Leveling a tank.

[Sacohen]

I built a stand for my 90 gallon tank and I followed RocketEngineers plans.


I apparently had the stand rack a bit and I really don’t have the funds to rebuild it.
So my question is how can I level the tank?
I have leveled the stand using composite shims, but the stand top is off too.

I need to keep the tank from rocking.






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[ReefkeeperZ]

probably the best fix would be to plane down the stand top to flat. buy or borrow a powerplaner (you can buy a cheap one for like 30-40$). shim the bottom of the stand so it wont move. then place the tank on the stand and scribe your marks to know how far to plane the top down to. then plane it flat. any remaining inconsistencies can be eliminated by placing foam board insulation on the stand top before placeing the tank on it and filling it.

[ReefkeeperZ]

or you can shim all the way around the tank where needed with hardwood shims, and use a piece of trim to hid the shim work.

or you can cut furring strips and glue them to the top of the stand to make it flat.

you have several options.

[ClownNut]

put in 1/2" plywood top then 1/2" pink insulation foam.

[neilp2006]

Don’t do foam with a framed tank.


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[hijinks]

So one reason it moves is because framing lumber isn't perfectly straight. It might look straight but it moves over time. You can find the high spot and with a hand plane level it out.

Or add shims where it isn't touching to make sure the top is level

[ClownNut]

Originally Posted by neilp2006

Don’t do foam with a framed tank.


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reason?

[billdogg]

Shims between the tank and stand will create pressure points that will almost certainly cause the tank to fail.

What I would do is get a piece of 3/4" plywood to put on top of the stand and them shim under it until it is level. Use as many shims as possible around the perimeter and then screw the plywood to the stand. NO FOAM under your tank! It has the possibility of compressing and putting pressure on the bottom panel which can then cause a seam failure.

[neilp2006]

Originally Posted by ClownNut

reason?

Billdog explained it perfectly. As have 100’s of other threads. The foam can compress unevenly, then put pressure on the underside of the bottom pane. This can bend the bottom pane enough that the seams can fail.


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[Sacohen]

Originally Posted by ClownNut

reason?

The manufacturer does not recommend it.
I’ve read this before.
With a framed the only areas that need the support is the frame.
Putting plywood or foam underneath the entire tank is not suggested.


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[ClownNut]

make no sense, the frame will put 1/2" between the foam and the bottom panel.
if only plywood without foam that will create unsupported area under the frame, the foam will ensure the frame is fully supported all around.

[neilp2006]

Originally Posted by ClownNut

make no sense, the frame will put 1/2" between the foam and the bottom panel.
if only plywood without foam that will create unsupported area under the frame, the foam will ensure the frame is fully supported all around.

Tank manufacturers literally tell you not to use foam under a framed tank. In fact, the only areas under a framed tank that NEED supporting is the corners- small voids (1/16 inch or so) under the side rails are ok.

This info is from the many manufacturers. You can do whatever you choose to do


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[Windy2]

There are several ways to level the tank...My favorite is to shim it level and fill the voids around the bottom with hot glue. I will be very steady and well supported. Construction adhesive or regular caulk will work as well.

[ClownNut]

Originally Posted by neilp2006

Tank manufacturers literally tell you not to use foam under a framed tank. In fact, the only areas under a framed tank that NEED supporting is the corners- small voids (1/16 inch or so) under the side rails are ok.

This info is from the many manufacturers. You can do whatever you choose to do


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well, I want to know the reason behind the no foam thing. i want to learn the reason instead just take their words for it. i am not trying to win the argument but wanting to understand the why.
i did talk to AGA engineer years ago, it's true you can support the tank up with just support 4 corners.
my 185 was on foam for 5 years before i took it down and current still up and running at friend's place. my 300 also sitting on a same setup.
all the foam will do is even out the uneven spots, as i see it that's a good thing.

[ClownNut]

Originally Posted by billdogg

Shims between the tank and stand will create pressure points that will almost certainly cause the tank to fail.

What I would do is get a piece of 3/4" plywood to put on top of the stand and them shim under it until it is level. Use as many shims as possible around the perimeter and then screw the plywood to the stand. NO FOAM under your tank! It has the possibility of compressing and putting pressure on the bottom panel which can then cause a seam failure.

the 4 sides are sitting on the bottom panel, and the 4 sides of the bottom panel are sitting on the frame and the frame is sitting on the foam. how will pressure to put on the bottom panel that will cause seam failure? if anything, the bottom panel will break if any pressure points cause by concave down spots. how will the seam will fail before the glass break?
in any case, the tank should be in a better spot with the foam than without if those spots exist.

[davocean]

Billdogg, explained perfectly.

As to the question of foam, it's a matter of too thick foam will cause reverse pressure on tank bottom and not the way it is designed.

Having said that, many of us have used foam under trimmed tanks w/out issues, thin foam, but it really does not do much for a trimmed tank and if the manufacturer advises against it then why use it.

Thin foam is really for trimless tanks just as a buffer between glass and stand.

I also would just add 3/4" ply and no thinner, and yeah, lots of shims

It's not optimal of course, but in your situation should getter done

[ClownNut]

Originally Posted by davocean

As to the question of foam, it's a matter of too thick foam will cause reverse pressure on tank bottom and not the way it is designed.

how? you mean the foam act as an incompressible material? any chance you can draw a diagram?

[davocean]

No it's a pretty simple concept though, if you are using inch thick foam and there is half inch of space under that trim to bottom glass panel you have that foam pushing upwards, and while that may not sound like much, it just simply does not allow the bottom panel to rest as it was designed.

There have been failures from this, and it is against manufacturer recommendations and voids warranty

[ClownNut]

Originally Posted by davocean

No it's a pretty simple concept though, if you are using inch thick foam and there is half inch of space under that trim to bottom glass panel you have that foam pushing upwards, and while that may not sound like much, it just simply does not allow the bottom panel to rest as it was designed.

There have been failures from this, and it is against manufacturer recommendations and voids warranty

are you saying the tank sink into the foam 1/2" and that push the bottom panel up?

[davocean]

Yes basically, using those numbers as a general guideline to make a simple explanation.

Bottom line, if your tank is a half inch out, you could add 20 sheets of foam, and it will still be a half inch out, just 20 sheets higher, it's not going to just magically compress or support where you want to make any corrections.

Foam may help ride over very minor deviations or create a buffer, but that's it.

[ClownNut]

Originally Posted by davocean

Yes basically, using those numbers as a general guideline to make a simple explanation.

Bottom line, if your tank is a half inch out, you could add 20 sheets of foam, and it will still be a half inch out, just 20 sheets higher, it's not going to just magically compress or support where you want to make any corrections.

Foam may help ride over very minor deviations or create a buffer, but that's it.

we are not on the same page.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Co...-36L/100320356
i had a 185 and 300 sitting on this foam and at most it compressed about 1/8"(more than 1/16 and less than 1/8" no way the foam will ever touch the bottom panel.
well, if you have 1/2" off set, you need to pay someone to buid the stand for you, building a stand its not your thing.

[davocean]

I am a contractor and cabinet builder for many years now, very familiar w the products and how they function.

The half inch I used was just an example number to point out that the level does not change just by adding foam.

[ClownNut]

Originally Posted by davocean

I am a contractor and cabinet builder for many years now, very familiar w the products and how they function.

The half inch I used was just an example number to point out that the level does not change just by adding foam.

if you know the product well, how do you come up with the idea it pushed the bottom panel??

once you have the tank fully supported, no longer rocking, just matter of shimming the stand.

[davocean]

Oh good lord this is my last attempt trying to explain how if foam too thick used can push a tank bottom, or how foam does not have the ability to discriminate where it should support or where it should compress

[ClownNut]

Originally Posted by davocean

Oh good lord this is my last attempt trying to explain how if foam too thick used can push a tank bottom, or how foam does not have the ability to discriminate where it should support or where it should compress

lol, you can have a 1/2" all the way up to 100000000000000000000', the foam will not have contact to the bottom panel of a framed tank ever.
the foam is not incompressible material. it will support the full frame and it will compress where it should(as long as the "hump"/concave down spot is not too crazy compare to the thickness of the foam)