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Unread 12/17/2014, 02:07 PM   #276
acesq
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At least is all I can definitively say in my system. I had issues with 2 which I do not attribute to the blocks but cannot rule it out either. After I took out one block, and made numerous other changes, my animals are all thriving. I seriously doubt it had anything to do with removing the block other than it allowed my nitrates to rise to a detectable level. Hence my conclusion from my experience that "at least one block" in a 400 g system is safe.


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Unread 12/17/2014, 02:25 PM   #277
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My Triton Results

I am using 1 8x8x4 block in my sump of my 135g tank. I've been having issues keeping sps alive for a while now, even before adding the marine pure block. I added the block to my system to reduce nitrates. It has done a great job at that. My Al levels are elevated, but I don't know if it's because of the block or not, and I don't know if this is really my problem when it comes to keeping corals... I would like to raise my Iodine levels, and my Ca seems a little high. I will probably turn off my CO2 in the calcium reactor to help reduce calcium levels (my alk levels are higher than I'd like as well, although Triton doesn't test for that for some reason..?)... Anyways, enough rant - here are results.

I tested everything right before taking the Triton samples so that I'd be able to compare some of them.

My test results:
Calcium (salifert): 465 ppm
Alk: Salifert = 11.5 dKH, Hanna #1 reagent = 11.312 dKH, Hanna #2 reagent = 11.2 dKH
Magnesium (salifert): 1365ppm
Salinity: Refractometer = 34-35 ppt, Pinpoint Probe = 52.8 mS
Potassium (salifert): 440 ppm
Nitrate (salifert): 5 ppm
Phosphate (Hanna ULR 736 checker): 0.01533 ppm

Triton Results below... I hope someone can give me a little more input (Randy???!??!!) as to how these results look.


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Unread 12/17/2014, 06:08 PM   #278
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Those results look fairly normal to me. I didn't see anything that's likely to be an issue. There is more aluminum in the water than normal, which might be due to various media. The other high levels (like lithium) seem fairly common, and likely are from the salt product or additives.


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Unread 12/18/2014, 01:24 PM   #279
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Plus 1...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Maximus View Post
I wish I understood what you two are talking about!
"Miss Jane I have no ider what you just said" Jethro Bodine.


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Unread 12/18/2014, 01:57 PM   #280
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Wouldn't it be wiser to use the balls over the blocks? Seems to have more surface area or am I mistaken?


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Unread 12/18/2014, 03:12 PM   #281
EvMiBo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raul-7 View Post
Wouldn't it be wiser to use the balls over the blocks? Seems to have more surface area or am I mistaken?
One 8x8x4 block has 23,000 sq.ft, each sphere (1.5" diameter) is 240 sq.ft. They're made out of the same material.

The spheres come in either 2 quart containers or 1 gallon. I can't seem to find how many spheres are in the gallon, but you'd need about 96 of them to get the same amount of coverage the 8x8x4 block covers. I would guess the 1 gallon container of spheres is close or equal to a 8x8x4 block.

I've never used the balls but I think they'd be really good for a system with extremely limited space. I have my block sitting vertically in sump and rotate every month or so, works for me... I've also seen people running the 8x8x1 "plates" in their sump baffles when you need to save space.


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Unread 12/18/2014, 03:18 PM   #282
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I also see on their website, the 4" block is the only media rated for nitrate removal.


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Unread 12/19/2014, 12:27 PM   #283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raul-7 View Post
I also see on their website, the 4" block is the only media rated for nitrate removal.
Correct. Denitrfying bacteria are anaerobic. A large block provides area deep within the structure devoid of oxygen. The balls and 1" plates are simply too small/narrow to encourage these environments.


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Unread 12/20/2014, 08:59 AM   #284
Randy Holmes-Farley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvMiBo View Post

My test results:
Calcium (salifert): 465 ppm
Alk: Salifert = 11.5 dKH, Hanna #1 reagent = 11.312 dKH, Hanna #2 reagent = 11.2 dKH
Magnesium (salifert): 1365ppm
Salinity: Refractometer = 34-35 ppt, Pinpoint Probe = 52.8 mS
Potassium (salifert): 440 ppm
Nitrate (salifert): 5 ppm
Phosphate (Hanna ULR 736 checker): 0.01533 ppm
If the Triton results are correct, your salinity is substantially above 35 ppt.


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Unread 12/20/2014, 09:53 AM   #285
sowildpaul
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Holmes-Farley View Post
If the Triton results are correct, your salinity is substantially above 35 ppt.
Unrelated to this post of yours, I have a question about nitrification. Example; 1 1/2" spheres (by Marine Pure, not plastic bioballs) in traditional wet/dry systems (trickle/shower filters) work better than the same ones fully submerged since nitrification requires plenty of oxygen. Is that true? (I am not talking about fully submerged blocks which are intended for denitrification that requires lack of oxygen.)



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Unread 12/20/2014, 10:10 AM   #286
EvMiBo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Holmes-Farley View Post
If the Triton results are correct, your salinity is substantially above 35 ppt.
Randy,

Could you elaborate some for me? Why can I not trust my refractometer and pinpoint probe? (Fwiw, they're calibrated with 35ppt fluid)


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Unread 12/20/2014, 01:22 PM   #287
Randy Holmes-Farley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvMiBo View Post
Randy,

Could you elaborate some for me? Why can I not trust my refractometer and pinpoint probe? (Fwiw, they're calibrated with 35ppt fluid)
Maybe you can, and Triton is wrong. But something is inconsistent.

So if you right now put the Pinpoint probe into the 53 mS/cm fluid, and wait for it to stabilize, what do you get?

Same for the tank water.

Maybe the calibration fluid has evaporated to some extent.


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Unread 12/20/2014, 01:25 PM   #288
Randy Holmes-Farley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sowildpaul View Post
Unrelated to this post of yours, I have a question about nitrification. Example; 1 1/2" spheres (by Marine Pure, not plastic bioballs) in traditional wet/dry systems (trickle/shower filters) work better than the same ones fully submerged since nitrification requires plenty of oxygen. Is that true? (I am not talking about fully submerged blocks which are intended for denitrification that requires lack of oxygen.)
It is certainly true that nitrification requires oxygen. I do not know if the spheres are any better at that when in air vs submerged, but they might be, at least deep inside of them. On the surface, I doubt it matters.


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Unread 12/20/2014, 01:27 PM   #289
EvMiBo
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Marine pure ceramic biomedia

I actually purchased a brand new bottle of the pinpoint fluid specifically for my salinity tests prior to taking samples for triton. I calibrate the refractometer with the same fluid. So I'm pretty confident those are accurate readings (refrac. and pinpoint monitor).

I'm kind of paranoid about salinity (that's part of the reason why I have a refractometer and the pinpoint monitor) and I buy a brand new bottle of fluid every 2 months or so.

edit: pic attached with same fluid. then in my tank. tank seems a bit high, would you expect it to be higher based on what triton said? It was 52.8 mS/cm when I took the triton samples.

sorry if this is going too far off topic of the marine pure bio media subject!!!


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Unread 12/20/2014, 02:35 PM   #290
Randy Holmes-Farley
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It looks a lot higher in the Triton data. Something like 38 ppt.

That is based on all of sodium, calcium, magnesium, and potassium (all the major cations) being at least 10% higher than normal seawater at 35 ppt. If those are right, there's nothing else the other ions can do to bring it back down very much.


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Unread 12/20/2014, 03:09 PM   #291
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Okay. I'm at a loss because both of my salinity instruments, calibrated correctly are giving me nearly identical readings of 35ppt and 53.3mS.

For now I've turned off my calcium reactor gas for now, since both my salifert calcium and triton calcium especially were high. Not sure if that will help the situation but my sps corals have all slowly died anyways (reason unknown), no need to waste co2 for now.

What would you do if you were me Randy!? Should I pull down my tank water to 32ppt?

I'm going to borrow my brothers refractometer and different calibration fluid to see if I get the same salinity.

edit: again, I apologize if this is off topic from the marine pure discussion.


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Unread 01/22/2015, 09:10 AM   #292
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I haven't updated until now, but fwiw I think you were right Randy, my salinity was high. I used my brother's refractometer and fluid initially, and it tested at about 38ppt. I then bought two new calibration fluid bottles and they tested at about 37ppt. I've brought down the salinity since then to about 34ppt - I say "about" because I'm starting to realize that each fluid is a little different. I'm not sure what the issue was with my calibration fluid before, since it was newer, but it was about 3ppt off. I probably still would have been lost and confused without the Triton test telling me (and you, Randy!) that my Na levels were elevated. I just read your Triton article too btw, good reads as usual. Finally, what's left of my corals have responded positively! Thanks.


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Unread 01/22/2015, 12:05 PM   #293
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvMiBo View Post
I haven't updated until now, but fwiw I think you were right Randy, my salinity was high. I used my brother's refractometer and fluid initially, and it tested at about 38ppt. I then bought two new calibration fluid bottles and they tested at about 37ppt. I've brought down the salinity since then to about 34ppt - I say "about" because I'm starting to realize that each fluid is a little different. I'm not sure what the issue was with my calibration fluid before, since it was newer, but it was about 3ppt off. I probably still would have been lost and confused without the Triton test telling me (and you, Randy!) that my Na levels were elevated. I just read your Triton article too btw, good reads as usual. Finally, what's left of my corals have responded positively! Thanks.
Glad it's worked out and thanks!

Happy Reefing.


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Unread 04/16/2015, 12:51 PM   #294
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sorry to bump this thread, but i am concidering filling my reef tank (120g) with only a 8x8x4 block of marinepure and a sand bottom.

Reading this thread has caused me some concerns about this media leeching aluminum. Who is using this media at the moment and what would be the best practice as in flowrate and placement in the sump?

Would this media instead of siporax be the better option of the two? i've seen brazillians have great succes's with siporax.


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Unread 04/16/2015, 01:58 PM   #295
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Siporax is sintered glass, so it will not have the same "issue" of leaching aluminum.

That said, I maintain the aluminum found is almost certainly not an issue (because it's in the form of unreactive, non-toxic alumina). Many other things (that have been around a while) are made of aluminosilicate, such as zeolites... From what I have seen from Triton tests of Zeovit users, they also have increased elemental aluminum.

Short answer: siporax is a different material with no concerns about aluminum. Longer answer: don't be scared of the aluminum if the blocks are otherwise attractive to you.


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Unread 04/16/2015, 05:09 PM   #296
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Quote:
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Siporax is sintered glass, so it will not have the same "issue" of leaching aluminum.

That said, I maintain the aluminum found is almost certainly not an issue (because it's in the form of unreactive, non-toxic alumina). Many other things (that have been around a while) are made of aluminosilicate, such as zeolites... From what I have seen from Triton tests of Zeovit users, they also have increased elemental aluminum.

Short answer: siporax is a different material with no concerns about aluminum. Longer answer: don't be scared of the aluminum if the blocks are otherwise attractive to you.

Well said and seconded. I continue to use the marine pure block in my system. I did remove one to try to raise my nitrate to a detectable amount. My last triton test says I still have slightly elevated aluminum. But I cannot attribute any issues to it. I have a very happy leather coral too! (Randy found leathers sensitive to aluminum, but at concentrations much higher than reported by marine pure users that I have read)


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Unread 04/16/2015, 05:32 PM   #297
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What is MarinePure made of and will it leach anything into my water?
MarinePure is an inert aluminosilicate ceramic that has been fired over 1000°C. It will not leach into tank or pond water.
So it's up to you to believe it or not.


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Unread 04/16/2015, 09:14 PM   #298
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Since this thread got bumped, I'll say that my aquarium is doing very well. I haven't tested nitrates in a while but I know that they dropped from ~20ppm to under 2ppm when I added the block. I have about 30 different SPS frags growing in my tank now, and a small amount of zoas + LPS. I attribute part of the success to the block, and as far as I'm concerned I will not be running without one from here on out.


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Unread 04/16/2015, 10:06 PM   #299
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I am another success story for the block. After 5 weeks of use it has dropped my nitrates. Now I feed more to keep them around 7 to 10.


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Unread 04/17/2015, 12:16 AM   #300
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So am I...a 100G and a 150G each with one block and less live rock than normal and both very low nitrates for three years. However I think if you read more here on this you will conclude that the Aluminium question hasn't been totally resolved. I would be happy to have that sorted somehow. I dont think there is proven evidence that the blocks cause low nitrates but there seems to be a lot of coincidence. I have average fish and feeding loads in both tanks and have sometimes even added Seachem Flourish to get some nitrates showing in tests.
What I dont know is whether Al leaching is happening and having a negative impact on my inverts....


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