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08/22/2018, 05:54 PM | #9801 |
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Location: Portland
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I've been running a 1.5" bean animal setup on my 300 w/ 100g sump for about 4 years. I run about 700gph through my sump and have no plans to ever increase that amount. I overbuilt the bean animal after reading through both of these threads and tons of others.
The drop from tank to sump is about 4'. I'm building a new 300 tank and setting up a new bean animal. James, with Envision, suggested 1" siphon and open channel with a 1.5" emergency would be plenty. The flow charts I saw show that 1" at full siphon will give me 960gph min up to 2200gph at average pressure. Does anyone see any issues with going with 1"? Thanks!
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300g custom acrylic from James 72x36x27, 4 Mitras Lx7 &6 a360, 2 Stream 3s, C2C beananimal. 100g sump, Jebao DCP- 8000 (Vectra M1 died) -> 114w aquauv -> SRO 5000ext , varios8 return Current Tank Info: Me v Dinos - I'm winning for now... Last edited by Zalick; 08/22/2018 at 06:00 PM. |
08/22/2018, 06:03 PM | #9802 |
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I ran 1.5" for all 3 pipes when I built mine. Granted, I'm running about 3k GPS thru the sump on a 225g tank
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Intelligence is knowing that a tomato is a fruit. Wisdom is knowing not to put it in a fruit salad Current Tank Info: 75g mixed reef |
08/22/2018, 09:11 PM | #9803 | |
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08/23/2018, 08:19 PM | #9804 |
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I would go with 1.5” for the reasons sisterlimonpot mentioned. Yes a 1” syphon can handle your flow, but a 1” open channel can’t handle anywhere close to what a 1.5” can a remain quiet. With 1” on a system that large it won’t be able to take much fluctuation at all & remain quiet. U may find u have to mess with the valve on the syphon more often to keep it quiet. 1” will work with the flow u will have but u may have to tune on the valve every so often to where 1.5” u probably won’t ever have to touch the valve once it’s setup. So if u do decide to use 1” it isn’t something u will have to redo because it doesn’t work, just be prepared to adjust it every once in a while. How often would depend on the system. Personally, 150 gallon tank & up I would go with 1.5”.
I have a manifold off my return pump & with the 1.5” drains I can shut down a reactor or my fuge & not have to touch the valve. If I had to estimate I would say 1.5” can handle between 250 to 350 gph flunctuation in the system & 1” will get loud at about 50 to 100gph. It’s a pretty big difference. Last edited by Lsufan; 08/23/2018 at 08:25 PM. |
08/24/2018, 09:43 AM | #9805 |
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I also have a tank made by James. I had the tank built with 3 x 1.5" I reduced the siphon channel to 1" just after exiting the overflow and kept the plumbing inside the overflow box at 1.5" and it works great. Having both the open / emergency channels at 1.5" just allows more flow and quieter operation. So I suggest 3 x 1.5
You should be happy with your tank he does great work. |
09/09/2018, 08:15 PM | #9806 |
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Hello,
I need some advice on which size pipe, where to put the overflow, how many i need on my new project tank. It is a bowfront 86x29x29 (24 at end). It will be a freshwater tank. Thanks |
09/24/2018, 08:45 PM | #9807 | |
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I read and think to go with a Coast to coast overflow. And I have some question: What size of pipe will you use on my setup ? 1,5'' / 2'' ? Do you think that the efficiency will be the same if I put the pipe at one end instead of the center? If not, why and what do you suggest ? I will not have access to the back of the aquarium and I want a reliable and hassle free setup. Thanks! Boran Here a more picture |
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09/25/2018, 08:15 AM | #9808 |
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Location: Miller Place, NY
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My calculations come to around 300 gallons.
1.5 should be plenty. Many people have end overflows, mostly on a peninsula style tank. A Bean Animal drain will be the quietest (3 pipes). Plenty of information here if you do a search.
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250 gallon mixed reef, 2 Reefbreeder's Photon V 2, Deepwater BLDC 12, DAS EX-3 Skimmer, MTC mini cal, 2-3/4" Sea Swirls, Aquacontroller & 6 Tunze pumps. |
09/25/2018, 08:25 AM | #9809 |
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It really depends on what your flow through rate is going to be. I have just under 3000 gallons per hour flooring through my overflow. I have 1.5" drains and I wish I went 2"
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Intelligence is knowing that a tomato is a fruit. Wisdom is knowing not to put it in a fruit salad Current Tank Info: 75g mixed reef |
09/25/2018, 12:15 PM | #9810 | |
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Does in a C2C internal overflow, it is better to drill hole in the back at différent height ? The full syphon 1’’ lower than the 2 others pipe ? Thanks |
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09/25/2018, 12:16 PM | #9811 | |
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09/25/2018, 01:30 PM | #9812 |
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If I remember flow with Altum"s should be slow to moderate at most.
I would try getting a baseline from someone keeping them or an article written on them. I would still use 1.5 in case the focus changes later on.
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250 gallon mixed reef, 2 Reefbreeder's Photon V 2, Deepwater BLDC 12, DAS EX-3 Skimmer, MTC mini cal, 2-3/4" Sea Swirls, Aquacontroller & 6 Tunze pumps. |
09/25/2018, 04:43 PM | #9813 |
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What is the purpose of the Tee with the cap at the back of the internal box design? Can these just be 90s? Also, I was wondering if instead of the airline on the open channel, would a hole drilled in the top of the 90 inside the tank work the same?
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09/25/2018, 07:00 PM | #9814 | |
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Does the full syphon need to be lower like my drawing or is it not necessary ? How many inch need the space between the top of the overflow and the emergency ? 1.5'' is it enought without flooding the floor ? Thanks, |
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09/25/2018, 07:10 PM | #9815 |
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Unfortunately I am not well versed in this design. I understand it, & the principal behind it, but not on the nuts & bolts of how it works because I run something different.
This is a long thread here on RC that can probably answer all your questions. I would go back to the first page & go on from there.
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250 gallon mixed reef, 2 Reefbreeder's Photon V 2, Deepwater BLDC 12, DAS EX-3 Skimmer, MTC mini cal, 2-3/4" Sea Swirls, Aquacontroller & 6 Tunze pumps. |
09/30/2018, 09:28 AM | #9816 |
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Ok so my Question is about gatevalve placement. I'm running a calflo overflow on a 2 ft high tank. The stand is 3 ft high. I would like to put my gatevalve about the bottom of the tank which is about halfway to the sump. I've read about it being ok at the top and bottom but cant find anything about how it works in the middle. The reason I'd like it there is I plan on switching to clear vynil tubing after the gatevalve and if I place it at bottom of tank/top of stand i can secure it very well to the stand. Any input is greatly appreciated.
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10/21/2018, 08:05 PM | #9817 | |
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Some of the framing of the house is steel that I have to make my way past. We were thinking of dropping the pipe under the steel to keep a downward flow. However, that will drop the pipe very low over a finished bathroom resulting in the shower stall being 6'6 in height. My question is - would it work to plumb the pipe above the steel. That would result in a peatrap effect with the pipe running something like this: ___ ______ . | | . |____________| Do you think that would work on both the drain pipes and return? I know a larger iwaki can handle the extra pressure but wondering about something like that interfering with the drain. Please let me know your thoughts. Edit - since my drawing doesn't make sense due to the way the forum gets rid of spaces I can go by the house this week and get pictures if my description doesn't make sense. |
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10/22/2018, 09:54 AM | #9818 |
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I'm not sure I understand how the pipe would run if it is above the steel, but I wouldn't be too concerned about a horizontal run with your 12' of total drop even if it has a small rise in the middle. Keep in mind that the flow will be dictated by your return so I would keep that at around 1500 gph there shouldn't be much of any buildup of detritus in the drop area. I would use 2" pipe for the drain to give yourself a good sized margin of error.
You can eliminate the small risk of an overflow in the tank from the unlikely event that the drains get clogged by designing your sump so that the total volume of the return section is less than the unused volume of the tank when normally operating. In my case, the return area is about 10gals and I calculated that I have almost 15 gallons of space between the normally operating water level and the very top of the tank. The other side of the equation is to make sure your sump can handle all of the water draining from the tank in the event the return pump stops. With 40' of 2" pipe and whatever the return lines will siphon back, that's a good amount of water you have to account for.
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10/22/2018, 10:16 AM | #9819 | |
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Small.jpg The pipes would all run perpendicular to the joists until the area in question. They would then make a 90 degree turn using a sweep and route up into the joist and over the air conditioning lines and steel support beam. The other option is to have the pipes run under everything but that makes the ceiling very low in the impacted areas. |
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10/22/2018, 10:28 AM | #9820 | |
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2-Yes in a perfect world (tip: This ain't a perfect world and never will be) BUT the airline gives you far more flexibility/adjustability so you can pinpoint the exact height in which the open channel converts over to full siphon.. Do the airline..
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10/22/2018, 10:29 AM | #9821 |
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If it were me, I would do it without worry. It’s not going to impact the flow and I doubt it would increase the chance of a clogging over time. You could put a clean out at the drop if you wanted for extra peace of mind.
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10/22/2018, 10:30 AM | #9822 | |
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It can cause minor differences with startup I believe but put it where you want to put it and don't look back..
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10/22/2018, 10:33 AM | #9823 | |
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10/22/2018, 10:43 AM | #9824 |
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10/26/2018, 12:44 PM | #9825 |
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393 pages....wow. So I just got my tank and have been doing my leak tests with some dry fit plumbing. Got my BA overflow system installed and running. You'd think after I'd read 392 pages I'd know exactly how to get it working but instead I spent an hour scratching my head trying to work out why it wasn't working....UNTIL I remembered you had to tune the siphon with a valve...et voila!
My question is and I'm sure I read this 100 + pages ago...when the BA system is working as intended, the only sounds you should hear is water trickling down the non-siphon channel. Is that correct? Also, I'm getting a few micro bubbles from the siphon into the sump...I'm guessing that's because somewhere I have an air leak in the plumbing along the line? Thanks all...awesome and epic thread! |
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beananimal, plumbing |
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