cloudy water help

['06Siguy]

Originally posted by tmz
This is good advice. The ro or ro/di is a key component. if you need help with figuring it out, there are many here who can help and a number of sponsors to RC such as the Filter Guys who can supply what you need.

Yeah, I'd really like to get this thing hooked up. It didn't come with any literature or instuctions, and I have no previous expierience with them..so I'm at a loss as to what connects to what, and the valves do what? Any way, here's a quick photo of the unit as it sits.

[Aquarist007]

Originally posted by '06Siguy
Calccium, strontium and 15 trace elements.

if your tank is only two months old and you are doing water changes every two weeks you don't need to be adding strontium and trace elements to your tank--its just a waste of money.

I'm not trying to be negative here, but basic maintenance costs can add up in this hobby.
Eventually you will need to be concerned with alkalinity, calcium and magnesium---when you start adding alot of corals but if you do your water changes you don't need to worry about all the stuff that's out there for adding trace elements ect.


but to stay on topic that would not have caused the algae bloom--I still believe it is phosphates from not using r/o water

['06Siguy]

So I spent an hour or so researching this RO/DI unit. I got it all figured out as to how to install/plumb it. I went to the hardware store and got everything I needed. I was pretty excited, but after I opened the membrane on top of the unit, I noticed there was nothing inside. So I'm assuming I need a new one. I just wanna make sure I'm buying the right thing, becaude I not 100% sure about it. Would this be what goes inside the white tube thing on top of the unit... http://theh2oguru.zoovy.com/product/TW301812-150

Also, would you all recommend a refillable DI cartridge? How hard is it to refill? What is involved?

Thanks, and sorry for the noobish ?'s

[Aquarist007]

that is a really nice unit. Did you notice the installation instructions on that web site:

http://static.zoovy.com/merchant/the...tion_guide.pdf

['06Siguy]

Originally posted by capn_hylinur
that is a really nice unit. Did you notice the installation instructions on that web site:

http://static.zoovy.com/merchant/the...tion_guide.pdf

Yes, that's where I learned how to install. I still don't know if that membrane is the right thing I need.

['06Siguy]

double post

[tmz]

First on the uv. Cap,n and I have different viewpoints on there use and value. I do follow and recomend rigorus qt protocols. Even so there are nasties that can slip in or linger from earlier days. I have over 40 fish in my 500g system and appreciate the quasi safety net of the sterlizers at least for now. They don't kill pods but they do kill some phytoplankton which feeds the pods. On the other hand excess phyto can lead to nutrient problems and a dirty tank. I maintain refugia and use the sterlizers directly on the tanks where the fish are. I could dose phyto supplements but have not had a need . I get good growth and have a visible pod popualtion and phyto.. Enough at least for longterm health for a number of filter feeders and a Clam. Primarily the sterlizers kill algae including dinoflagellate algae (one of which is velvet) and bacteria some of which can be harmful to corals or fish. If large enough and a slow enough flow is used they can have an effect on other parasites as well. Holisticly speaking , I think they fit since reefs get a good dose of uv radiation from the tropical sun. I think they help in aquaria where parasites and pathenogens can become quite concentrated as opposed to the open ocean where they are likely to be spread thinly.

I agree that with a relatively new tank you should stop dosing. Focus on studying reef chemistry and testing untill you are sure of the need or lack thereof for supplements in your system. It is very likely that the smoke you see is precipitant (calcium carbonate ) from the bui d up of the supplement you are using. Remember your salt mix contains many "trace elements" in amounts far in excess of natural seawater . If yuo wan't to dose and understand reef chemistry, I recommend the articles at the begging of the reef chemistry forum by Randy Homes Farely. They are difficult and I had to read them several times and still reread sections but it's worht the effort.

['06Siguy]

Thanks for the input. I'm going to order that membrane and filters now. I hope it's what I need. Here's how the install turned out...

[tmz]

What size mebrane was in the unit. There is a small part that goes in the membrane holder called a flow restrictor. It needs to be sized to the membrane you chosse to use. 150per day is very large volume membrane. You might be better off with a 75 or so.Your vendor ought to be able to advise you about the flow restrictor and mebrane size. if not try the Filter Guys on the sponsors forum.

[Aquarist007]

Originally posted by tmz
First on the uv. Cap,n and I have different viewpoints on there use and value. I do follow and recomend rigorus qt protocols. Even so there are nasties that can slip in or linger from earlier days. I have over 40 fish in my 500g system and appreciate the quasi safety net of the sterlizers at least for now. They don't kill pods but they do kill some phytoplankton which feeds the pods. On the other hand excess phyto can lead to nutrient problems and a dirty tank. I maintain refugia and use the sterlizers directly on the tanks where the fish are. I could dose phyto supplements but have not had a need . I get good growth and have a visible pod popualtion and phyto.. Enough at least for longterm health for a number of filter feeders and a Clam. Primarily the sterlizers kill algae including dinoflagellate algae (one of which is velvet) and bacteria some of which can be harmful to corals or fish. If large enough and a slow enough flow is used they can have an effect on other parasites as well. Holisticly speaking , I think they fit since reefs get a good dose of uv radiation from the tropical sun. I think they help in aquaria where parasites and pathenogens can become quite concentrated as opposed to the open ocean where they are likely to be spread thinly.

I agree that with a relatively new tank you should stop dosing. Focus on studying reef chemistry and testing untill you are sure of the need or lack thereof for supplements in your system. It is very likely that the smoke you see is precipitant (calcium carbonate ) from the bui d up of the supplement you are using. Remember your salt mix contains many "trace elements" in amounts far in excess of natural seawater . If yuo wan't to dose and understand reef chemistry, I recommend the articles at the begging of the reef chemistry forum by Randy Homes Farely. They are difficult and I had to read them several times and still reread sections but it's worht the effort.

actually we represent the two differing viewpoints there are about uv sterilizers.

['06Siguy]

Originally posted by tmz
What size mebrane was in the unit. There is a small part that goes in the membrane holder called a flow restrictor. It needs to be sized to the membrane you chosse to use. 150per day is very large volume membrane. You might be better off with a 75 or so.Your vendor ought to be able to advise you about the flow restrictor and mebrane size. if not try the Filter Guys on the sponsors forum.

the new 150 GPD membrain comes with a new flow restrictor. You said it goes in the membrane? huh, I guess I'll figure that out when it comes. thanks for the info.

['06Siguy]

Also, when hooking up the RODI, was I supposed to bypass the water softerner. Cuz I didn't... I would assume the softener would only help, but I'm not sure.

['06Siguy]

^^ Nobody knows?

[tmz]

I'm not sure. I think the water softener would lower ph and deliver more acidic water. I would post this question on the Lighting Filtration and Other Equipment Forum.