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01/22/2010, 10:04 PM | #1351 |
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I am designing my setup, it will be a 120 gallon tank and will be running about 1200-1400 gph through the sump, i think im going to use 1.5" bean system, is this overkill? or should i use 1 1/4"?
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01/22/2010, 10:05 PM | #1352 | |
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Even with things secured, I'm an absolute klutz, so I try an make provisions for it!
Regular ol' PVC Cement it is then! thanks! Quote:
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Member: SCMAS Current Tank Info: 90g LeeMar with Starphire front, coast-to-coast overflow, Vortechs, ATB 840 v1.5 |
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01/22/2010, 10:14 PM | #1353 | |
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Quote:
snickers. welcome, Jim
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"Things should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler." (oft attributed to Einstein; most likely paraphrasing by Roger Sessions; compactly articulates the principle of Occam's Razor) Current Tank Info: 325 6' wide Reef |
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01/23/2010, 10:08 AM | #1354 |
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hey guys,
so i setup my bean drain over the last couple days. its going from the mainfloor to my basemen sump. it drops 4ft into a couple 45's to go throught the wall...i have an udersized pump at the moment (blueline 55, probably 700gph at the tank). the drains are 1.5" and even with the siphon fully closed the water doesnt make the emergency drain. anyway, the issue im having is the water going trough the pipes sounds like Niagara falls...it';s LOUD. I have noticed that in the siphon pipe i have some bubbles (which is causing the noise in the pipe right?). the output is 1" under water in the sump. does anyone else have issues with the noise of water going through the pipes? how do i stop this? make sure the siphon is air tight? any suggestions would be appreciated thanks |
01/23/2010, 10:15 AM | #1355 |
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Do you have pics? Are there any valves in place to control/tailor the flow?
T
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No....really honey, it was a gift! Current Tank Info: 700 gallon combined reef/frag systems - 650gal Cichlid system |
01/23/2010, 10:18 AM | #1356 |
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Your setup is a bit different due to the long drop.
Your adjustment valve needs to be on the END of the siphon pipe, just above the sump, otherwise you will have problems with cavitation in the pipe (very noisy). Once you get that cleared up, then we can determine if changeds need to be made to the open channel (the long drop may create noise depending on how the pipe is configured). |
01/23/2010, 10:36 AM | #1357 |
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ok thanks bean, i'll try moving the valve closer to the sump. i could have sworn i read somewhere in this thread saying the valve should be closer to the overflow...
anyway, here are a couple pics of the setup now...sorry for bad quality..they cell pics.. Last edited by Misled; 10/30/2017 at 07:38 PM. |
01/23/2010, 10:51 AM | #1358 |
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Hey Bean, I got a question that is only semi-related to this thread, but don't know of any other way to ask you a question.
I plan to use your overflow design. My tank will be 200 gallon (50"L X 36"W X 26"H). My sump will be 95 gallon (46"L X 28"W X 17"H) probably 60 gallon actual volume. For the return pump I plan on using 1.5" tubing split into two returns. Question what would you recommend for return/flow through the sump in GPH? |
01/23/2010, 10:57 AM | #1359 |
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That all depends on what your goals are and how else you are getting in-tank flow. Even at a modest 600 GPH, you will have decent flow through the sump. Low flow through a large sump can create a lot of stagnant areas. I prefer higher flow refugia and sumps... but there are many ways to setup a system.
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01/23/2010, 11:15 AM | #1360 |
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Yes, that is actually why I am asking you... because I read further back in the thread that you prefer high flow sumps (not to mention, you are far more knowledgeable on this subject than I am). I like the idea of high flow sumps to prevent stagnant areas. I guess I should provide a little more info.
In my display I plan to use two MP40s, one on each side. For the return lines I plan to have them exit into the display via two 1" sea swirls (they are rated for about 1100 gph each). Here is my sump design. (Please try not to laugh at my poor sketchup skills... also it is not quite at proper scale). The refugium section (all the way to the left) has a small bulkhead so I can run lower flow through it. So most of the flow will be in the skimmer section and the middle return section. I posted this design in a different thread awhile back and didn't get very many comments. The few comments I did get suggested to turn this into the same design as any other sump by making the bubble trap the full width of thee sump. What I am trying to do with this design is use the LARGE width I have to work with. It's 28" wide. So I have flow going from front to back, then back to front before the internal return pump. The bubble trap is still 14" wide as is. This is just a concept. I haven't built anything yet. Last edited by stealle; 01/23/2010 at 11:32 AM. |
01/23/2010, 11:27 AM | #1361 |
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Maybe I should also mention, in the display, I plan to use a moderate amount of LR that will be at least 4" away from the glass on all 4 walls. I'll have two islands of LR that will go about half way up the height of the tank. I mention this because I should have good flow in the display with the design (avoiding the big rock wall that rests against the back wall of the tank).
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01/24/2010, 10:04 AM | #1362 |
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Hey bean,
so i moved the valve to the bottom, that helped with bubbles, i'm only getting tiny bubbles out the siphon pipe now, but sound wise it hasn't helped much at all. Still getting the gushing noise, but i can;t make out if it's from the siphon or the open chanel... any advise would help. i think the hole ontop of the open is too small so i will make it a little bigger thanks |
01/25/2010, 04:53 AM | #1363 |
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First of all, one does not need a huge turn over between display tank and sump, just enough to the skim the surface of the water. THis eliminates micro bubble problems and conserves energy. IMHO, the best, fail-safe overflow is one that has two drain pipes into the sump, one always in use, the other, positioned 1 pr 2 inches higher than the primary stand pipe which would pick up the overflow in case (when) the primary stand pipe gets clogged.
Hope this helps. |
01/25/2010, 07:00 AM | #1364 | |||
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
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01/25/2010, 07:16 AM | #1365 |
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flamehawk:
I know that this is a LONG thread...but with good reason. It would be worth your time to read all of it, if you are interested in setting up another tank, or looking for additional ways to create more versatile overflow sytems for your tanks. T *EDIT* Well - I just noticed the "Moved On" under his name.....and with only 20 posts.....ooops. Maybe he will be back soon?
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No....really honey, it was a gift! Current Tank Info: 700 gallon combined reef/frag systems - 650gal Cichlid system |
01/25/2010, 07:53 AM | #1366 |
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Who knows... by looking at the wording of many of his posts, it could be somebody like hahn or fatman with a new nickname.
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01/25/2010, 07:59 AM | #1367 |
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I am trying so hard to find ways to NOT get frustrated,or sound like a "know it all" (because I don't think any of us know it ALL )and post things that will be taken too harshly.
Sometimes I read what I wrote - and too much time has passed to edit it....and I cringe at how I must come across sometimes. Maybe that is what got flamehawk "moved on"....... that his posts were read as too adversarial...? T
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No....really honey, it was a gift! Current Tank Info: 700 gallon combined reef/frag systems - 650gal Cichlid system |
01/25/2010, 08:05 AM | #1368 |
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No idea
Slammin. Adjust the siphon so that NO water is going into the open channel. Let us know if there is still sound. Once we figure out what is going on there we can look for answers. Bubbles in the siphon indicated that air is still getting in. Is it getting sucked in through the intake? If not then you have a leak in a fitting. |
01/25/2010, 10:20 AM | #1369 |
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I'm setting up an external overflow with all 1" piping and wanted to know how deep the water should be in relation to the intake elbows. Should the elbows be fully submerged? I've been told by other fellow reefers that the water line in the overflow should be half-way of the elbow. Is this a requirement or can the elbows on the siphon and open channel be fully submerged?
Also how much higher should I place the open channel than the siphon channel to help out during start ups? Thanks! |
01/25/2010, 10:30 AM | #1370 |
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oops double post
Last edited by slammin; 01/25/2010 at 10:35 AM. |
01/25/2010, 10:34 AM | #1371 |
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thanks bean, i managed to get the siphon silent after a lot of tweaking of the valve...i think i was having a problem purging the line of air...seems to take close to 20mins to get the air out...
anyway, now onto the open chanel...i am hearing the water trickle through the line (or at the intake in the top, i can hear the air being sucked in)...i think i may have a little too much water flowing through there, but to adjust that to the exact spot is very difficult...especially cuz the valve is downstairs... would making the air hole in the cap bigger help with that? |
01/25/2010, 10:41 AM | #1372 |
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The cap should not be restricting air at all, that creates a partial siphon and makes the system noisy and hard to keep adjusted.
Once you get the system set, it should not need to be adjusted further |
01/25/2010, 11:13 AM | #1373 |
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thanks for all the help bean, i'll make the hole one size bigger, then play with the adjustment tonite...hope i can find that sweet spot! want to get the tank water in there already!
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01/25/2010, 01:45 PM | #1374 |
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Hey Bean and all who have contributed. I enjoyed reading through these 100+ pages of posts as I am in the process of setting up a 75 disply with a 75 sump/fuge. I like your thoughts and design criteria of fail safe, quiet, set and forget, no air bubbles, easy clean, Bean drain system.
Do you have any small detail changes or updates/modifications to your original design from 2 years ago that I could incorporate into the install that I will be doing in the near future? I noticed in your gallery on your website that the drain system on your in-wall tank has air nozzles on all three drains with air lines on two of them. Is this an update or where those the research trials that determined your fail safe method? Thanks for sharing this reproducable drain system that is clearly successful. |
01/25/2010, 02:44 PM | #1375 |
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Hey Bean...six months in on my system using your silent/failsafe overflow and it is an absolute perfect setup...I am the envy of all my reefing friends who now want to upgrade their tanks and implement this as well. I'm so glad I came across this thread when I was deciding how to set up my tank 8 months ago. Thanks!
Quick shout out to Uncleof6 as well since I see you here as well...thanks for ALL your assistance as well! One quick note of change to my overflow...I originally had three length-wise panes of glass cut for my oveflow (even though only two were required as mine sets on the inside of my tank). I was having problems with a couple smaller fish wanting to explore and taking a ride so I used Krylon spray paint to paint one side of the remaining piece of glass and bought some cabinet stoppers (the clear rubber kind) and now have a nice "cover" for my overflow that also keeps any possible build-up of algae in there...the outside of my overflow has been covered completely with corralline
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In the end (and the begining) we're all just stardust anyway... Current Tank Info: 75 gallon SPS reef/55 gallon sump/6x54W TEK T5HO/Reef Octopus 200 Extreme Skimmer/Reef Octopus Single Chamber Calcium Reactor/RKL |
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