odyssea MH fixture review... new electronic version

[GSMguy]

no 250de bulbs are like twice the size of a 150
that is really odd could a 250w bulb fire off of 150w ballasts that could be the reason for the yellow color maybee you got 150w ballasts?

[miatawnt2b]

well I took a look at some pictures, and the 150W bulbs have a completely different socket assembly. So I am pretty confident the bulbs are indeed 250W. The ballasts however??? Who knows.

-J

[GSMguy]

they must be able to fire because they are electronic this would explain why the hamilton14k would not work

[miatawnt2b]

what's different about the hamilton 14K?

[sherm71tank]

I've had my 760 watt unit for a while now. I also felt the bulbs it came with were to yellow (marked as 10K). I replaced them with Phoenix 14K's. Still running great with no problems. External ballasts get warm to touch. I would purchase it again for sure! I fully expected to have to replace the ballasts in it but that doesn't seem to be the case. I also checked out the Coralife fixture and it looks exactly the same (except the Odyssea comes with 250 watt hqi's).

[miatawnt2b]

Originally posted by sherm71tank
I've had my 760 watt unit for a while now. I also felt the bulbs it came with were to yellow (marked as 10K). I replaced them with Phoenix 14K's. Still running great with no problems. External ballasts get warm to touch. I would purchase it again for sure! I fully expected to have to replace the ballasts in it but that doesn't seem to be the case. I also checked out the Coralife fixture and it looks exactly the same (except the Odyssea comes with 250 watt hqi's).

Sherm, Do your halide ballasts look the same as mine? Happen to have a kill-a-watt you could plug them into, or any ammeter? (we can figure wattage from amps)

-J

[sherm71tank]

The ballasts look the same (plain aluminum boxes). I took some rough measurements, 10 1/2" long x 3 7/8" wide x 2 1/8" tall measuring the box only. I don't have anything to measure AC current with.

[miatawnt2b]

Originally posted by sherm71tank
The ballasts look the same (plain aluminum boxes). I took some rough measurements, 10 1/2" long x 3 7/8" wide x 2 1/8" tall measuring the box only. I don't have anything to measure AC current with.

How long have your MH's been running?

I turned up a post where someone was able to fire 250W lamps with a 150W ballast, so I guess in some cases it will work.

-J

[sherm71tank]

The Phoenix 14k's have been running for about 3 weeks. No problems out of it. I can probably borrow a killawatt from a fellow reefer if it's an issue, but mine is running just fine. What are we trying to determine?

[BurntOutReefer]

wow...I leave for awhile and this thread is now 3 pages...
OK...in response to Noodel..you said...."I also replaced the ballasts before using the unit. ".....
Then why bother buying the unit in the first place?...why not just pay the extra$$ in teh first place and be done with it.....

UL listing...why its important.....when you house burns down due to non-UL listed goods....try to sue the manufacturer.....
and 99.9% of the goods I own are all UL listed.

[miatawnt2b]

Originally posted by sherm71tank
The Phoenix 14k's have been running for about 3 weeks. No problems out of it. I can probably borrow a killawatt from a fellow reefer if it's an issue, but mine is running just fine. What are we trying to determine?

I'm trying to figure out if the ballasts are 150W or 250W. A 250W ballast will pull just over 250W from the wall. Since mine only pull 150W, I've determined I have 150W ballasts driving a 250W bulb. In other words, wrong ballast. So if your ballasts pull 250W each, then you are good. If they pull 150, you're in the same boat.
-J

[sherm71tank]

Funny stuff. I run an assembly shop for several types of electric and pneumatic tools. I know first hand the UL listing does not make a tool any more safe. It costs lots of money to get the cool little decal though. Assuming just because your item is safe because of a decal is naive, but it is what the people at UL love to hear!

[GSMguy]

Originally posted by BurntOutReefer
wow...I leave for awhile and this thread is now 3 pages...
OK...in response to Noodel..you said...."I also replaced the ballasts before using the unit. ".....
Then why bother buying the unit in the first place?...why not just pay the extra$$ in teh first place and be done with it.....

UL listing...why its important.....when you house burns down due to non-UL listed goods....try to sue the manufacturer.....
and 99.9% of the goods I own are all UL listed.

if you replace the ballasts and bulbs you must end up spending more than you would pay for an aquamedic or maristar t5ho/hqi and if it breaks no warranty because you altered it why does it make sense to change the ballasts

[sherm71tank]

Originally posted by miatawnt2b
I'm trying to figure out if the ballasts are 150W or 250W. A 250W ballast will pull just over 250W from the wall. Since mine only pull 150W, I've determined I have 150W ballasts driving a 250W bulb. In other words, wrong ballast. So if your ballasts pull 250W each, then you are good. If they pull 150, you're in the same boat.
-J

I'll borrow the killawatt and try to get it done this weekend. Sorry for the falling off track with the UL crap. It's just funny to me how much programming goes on. THAT is a different thread though.

[miatawnt2b]

Originally posted by GSMguy
if you replace the ballasts and bulbs you must end up spending more than you would pay for an aquamedic or maristar t5ho/hqi and if it breaks no warranty because you altered it why does it make sense to change the ballasts

well for one, I can get this fixture and replace every ballast cheaper than I can buy an aquamedic and a maristar. In fact, I think the cheap ($650) maristar comes with magnetic/tar ballasts.

I'll actually have a couple of options with mine. I am going to call aquatraders (wish me luck there) and see if I can make any headway on the correct ballast. If not, I may retro a pair of 150HQI sockets and bulbs since I actually wanted 150's anyhow. I can do this cheaper than probably even shipping the current ballasts back. Or, I can place an order for a pair of 250W electronic ballasts from hidhut for under $200 and still be under $550 for my setup.

-J

[naldopr]

hi mia
if you find out that they send you the wrong ballast why you just call them and let them know?
I think if I spend the 350 even though is cheaper than the rest is 359 dollar that you pay for it.
call thet and let them know.....

[naldopr]

sherm71tank
can you add some photos of your set up just to compare?
thanks

[GSMguy]

right 550 so you are getting ther in price but no t5HO
and the maristar is 250w for 650, not 150w for 550
oh and if you buy two 60dollar pheonix bulbs guess what now it cost more than the t5ho with hqi
totall cost with bulbs and ballasts $670
am i missing something?

[BurntOutReefer]

Originally posted by miatawnt2b
well for one, I can get this fixture and replace every ballast cheaper than I can buy an aquamedic and a maristar. In fact, I think the cheap ($650) maristar comes with magnetic/tar ballasts.

I'll actually have a couple of options with mine. I am going to call aquatraders (wish me luck there) and see if I can make any headway on the correct ballast. If not, I may retro a pair of 150HQI sockets and bulbs since I actually wanted 150's anyhow. I can do this cheaper than probably even shipping the current ballasts back. Or, I can place an order for a pair of 250W electronic ballasts from hidhut for under $200 and still be under $550 for my setup.

-J

You haven't taken into account the man hours to do this...
figure you make $20 per hour....and it'll take you 4 hours to do all this......
For me at least...its just not worth the hassle....

[BurntOutReefer]

"Funny stuff. I run an assembly shop for several types of electric and pneumatic tools. I know first hand the UL listing does not make a tool any more safe. It costs lots of money to get the cool little decal though. Assuming just because your item is safe because of a decal is naive, but it is what the people at UL love to hear!"....

I'm in manufacturing business also...
Inorder to get your product with UL "sticker"...they have to test the product. They dont just "hand" out stickers....thinking that is naive......

[miatawnt2b]

Originally posted by BurntOutReefer
You haven't taken into account the man hours to do this...
figure you make $20 per hour....and it'll take you 4 hours to do all this......
For me at least...its just not worth the hassle....

For you, great, then don't.
For me, I actually enjoy electronics projects, and enjoy wasting my time with them. I don't figure my time in it... it's my hobby... much like people who put crazy hours into restoring cars (or even some of this riced up stuff we see on the road) Sure, they have a nice car when they're done, but they will never see the dollars back from it.

And no-one said UL justs hands out stickers. I only said this light is safer than some bozo who wires up a UL ballast into a hood with masking tape. I've seen it done... In fact, I'm proud to admit, i've taped wires myself with masking tape testing on the bench.

-J

[dmo]

GSMguy, where are you getting your Maristar prices? The only places that I can find selling the maristar for around 650 aren't including ballasts or bulbs..?

I'm not defending the value of the aquatraders light, I'm just curious.

[naldopr]

The Maristar HQI metal halide and T5 fluorescent combination fixture from Sunlight Supply is the only T5/HQI combination aquarium system available in the U.S. The Maristar system has a sleek design at just 4.25" High. This 4ft. Maristar fixture includes 80mm cooling fans, adjustable cable hanger and tempered glass. Purchase the Maristar tank mounting bracket separately. This fixture has separate lamp and power cords or independent bulb control. Available in Black only. Utilizes 2 -250W HQI bulbs and 2 - 54W T5 bulbs (not included). Use with a dual dual 250W remote HQI ballast. The reflector features the Reef Optix and Tek T5 reflector for maximum output and optimal light balance. Save when you buy a Maristar Kit that includes everything you need: HQI ballast & bulbs & T5 Actinics.

Originally posted by GSMguy
right 550 so you are getting ther in price but no t5HO
and the maristar is 250w for 650, not 150w for 550
oh and if you buy two 60dollar pheonix bulbs guess what now it cost more than the t5ho with hqi
totall cost with bulbs and ballasts $670
am i missing something?

Utilizes 2 -250W HQI bulbs and 2 - 54W T5 bulbs (not included).

[sherm71tank]

Originally posted by BurntOutReefer
"Funny stuff. I run an assembly shop for several types of electric and pneumatic tools. I know first hand the UL listing does not make a tool any more safe. It costs lots of money to get the cool little decal though. Assuming just because your item is safe because of a decal is naive, but it is what the people at UL love to hear!"....

I'm in manufacturing business also...
Inorder to get your product with UL "sticker"...they have to test the product. They dont just "hand" out stickers....thinking that is naive......

Uh huh, and everything the FDA "tests" is safe as well? Come on now. It's just a matter of throwing enough money at it.

[BurntOutReefer]

Mia...wasn't bashing....just stating my opinion....5 years ago......I would have been "on your side".....all my stuff was DIY....
no, however...a little older and no longer have the patience for it........