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08/18/2019, 06:18 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Canada
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My City water quality report
Hi All, I am a newbie and am setting up a 125G reef tank. I have read through this forum and understand that RODI water is vital. But just for discussion sake here is my city water report. Say I use a water conditioner to remove the chloramines, would this water be OK for the initial setup. I do plan to use distilled water for subsequent regular top-off maintenance, as I have access to DI water at my work place but only 2 gallons at a time.
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08/18/2019, 11:42 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: NW Indiana Valparaiso
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Everything over time is accumulative that you add that does not get used up by the fish or corals or Coralline algae. This is why city water isn't recommended has too many contaminants, its not just a chlorine issue or else one could just add a neutralizer for that.
Id start with RODI & stick with it, i use distilled water myself for top offs that idea i like myself adds nothing to the tank but what evaporated.
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Montipora Digitas, Cyphastrea, Blastos, different Leptoseris, Green Stylo, GSP, gorgonions, Ricordea mushrooms, psammocoras, Birdsnest coral, Clownfish, Watchman goby, Royal gamma. Current Tank Info: Nano Reef tank |
08/18/2019, 12:32 PM | #3 |
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Location: Westminster, CO
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Chloramines are a combination of ammonia and chlorine. Prime will break the bond between the two, neutralize the chlorine, and convert the ammonia to from free to bound. The ammonia will still remain and unless something can uptake it, it will remain until the tank can process it into nitrates.
I would advise against using tap in this instance. Also, if you do purchase an RODI, you will need to take extra steps regarding chloramines. Standard units are inadequate.
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Hobby Experience: 9200ish gallons, 26 skimmers, and a handful of Kent Scrapers. Current Tank: Vortech Powered 600G SPS Tank w/ 100gal frag tank & 100g Sump. RK2-RK10 Skimmer. ReefAngel. Radium 20k. |
08/18/2019, 12:36 PM | #4 |
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Location: Ontario, Canada
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I don't see phosphates on the chart and that one builds and Feeds GHA.
Also some metals, they will accumulate as well. That's a sizable tank. Since water quality is paramount, I take no risks by removing everything to 0 TDS, and putting back only what I want. Set up and cycling is a critical step, you can use conditioned tap water but you'll likely pay later in cleaning up those same organics you did not remove from the water. Having access to 0 TDS water is an important consideration. For $100, cheapest insurance ever. Last edited by Uncle99; 08/18/2019 at 12:47 PM. |
08/18/2019, 03:43 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Mountain View, CA, USA
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The ammonia from the chloramine would be a very minor nutrient addition to the tank. The primary issue is what might be in the water, either currently or in the future, that is toxic. Cities sometimes treat water with anti-corrosion chemicals, including zinc, I believe, that can be very toxic. Also, copper can leach from the plumbing in your house.
All that said, it's reasonably likely that your tank will be okay, at least for a while, with tap water. Still, I chose to use RO/DI out of general caution. I know of successful tanks that are run with tap water, but we've also had reports of tanks that were fine until the city ran some zinc in the system, and killed everything.
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Jonathan Bertoni |
08/31/2019, 07:50 AM | #6 |
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Location: Canada
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Thanks all for the feedback. Got an Aquatic Life buddy RODI system today.
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08/31/2019, 08:07 AM | #7 |
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Ontario, Canada
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Good decision
I have same two years now. I still use 1ml per 10 gallons prime after DI stage. |
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