Meanwell LDD driver: for those who want to dim to 0 using Arduino - Page 2

Jamesjkl · 10/19/2012, 04:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pwreef

If you do not connect anything to the driver DIM pin it will run at 100%. If you use a controller, then it does not matter. Just remember to dim LEDs below their max values.

When your power go out then comes back on the controller takes longer to boot than the outlet so your string needs to be protected or use the correct mA driver for you setup.

fetta · 10/19/2012, 06:46 PM

hazard, can't wait to see how it turns, and make sure to take lots of pics and start a build thread...............

pwreef · 10/19/2012, 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jamesjkl

When your power go out then comes back on the controller takes longer to boot than the outlet so your string needs to be protected or use the correct mA driver for you setup.

When my arduino is off, the light goes off probably because the DIM pin is grounded. There is a momentary flash when Arduino boots, then things normalize. Besides the cheap Chinese LEDs, everything else is fine at 1A. But everyone is their own engineer for this of course.

Jamesjkl · 10/20/2012, 09:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pwreef

When my arduino is off, the light goes off probably because the DIM pin is grounded. There is a momentary flash when Arduino boots, then things normalize. Besides the cheap Chinese LEDs, everything else is fine at 1A. But everyone is their own engineer for this of course.

That is good to know as long as the dim pin is in use with no power its off even with a power failure?

pwreef · 10/20/2012, 01:48 PM

Sorry I don't know what you mean. When there is a power failure, everything is off. :-)

Jamesjkl · 10/20/2012, 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pwreef

Sorry I don't know what you mean. When there is a power failure, everything is off. :-)

yes but the controller doesnt power up sa fast as the lights what happens wben you unplug the controller? does the light go out?

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pwreef · 10/21/2012, 06:35 AM

When there is power to the drivers and no power to the controller lights are off. It takes about 1 second for the controller to boot. During that time there is a flash that seems like momentarily LEDs go to full current probably while the code is loading and setting registers. I honestly don't think that it will harm them on the rare occasion that power failure occurs, but like I said everyone can design their fixture with different driver values if they wanted.

Jamesjkl · 10/21/2012, 03:04 PM

You're right I'm sure if it boots that fast and not too over power. They are very inexpensive and easily controllable The on off and wide dimming range is super. More drivers giving more controll of more colors

and only one power supply to plug in and no parallel strings to worry about

mattclark82 · 10/22/2012, 03:52 PM

Does anyone have a reputable source for the wired versions at this time?

Dave Thebrewguy · 10/22/2012, 05:08 PM

Heck, at this point I'd settle for a less-than-reputable source. These things are just hard to find.

bhazard451 · 10/22/2012, 05:17 PM

There's like a 10 week wait on the wired ones. I got a bunch in today of wired/wireless and these things are tiny... like an inch big. Allows so much more room in the fixture.

fetta · 10/22/2012, 05:32 PM

thought i looked at the website someone had posted on here, the octo one. thought they showed a bunch on there. unless i was looking at the wrong thing

Dave Thebrewguy · 10/22/2012, 06:06 PM

For anyone who has one. Will they fit on a breadboard?
Edit. Anyone have mounting ideas for the wired ones?

bhazard451 · 10/23/2012, 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave Thebrewguy

For anyone who has one. Will they fit on a breadboard?
Edit. Anyone have mounting ideas for the wired ones?

I have a central location shelf in the middle of my fixture where the drivers will be located. They are so small, that I will just use 3M double sided mounting tape to hold it down. The driver will be on its side with the wires pointing to the back or sides of the fixture, unless I use a proto board.

mattclark82 · 10/23/2012, 08:15 PM

Looking at the spec sheet, and being a bit rusty from High School electronic tech, I see a pin for PWM dimming input, but my ELN has a PWM+ and PWM- hooked into my controller. With the LDD in use, not aure what to do with my other PWM lead from the controller.

Dave Thebrewguy · 10/24/2012, 03:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bhazard451

I have a central location shelf in the middle of my fixture where the drivers will be located. They are so small, that I will just use 3M double sided mounting tape to hold it down. The driver will be on its side with the wires pointing to the back or sides of the fixture, unless I use a proto board.

Proto board... what a good idea. Why didn't I think of that? I now have 7 drivers ordered!

pwreef · 10/24/2012, 07:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mattclark82

Looking at the spec sheet, and being a bit rusty from High School electronic tech, I see a pin for PWM dimming input, but my ELN has a PWM+ and PWM- hooked into my controller. With the LDD in use, not aure what to do with my other PWM lead from the controller.

PWM- goes to Vin- , PWM+ goes to the DIM pin. This is common design practice not to create extra solder points.

bhazard451 · 10/24/2012, 07:52 AM

I cannot get over how small these drivers are. It would take about 12 of them to equal the size of 1 ELN-60-48D.

My 120 gallon freshwater gets drilled and converted to saltwater this weekend, and once it is up and running, I will start building my led fixture.

rkesling · 10/25/2012, 12:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bhazard451

I cannot get over how small these drivers are. It would take about 12 of them to equal the size of 1 ELN-60-48D.

My 120 gallon freshwater gets drilled and converted to saltwater this weekend, and once it is up and running, I will start building my led fixture.

When I opened my BIG box with all of the bubble wrap I found a few packages wrapped in foam up and some long rectangular clear tubes. First thought, they shipped me the wrong stuff. Opened the tubes up and out slides 10 of these LDD's in each tube. They are SOOOOO small.

Glad I got some already wired too because I may need a magnifying glass and someone with smaller fingers to add wires to the others

rrasco · 10/25/2012, 10:25 AM

Drivers are not that big...it's just a chip, this one just has the extra resistors and caps that are needed. It's a good find, but if you're building stuff yourself it's still cheaper to get something like a CAT4101 and build the circuit yourself. This is a great find though and I'm sure I'll use them at some point.

rrasco · 11/13/2012, 02:22 PM

Thanks for posting this last month, as I now have a use for these.

Just an FYI, Mouser will only price match with certain vendors: Digikey, Allied, and Newark. However, I just spoke to them on the phone and they did offer to drop the pricing to one price tier lower. They didn't have to do that, so I thought it was awfully nice. I always order Mouser anyways, they have never done me wrong and I get UPS ground next day from them.

Unfortunately they don't have the exact ones I want, but who drives LEDs at 100% anyways? 600mA is perfect for my application though so I won't complain.

dwolson2 · 11/13/2012, 02:25 PM

Is there any way to utilize the LDD drivers with a 0-10v signal from an apex?

peiloy3196 · 11/13/2012, 02:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dwolson2

Is there any way to utilize the LDD drivers with a 0-10v signal from an apex?

I have been wondering about this too. In me research I found Steve's Led Aquarium Controller Interface Harness. It is supposed to be able to convert 0-10v signals like that from the apex to pwm signals. One harness is supposed to be able to do up to four different channels. I have not tried it yet though and so have no idea if it works. I also saw when I was researching that you can have different pwm voltages, so I don't know if this harness is compatible with the LDD drivers. I read in the harness spec that it uses a 5v power source so I assume it outputs in that voltage. I am very new to pwm so don't know too much about it.

dwolson2 · 11/13/2012, 02:47 PM

I started a new thread instead of clogging up this one:http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...4#post20885474

chema · 11/14/2012, 07:21 AM

Do these drivers get very hot when in use? I mean, should they be in open air or may be placed in an enclosed area?

10/20/2012, 01:48 PM	#30
pwreef Registered Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: New York Posts: 585	Sorry I don't know what you mean. When there is a power failure, everything is off. :-) __________________ Since May 2011: OLD: 57G rimless NOW: ELOS 120, DIY LED using reefll.com 12-up boards

10/21/2012, 06:35 AM	#32
pwreef Registered Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: New York Posts: 585	When there is power to the drivers and no power to the controller lights are off. It takes about 1 second for the controller to boot. During that time there is a flash that seems like momentarily LEDs go to full current probably while the code is loading and setting registers. I honestly don't think that it will harm them on the rare occasion that power failure occurs, but like I said everyone can design their fixture with different driver values if they wanted. __________________ Since May 2011: OLD: 57G rimless NOW: ELOS 120, DIY LED using reefll.com 12-up boards

10/25/2012, 10:25 AM	#45
rrasco Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: South Texas Posts: 2,159	Drivers are not that big...it's just a chip, this one just has the extra resistors and caps that are needed. It's a good find, but if you're building stuff yourself it's still cheaper to get something like a CAT4101 and build the circuit yourself. This is a great find though and I'm sure I'll use them at some point. __________________ -You had me at PWM

11/13/2012, 02:22 PM	#46
rrasco Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: South Texas Posts: 2,159	Thanks for posting this last month, as I now have a use for these. Just an FYI, Mouser will only price match with certain vendors: Digikey, Allied, and Newark. However, I just spoke to them on the phone and they did offer to drop the pricing to one price tier lower. They didn't have to do that, so I thought it was awfully nice. I always order Mouser anyways, they have never done me wrong and I get UPS ground next day from them. Unfortunately they don't have the exact ones I want, but who drives LEDs at 100% anyways? 600mA is perfect for my application though so I won't complain. __________________ -You had me at PWM

11/13/2012, 02:25 PM	#47
dwolson2 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Rockledge Fl Posts: 1,348	Is there any way to utilize the LDD drivers with a 0-10v signal from an apex? __________________ 220 w/75 sump. 2 Kessil AP700s, 2- MP60, 2- MP40, 1-MP10(in sump/frag tank), Waveline DC 10000, Reef Octopus elite INT220, Radion G1(over sump/frag tank), Apex Wifi with a few extras Current Tank Info: 220 in progress

10/19/2012, 06:46 PM	#27
fetta Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Posts: 463	hazard, can't wait to see how it turns, and make sure to take lots of pics and start a build thread...............

10/21/2012, 03:04 PM	#33
Jamesjkl Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Posts: 82	You're right I'm sure if it boots that fast and not too over power. They are very inexpensive and easily controllable The on off and wide dimming range is super. More drivers giving more controll of more colors and only one power supply to plug in and no parallel strings to worry about

10/22/2012, 03:52 PM	#34
mattclark82 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Posts: 12	Does anyone have a reputable source for the wired versions at this time?

10/22/2012, 05:08 PM	#35
Dave Thebrewguy Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: NJ Posts: 489	Heck, at this point I'd settle for a less-than-reputable source. These things are just hard to find.

10/22/2012, 05:17 PM	#36
bhazard451 Registered Member. Join Date: Nov 2009 Posts: 1,900	There's like a 10 week wait on the wired ones. I got a bunch in today of wired/wireless and these things are tiny... like an inch big. Allows so much more room in the fixture.

10/22/2012, 05:32 PM	#37
fetta Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Posts: 463	thought i looked at the website someone had posted on here, the octo one. thought they showed a bunch on there. unless i was looking at the wrong thing

10/22/2012, 06:06 PM	#38
Dave Thebrewguy Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: NJ Posts: 489	For anyone who has one. Will they fit on a breadboard? Edit. Anyone have mounting ideas for the wired ones?

10/23/2012, 08:15 PM	#40
mattclark82 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Posts: 12	Looking at the spec sheet, and being a bit rusty from High School electronic tech, I see a pin for PWM dimming input, but my ELN has a PWM+ and PWM- hooked into my controller. With the LDD in use, not aure what to do with my other PWM lead from the controller.

10/24/2012, 07:52 AM	#43
bhazard451 Registered Member. Join Date: Nov 2009 Posts: 1,900	I cannot get over how small these drivers are. It would take about 12 of them to equal the size of 1 ELN-60-48D. My 120 gallon freshwater gets drilled and converted to saltwater this weekend, and once it is up and running, I will start building my led fixture.

11/13/2012, 02:47 PM	#49
dwolson2 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Rockledge Fl Posts: 1,348	I started a new thread instead of clogging up this one:http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...4#post20885474 __________________ 220 w/75 sump. 2 Kessil AP700s, 2- MP60, 2- MP40, 1-MP10(in sump/frag tank), Waveline DC 10000, Reef Octopus elite INT220, Radion G1(over sump/frag tank), Apex Wifi with a few extras Current Tank Info: 220 in progress

11/14/2012, 07:21 AM	#50
chema Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Spain Posts: 210	Do these drivers get very hot when in use? I mean, should they be in open air or may be placed in an enclosed area?