Reef Central Online Community
Blue Zoo Aquatics

Home Forum Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences View New Posts View Today's Posts

Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Search Reefkeeping ...an online magazine for marine aquarists Support our sponsors and mention Reef Central

Go Back   Reef Central Online Community > Coral Forums > SPS Keepers
Register Blogs FAQ Calendar Mark Forums Read

Notices

User Tag List

Reply
Thread Tools
Old 05/02/2019, 06:58 PM   #1
Skujio
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 52
At my wits end

First off I'll go ahead and give parameters.

Cal- 475 ppm
Alk- 8.0 dKH
Mag- 1400 ppm
Nitrate- 25
Phos- .20 (both elevated through dosing)
Temp- 77-78 daily
Salinity- 1.025

Over the course of the last 6 or so months I've seen my sps degrading terribly. Every new piece introduced begins fine for about a week and then develops dryness throughout and brown algae then takes over. I've ran into acro flatworms however that battle has been fought and this affliction is not caused by them as no bites have been observed for months. Also I have recently began to change my T5s as it's that time of the year but this problem had been ongoing and if anything I would have seen bleaching occur rather than stn. If anyone has any pointers I would be very grateful as I'm close to just breaking down and restarting. Pics show the state of the sps.


Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


Skujio is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/02/2019, 07:09 PM   #2
dubmaneh
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Toronto, ON
Posts: 199
Do an ICP water test. I had very similar symptoms and it was low iodine and low potassium. Now I know when my corals look “dry” it’s low iodine.

Not saying that iodine is necessarily your culprit, but an ICP test would be money well spent.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


dubmaneh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/02/2019, 07:30 PM   #3
Skujio
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 52
Quote:
Originally Posted by dubmaneh View Post
Do an ICP water test. I had very similar symptoms and it was low iodine and low potassium. Now I know when my corals look “dry” it’s low iodine.

Not saying that iodine is necessarily your culprit, but an ICP test would be money well spent.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Actually I recently sent in an ICP test. All levels normal other than sodium which was a little low.


Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


Skujio is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/03/2019, 07:45 AM   #4
Fishinbob
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 67
I've had a very similar problem couldn't keep nutrients up.. so I started dosing nitrates and phos. Growth was great then most corals started to diminish .

Question have you been doing regular water changes?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


Fishinbob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/03/2019, 07:49 AM   #5
Skujio
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 52
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishinbob View Post
I've had a very similar problem couldn't keep nutrients up.. so I started dosing nitrates and phos. Growth was great then most corals started to diminish .

Question have you been doing regular water changes?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Yes! 5 gal per week but recently now 10. 90 gal full volume.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


Skujio is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/03/2019, 08:01 AM   #6
Fishinbob
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 67
Some friends and I have been having the conversation about bio diversity and dosing of these independent solutions such as nitrates phosphates and aminos. Just a theory that with these dosing regimens we are stimulating different bacterial populations which may interact with tank chemisty/uptake differently then the typical bacterial populations.
This is a new problem for me aswell(within the past year)
Previously I had high fish bioload, and regular waterchanges to minimize the nutrients.
Now my bioload is somewhat low and not nearly enough input into the system. Even with heavying feeding and dosing.
I have only been doing 5-10% biweekly water changes due to them lowering nutrients and causing a cyano outbreak.
Since then I've upped the water changes 15-20% weekly added a significant bioload increase and began dosing bacterial supplements microblaster, microblift, fritz and thing are coming around slowly albeit.
I was dosing 350+ ml cal and alk daily so that with minimal water changes (for element replacement and nutrient dillution) and extremely low no3 and p04(additives) was the culprit in my case, and looks very similar to what was happening for me.


Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


Fishinbob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/03/2019, 10:12 AM   #7
Skujio
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 52
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishinbob View Post
Some friends and I have been having the conversation about bio diversity and dosing of these independent solutions such as nitrates phosphates and aminos. Just a theory that with these dosing regimens we are stimulating different bacterial populations which may interact with tank chemisty/uptake differently then the typical bacterial populations.
This is a new problem for me aswell(within the past year)
Previously I had high fish bioload, and regular waterchanges to minimize the nutrients.
Now my bioload is somewhat low and not nearly enough input into the system. Even with heavying feeding and dosing.
I have only been doing 5-10% biweekly water changes due to them lowering nutrients and causing a cyano outbreak.
Since then I've upped the water changes 15-20% weekly added a significant bioload increase and began dosing bacterial supplements microblaster, microblift, fritz and thing are coming around slowly albeit.
I was dosing 350+ ml cal and alk daily so that with minimal water changes (for element replacement and nutrient dillution) and extremely low no3 and p04(additives) was the culprit in my case, and looks very similar to what was happening for me.


Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
What you're saying is the increase in bio load and water changes is a better way to go than dosing no3 and po4? That's the route I'm taking now. I've added a few fish about a month ago and took the dosers offline.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


Skujio is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/03/2019, 11:12 AM   #8
Fishinbob
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 67
Yes, I would do a series of water changes maybe 20% a week for 6 weeks or so. Add some additional fish to increase bioload and feed fish and corals heavily while doing the water changes to make up for the nutrient export from water changes.

Going back to a moderately overstocked tank and heavy feedings of fish and corals and getting a more natural n03 and po4 and whatever else these fish release into the tank.
One I started dosing nitrates, the tank seemed dependant on them and if missed a day or didnt feed Colors started to fade.
Ran out of nitrates for a week and the corals started fading/beginning of stn.
Hope this helps I know I've been battling the issue for a while. It will take the tank a few months to get its stride again.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


Fishinbob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/03/2019, 11:55 AM   #9
Skujio
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 52
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishinbob View Post
Yes, I would do a series of water changes maybe 20% a week for 6 weeks or so. Add some additional fish to increase bioload and feed fish and corals heavily while doing the water changes to make up for the nutrient export from water changes.

Going back to a moderately overstocked tank and heavy feedings of fish and corals and getting a more natural n03 and po4 and whatever else these fish release into the tank.
One I started dosing nitrates, the tank seemed dependant on them and if missed a day or didnt feed Colors started to fade.
Ran out of nitrates for a week and the corals started fading/beginning of stn.
Hope this helps I know I've been battling the issue for a while. It will take the tank a few months to get its stride again.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
I appreciate it man will do. Any other pointers you can think of?


Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


Skujio is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06/01/2019, 07:23 PM   #10
reefmutt
Registered Member
 
reefmutt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Mtl. Canada
Posts: 7,812
I wouldn’t call 25 n and .2 p anywhere near to low levels.. in fact I’d call them high.. - not that I think that those levels have anything to do with the coral issues..probably doesn’t..
However I do completely agree that the series of bigger water changes. This may just turn things around. Not sure about adding more bioload.. your bio load is already producing plenty of nutrients..

— just noticed you mentioned that n and p are high due to dosing... D’oh.. then yes I agree ditch the dosing and add a couple of fish ..


__________________
Matt.

Current Tank Info: 53x32.5x26 190g dt 60g of sumps 3 tank-100 gal frag system 6xAI prime 8xt5. 4x maxspect gyre. Skimz Dual internal sicce pump skimmer Deltec PF601s ca rx+Kalk stirrer
reefmutt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06/08/2019, 10:24 PM   #11
five.five-six
Registered Member
 
five.five-six's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Corona
Posts: 7,060
Blog Entries: 6
Could be I see redbugs. Photo fuzzy


__________________
Originally posted by yellowslayer13:

"I hate that hole"

Current Tank Info: SCMAS Member 225 peninsula euroreef RS180 Apex 250W X 3 20k radiums mixed SPS
five.five-six is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06/12/2019, 08:47 AM   #12
acesq
Registered Member
 
acesq's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Calabasas, CA
Posts: 1,457
When corals decline rapidly despite decent tank parameters (which you have), the most likely causes include bad make up water, poisoning (rusting magnets, air born pollutants, etc.), pests or a bacterial disease like white band.

Tap water that is high in chloramines can quickly get through carbon blocks and destroy RO membranes. If you haven't changed your RO filters in a while, try that. If that's the cause, you'll see a quick turnaround. My tap water is treated with so much chloramine I had to add extra carbon blocks and change them out at least once per year or my corals will suffer.


Also look for potential sources of poisoning. After months of dealing with declining SPS I found a badly rusting probe holder magnet in the back corner of my sump. Took that out, did a few large water changes and the corals responded. This showed up on an ICP test as very high tungsten W.

Also look for red bugs or AEFW and treat if you find any.


__________________
Current tank: 340g AGE peninsula
acesq is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06/12/2019, 02:05 PM   #13
Holyreefer
Octopus Extreme 300 Skimr
 
Holyreefer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,238
Quote:
Originally Posted by acesq View Post
When corals decline rapidly despite decent tank parameters (which you have), the most likely causes include bad make up water, poisoning (rusting magnets, air born pollutants, etc.), pests or a bacterial disease like white band.

Tap water that is high in chloramines can quickly get through carbon blocks and destroy RO membranes. If you haven't changed your RO filters in a while, try that. If that's the cause, you'll see a quick turnaround. My tap water is treated with so much chloramine I had to add extra carbon blocks and change them out at least once per year or my corals will suffer.


Also look for potential sources of poisoning. After months of dealing with declining SPS I found a badly rusting probe holder magnet in the back corner of my sump. Took that out, did a few large water changes and the corals responded. This showed up on an ICP test as very high tungsten W.

Also look for red bugs or AEFW and treat if you find any.
9/10 times every time i go to a reef society meeting its always the RO system filters they forget to keep up with or check.


__________________
Life is what you make it, so make something out of everything you do!

Current Tank Info: GYRE 150,Seaswirl 1.5, Barcuda Pump, Custom LED system, Extreme Reef Octopus 300 Protein Skimmer, 80 watt Aqua UV, Korallin BioDenitrator Nitrate, Hydor Magnum 8 Powerheads
Holyreefer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06/12/2019, 04:16 PM   #14
Deahttub
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Longwood,Fl
Posts: 169
Quote:
Originally Posted by holyreefer View Post
9/10 times every time i go to a reef society meeting its always the ro system filters they forget to keep up with or check.

+1


Deahttub is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06/17/2019, 12:55 AM   #15
BS#9247
Registered Member
 
BS#9247's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Bay Area California
Posts: 35
Burning tips, I usually start adding Kent’s Iodine in my tank a cap full each day. Until they look better. Cut on the feeding of the tank, only feed the fish with pellets.


BS#9247 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:18 AM.


TapaTalk Enabled

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2019 Axivo Inc.
Use of this web site is subject to the terms and conditions described in the user agreement.
Reef CentralTM Reef Central, LLC. Copyright ©1999-2014
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.