I've about had it w/ Cor20 + Reefer250

[2000se]

I have had this reefer250 for 4 years now and have never been able to get the flow settled. It is either bubbling down the emergency or not holding the siphon. I have tried several pumps and have yet to get it right. I did a total reboot and decided to try a Cor20 pump with my apex on it. Same thing.

It will run fine for 2 weeks and then all of sudden lose the siphon. Or all of sudden look like it is pushing everything down the e-drain. Just last night, wife woke me and said the aquarium is making a funny sound. Went in there and sure enough, the pump wasn't keeping up and siphon wasn't holding. I actually had to raise the output of the Cor20 from 33% to 44% to get it to stop. It has been running fine for for the last 10 hours at the same level in the overflow as it was for 2 weeks prior but this time the output of the pump is at 44% when ealeier it was only 33%. I have no clue. It looks like the RPM is now at 2500 where earlier it was at 2300. I have even gone so far as to buy a new overflow valve assembly for the reefer thinking my original one was bad..no such luck. I feel like chucking everything on the floor (minus the water of course )

Why would the water level, or water ever it is, not remain constant? Any ideas? There is no algea build up or anything. This tank has only been running since the reboot for 2 months.

[ReefWreak]

I think you've been going at this all wrong.

If you replaced the overflow valve assembly with the reefer one, then that was your problem. The reefer drain valves are known to be very finnicky. I have a Reefer 450, and it definitely has the constant fluctuation problem. I imagine it's based on detritus being trapped, or the barometric pressure, or something strange, but mine does fluctuate, as does everyone else's that I know who has a reefer tank.

I think this is less of a problem when people have larger diameter drain pipes in marineland or DIY setups, but the reefer series are known for being finnicky.

This can be somewhat addressed if you replace the Red Sea Reefer valve assembly with a gate-valve assembly, as I've heard it just isn't nearly as sensitive to clogging as the standard assembly. I'm not sure whether your valve replacement was with a new stock valve, or if it was with the gate valve, but I imagine you tried a new Red Sea crappy valve.

Honestly, I just live with it (as does everyone else who I know who has an RSR). You adjust the valve every few days, and move on. Annoying, for sure, but it's what we're stuck with. It shouldn't be that much of an annoyance unless it's in a bedroom. Also, I find it to be quieter (and you could muffle it even more so to make it quieter with filter batting or something else in the overflow box) if you are in too-low of flow, versus too high of flow with the overflow drain going in and out.

[LQT]

Have you tried running your system with an AC pump? In my reading, it seems that the flow from DC pumps will often fluctuate randomly. I’ve seen this myself with the only DC pump I own, a Skimz Quiet Pro, that is feeding my chiller. Every so often, it ramps up and down without any input from me.

[2000se]

Ok. Lots of good suggestions thank you! I’m not sure which one to try first. Both will cost nearly equally. Buying all the new overflow fittings and gate valve vs good AC pump. Let me see what happens. I’ll report back. Might be selling a brand new Cor20 if the AC pump works better.

[mcgyvr]

If you are looking for opinions on a direction Id replace plumbing and keep the pump

[2000se]

humm..the thought of having to redo all this after just resetting is a bummer. Thanks mcgyvr

[bshow24]

It has nothing to do with the pump. AC or DC, it's going to be the same result. It has to do with RSR Plumbing. If you were to replace it with your own, as has been mentioned multiple times, it will likely fix.

I looked into this for my 525, but I decided to hold off on trying to do any plumbing adjustments and deal with the fluctuation. I make daily adjustments whenever I'm feeding.

[2000se]

It just makes no sense to me how this thing is sooo sensitive. You'd think that after getting into a steady state it would just run..It has to be the design of that valve assembly. When you take it apart there is a "V" in the piping under the valve. Wonder if it is the valve or that "V"?..Oh well. I'll keep tinkering with it I guess.

[smatter]

Mine goes for extended periods before requiring adjustment. I occasionally open it wide to flush it out. I find that it requires less adjustment when I run the flow higher than the recommended flow rate. It helps keep air/detritus from accumulating in there.

[BrettDS]

Are you running a herbie style drain with just a siphon and an emergency or a bean animal with a siphon, a trickle and an emergency? The herbie drains can be very hard to tune because it’s difficult to keep the siphon perfectly turned and that’s why the bean animal adds a third drain. If you have the option to switch to a bean animal style drain you might find it easier to tune as it can handle small fluctuations better.

[2000se]

Thank you for the advice Brett. I wasn't aware the bean was easier to tune .. I'm still playing by ear at this point. Haven't decided what action to take, if any...sigh..