My Project ★ GENESIS ★ 110G (Miracle) SPS Dream Tank - (I) Pre-Build Thread

[Rakie]

Originally Posted by Wally.B

Thanks Rakie.
This is all good learning.
Some kind of Wrasse might be a option.
Do the Wrasse all have to be same kind to Shoal? Or can you mix a few certain kinds?

Mostly it's fairy wrasse that seem to shoal. They're super social, so they will interact with everything in the tank, but they'll prefer to interact with other fairy wrasse if the option is there. You don't ever want multiple males of the same species of Fairy, but different species of fairy are great.

Fairy wrasse are probably the largest group of wrasse to choose from in our hobby. Most of them have a good temperament and get along with one another. Fish like the Melanurus are more solitary, the Leopard is halfway between more solitary and social.

Hawaiian flame wrasse would be good, I think it fits the description of the colors you like, both bold but not too busy. Here's a Hawaiian Flame Wrasse -- compared to say, the melanurus, it sort of reminds me of why you liked the black cap basslet

[Wally.B]

Originally Posted by Rakie

Mostly it's fairy wrasse that seem to shoal....[/IMG]

Hmm. I need to discover the Wrasse Families.
I only stumbled on that one Fairy Wrasse for the price/Size. I wanted more nutrients in the tank so took the nicest fish in the store that ate well.

This Wrasse looks more like in my price range (too bad it sold out )


I did not photo shop that image. Actual price.

Same with this fish....Darn... It was on sale



Hard to believe.....(Hey, makes the Purple & Achilles Tang look cheap)


BUT......I just don't want another Fire Goby type fish like I have. I know he is alive if I really look hard for his tail inside the rocks. He never comes out.

What I've learned over the years is you need the right mix (fish that get along) or sometimes (interact to bring out the best in other fish).

One example is my Isolated Blue Green Chromis's. When I got that Powder Brown Tang, they started following him in a group. They would swim behind him and learn his style of swimming in the current.
He would swim into their hiding places, and spook them. So they would come out, and I enjoyed their presence.
When he died, they went back to their old ways.

I may be able to solve two things with the new fish.
Move one of my Fish (Tomini Tang) to my other Tank to get the Chromis's having a mentor.

I don't think I will be able to keep multiple Tangs from the Stergeon Species in my new Tank. It may be just the Purple Tang. Possibly with the Yellow Tang.
And then some of the NEW FISH we are discussing (Black Cap, Wrasse, Anthias, etc)

The opportunity I have is New Tank won't be permanent at the beginning, so I'll be able to yank Fish and adjust.
My Kitchen tank with it's overgrowing Corals and Rocks it a ONE WAY STREET for fish. (FISH IN...No out.....I tried all the trap methods...Impossible, or I don't have the patience)
And what's worse, is no way to treat fish.

[Wally.B]

NEW TANK UPDATE (Arriving very soon)

All this fish Talk was just a distraction since I can't do anything more.....

I called Derek at Miracles Aquarium today. He confirmed EuroTop is all done.

TANK will ARIVE NEXT WEEK (Latter part)

I'm nervous and excited.

Following weekend will be fun

[Rakie]

Glad it's showing up soon!

So for me, my setup for fish is very communal. Nothing really fights, and everything is always out.

Too few fish, and the little ones will be spooked and hide all day. You need fish that are out and active to make them feel comfortable, when no fish are around, that means there's a predator in the area, that means HIDE.

I've got a Lunate fairy wrasse, blue flasher wrasse, and black leopard wrasse. The three of them get along great. The Firefish is not timid with these fish and is always out -- Firefish will come out if the tank is either 1) Busy or 2) Empty -- When empty, they're especially easy to spook. My basslet (assessor) is out all the time as well, nobody bothers him at all. The gobies are always out and about, the Anthias is always out.

Everything was based around having a friendly atmosphere with fish that are pretty peaceful -- The notable exception would be the wrasse, which is pretty relaxed but not as relaxed as a goby. To keep my big Lunate wrasse busy, I needed more wrasses. THey keep each other company.

My biggest thing with fish that hide is people don't stock the tank enough. I don't see why a tank your size isn't going to have 12+ fish. With modern equipment "Water Quality" is a non-existent problem. Any skimmer can deal with a medium fish load.

For your tank, I believe overstocked would be about 25 fish. Otherwise, you can easily house 5-6 wrasse, two tangs, 5-6 gobies, 4-5 anthias, basslet, and a whole bunch of other fish.

[tenurepro]

Originally Posted by Wally.B

NEW TANK UPDATE (Arriving very soon)



All this fish Talk was just a distraction since I can't do anything more.....



I called Derek at Miracles Aquarium today. He confirmed EuroTop is all done.



TANK will ARIVE NEXT WEEK (Latter part)



I'm nervous and excited.



Following weekend will be fun

Yay! Exciting exciting!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[reefmutt]

Originally Posted by Wally.B

NEW TANK UPDATE (Arriving very soon)

All this fish Talk was just a distraction since I can't do anything more.....

I called Derek at Miracles Aquarium today. He confirmed EuroTop is all done.

TANK will ARIVE NEXT WEEK (Latter part)

I'm nervous and excited.

Following weekend will be fun

Oh baby! Now it’s getting serious!!

[Wally.B]

YIKES!!!!
What have I gotten myself into.

I was thinking a few more hermits, snails, 2-3 fish and some new SPS frags

Now Rakie is talking 25 Fish!!!

Sounds like I will be feeding 5-10 cubes a day like Reefmutt!!!

There was no plan for new lighting, and I'm leaning towards All T5 which was at the bottom of my choices list.

Tenurepro wants me to bring back a partial sandbed!!!!

Groan

Yup this is going to be fun building.....but once the water goes in....Things barely have gotten started.

"Project Genesis" is living up to it's name.

[Rakie]

Ahahah, You don't NEED 25 fish, but I'm saying you have that kind of room.

Honestly, I'd say 10-12 fish is pretty solid. A tang or two (smaller ones), 3-4 wrasse, Either a solitary anthias like a sunburst or a small shaol of them, bunch of little gobies, etc etc.

So here's how my tank works -- This is something to note with taller tanks, as you can more easily exploit their height.

Top water level
- Yellow Assessor
- Firefish
- Flasher Wrasse

Mid-low water level
- Fairy Wrasse
- Sunburst Anthias
- Leopard Wrasse

Bottom/Rockwork
- Tangaroa goby
- Neon goby

Those are the comfort zones of my fish. For you, with a deeper and larger tank, it would be easy for you to have 3-4 fish that occupy those zones. 3-4 fish that hang out above the reef, a few that hang out mid-tank, and a few rock dwelling little guys.

Think about your reef in zones, and think about your fish's prospective habits. They all have a zone they like to hang out in, or certain rock structures that make them feel secure. You can dictate where your fish congregate by rockwork alone once you have experience.

My firefish and Assessor LOVE to hang out at the edge of the reef. Not open water, but at the cliff face of my rockwork. that's their 'zone', they feel most comfy there.

My Leopard loves inspecting the rockwork for goodies. He's in and out of caves all day, looking in nooks and crannies for any poor pods that may have escaped his mouth. He routinely bumps into my Fairy wrasse, and gobies, and Sunburst. He rarely runs into my Assessor, Firefish, or Flasher Wrasse who hang out above the rockwork

So for example: if you made a little cove on one side, and had a sheer drop off, the odds are your Firefish would like that area. On the other hand, Anthias that are not Sunburst / Borbs will like to be above the reef. Fairy wrasse will be at all levels wandering around like colorful zombies. Leopard wrasse will be relatively tight to the rockwork in general looking for goodies. Gobies will be on/in the rockwork, and won't typically leave those area's unless it's feeding time. Other gobies prefer sand.

Try to think about stocking in zones

[Wally.B]

Originally Posted by Rakie

Ahahah, You don't NEED 25 fish, but I'm saying you have that kind of room.

....

So here's how my tank works -- This is something to note with taller tanks, as you can more easily exploit their height.

.....

Try to think about stocking in zones

Thanks Rakie. Great tip on the Zones.
I need to select my fish for exactly that kind of setup.

One thing that is my Passion (which I have achieved in my tightly packed Kitchen tank) is ROCK SCAPING.

It interests me (Visually/Fish-Habitat) more than corals, but is critical for Coral Layout in the long run (Especially SPS for all around good lighting access).

This is my 65 Gallon tank, and how it started back in 2014.



Yeah that Sand Bed was nice all white and new (but never again)

I really liked the Multi-Island Style, which allows fish to have their own homes/Territory. (3 STACKS)
It also get's them out visually travelling between each separate habitat zone (as seen by the Yellow Tang)

The Island Style fell apart after 2 rebuilds (was just rushed)



Above Photo approx. 1.5 years later (after a nutrient increase experiment) was a good reason

If you think above was bad......It got worse before the tear down.




(I tried all kind of things. Pruning, CUC, etc) and eventually gave up.

It wasn't a total disaster since I learned a lot (what not to do)
and actually made A Star Wars Parody movie using the Tank as One of the sets.



(Algae Wars) EPISODE 1 [THE PLAN]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ycQ9YPuAaVk&t=13s

(Algae Wars) EPISODE 2 [THE WEAPON]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AbjrROyxjlo&t=3s

Never did Episode 3 the Ending (Was suppose to be this last Christmas break... delayed by new Tank....but it will come out maybe next Christmas Break)

Anyway.....
I pretty well have EXACTLY the SAME ROCKS. With a few 2-3 extra Nice Shaped Select pieces I borrowed from Kitchen Tank (And Sterilized for anything bad...Now in the 65 and turning into BLOBS of CORALINE).

So with the Larger (Deeper 24") (Wider 46") tank, I should be able to setup something better.

That is one thing I really look forward to in the new setup (ROCK SCAPING LAYOUT).

[Wally.B]

Tank Delivery/Install (Prep) Adjustment Needed

Double checking things since Miracle will deliver tank and carry it in.



I made the Tank Portal ROUGH-Cut out too Perfect (22").
It would be fine, if tank were to be carried in from other Side, but 65Gal Tank is in way. (Means Storage Shelf would have to be move [big job] )

Might cut out 1 1/2" more at TOP and start wood panel work above.

Miracle also recommend I put the tank on 1/2" Self Leveling Styrofoam. It also compreses to fill in TANK base without Trim [for even Weight Distribution across whole tank bottom, NOT JUST Trim Edges.. (Styrofoam sheet will come with the tank)

Tough decision (since I'd rather work on wall when tank is in place), but that has different challenges.

[Wally.B]

Steel Studs (Really Tough to Cut) WHEN in Wall

I really hate cutting Steel Studs. Very Dangerous work (to get a bad deep hand cut)

Found this video which seems like a Piece of Cake with CUTTERS
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1Ers3eMDB8

This method (Power Saw) Looked good too.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1Ers3eMDB8

Problem is you can't really do either when the Stud is already attached to Drywall.

But I got it done with the (CUTTER and Good GLOVES) for the Flat Wall Runs.



For CORNER I had to use my Trusty JigSaw and Metal blade.



Also as shown above (I had to dig into the plaster to get the Stud Screws removed) to release the Left-OVER loose Stud.

SO All ready. When Tank arrives, I can quickly cut the Drywall as much as needed in like 60 seconds.

I don't have to do any Wood Panel Work yet.

[Wally.B]

SumpRoom (Floor Waterproofing) & Wall Work

No point twiddling my thumbs waiting for Tank to Arrive. (The more I do this week/next the faster the Tank Install/Build will go)

Started the Sump Room Wall and Floor Sealing / Restore Work

Bought this inexpensive ChipBoard [NorBoard] Paneling.
After Cutting out old Rotten Bottom Drywall (Just put a few spacer Pieces of Good Drywall on Bottom)
.....Then just put the NorBoard right over the whole Wall. (Over the good Upper Drywall).



Stuff smells nice. Natural Woody Smell [It does have a light coating of sealer on one side]

But I'll paint over it with some waterproof paint (For Color and Extra protect the wall from Sump Mist)

FLOOR SEALING (MOST IMPORTANT)



Re-using old Ripped out 2x4" for a Study Bottom Spacer.
The 2x4 will also hold up the SUMP Stand.

Will use the BlueSkin Water Proof Membrane (2 Strips) to Seal WALL-TO-Concrete Floor.

[Wally.B]

SUMP SIZE/Location (Perfect Alignment with Tank) EXTRA Space [For Dosing Station/Water Changer]

A bit of LUCK. Something I didn't calculate/plan. (I was a bit shocked when I noticed this just now)



The Sump Stand will be higher. But this mock up shows location/Size.

Strange that Larger Tank (receded) will actually give me more space in Sump Room.

This happens since Far Side of Tank will NOT need space to clean Glass inside SUmp room. That Glass Side with be outside of Sump room (in Rec Room)
The other factor is the SIDE External Overflow. Previously Overflow Bulkhead was at back of tank and hose had to wrap around to reach sump.

Just enough EXTRA space for some nice Shelving for the DIY Dosing Controller, and the Dosing Bottles.

This also opens up a Future Possibilty to Placing FRAG TANK beside Sump Room and Run it off same Sump.

[Wally.B]

OVERALL SUMP ROOM (Improvements) With Larger Tank !!!!!

I'm actually sitting here in a STUNNED Creative Daze, after reviewing the revelation of Sump Placement and Overall extra space in sump room.

I never planned these BELOW improvements at all. Things just luckily came together.

-> The Kithchen Sump will fit under the Tank Stand
-> The Sump will be higher for better Maintenance Access
-------> Couldn't be higher before due to (drain flow DROP) required.
-> Sump will be in better Position to give Sump Room more space.
-> I can fit the Doser, Water Top Up Reservoir into the Sump Room
-> Frag tank can be added in ideal placement to reach Sump
-> Extra Space at far end to hide Kitchen Tank above Drain Hoses

Wonderfully weird outcome

I could have FIT a 200Gallon Tank (Yikes, 50 Fish, and 20 Cubes a day). NOT!!

[Wally.B]

Proof / Justification ( Water Proofing Sump Room) Another Mini Flood

This morning I found a mini Flood.



Same as Past. Sump room would drain under my Dri-Core Office Floor, into Basement Drain.

HERE IS WHY the (mini) Flood Happened



When I moved around things last night that Top Up line got in the way of the Float Shut off valve of my RO Reservoir.

Happened before, so I have lines all Tie Wrapped (but things shifted last night).

This is why I want Sump Room Sealed, and a proper water drain channel Establish.

[reefmutt]

Was just fresh water I assume? Not to bad a flood..
Looking good Wally
If you had planned a bit better you’d have a bigger tank!
Oh well.. next upgrade.
Looking forward to seeing the tank in position.

[Wally.B]

Yes, nothing but super Clean RO water from Top up bucket. RO spills are slow since system has to make it.

Bigger tank. No thanks.
I'm already worrying about the Larger Water Change costs, fish, corals, etc

Fits just perfect the size that is coming.

Last upgrade EVER.

SHOULD I GO (Blue Plus for all 6 Bulbs?) Or (Make one Coral Plus)?

[Rakie]

Originally Posted by Wally.B

Yes, nothing but super Clean RO water from Top up bucket. RO spills are slow since system has to make it.

Bigger tank. No thanks.
I'm already worrying about the Larger Water Change costs, fish, corals, etc

Fits just perfect the size that is coming.

Last upgrade EVER.

SHOULD I GO (Blue Plus for all 6 Bulbs?) Or (Make one Coral Plus)?

You really only need to do a 5g water change every other week. Doesn't matter if you have a 300g or a biocube. 5 gallons. that's it.

I did my first water change in 3 months the other day. No problems.

As for lights, 3B+, 2C+, 1 Actinic. That was the best color I had ever gotten. The actinic pulls colors and pop, the 3b/2c are a balanced 16-18k nice blue but not TOO blue. The Coral+ is the most balanced light they make, it literally has bits and pieces from EVERY SINGLE BULB THEY MAKE! It's amazing, and the most underrated T5 bulb ever developed. The only reason I prefer to run An extra B+ is because too many looks a tad pink -- I think a 3:2 ratio of them is perfect visually.

You can also look at Jason Fox... He uses 100% Actinic Bulbs, WITH reef brite blue LEDs.

https://youtu.be/jx0gU7DumDo?t=5m54s

[reefmutt]

Originally Posted by Wally.B

Yes, nothing but super Clean RO water from Top up bucket. RO spills are slow since system has to make it.

Bigger tank. No thanks.
I'm already worrying about the Larger Water Change costs, fish, corals, etc

Fits just perfect the size that is coming.

Last upgrade EVER.

SHOULD I GO (Blue Plus for all 6 Bulbs?) Or (Make one Coral Plus)?

I dare you to ask Big E this question..
I’d have 2 coral plus for sure.

[reefmutt]

Originally Posted by Rakie

You really only need to do a 5g water change every other week. Doesn't matter if you have a 300g or a biocube. 5 gallons. that's it.

I did my first water change in 3 months the other day. No problems.

As for lights, 3B+, 2C+, 1 Actinic. That was the best color I had ever gotten. The actinic pulls colors and pop, the 3b/2c are a balanced 16-18k nice blue but not TOO blue. The Coral+ is the most balanced light they make, it literally has bits and pieces from EVERY SINGLE BULB THEY MAKE! It's amazing, and the most underrated T5 bulb ever developed. The only reason I prefer to run An extra B+ is because too many looks a tad pink -- I think a 3:2 ratio of them is perfect visually.

You can also look at Jason Fox... He uses 100% Actinic Bulbs, WITH reef brite blue LEDs.

https://youtu.be/jx0gU7DumDo?t=5m54s

I agree with Rakie’s lighting comments but not so much with the wc regimen.. a little light for me.. especially if you’re dosing. Ca reactor, I’d be more comfortable..
but then, I’m old school..

[Wally.B]

Originally Posted by reefmutt

I dare you to ask Big E this question..
I’d have 2 coral plus for sure.

I took on your dare.

Ed replied.
Suggests I use 50/50 C+ B+. (Which what he has been running last 7 years and is happy).
So I ordered 4B+ and 2C+ for now. Also ordered the Reflectors and End caps for 6 Bulbs.
But I can quickly get 1 C+ at LFS to go 50/50.

Since I am ordering the HEP Ballasts directly from Manufacturer and shipping is a good portion of the cost (Ballasts are cheap).
I will be ordering 3x (2x54W non-dimmable ballasts SI254-58 UNI $18 ) and 1 EXTRA ballast (54W x2 Bulb Dimmable SD254-58 UNI $40).

This will give me a spare and some flexibility.

I played with all the ATI bulbs in my Kitchen Tank (B+, C+, ABS+, P+, and Actinic).

I started off with this this setup on 4ft Kitchen Tank (all 3ft 24W bulbs, but I staggered them over rocks cape target areas).



Right now I am running B+,B+ (non-dimmable), and C+,P+ (dimmable) with the Kessil.

The variety is impressive, and the reason for the dimmable P+ is it adds great coloration for the Fish and Corals (but I don't like to crank it up to 100% since I've noticed too much red increases my Nuisance Algae beyond what the Algae Blenny can Eat)

With my current NEW TANK lighting purchase....I will have options to tune the NEW Tank lighting over time (to suit my tastes) after seeing tank light up.

[Rakie]

I would have said the same Matt, until a local right in my area with a 120g told me he did a 5g change every 2 weeks. He's got an SPS dominant tank that's just phenomenal, and was a featured tank at Marine Depot.

That, coupled with me running a no water change program really opened my eyes on how we may not need to change so much. At best, were replacing trace. Run a little carbon once every 3-4 weeks for like 4-5 days and really the water is pretty close to pristine.

And Wally, great bulb choices. You won't regret the C+ bulbs, they're great.

[Wally.B]

I have mixed feelings/experience about water changes.

In my LPS/Mix Kitchen tank, I am really bad with Water changes, but it continues to thrive.

I do a water change like every 6-8 weeks (when I remember, or when I see a little bit of receding on coral). Then I do either a 10% or 15% water change on that 90 Gallon tank.

It could be the fact that I don't have a large fish load. But my Coral load is quite large. Possibly most are filter feeders so self cleaning tank.

However I think not doing enough water changes is a ticking time bomb. Similar to an unmaintained sand bed.

Now for my SPS tank (past and future), I don't think I can get away with that kind of neglect.

I have a 5 Gallon Auto Water changer so plan to water changes based on that limit (To keep thing automated. PUSH BUTTON).

I find this EFFECTIVTE Water Change CACLUATOR handy.
https://www.hamzasreef.com/Contents/...aterChange.php

I the calculator to do that RESET on the OLD TANK.

I'll probably be doing 5 Gallon water changes (at minimum once a week) on the new 110 Gallon Tank. We'll see. I plan to be on the side of over-caution.

Since I'm talking about Handy Calculators, this SALINITY TOP UP CALCULATOR is my next Favorite.
https://www.hamzasreef.com/Contents/...aterTopOff.php

Many ways to use the calculator, but it has proven to me as very accurate to reset Salinity slowly (by swapping out my RO Water Top up, with a bucket of pre-mixed Salt Water at the right spec).

[Wally.B]

I'm BORED (Can't do much in Sump Room Till TANK ARRIVES) Starting DRI-CORE Floor

I have lots of ideas for Sump Room (but best to wait).



Getting head start on the SUB-Floor. Will cover with plastic since this layer can't handle any water.
Will be safe when WaterProof Panels go over.

Also finally Ordered the WPC Panel Flooring after Deciding on Color. Tough decision but going to showrooms finally got me convince on best color.
(That will also arrive next week).

[Wally.B]

DRI-CORE (Sub-Floor) Completed

I know this is boring (no-Fish-Tank Stuff) Update.

But I got the Sub-Floor done. Perfectly Level (using the Dri-Cor Shimy's)



Some waste at each end of Row, but the OLD Office Dri-Core and New Dri-Core Lined up nicely (No cuts-No Waste).

Now that both Office and Rec Room are same level, I will be able to Slide out my Office desk (easier).