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Old 12/06/2004, 10:16 PM   #26
Zephrant
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Those would be pretty shallow- Neat idea if you could run them outside though. Free light, and frag tanks in 20' lengths.

Zeph


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Old 12/06/2004, 11:56 PM   #27
nyoneway
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very nicely done!


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Old 12/07/2004, 12:53 AM   #28
parrotfish2005
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Air in Return Line?

Could you please explain the ball valves and controling the amount of air in the drains? I am trying to silence some drain stand pipes and am curious what you were doing here.

Mark


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Old 12/07/2004, 09:57 PM   #29
Zephrant
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Try a search for Durso or Stockman- There is a ton written up on them. The basics are that controlling the air will control how much water gets pulled in to them.

Zeph


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Old 12/08/2004, 08:57 AM   #30
beeno
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This is cool. I have been thinking about doing something similar to connect some tanks in my new house. Thanks for posting this. Now I have a template.


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Old 12/08/2004, 09:23 AM   #31
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Zeph,

This is awesome! Not that I need another project in my friggin fish room but I might have to put this on the schedule.

Thanks!


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Old 12/09/2004, 01:27 AM   #32
laverda
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Great DIY project. I was thinking of making something like it (Long, thin & shallow) to work as a refugium for pods in my canopy.


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Old 12/09/2004, 12:43 PM   #33
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They are working out well so far- I still need to add a center brace to them- Too much bow in the sides, even with the short depth and top frame, so don't forget those when you build them.

The other downside was well known before I started- more acrylic to keep clean so I can see inside. I hate cleaning the front panels.

Zeph


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Old 12/09/2004, 03:14 PM   #34
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What is you used T5's for the lights it would run alot cooler.

Very nice idea by the way yet another great Zeph project


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Old 12/10/2004, 02:10 PM   #35
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T5s would be great- I had the VHOs on hand though- I want to put MH over the main frag tank, so was looking for a use for them.

Zeph


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Old 01/17/2005, 03:29 PM   #36
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The pictures aren't showing up for some reason.


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Old 01/17/2005, 07:20 PM   #37
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no pics for me either


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Old 01/17/2005, 07:21 PM   #38
serjuanca88
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http://barraquatic.com/how_raceway.php


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Old 01/17/2005, 10:45 PM   #39
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Sorry all- I updated my web server, and ended up moving those files. I put them back.

Zeph


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Old 01/18/2005, 12:20 AM   #40
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I've always wanted to do something similar with industrial grade stainless steel wire racks. Either using standard glass tanks like 33Long or custom acrylic tanks. A few frag shelves and a big sump/refuge on the bottom for those of us who can't plumb to an existing larger system. The rack linked to will support 600lbs a shelf and they make them stronger than that if you need it. I always thought it could make a killer frag system.


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Old 01/18/2005, 09:18 AM   #41
Red_Roadster
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Is that a table saw/router combo, or is it something you built? If it's brand name, what is it. Looks great!

Red


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Old 01/18/2005, 10:35 PM   #42
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DF- That would work well. I'll be keeping a close eye on them, as the bottoms are not supported, but they should last the few years that I'll be asking of them.

Red- That is a Craftsman table saw, with the router table added on. At the time, they came together in a kit. Being able to use the fence as shown is very nice, and is something that no stand alone router table can do.

I can skim off 1/32 on panels that are up to 30" wide.

Zeph


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Old 01/19/2005, 06:26 AM   #43
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Great concept Zeph

Hope you dont mind if I borrow it I was thinking of making one with a 4 dimensional lighting effect and utilizing suspension hanging this way you would be utlizing more of your growth per cubic inch. This would obviously only work well with branching corals. Have you thought about adding lights to the sides of the tank as well?


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Old 01/19/2005, 11:52 PM   #44
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Borrow away, that's why I post these things.

Side lighting is interesting- You would have to keep the sides clean is all.

Next time I'm going to make the bottom and back out of black, so I can take pictures better.

They would make a good tank for suspending corals by a thread too- I've not seen that idea advocated for years.

Zeph


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Old 02/16/2005, 09:42 AM   #45
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Zeph,
I enjoy reading your posts immensely. One thing that troubles me is the position of the material and the router fence. Any time you "trap" material between the fence and the bit you risk a serious kick back or having the material grabbed out of your hands flying across the shop at an unbelievable speed! Granted, your taking off very small amounts, but for the people that don't have the experience working with power tools, they may be tempted to take off too much in one pass. Better to use the fence with the bit trapped in it. If the table saw fence doesn't allow this , it is very easy to make a fence. For example, I made one out of a 2x2 peice of alum. angle, cut a notch in it for the bit and attached two peices of MDF to the face. When you want to take off say a 32nd. on the MDF that is on the left looking at the bit, loosen the screws attaching it and insert a 32nd shim behind it, poster board will do. That way it will act as your jointer does removing that amount of material from your workpiece. Plus, you will not have to re adjust your fence for each side. If you use spiral bits as I do you'll get a finsih that is a lot better then you can acheive on a jointer. I have a 8"PowerMatic jointer and trust me, it can't produce the results in acrylic that the $22 spiral bit does.I have been woodworking(furniture, etc.) for over 30 years and I have seen/had my unfair share of "oops!". I am in no way being critical just trying to offer a safer way to do things. Sincerely hope I didn't offend.
Jim


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Old 02/16/2005, 10:45 PM   #46
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Hey Jim- That is a common argument and you are perfectly correct. However there is one reason that I do it that way- by running the material between the fence and the bit, every sheet comes out exactly the same width. That is critical to building a water tight tank. Even 10 thousands off makes it harder to glue.

In practice, the dual finger boards prevent any kick-back, and it runs though very cleanly.

But your points are all valid- Never try it without the finger boards, and still, be very careful.

Routers can be dangerous- I know of a guy that was doing as you suggest, but fed the piece from the wrong side of the router. The bit picked it up and threw it across the garage, in to the side door of his wife's BMW.

Thanks for your post-

Zeph


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Old 02/17/2005, 11:24 AM   #47
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Zeph,
I've been playing with an idea similar to your raceway, but as a stand alone system. The setup would be like yours, but with a third raceway. 2 of the raceways would be just like yours( about 6" deep), but the third would be very shallow to act as a turf mat/ algae filter for filtration. The entire system would use surge type circulation, thus the algae matt would have water dumped on it once per minute. The entire setup would drain into a dedicated sump that would be used only as a water resevoir- 100% of filtration comes from the algae scrubber.

The only issue I can imagine is that nutrients would need to be added to maintain the algae, thus the corals would need to be fed.
Possible cheap materials to use- Vinyl rain gutters as raceway and salt bucket as sump. Surge via a carlson surge device or SCWD.

Your comments please?


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Old 02/17/2005, 10:08 PM   #48
Zephrant
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Sounds like a neat idea- The rain gutters are pretty small, and it might be tough to seal the ends, but it could be done.

The surge sounds good- You might have bubble problems on the middle tank though. I suspect that a Carlson or RCSD would not work well on that small of a water volume- A dump tank might be fine though, if it did not overflow.

Zeph


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Old 04/29/2005, 03:34 PM   #49
reefkeeper59
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Smile

Nice work.

I rent so I can't put holes in the walls.

Here is my solution to more space. 14 gal glass tank 56x8x8 sits on top of 240. It overhangs the back of tank by 2 1/2 inch to keep alot of weight on vertical glass rather than glass supports. It's been there for 8 months now, doing fine. Bulk head in each end allows for easy level control. Simply turn the elbow up or down for desired level. Try to keep half full ( 7 gal). Weight is 100-125 lbs depending on coral load. I needed more space (and still need alot more with 500 corals growing) and it was $75 (glass 55,silicone 10, bulkheads 10) and quick. Local glass shop cut the glass, I siliconed it together. Inlet line was already there for the show tank.

Setting up a 180gal now next to this 240 and 120.
Will move this uner the 180 on top of refugium/sump that will be 60x22x18.

If I owned this house. I'd just flood it and live with the corals. LOL










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Old 04/29/2005, 04:33 PM   #50
Beenalongtime79
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You have all those tanks and still rent your place? Good lord... I couldn't imagine having all those tanks and not being able to bust down walls and plumb all over. Hehe

Nice job.

Peace,
John H.


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