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Unread 04/18/2018, 11:12 PM   #1
IUfan
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Unfinished area of basement advice for wall insulation

So my Home has an area of unfinished basement that will be perfect as a fish room as it’s directly behind where my tank will go.

There’s fiberglass blanket insulation on the outer wall, it’s not horrible as it’s wrapped in plastic, but I just don’t like that it’s not flat against the wall and uniform. It’s my OCD I guess.

I’ve read that your can pull this out and either a) hire a company to spray foam the wall, or b) use the Rigid foam against the wall. - problem with B is that most of the foam boards have huge logos on them, be nice if they were just plane white.

Anyone got any thoughts on what I should do?


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Unread 04/19/2018, 12:02 AM   #2
Gorgok
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A few sheets of drywall and fiberglass insulation is neatened up nicely....

Or is there nothing useful behind that stuff to attach to? (In which case i would frame it in and drywall that...)

Being able to mount junk to the walls later will be nice too.


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Unread 04/19/2018, 05:03 AM   #3
mcgyvr
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I would certainly second just putting drywall..
$100 and done..


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Unread 04/19/2018, 06:25 AM   #4
billdogg
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When I finished the basement I pulled all of that ugly crap down and then reused it after framing to fill the spaces between the studs. Drywall on top of that. Easy, warm and dry. I did drylok the block walls first justincase.


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Unread 04/19/2018, 08:48 AM   #5
IUfan
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I like the idea of pulling it out, framing it and re-using it between the framing and drywall.

Being able to use the walls to mount stuff is another good reason for sure.


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Unread 04/19/2018, 09:25 AM   #6
IUfan
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I’m sorry, I’m not much of a diy person. Any advice for handling the fiberglass insulation? Will Rubber gloves eye-protection, dust mask be all I need? I know fiberglass can be pretty nasty stuff


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Unread 04/19/2018, 09:39 AM   #7
mcgyvr
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Pfft.... amateurs..
Gloves is really all you need.. and you don't even need that..

I'd be bare handed in shorts and flipflops doing that little bit of work...
Worst case really is a bit of itching.. It will go away by tomorrow..

Now do it 8 hours a day every day of the week.. ok.. sure.. dust mask/gloves/coveralls..

You won't be disturbing much.. just handle the plastic and don't eat the fiberglass thinking its cotton candy and you will be just fine..


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Unread 04/19/2018, 09:42 AM   #8
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And a tip on the drywall..
Run it vertically (so the 8ft sides are running vertical) and avoid as much as possible cutting down the 4ft side to keep that pressed down factory edge in place as much as possible.. Try to use whole pieces as much as possible...
It makes taping after SO much easier if its all factory edge to factory edge...

And 3 thin coats on the joint compound.. Don't go overboard...


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Unread 04/19/2018, 09:52 AM   #9
davocean
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Actually drywall should be installed horizontally, that is the correct way, it lands on more studs his way, gives more shear strength, and rides over deviations of framing better.

I would also advise wearing at least a dust mask when dealing w/ fiberglass insulation, I know I cough like crazy if I don't.

I also would drywall that area.


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Unread 04/19/2018, 09:58 AM   #10
Dmorty217
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I have the fiberglass insulation in my unfinished part of my basement which is also my fish room (1000g of water or so). Stuff works well IMO


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Unread 04/19/2018, 12:00 PM   #11
mcgyvr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davocean View Post
Actually drywall should be installed horizontally,
yes.
I was looking at the dimensions of the room thinking they may have less seams with a vertical orientation but horizontal is the better/preferred way usually..
I absolutely hate taping/joint work so I'm always looking at the least linear feet of tape.. But looking again horizontal would be less here too..


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Unread 04/19/2018, 12:10 PM   #12
tank o tang
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Here we used to do horizontal in residential and vertical in commercial. Don't know the reason why just was the way the boss said to do it.


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Unread 04/19/2018, 12:12 PM   #13
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And yes very thin first coat so your not sanding paper later


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Unread 04/19/2018, 12:28 PM   #14
davocean
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tank o tang View Post
Here we used to do horizontal in residential and vertical in commercial. Don't know the reason why just was the way the boss said to do it.
Typically commercial is metal studs and may matter less, you don't have the deviations as you do w/ wood.
If a board bows in or out, horizontal is usually a less abrupt hump in wall this way.

I too used to do install vertical until my drywall subs taught me the right way.
Of course hating taping and mudding myself now days I just let my subs do it all!( unless it's my own place)


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Current Tank Info: SCA 120g RR Starfire, Tunze silence 1073.02 return, 40g sump w/ fuge, SWC Extreme 160 cone skimmer,Geismann reflexx 4xT5, 2x Panorama Pro LED strips, Vortech MP40QD
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Unread 04/19/2018, 07:39 PM   #15
IUfan
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Thanks for the tips and advice guys! I’ll update you once it’s done.


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