RODI Saddle Valve

[ca1ore]

So I am redoing my RODI system. Bought the Avast Barrel Tender device and am moving from a faucet for source water to a standard 1/4" saddle valve (mainly because the faucet drips and is not easily replaced; plus the saddle will be aesthetically cleaner). Only, I cannot get the system to work properly with the saddle valve installed per the instructions. My booster pump is making all sorts of weird noises and the pressure gauge is low. When I remove the feed line, the water flow/pressure coming from the saddle valve is pitiful and I wonder whether it is incompatible with a booster pump. So I removed the saddle valve and noted that the punctured hole is really tiny. Got out the drill and stepper bit and enlarged the hole. Replaced the saddle and the flow is much better. No time to reconnect the RODI system tonight to see; will do that tomorrow.

My question is for folks that use a saddle, did you have to do as I did, or did I fail to note a critical step in the saddle installation procedure?

[outy]

I have heard this a lot from similar results with saddles.

You already did what I would suggest and that is drilling it out.

[Lsufan]

I dought it was the case being u know what u are doing but most issues I have seen with saddle valves are from people not closing the valve all the way when they make the hole & it only makes a little pinhole in the pipe. Regardless, I would expect the pressure to be lower with a saddle valve rather then using the faucet like u where using. The hole can only be so big.

I don’t have great pressure to begin with, so when I installed my rodi I knew a saddle valve wouldn’t work so I installed a 1/2” by 1/4” compression valve like what most sink faucets hook up to.

[ca1ore]

Thanks chaps. I enlarged the hole in the pipe to match the diameter of the hole in the rubber grommet, which in turn is about the same size as the ID of 1/4" RO tubing. Took a bit of fiddling to get the hole/grommet lined up, but is done now. Pressure/flow is now back to where it was with the faucet adapter so I think I will be good to go.

[Vinny Kreyling]

Simon,
If you can this would be preferred:
https://reverseosmosis.com/products/...4aApVdEALw_wcB

[zooman72]

Originally Posted by Vinny Kreyling

Simon,
If you can this would be preferred:
https://reverseosmosis.com/products/...4aApVdEALw_wcB

I use something similar, picked it up at Home Depot, and it is a little "beefier": Watts LFP-467CS Stop Valve

I would recommend this route over a saddle valve, but since you already drilled the hole and installed the saddle valve - good luck!

[Diana A]

Originally Posted by zooman72

I use something similar, picked it up at Home Depot, and it is a little "beefier": Watts LFP-467CS Stop Valve

Sorry to ask but I am having a bit of trouble located this item. I have tried searching using the search bar for "Watts LFP-467CS Stop Valve", "Watts LFP-467CS " and "LFP-467CS"

I probably looked right at it but since I don't know what it looks like, I passed right by it. I am at HD now and the two employees I asked were no help.


Thanks

[zooman72]

Originally Posted by Diana A

Sorry to ask but I am having a bit of trouble located this item. I have tried searching using the search bar for "Watts LFP-467CS Stop Valve", "Watts LFP-467CS " and "LFP-467CS"

I probably looked right at it but since I don't know what it looks like, I passed right by it. I am at HD now and the two employees I asked were no help.


Thanks

Sorry Diana, but I was watching football...

If you put the term into Google (Watts LFP-467CS Stop Valve), you should have come up with a bunch of sites offering the valve as it is pretty common. No offense to the fine employees of HD, but they are not always well-versed on their offerings. When I asked the gentleman in the plumbing section what I was after, he was of little help.

The valve (~$13 I think) was actually found in the kitchen faucet section if that helps, and has a blue and white back to the package, with "Quick-Connect Shut-Off Valve" for the name. I am not sure if it carried at all HD stores, but it is very common and easily found online as it is typically used to hook up kitchen-use under-sink RO units.

Good luck with your search...

[ca1ore]

Originally Posted by Vinny Kreyling

Simon,
If you can this would be preferred:
https://reverseosmosis.com/products/...4aApVdEALw_wcB

I agree, however, in my case the only tappable pipe is a standard run of 3/4" copper pipe. Was trying to avoid breaking out the blowtorch.

[VoltzNSalt]

Originally Posted by ca1ore

I agree, however, in my case the only tappable pipe is a standard run of 3/4" copper pipe. Was trying to avoid breaking out the blowtorch.

Same with me...I wasn't into getting the torch, flux and solder out...saddle valve it was

[Arthur1]

ca1ore, it's always nice to see you "around". I have installed more of those saddle valves than I like to think of and thankfully haven't had your problem. Although you effectively resolved the issue at hand, I wonder why people don't use these fittings such as these, on their cold water toilet lines to also feed ro/di units: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPYIK6M...a-319928213925

[Breadman03]

Originally Posted by ca1ore

I agree, however, in my case the only tappable pipe is a standard run of 3/4" copper pipe. Was trying to avoid breaking out the blowtorch.

That's an ideal application for Sharkbite fittings.

[ca1ore]

Originally Posted by Breadman03

That's an ideal application for Sharkbite fittings.

Have seen them at the local HD, but have not used them; have you? Almost seem like one of those too-good-to-be-true things.

[Breadman03]

Originally Posted by ca1ore

Have seen them at the local HD, but have not used them; have you? Almost seem like one of those too-good-to-be-true things.

I like them overall and mainly used them to transition to PEX whenever I work on plumbing. Since I bought a proper PEX crimp tool, I don't use them much since they are pricey, but they work quite well and I've never had an issue. The fittings usually have plastic inserts inside the fitting. They are for PEX and fit inside it so that it won't collapse. You would remove that for use on copper.

PS: I just upgraded my torch. I had to replace a mixer valve for the hot water from my boiler and my old one just didn't put out enough heat to get a good solder. I was getting mad that I kept having leaks. 20 minutes after getting the new torch, I was leak-free and enjoying a hot shower.

[Haksar]

Isn’t saddle back valve used for RO drain .
I am sorry for my ignorance

[outy]

Originally Posted by Haksar

Isn’t saddle back valve used for RO drain .
I am sorry for my ignorance

No it is the feed water to RO only.

[mcgyvr]

FYI.. Saddle valves have been banned in many states plumbing/building codes and should not be used anywhere..

They are banned in CT (I believe its 707.1 of the building code) as well as many other states (if not all)
So glad you got it working well but now you can remove it and get out the torch

[ca1ore]

If they were 'banned' in CT I would think the local stores would not sell them. Regardless, I may break out the torch anyhow because it looks awfully flimsy.

[ca1ore]

Originally Posted by Haksar

Isn’t saddle back valve used for RO drain.

Both feed and drain actually.

[Haksar]

Thanks

[Diana A]

thank you zooman72

[zooman72]

Originally Posted by Diana A

thank you zooman72

You're welcome...



Good luck with the saddle valve Simon - I have seen more than one leak.

I would not have recommended the valve I did if I had known that you were dealing with a straight length of copper, but hopefully you have no issues. It should at least get you through until you decide to upgrade with a torch...

[VoltzNSalt]

My saddle valve has never leaked in ~4 years. I used snakebite when I installed my new water heater - that hasn't leaked either

[ca1ore]

Well it started to drip so I got out the blow torch and sweated in a stub. Probably just should have done it that way from the start.

[tkeracer619]

Yeah, they're junk. Always sweat on a fitting or tee off under the sink.