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03/01/2013, 10:26 AM | #51 |
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Question. Can you post your code for the D18B20?
Also where did you get that PCB for the Meanwell 700's? That is so clean looking that I would love to purchase something like that. "Z" |
03/02/2013, 12:31 PM | #52 |
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PCB : http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...222702&page=37
The D18B20 code you likely found on Netduino's site. |
03/04/2013, 09:25 AM | #53 |
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Got the other two LED panels bought.
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03/13/2013, 12:07 PM | #54 |
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Can you post pictures of the chips? How are they working?
Some over tank pictures would be great. |
04/16/2013, 11:18 AM | #55 |
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04/16/2013, 03:06 PM | #56 |
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04/16/2013, 04:38 PM | #57 |
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04/16/2013, 07:33 PM | #58 |
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04/17/2013, 11:25 AM | #59 |
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04/17/2013, 11:26 AM | #60 |
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The amount of shimmer is nuts. I see why people love halides / kessils etc. ONe thing I'll have to build right away is a 'canopy' of some sort to shield the room from the side view of the LED. it's crazy bright at 25%.
some top down pictures (my phone is having problems after I dropped and shattered it this morning) I am very impressed with the colors- I am currently driving all channels off 1 dimmer so I haven't played with different %'s of colors but once I get my other piece working it'll be fun. (PS Keep in mind my wife left my lights on 24/7 for 4 days a couple weeks prior to this due to bumping the timer so I had some serious bleaching) |
04/17/2013, 11:28 AM | #61 |
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Quick question:
The LED chip - how is it protected from the humidity that it'll be exposed to? Are they IP rated? IME the LED's will quickly corrode from the salt/water. |
04/17/2013, 11:37 AM | #62 |
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First and foremost, it's a test bed setup, the LED chip in this case is a foot over the water and exposed but only for short periods of time while i'm testing, then back on goes the regular Biocube hood etc.
I need to build a shroud that both protects the LED from the water and protects the room from the LED. That's next now that I have a working test setup. |
04/30/2013, 02:50 PM | #63 |
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Well, got some floats and a pump, here is my ATO logic so far.
This creates an interrupt port that can trigger events: Code:
static InputPort SumpLevel1 = new InterruptPort(Pins.GPIO_PIN_D8,false,Port.ResistorMode.PullUp, Port.InterruptMode.InterruptEdgeLow); Code:
SumpLevel1.OnInterrupt += new NativeEventHandler(waterLowEvent); if (SumpLevel1.Read()==false) // check for low water on start up, if so fire the event manually. { waterLowEvent(0, 0, DateTime.Now); } Thread.Sleep(Timeout.Infinite); Code:
static void waterLowEvent(uint data1, uint data2, DateTime time) { if((DateTime.Now - _lastFire).Seconds < 30 || _doneFilling == false) return; else { _lastFire = DateTime.Now; _doneFilling = false; } ledOnboard.DutyCycle = 1; Debug.Print("Pump Running"); while(SumpLevel1.Read()==false) //while still too low { Thread.Sleep(1000); //give it a 1 second pause so it doesn't flutter on / off Debug.Print("still low on water, pump running!"); } //finished filling, sensor says full. Debug.Print("Pump Turns Off"); ledOnboard.DutyCycle = .25; _doneFilling = true; } Then, I set a flag to say it's filling, and set the last fire time to right now. I light up an LED to tell me that the ATO is running, then go into a while loop. The while loop says basically "While the float stays down, wait for one second, then check again" once it's up, the pump turns off, i shut off the LED and set my variable of _doneFilling to true. I'll add some additional floats for backup/etc and monitor the level of the ATO container as well eventually but it's a start to test the float. |
04/30/2013, 03:59 PM | #64 |
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what did you search for to find that LED ?
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04/30/2013, 04:45 PM | #65 |
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"DreamChip LED" will find them on ebay.
these are NOT the 'dream chip' led multichip that a group of people put together here and elsewhere. |
04/30/2013, 05:24 PM | #66 |
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Thank You
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04/30/2013, 08:27 PM | #67 |
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that's a nice heatsink. i never knew they made separate strings of leds on one chip, that's really neat. I trying this build also with LDD-1000H drivers, why didnt you go with the typoon LED controller? I was thinking go with that or adruino.
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04/30/2013, 08:34 PM | #68 | |
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Quote:
My favorite part of the Netduino is the interrupts/events. As you can see in my code my program doesn't constantly pole the float switch to see if it is up or down, when it goes down it triggers an event, which I handle, and then it goes back to waiting for an event. |
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05/07/2013, 03:17 PM | #69 |
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Alrighty, so a run down of what is done so far:
Using a Netduino Plus 2 my controller does the following:
Theoretically it's ready to run my little test reef (29 gallon bio cube). I've got a little more hardware work to do (splash shield for light, fan wiring, tidy up the controller, wire a few more relays) but it could work. Things that will be added soon:
Things to add later:
I've attached the source here, if anyone cares to look at it. Last edited by iced98lx; 05/07/2013 at 03:23 PM. |
05/10/2013, 08:44 AM | #70 |
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Did my first sunrise this morning. Can't wait to coordinate 3 of the pendants to do some awesome things. The possibilities, are endless!
Going to have some time finally to work on it tonight, my first free night in probably 4 or 5 months and I roped it off to JUST this. I'm going to mount all my boards on a backer board, wire all my outlets on my power strip and get the controller board mounted on top of it. Hook up all 8 relays up, and then focus on programming. Hopefully get my LCD going, some more LED functions, etc. end goal is to have it packaged much better by the end of the night. |
05/14/2013, 11:59 AM | #71 |
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Day 3 of full LED lighting, color is actually starting to return to a few coral pieces. I'm not saying the LED is that much more awesome than the CF it replaced but what I am saying is that it actually gets light to the poor things.
I added a glare shield about 1 inch big so it doesn't blind me out quite as bad in the office, seems to work well, might go slightly larger. Coral Notes: Pink Mille turning bright green vs the brown it had been under CF Green Acro showing much better polyp extension and skin is darkening vs the bright white under CF Green Birdsnest: Good polyp color darkening skin Bird of paradise: showing hints of green no the topmost areas skin still white, polyps white to very light purple sour apple birdsnest: darkening skin and polyps with a hint of green on the topmost polyps pink birdsnest: fighting cyno but still darkening up a bit vs bright white before Red Hyacinth birdsnest: darkening up polyps starting to purple, also battling cyno. Lots of growth on the birdsnests, some signs of growth starting on the pink mille. LPS is all going gangbusters and coloration is really picking up. |
05/14/2013, 12:59 PM | #72 |
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05/14/2013, 07:17 PM | #73 |
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Wow Talk about bright, and your only at 40%. I wish I had the ability to build and program these.
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05/14/2013, 09:14 PM | #74 | |
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Quote:
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05/18/2013, 03:34 PM | #75 |
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I need to write some fade methods and a few other things but in order to get it into production I've just set up a simple schedule so that it's daytime after 8AM dusk after 6 PM and blackout after 9 PM.
Working on getting my power strip and ATO working today, then I'll cut heater control over to the controller and fill up the ATO tank and see how it goes for a few days. |
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