started tomorrow. I'll use the template from this section in the forum.

No matter where I put the pump, I'll have to drill the tank and have the pump on the stand. What to do with the pump's vibration? I saw a rubber pad at Amazon, does anyone use that? I'm planning on an external pump.

Anyway, I know I still have a lot of questions, but I'll end here for now.

Thanks and let's start the year in a good way!

My tank is above the sump.


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Unread 01/31/2021, 06:30 AM   #2
caribfan
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Hey man,

Couple questions.

How far away is the opposite side of the basement?

Do you have any electrical / plumbing ability? You could pretty easily wire a new outlet or two right below your tank for the sump.

I like PVC for drains, but if you're not comfortable with plumbing that correctly, (getting right slop on horizontal runs, etc) maybe not an option for you.

Have you thought about how you'll deal with the siphoning effect?


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Unread 01/31/2021, 10:07 AM   #3
Vinny Kreyling
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That pump will do just fine, just put a valve on the exit in case. A silicone pad used for putting anything hot on a table should be fine. Put sump up on a bench - reduces head pressure & makes working on it easier.
If the floor is smooth you can put 1 of the brute cans on wheels made especially for brute.
Use flex for now, pvc when you get the new tank.


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Unread 01/31/2021, 09:57 PM   #4
BarIzoN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caribfan View Post
Hey man,

Couple questions.

How far away is the opposite side of the basement?

Do you have any electrical / plumbing ability? You could pretty easily wire a new outlet or two right below your tank for the sump.

I like PVC for drains, but if you're not comfortable with plumbing that correctly, (getting right slop on horizontal runs, etc) maybe not an option for you.

Have you thought about how you'll deal with the siphoning effect?

All right:

I have 30 ft distance from wall to wall.

Yes, I do know how to do plumbing and electrical.

For the electrical side, I was thinking to have a power cord extension for the return pump, heater and the power head on the brute for the mixing station. On the other side, I do have outlets exclusive for the fish tank.

The sump will be on a table that I'll build - 6 x 2 x 3ft, and I'll have the brutes down the table.

Also, I'm thinking on a way to "auto feed" the saltwater tank direclty from the salt bucket, so no need to manual work on that too.

The siphoning effect is one of my questions on that.

What if I have a power outage or the pump break?

That's my million dollar question.

That's the "preparation" for the upgrade, and I need to build a solid foundation to restart with the new tank.

Thanks for the tips!


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Unread 01/31/2021, 10:09 PM   #5
BarIzoN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vinny Kreyling View Post
That pump will do just fine, just put a valve on the exit in case. A silicone pad used for putting anything hot on a table should be fine. Put sump up on a bench - reduces head pressure & makes working on it easier.
If the floor is smooth you can put 1 of the brute cans on wheels made especially for brute.
Use flex for now, pvc when you get the new tank.

As I don't have a drain nearby, I'm thinking to add a new diverting pipe to send water from the sump to the drain on the other side, for water changes.

OK... In fact I have that silicone pad and I think my wife will miss one... LOL.


Now, is that ok on using PVC pipe from the sump to the pump? How about the vibration?

I'll build a bench, 3ft high, so that will make things easier. I have a HOB skimmer, I'll attach to the sump and I'll buy a carbon reactor as well.

I'll follow your advice: I'll build witht the flex hose now, then I'll go for PVC to the new tank.

Thanks a lot!


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Unread 02/01/2021, 06:50 AM   #6
caribfan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarIzoN View Post
All right:

I have 30 ft distance from wall to wall.

Yes, I do know how to do plumbing and electrical.

For the electrical side, I was thinking to have a power cord extension for the return pump, heater and the power head on the brute for the mixing station. On the other side, I do have outlets exclusive for the fish tank.

The sump will be on a table that I'll build - 6 x 2 x 3ft, and I'll have the brutes down the table.

Also, I'm thinking on a way to "auto feed" the saltwater tank direclty from the salt bucket, so no need to manual work on that too.

The siphoning effect is one of my questions on that.

What if I have a power outage or the pump break?

That's my million dollar question.

That's the "preparation" for the upgrade, and I need to build a solid foundation to restart with the new tank.

Thanks for the tips!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I was more talking about the siphon / chugging effect that a lot of basement sumps suffer from. If you haven't all ready, do a search for a BEANIMAL overflow set up, highly recommend it. Tank will be whisper quiet and splashing and salt creep will be minimized significantly. What overflow are you planning to use?

In terms of the power outage, the tank should only drain as low as the overflow box maintains level in the tank...UNLESS you don't drill a siphon break in the supply line to the tank.

A siphon break is basically a small hole, drilled into the supply line inside of the tank that is angled toward the water in your tank. I wish I had a picture I could show you. In the even of a power outage, instead of water draining back down your return line, the small hole causes a break.

Alternatively, you could install a check valve on the output of the pump and honestly, it's not a bad idea to have both.

I'll try to get a picture and show you what I'm talking about on the siphon break, unless you think you've got it.

Also, I would not go the extension cord route, tank upgrades always seem to take longer than you hope and running all that amperage through an extension cord for an extended period of time is risky.

I would take the time to run a dedicated outlet, GFCI, and get your power supply set up properly.

Fun project, don't rush it, take your time and think about it.


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Unread 02/01/2021, 08:44 AM   #7
Vinny Kreyling
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Figure the sump to run approx. 1/2 full.
This will allow for Drain Down when the pump shuts off.
Running returns high up in the water will help some. The siphon break is a good idea bit it will have to be checked regularly to avoid clogging @ the worst time. Ask me how I know. Agreed on putting a dedicated electrical line to the sump. Don't skimp on the bench size. You Always need extra room. The return pump can be hard plumbed to the sump & use a dual or single union ball valve so it can be removed without draining the sump.


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Unread 02/01/2021, 08:49 AM   #8
Vinny Kreyling
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A careful look @ the sump says 20 gallon. Personally I would have @ least a 40 gallon.
If you can find something used that holds water even better. Never hurts to have more water. And with an upgrade you will need it. Especially if you go big.


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Unread 02/01/2021, 09:06 PM   #9
caribfan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vinny Kreyling View Post
Figure the sump to run approx. 1/2 full.
This will allow for Drain Down when the pump shuts off.
Running returns high up in the water will help some. The siphon break is a good idea bit it will have to be checked regularly to avoid clogging @ the worst time. Ask me how I know. Agreed on putting a dedicated electrical line to the sump. Don't skimp on the bench size. You Always need extra room. The return pump can be hard plumbed to the sump & use a dual or single union ball valve so it can be removed without draining the sump.
Totally agree on checking the siphon break, algae tends to grow there.

I always like the breeder variety for sumps, my current sump is a 50 breeder.


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Unread 02/03/2021, 06:09 AM   #10
rockrooster
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Is there anyone who has tried the solar air pump in the tank? I think that is an optional way to prevent power off.
Anaerobic industrial glue is a good means to glue the glass.
I prefer a cordless drill tool to open a hole because the torque is adjustable and will not break the grass.
I would like to wear upper protected shoes rather than sandals to prevent the pointy nails and sharp glasses
A big fish tank is better than a small one. Calculate the size on the design paper and well-measured everything before making it. That prevents the issue of upgrade the tank.

Am I going to build a strange fish tank?


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Unread 02/03/2021, 10:19 AM   #11
BarIzoN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vinny Kreyling View Post
A careful look @ the sump says 20 gallon. Personally I would have @ least a 40 gallon.
If you can find something used that holds water even better. Never hurts to have more water. And with an upgrade you will need it. Especially if you go big.

Currently, I have a 55G and doesn't make much sense to have a 40G as a sump.
When upgrading, I'll use the 55G as a sump and this 20Gal as a refugium.

Indeed, never hurts to have more water! 😁

Thank you!


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Unread 02/03/2021, 10:22 AM   #12
BarIzoN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caribfan View Post
Totally agree on checking the siphon break, algae tends to grow there.

I always like the breeder variety for sumps, my current sump is a 50 breeder.
I'll research the bean animal setup for the next tank, and I'll be with this overflow box temporarily at least to avoid all the crashes I'm having with the filter.

Thanks!


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Unread 02/03/2021, 11:31 AM   #13
caribfan
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What crashes are you having with your current filter?


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Unread 02/05/2021, 10:16 PM   #14
BarIzoN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caribfan View Post
What crashes are you having with your current filter?

High nitrates.

Affected most of my corals.

Now it will be a long journey to get them back on track again... But I'm amazed how life is resilient.

This was totally my fault.

I bought the materials for the table, I already measured and tomorrow I'll cut and assemble.

Now, I need to build the sump, cutting the glass and attaching the pump... I need to go through the details on sizes, plumbing, etc...


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Unread 02/06/2021, 06:19 PM   #15
BarIzoN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarIzoN View Post
High nitrates.

Affected most of my corals.

Now it will be a long journey to get them back on track again... But I'm amazed how life is resilient.

This was totally my fault.

I bought the materials for the table, I already measured and tomorrow I'll cut and assemble.

Now, I need to build the sump, cutting the glass and attaching the pump... I need to go through the details on sizes, plumbing, etc...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Built this table to hold the sump and the pump - a little longer (6ft) for the next sump.

I'll reinforce the corners.

It's sturdy, but a little wobling when shaking from the sides...

I have a Kreg Jig for pocket holes, and to build this was easier than I thought in a low budget.

Next step a polyurethane coat for waterproofing the wood.






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Unread 02/06/2021, 06:59 PM   #16
Vinny Kreyling
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If it wobbles at all it's NG!!!!!


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Unread 02/06/2021, 07:01 PM   #17
caribfan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarIzoN View Post
High nitrates.

Affected most of my corals.

Now it will be a long journey to get them back on track again... But I'm amazed how life is resilient.

This was totally my fault.

I bought the materials for the table, I already measured and tomorrow I'll cut and assemble.

Now, I need to build the sump, cutting the glass and attaching the pump... I need to go through the details on sizes, plumbing, etc...


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I am unabashedly a FOWLR guy, so nitrates don’t really bother me. But having said that, what’s your plan to battle them with this current sump? Are you going to use a bio pellet reactor or five of some sort?


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