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03/12/2012, 07:36 AM | #551 |
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Can anyone recommend a setup for a 180 gallon long (72" x 24" x 24")
I just purchased the tank so its empty but when i have it setup I want to go LED I was not sure if the 120 led kit would work or would i need something more I plan to use the c channels Thanks in advance |
03/12/2012, 08:01 AM | #552 | |
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03/12/2012, 08:05 AM | #553 | |
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Erik |
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03/12/2012, 08:05 AM | #554 | |
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I was looking at the 60 Royal Blue + 60 10000K white Also what is your new plan? Thanks for the quick reply! |
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03/12/2012, 11:14 AM | #555 |
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what you are getting is what i got last time. I was not happy at all. Besides when you mix 10k with royal blue your tank will be purple. That was the thing i hated the most. My sons tank is still like that. Im changing out his too. The way im doing it is as follows
2:1 mix royal blue to white 45 k. I just completed a test fixture with this combo and i arranged them like the AI Sol with clusters of 3. What a difference. I may also add some red and cyan but not many and they wont have lenses. |
03/12/2012, 11:17 AM | #556 | |
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03/12/2012, 11:52 AM | #557 | |
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03/13/2012, 03:17 PM | #558 |
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is cona be interesting u see hove 45 k compare tu 10k in the setings
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03/13/2012, 05:20 PM | #559 | |
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03/13/2012, 05:47 PM | #560 |
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I just put together a fixture with 3 channels, 12 led on each channel, total 36 leds with maxwellen drivers.
My wattage meter is showing between 16 and 19 watts on each channel being used at full power....that's not 3 watts/led...actually less than 2 watts/led.... anyone else experience this ??? (http://www.aquastyleonline.com/produ...d12%29x3w.html) |
03/13/2012, 05:56 PM | #561 |
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Yup, I THINK that most of the LED's are rated at 1a current, which this driver doesn't run at. The driver itself is only pushing each LED at 680ma if I recall correctly, which comes out to right around 2 watts an LED. There's calculations which I could do but I'm exhausted, just got home from work and didn't even get a chance to look at blesk's fixture today
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BRB, Goldfish on fire How much deeper would the ocean really be if sponges didn't exist? Current Tank Info: 75 gallon mixed reef tank |
03/13/2012, 07:48 PM | #562 | |
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Felix Nice to meet you! Current Tank Info: 60 Gallon Cube |
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03/13/2012, 07:57 PM | #563 |
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That doesn't change how the 'ratings' are derived for the most part. Even at 700ma and 3.6volt you're not using 3w of power... A cree at 1200ma is using like 3.5w of power at that point. Another reason we use more bridgelux LED's compared to cree, yet still have the same energy useage (and I think much better spread most of the time)
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BRB, Goldfish on fire How much deeper would the ocean really be if sponges didn't exist? Current Tank Info: 75 gallon mixed reef tank |
03/13/2012, 09:03 PM | #564 |
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Most of the Chinese fixtures that use 3w Bridgelux or Epistar are all running at 2w.
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03/14/2012, 09:42 PM | #565 | |||
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And here's the math that I also should be too tired to remember but volts times amps equals watts. 0.7A(700ma) x 3.6volts = 2.52watts. and driven any higer I would not expect bridgelux to last very long. (I keep meaning to test this but just cant get myself to intentionaly burn one up) Even Cree are typicaly not driven at 3 watts. (with exception of the newer xpg and xml which are gross overkill if driven at full power, for all but the largest of tanks) Quote:
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03/14/2012, 09:48 PM | #566 | |
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03/15/2012, 02:12 PM | #567 |
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dread240
what hydor koralia's do you have the 110 version? Have you been able to get anything done in the fun category? |
03/15/2012, 11:29 PM | #568 |
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Dread, what do you think about electromechanical control of the maxwellen's
Arduino controlled steppers for the pots, and relays to kill the 120 VAC supply for each dimmer, or +dc out to turn each string off? Might be easier to implement than 100% electrical control. |
03/19/2012, 09:36 AM | #569 |
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Hey All,
Just hoping for a little input. In the midst of a 150G X-Tall(48x24x30tall) SPS dominated build. I was looking at 120 LED's total, 54 white(50-50 10k/6500k), 52 blue, 4 red, 4 UV and 6 actinic. Does this look to be about right for coloration(prefer blue weighted, 20k-ish) and PAR? Planning on ordering a number of extra optics in 45 and 80 so I can play around with spread as needed. |
03/19/2012, 09:58 AM | #570 |
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Double Post
Last edited by madlarkin; 03/19/2012 at 09:58 AM. Reason: double post. |
03/19/2012, 10:12 AM | #571 | |
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I used a 1:1 ratio of 4500k whites and royal blues, and when I'm running both the blues and whites at 100%, the tank is just plain white. With 10k whites, you'll probably be a tad more blue than my setup, but not close to 20k. To get a 20k-ish appearance with my setup, I need to run the blues at 100%, and the whites dimmed as far as the maxwellen drivers will go. I also suggest omitting the reds, and substituting deep red and turquoise if you want to hit the red peak. Red is an overpowering color. Combining deep red with turquoise will result in a white appearance while still hitting the absorption peak in the red spectrum. I'd also omit the UV emitters, as the jury is still out on whether or not UV benefits or hinders coral appearance/growth. |
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03/19/2012, 12:30 PM | #572 | |
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2. My tank is 72l x 18d x 24h, I'm thinking about the 108 kit. How many reds/and UV's should I incorporate? 3. I'd like to see the corals flouresce at nighttime, and I was wanting to control these with a apex controller. How is nighttime/moon lighting usually done with these led kits? |
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03/21/2012, 08:21 AM | #573 | |
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Does 120 on 60* optics sound like enough over the 48x24 footprint at 30" depth? |
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03/21/2012, 08:46 AM | #574 | |
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You'd probably have a little more luck with 2:3 than 1:1. Optics recommendations are tricky at best. It's all dependent on how you arrange the LED's, number of LED's, and height from bottom of your tank to the fixture itself. The surefire thing to do is actually draw up a scale model of your tank and fixture, then drawing cones, with the top angle being your optic degree, from where you plan on putting each LED to the bottom of the tank. I prefer to use google sketchup, as it's free and you can see your coverage in 3 dimensions. Doing this will allow you to see and correct any deficiencies (spotlighting is a big one) prior to building. For my build, I spaced the LED's in such a way that every light cone overlapped with another before the water's surface. This ensured 100% blending of colors with no diffuser necessary. In the tank, there is no spotlighting, no disco, etc. However, it required me to use more LED's than absolutely necessary and use 120 degree optics, 5" from the waters surface. |
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03/24/2012, 03:27 PM | #575 |
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I went with the 90 light kit over a 75. 45 cool white, 39 rb, 3 red, and 3 uv. I'm not terribly happy with the color. The blue is far too purple. Does anyone else find this? If I turn the blues back I get a crisp 10k. Looking for a bluer color but cant stand to turn up the blue.
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