Olasana Lagoon: High Energy SPS Nano Build Thread

galleon · 01/12/2012, 01:41 PM

I wanted to do an extreme, Acropora-dominated nano...

Tank: 20 gallon long

Lighting: 400 watt horizontal Iwasaki 6500k

Circulation: Vortech mp10, 2nd harmonic wave during the day, long pulse surge at night, both at 100%

Control and Monitoring: Neptune Apex Lite

Top Off: Single float switch

Supplementation: Saturated kalkwasser top off only

Mechanical/Physical Filtration: Siphoning/dilution by water changes

Minimal live rock, only a few pieces of branch rock

The rock is old and causing a cycle at the moment.

rolodex1 · 01/12/2012, 03:49 PM

Go for it! I'd tag along for this one.......

allsps40 · 01/12/2012, 09:09 PM

For a 20L a 400w is over kill, you will need to mount it up high to keep from bleaching corals. The 20L is a shallow tank a 250w with a good reflector will be a better choice or a good T5 unit. Add in a sump for equipment and add volume which is always good for sps, a dosing method like 2 part pumps or kalk and a good skimmer also a must for sps.

allsps40 · 01/12/2012, 09:17 PM

For a 20L a 400w is over kill, you will need to mount it up high to keep from bleaching corals. The 20L is a shallow tank a 250w with a good reflector will be a better choice or a good T5 unit. Add in a sump for equipment and add volume which is always good for sps, a dosing method like 2 part pumps or kalk and a good skimmer also a must for sps.

galleon · 01/13/2012, 08:41 AM

allsps, tank volume/height is irrelevant. A 400 watt will work just fine. Lots of acros do just fine at the top of larger tanks lit by 400 watt bulbs. There will be photoperiod based acclimation to the intensity. I already had the bulb, fixture and ballast.

galleon · 01/13/2012, 10:48 AM

Cycle is finishing, water clearing up. Lots of suspended particulates and the Porites is loving it.

Chris Lakies · 01/13/2012, 10:51 AM

How will u deal with the heat from the 400 watt?

galleon · 01/13/2012, 10:53 AM

Chris, there's no canopy, it's open, tank never gets above 80. The Vortech puts almost no heat into the tank.

karsseboom · 01/13/2012, 02:26 PM

My biggest concern is heat also. It should be fine though if you can keep the heat down, your corals should super growing under that much light and color up nice.

sjfishguy · 01/13/2012, 02:39 PM

That's all the rock you are using?

galleon · 01/15/2012, 12:50 PM

Put a few boring small brown frags in. Also added a co-current skimmer made from PVC.

meshwheel · 01/15/2012, 01:09 PM

You need more rock for a stable system. Be VERY careful how quickly you proceed. Heat will be a issue unless the house is cooled by AC. Even then, you may have to add a fan.
A 400 watter is way overkill and a waste in my opinion.

galleon · 01/15/2012, 01:35 PM

MammothReefer · 01/15/2012, 01:49 PM

Never mind the 400w.. a 400w with a 6500k bulb over a 20L. That's as bright as you can get. How long are you keeping the lights on for, what's the plan for the tank colour up cheap brown outs?

galleon · 01/15/2012, 02:02 PM

The tank doesn't need more rock.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MammothReefer

Never mind the 400w.. a 400w with a 6500k bulb over a 20L. That's as bright as you can get. How long are you keeping the lights on for, what's the plan for the tank colour up cheap brown outs?

Mammoth, no plan really, right now they are my Acropora canaries. They were broken pieces at the LFS. I inspected closely for red bugs, etc. The fixture is 26" above the tank. I haven't decided on a feeding regimen yet. Right now the lights are only on a few hours a day (4 ish).

I've never used or seen anything like the Vortech before. I am old school and have been out of the game for a long time. I was going to just make a mini Carlson until I learned about these crazy little toys.

smsreefer · 01/15/2012, 02:45 PM

Love it !
I would not think you will need to any more corals though, those will be "wall to wall" in 6 mo. under the Iwasaki .LOL !

...waiting on the 6 mo. pic..
Have fun, enjoy.

meshwheel · 01/15/2012, 05:20 PM

Those frags would have a much better chance at survival with more live rock in the tank. More live rock= more food!
My tank has plankton swarms every night after the lights go out. They are a great food source and a sign of a healthy ecosystem......

Piper27 · 01/15/2012, 05:31 PM

Wow the title to this thread is amazing! Seems like a lot of work though, have fun with it!

galleon · 01/15/2012, 05:36 PM

mesh, the Porites is encrusting the front side of a big piece of LR, along with the two branches, is plenty for a 20 gallon. One of the reasons I have no mechanical filtration right now is I'm curious to see how things develop with nothing to physically remove particulates/food. I reserve the right to change my mind at any time!

meshwheel · 01/15/2012, 06:05 PM

galleon,
I gotcha! Well that's good the Porites is doing well. Sounds like your in experimental mode. That's how we all learn! Keep us posted and keep the pics coming. I would love to see how growth turns out on the frags.

galleon · 01/15/2012, 06:08 PM

Yup. I have a lot of experience from back in the day doing larger SPS system. I've started keeping them in 99, and was on 6 year hiatus. I got interested again, but this is the first time I've ever kept a nano.

galleon · 01/15/2012, 11:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Piper27

Wow the title to this thread is amazing! Seems like a lot of work though, have fun with it!

I am definitely having fun with it! I haven't kept corals in forever.

allsps40 · 01/16/2012, 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by galleon

allsps, tank volume/height is irrelevant. A 400 watt will work just fine. Lots of acros do just fine at the top of larger tanks lit by 400 watt bulbs. There will be photoperiod based acclimation to the intensity. I already had the bulb, fixture and ballast.

Ok do as you please, you will bleach corals out especially with a 6500k bulb and have light spilling over the tank. It is just over kill, a 250w will do much better IME.
Oh and yeah you need more live rock for sure. That one little twig you have in there is not going to be enough bio-filtration. Seems like you have a lot to learn.

galleon · 01/16/2012, 10:16 AM

allsps, the Porites has been in there for 2 months, has actually colored up (it was very bleached out when I bought it, under Ecoxotic cannons) under the 400 watt, and has grown nicely.

But I greatly appreciate you bringing all your negativity and condescension to my fun thread.

Here is the Porites at the LFS where it was just "worm rock". Compare to the video.

Thales · 01/16/2012, 10:38 AM

Galleon, let me know when you are ready for frags...next week?

01/12/2012, 01:41 PM	#1
galleon Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 1,003	Olasana Lagoon: High Energy SPS Nano Build Thread I wanted to do an extreme, Acropora-dominated nano... Tank: 20 gallon long Lighting: 400 watt horizontal Iwasaki 6500k Circulation: Vortech mp10, 2nd harmonic wave during the day, long pulse surge at night, both at 100% Control and Monitoring: Neptune Apex Lite Top Off: Single float switch Supplementation: Saturated kalkwasser top off only Mechanical/Physical Filtration: Siphoning/dilution by water changes Minimal live rock, only a few pieces of branch rock The rock is old and causing a cycle at the moment.

01/12/2012, 03:49 PM	#2
rolodex1 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Clearwater, FL Posts: 1,297	Go for it! I'd tag along for this one....... __________________ Shawn M. Current Tank Info: 125G SPS, Aqualight Pro 3 X 250w MH 4 X 96w Actinic, 1/3HP, Blue Line 55 & Blue Line 20, Phosban 150, 18w Turbo Twist UV, RS 180, (1) Tunze 6045, MP40W

01/12/2012, 09:09 PM	#3
allsps40 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Arizona Posts: 4,627	For a 20L a 400w is over kill, you will need to mount it up high to keep from bleaching corals. The 20L is a shallow tank a 250w with a good reflector will be a better choice or a good T5 unit. Add in a sump for equipment and add volume which is always good for sps, a dosing method like 2 part pumps or kalk and a good skimmer also a must for sps. __________________ __________ Current Tank Info: Past reef tanks: 20H softy, 29G mixed reef, 55G mixed reef, 40B sps dominant mixed reef and 75G sps dominant mixed reef. No tank currently

01/12/2012, 09:17 PM	#4
allsps40 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Arizona Posts: 4,627	For a 20L a 400w is over kill, you will need to mount it up high to keep from bleaching corals. The 20L is a shallow tank a 250w with a good reflector will be a better choice or a good T5 unit. Add in a sump for equipment and add volume which is always good for sps, a dosing method like 2 part pumps or kalk and a good skimmer also a must for sps. __________________ __________ Current Tank Info: Past reef tanks: 20H softy, 29G mixed reef, 55G mixed reef, 40B sps dominant mixed reef and 75G sps dominant mixed reef. No tank currently

01/13/2012, 10:51 AM	#7
Chris Lakies Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Grand Blanc Michigan Posts: 1,446	How will u deal with the heat from the 400 watt? __________________ CL Current Tank Info: 50 breeder, 2 x XR15w pro (G4), 1 x MP40wQD, Apex JR, Ehiem-Jager 200 watt heater, Jabao DC6000 return, Reef Octo 150 elite SSS skimmer

01/13/2012, 08:41 AM	#5
galleon Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 1,003	allsps, tank volume/height is irrelevant. A 400 watt will work just fine. Lots of acros do just fine at the top of larger tanks lit by 400 watt bulbs. There will be photoperiod based acclimation to the intensity. I already had the bulb, fixture and ballast.

01/13/2012, 10:48 AM	#6
galleon Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 1,003	Cycle is finishing, water clearing up. Lots of suspended particulates and the Porites is loving it.

01/13/2012, 10:53 AM	#8
galleon Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 1,003	Chris, there's no canopy, it's open, tank never gets above 80. The Vortech puts almost no heat into the tank.

01/13/2012, 02:26 PM	#9
karsseboom Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Posts: 2,183	My biggest concern is heat also. It should be fine though if you can keep the heat down, your corals should super growing under that much light and color up nice.

01/13/2012, 02:39 PM	#10
sjfishguy Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Delray Beach, FL Posts: 2,212	That's all the rock you are using? __________________ Rich nanoTOTM May '08 29 years saltwater, 19 years reefs Current Tank Info: 65 mixed reef

01/15/2012, 12:50 PM	#11
galleon Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 1,003	Put a few boring small brown frags in. Also added a co-current skimmer made from PVC.

01/15/2012, 01:09 PM	#12
meshwheel Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Posts: 1,430	You need more rock for a stable system. Be VERY careful how quickly you proceed. Heat will be a issue unless the house is cooled by AC. Even then, you may have to add a fan. A 400 watter is way overkill and a waste in my opinion.

01/15/2012, 01:35 PM	#13
galleon Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 1,003

01/15/2012, 01:49 PM	#14
MammothReefer Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Mammoth Lakes, CA Posts: 3,442	Never mind the 400w.. a 400w with a 6500k bulb over a 20L. That's as bright as you can get. How long are you keeping the lights on for, what's the plan for the tank colour up cheap brown outs? __________________ Reefin @ 8298' Current Tank Info: 105 Peninsula

01/15/2012, 02:45 PM	#16
smsreefer Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Trussville,Al Posts: 329	Love it ! I would not think you will need to any more corals though, those will be "wall to wall" in 6 mo. under the Iwasaki .LOL ! ...waiting on the 6 mo. pic.. Have fun, enjoy.

01/15/2012, 05:20 PM	#17
meshwheel Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Posts: 1,430	Those frags would have a much better chance at survival with more live rock in the tank. More live rock= more food! My tank has plankton swarms every night after the lights go out. They are a great food source and a sign of a healthy ecosystem......

01/15/2012, 05:31 PM	#18
Piper27 I love bengals Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Manassas Virginia Posts: 2,512	Wow the title to this thread is amazing! Seems like a lot of work though, have fun with it!

01/15/2012, 05:36 PM	#19
galleon Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 1,003	mesh, the Porites is encrusting the front side of a big piece of LR, along with the two branches, is plenty for a 20 gallon. One of the reasons I have no mechanical filtration right now is I'm curious to see how things develop with nothing to physically remove particulates/food. I reserve the right to change my mind at any time!

01/15/2012, 06:05 PM	#20
meshwheel Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Posts: 1,430	galleon, I gotcha! Well that's good the Porites is doing well. Sounds like your in experimental mode. That's how we all learn! Keep us posted and keep the pics coming. I would love to see how growth turns out on the frags.

01/15/2012, 06:08 PM	#21
galleon Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 1,003	Yup. I have a lot of experience from back in the day doing larger SPS system. I've started keeping them in 99, and was on 6 year hiatus. I got interested again, but this is the first time I've ever kept a nano.

01/16/2012, 10:16 AM	#24
galleon Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 1,003	allsps, the Porites has been in there for 2 months, has actually colored up (it was very bleached out when I bought it, under Ecoxotic cannons) under the 400 watt, and has grown nicely. But I greatly appreciate you bringing all your negativity and condescension to my fun thread. Here is the Porites at the LFS where it was just "worm rock". Compare to the video.

01/16/2012, 10:38 AM	#25
Thales Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: bay area Posts: 3,808	Galleon, let me know when you are ready for frags...next week? __________________ The reefer formally known as Lefty Ink is the way; the way is ink. Current Tank Info: 150 mixed reef with a 180 remote sump • 250 gallon fish breeding system • 200 gallon cephalopod breeding system • 212,000 gallon reef tank at work

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