How to build a CO2 regulator for your calcium reactor.

[Mache62]

But how am I attaching the valve??

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[Mache62]

So the Swagelok tube adapter can go directly to the other end of the solenoid....but I'm still not sure how the valve attaches to that.

[LQT]

Originally Posted by Mache62

Ok now I'm really confused....so I attach the elbow to the regulator and have reduced the end of the elbow to 1/8. I have 1/8 nipples for either side of the solenoid.

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Oh, I didn’t see those threaded nipples in the initial picture that I was responding to... based on the layout in that initial picture, you should be able connect everything just fine with the nipples shown.

[LQT]

Originally Posted by Mache62

So the Swagelok tube adapter can go directly to the other end of the solenoid....but I'm still not sure how the valve attaches to that.

Yes, the threaded tube connector can go straight into the solenoid. Then attach the tube to the metering valve. Insert the tube into the hole on the retaining nut on the metering valve, press it in firmly and give the nut a 3/4 turn (for 1/8” tube fittings), see this video for reference...

[Mache62]

Ok I'll watch that. Thank you for being patient! Lol

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[LQT]

Originally Posted by Mache62

Ok I'll watch that. Thank you for being patient! Lol

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Just remember, for 1/8” fittings, it is a 3/4 turn... the video shows instructions for 1/4” to 1” fittings which require a 1 - 1/4 turn.

[Mache62]

hmm...what happens if I turn it too tight?

[LQT]

Originally Posted by Mache62

hmm...what happens if I turn it too tight?

I dunno, never tried. I do prefer to assemble these parts to spec though.

[Mache62]

So it's probably not the prettiest but hopefully it works! I have to wire the solenoid now.

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[Mache62]

Solenoid wires and tested. I connected the regulator to the bottle and I'll let it sit overnight to make sure it holds the pressure.

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[Mache62]

So this isn't supposed to happen...

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[bettatail]

the solenoid was overloaded and melt, did you use a 24V DC computer power adapter with this solenoid?
time to get another solenoid and the right power adapter, make sure the new solenoid is higher than 43 psi rating, around 100 psi will be ok, better if it is around 150 psi rating.

the swagelok S series metering valve is really good, but the brass 1/8 OD tube adapters are weak, if you accidentally bump the co2 system, it may break from the adapter.
I make my own custom adapters for 1/8 OD compression tube port.

you will probably need to order parts and work on the post body once again.

here is the list of the parts from the regulator to the air hose:
1. 1/4 male NPT to 1/8 male NPT hex nipple/reducer
2. solenoid(1/8 female npt ports)
3. 1/8 male npt to 1/8 male npt elbow.
4. Ideal valve, angle pattern with vernier handle.
5. 1/8 male NPT hex nipple
6. bubble counter.
if you don't need mounted bubble counter, skip step 5 and 6, and get a 1/8 male npt to hose barb adapter or a 1/8 male npt to 1/4 OD air hose push and pull quick connector.


In the picture is the custom adapters for the swagelok S series metering valve:

[LQT]

I recommended the Swagelok brass tube fittings because I believe Alan had mentioned way back in this thread that stainless tube fittings would not work with the brass compression nuts and ferrules found on that brass metering valve, as they are not strong enough to compress and lock in the stainless tubes.

That said, I much prefer all stainless for post body builds.

[LQT]

Here is a build that I just helped put together for a local Reefer.

Parts list:

Air Products E12-C445A nickel plated brass regulator
Stainless steel 2” CGA320 nut and nipple
Swagelok SS-4-A, 1/4” fpt x 1/4” mpt connector
Swagelok SS-4-HRN-2, 1/4” mpt x 1/8” mpt hex nipple
Burkert 6011a solenoid valve
2 Hoke 2SLP316, 1/8” street elbows
Swagelok SS-2-TA-1-2, 1/8” tube adapter
Nupro SS-SS2, 1/8” low flow metering valve
Swagelok SS-400-R-2, 1/8” to 1/4” tube connector

Here are all the parts laid out.



And here it is put together. Don’t mind the blue tape on the CGA nut, it’s so I don’t scratch the finish when I mount it to a tank to test it.

[Mache62]

@LQT @bettatail I really want to thank you for all the helpfulness and info!

When I burned up the solenoid, I burned it in the open position so am still able to deliver the CO2 to the reactor...if fact I am tickled at how tight I can regulate the flow.. .I have only a .02 variation in my reactor pH right now. Obviously I will need to keep an eye on it as I have no controller to shut it off.

Trying to find info on how to wire that solenoid was not easy and I did it completely wrong. I am wondering now if I buy another burkert 6011 will I just be able to swap out the electronic part and not have to redo the the while thing?

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[bettatail]

the solenoid is Normally Close, no matter the coil burned or not. the problem is that it just don't work because it is 43psi rating, and you set the regulator output pressure at 100+ psi, the solenoid can not hold it.
swap the coil don't work, it is still 43psi max rating.

do not use computer power adapter, it is the reason the solenoid burned. any cheap power adapter 24V DC and below 0.5A will be ok.

[bettatail]

Originally Posted by LQT

nice!

see if you can use 1/8 od polyurethane hose, one less expensive adapter and look better than 1/4 OD hose.

[LQT]

Originally Posted by bettatail

nice!

see if you can use 1/8 od polyurethane hose, one less expensive adapter and look better than 1/4 OD hose.

Thanks!

Pretty much all calcium reactors in the reefing hobby accept 1/4” (6mm) OD CO2 tubing, so I figure I keep it consistent.

[Mache62]

Originally Posted by bettatail

the solenoid is Normally Close, no matter the coil burned or not. the problem is that it just don't work because it is 43psi rating, and you set the regulator output pressure at 100+ psi, the solenoid can not hold it.
swap the coil don't work, it is still 43psi max rating.

do not use computer power adapter, it is the reason the solenoid burned. any cheap power adapter 24V DC and below 0.5A will be ok.

The 100+ psi was just overnight to make sure it was holding the pressure. I did however have it at 40psi when the solenoid burned. I have since turned it down to 10psi for delivery to the reactor.
Also, I ordered the suggested parts as well!



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[fisherman2]

I’m getting back into the hobby and want to start a diy build. I’m wondering if there is anything wrong with Matheson 3800 or is there a better ss option?

[cali9dub]

Originally Posted by fisherman2

I’m getting back into the hobby and want to start a diy build. I’m wondering if there is anything wrong with Matheson 3800 or is there a better ss option?

I have a Matheson and it’s rock solid. I’m very happy with it, been in constant use for almost 3 years so far


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[fisherman2]

Does anyone know if the Swagelok SS-4BMRC-VCR Metering Valve will work? I cannot find anything about this particular part number.

[LQT]

Originally Posted by fisherman2

Does anyone know if the Swagelok SS-4BMRC-VCR Metering Valve will work? I cannot find anything about this particular part number.

Look fir a metering valve with 1/4” or 1/8” tube connections. That metering valve you mentioned has VCR seal connections and I don’t believe it to be a low flow valve based on its model number.

[bettatail]

Originally Posted by fisherman2

Does anyone know if the Swagelok SS-4BMRC-VCR Metering Valve will work? I cannot find anything about this particular part number.

it is an diaphragm metering valve, the flow rate is too high.

[fisherman2]

Ok thanks for the information! I decided to go with a hoke 1300 and a parker veriflo IR4003s2K4P01404B for the reg. Does anyone know where to source a ss cga320 and how much they should cost?