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03/22/2018, 01:45 PM | #1 |
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Test Kits
My tank currently is just a fish only tank so the API Master Saltwater test kit has been sufficient. But as I get into anenomes and corals what test kits are required and what are the best manufactures?
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03/22/2018, 01:54 PM | #2 |
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There is really nothing wrong with the API "Reef Master" Test kit as you start needing to test cal/alk..
API gets a bad rap.. In general they are easy to used and fairly reliable.. But beyond that the common recommendations for alternatives are Red Sea Salifert Hanna Those would likely be the top 3 "recommended as an improvement over API" test kits..
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03/22/2018, 03:39 PM | #3 |
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You will want to test for:
Salinity, Alk, Ca, (arguably) Mg, and probably nitrate and phosphate. Most folks use a refractometer for salinity. It needs to be properly calibrated and/or tested against a standard. I really like my API for Ca and alk. Other folks recommend the three that mcgyvr listed. Your choices are limited for Mg. Some kind of colorimeter (like a hanna checker) is best for PO4 and NO3, since color comparison type tests can be difficult to determine values.
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Pat Current Tank Info: 125 in-wall , 40b sump. 6 bulb T5. ASM G2 skimmer. LPS and leathers |
03/22/2018, 04:05 PM | #4 |
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The above and maybe consider down the road...
While a minor element, Softies like, leathers, gorgonians, and shrimps like iodide at .03-.06 iodide has a secondary function and while weak, is a disinfectant. Some say enhances colours, but I'm not sure about that, helps shrimps molt. If you add Stoney corals and or clams, strontium additive is helpful. Sounds a lot sometimes, but "on-point" consistent water is a major key in this hobby. |
03/23/2018, 01:59 AM | #5 |
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It depends on what kind of corals you intend to keep. If you’re going to keep nems and softies, I wouldn’t bother with calc/alk/mag but you’ll probably want to test nitrates and phosphates. Iodine is important to soft corals but if you’re doing regular water changes, I wouldn’t even bother testing it, unless you think there’s a problem. For testing nitrates and phosphates, Salifreit, Hanna colorimeters, Nyos or Redsea are all fine. For testing calc/alk/mag (if you’re keeping Stoney corals), I’ve used all of the above except Nyos. I honestly prefer Salifreit for those. They’re pretty cheap and easy to use. I have Hanna colorometers for alk/calc/phosphates and I do use them occasionally to cross check things, but I’m not a big fan. They’re just as accurate, but adding the little packet of powder to the vial annoys the hell outta me. The Nyos kit for phosphate could be better. It’s a bit hard to read at low range (under .1ppm). Oh yeah, if you do go for the colorometer for phosphates, get the low range PHOSPHORUS meter. It’s a lot more accurate but you do have to convert phosphorus to phosphates (it’s not that hard).
Oh yes, if you do keep SPS coral at some point, you might consider testing for potassium, especially if you start carbon dosing. Finally, if you get really serious about wanting to know what’s in your water, you can look into ICP water tests which requires you to send water samples to a lab. They test for all kinds of things and there are several companies doing it thought Triton was the first I heard about. They give you test results and let you know if anything is low or high. I’ve yet to get one done (they’re around $50) but may once my recent build matures a bit. I know it probably seems overwhelming, but just start out testing nitrate and phosphates and try your hand at keeping some softies and LPS. Do regular water changes and you’ll be fine. Softies aren’t going to use any calc/alk/mag and you’d have to have a lot of LPS to need to worry about calc/alk. Just my 2¢.
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03/23/2018, 08:15 PM | #6 |
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Red sea.
Hands down!!
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03/24/2018, 11:01 AM | #7 |
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Agreed. This guy did a comparison between Red Sea and API and there were multiple short comings on the API.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qtrec5nh8xo&t=144s |
03/28/2018, 03:17 PM | #8 |
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I have been using RedSea and Hanna for all my testing. I use a magnetic stirrer to make it easier to test vs using the titration tool provided by the redsea kits.
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03/29/2018, 08:23 AM | #9 | |
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Quote:
That guy is a moron, and his 4 criticisms are nonsensical. 1. Yes you can dip the test tube in the tank to get a sample. You aren't contaminating your tank, since you rinsed out the tube after last test. And, like any time you sample, triple rinse the container with the sample you are taking. There won't be residual from the last sample. 2. Fill the tube to the line. It's not hard. Use a transfer pipette if you want. Good grief. 3. My lids don't leak. 4. That's what a color comparison kit is. Yikes....
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03/30/2018, 09:33 AM | #10 |
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