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10/06/2014, 11:55 AM | #1 |
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Repairing blown TRIAC on the EB8
Following is how to repair a shorted TRIAC on the EB8 module for Apex Controller.
*****Disclaimer**** Taking this unit apart will most likely void any warranty you have and if your not careful or know what your doing you could destroy your Energy Bar. If your unit is under warranty be smart and send it back to Neptune for repairs. This is for the mechanically inclined and electrically skilled DIYer. Ok lets get started. First step verify you have a problem. WITH 120V POWER DISCONNECTED and AQUABUS disconnected, use an ohm meter and measure between the power and return pins on the outlet. A good TRIAC will read open a shorted one will not. Here is a good outlet in my case #2 Here is a bad one in my case #3 and #6 So on to dis-assembly First remove the 8 screws 4 on each side and the 2 screws on the top. Also remove the retaining ring around the breaker. The case is tight around the Aquabus connectors and you have to shimmy it out of there carefully. Next remove the two larger screws and nuts holding the ground wires to the chassis. This will separate the bottom case and you can set it aside. Now you can see the outlet sockets. You have to depress the retaining notches and separate the sockets a little and kind of work around the module until all 8 are free. You can see I've separated these a little working around. Once all 8 are free you can rotate the board off the top and see the TRIACs mounted to the heat sink in the middle. The back side You can directly measure them now top or bottom it's pins 1 and 2, pin 3 is the gate.
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10/06/2014, 11:56 AM | #2 |
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Remove the screws and nuts to remove the heat sink.
I started out attempting to use a hot air pencil as I always do at work however the board is cheap and it started to delaminate so I don't recommend this. Instead I cut the leads and wicked the holes out one by one old school style, lol. Once the parts are removed wick the holes clean. New parts Place the new parts in the holes I put some heat sink compound on the heat sink as this is common practice for these parts, however there was none from the factory. As you can see I pulled some of the terminals out to ease re-assembly, and I found it easier to screw from backside and nuts on front.
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10/06/2014, 11:58 AM | #3 |
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Trim your leads down and solder them.
Check with ohm meter just because Clean the board. You don't have to but I work in Mil-spec electronics and it's required. Flux is corrosive. I did end up removing the top case completely by unsoldering the wires. I found it easier to work on the board. Also if you pop out the outlet clips from the top it makes re-assembly easier. Re-install the board into the top case and secure with the 2 top screws and the breaker retainer. Re-install the top outlet clips. If you unsoldered the power wires re-attach them along with the ground wire to chassis by the board. Re-attach the ground wire to the bottom chassis and re-connect the two halves. Remember the spot by the USB connectors is tight be careful shimmying the case in there. Re-install all 8 screws and your done.
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10/06/2014, 12:08 PM | #4 |
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Very cool. Thanks for taking the time to document this.
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"My advise is, always look at their aquarium before you take their advise. Because alot of people give advise and they havnt got a clue" ~David Saxby~ "Only after the last tree's cut and the last river poisoned only after the last fish is caught will you find that money cannot be eaten" ~Lamb of God~ Current Tank Info: 125g DT, 45g sump ---- 57g Illuminata, custom sump |
10/06/2014, 12:15 PM | #5 |
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awesome!!
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10/06/2014, 05:13 PM | #6 |
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I verified when I got home from work everything works and now my 2 always on outlets actually switch off.
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10/08/2014, 08:00 PM | #7 |
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These are the sockets in case you mess them up or want to replace them.
http://www.onlinecomponents.com/schu...tml?p=12640096
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Hobby Experience: 9200ish gallons, 26 skimmers, and a handful of Kent Scrapers. Current Tank: Vortech Powered 600G SPS Tank w/ 100gal frag tank & 100g Sump. RK2-RK10 Skimmer. ReefAngel. Radium 20k. |
10/08/2014, 08:11 PM | #8 |
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Can you post a link to the replacement triac you used?
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10/08/2014, 08:20 PM | #9 |
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This is the same part as factory 600V rated
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...21-5-ND/654429 This is the part I used 800V rated http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...146-ND/2827080
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10/08/2014, 09:16 PM | #10 | |
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Quote:
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Steve My Tanks 50x30 ABS Tub & a 48x24 frag tank at the moment Steve's Reef 265 Build In Progress |
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10/09/2014, 12:55 PM | #11 |
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good job.
I know you closed your EB8 now, but just curious what the big square chip in this picture is? looks like an Atmel logo, wondering if it is an ATMega328. |
10/09/2014, 02:13 PM | #12 |
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It is an Atmel part, says
Atmel MEGA88PA AU 1048 It's clearer in another picture I have.
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10/09/2014, 02:24 PM | #13 |
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ok, that's exactly the same as a 328, but with half the eeprom and sram.
I know they claim aquabus is not I2C, but I suspect it is. pins 27 and 28 are the SDA and SCL pins. You can trace the pcb connection to the usb connectors. is that 6 pins (3x2 arrangement) at the upper right corner of the picture a 6 pin header on the other side? if so, that may be the ISCP connector to program the atmel chip. I figure if the program on the chip can be decoded, we can build custom aquabus devices. |
10/09/2014, 04:01 PM | #14 | |
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Quote:
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10/09/2014, 04:57 PM | #15 |
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Nice write up! Very detailed and easy to follow.
Looks like doughboy has a new project!
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Vince 300 gallon peninsula, return:RD3 Speedy 230, Turbo's Rev4 L2 Algae Turf Scrubber, (2) Gyre 150s, Advanced Acrylic sump, (4) Ocean Revive T247s, Apex (classic w/ black sticker;):D) |
12/18/2014, 11:15 PM | #16 |
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Awesome thread, I registered just to say thanks for sharing. Is there any chance you can post the other ICs' info? I'm curious how they did the current sensor.
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12/18/2014, 11:27 PM | #17 |
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Nice write up. Of all the things I've works on boards I have limited understand.
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12/19/2014, 09:06 AM | #18 | |
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Quote:
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 120 gallon, coast to coast overflow w/beananimal overflow. Waveline DC 10000 II return pump, 40 gal sump, Octopus XS200 skimmer, T5 lighting |
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12/22/2014, 06:16 PM | #19 |
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Ill be doing this over christmas if anybody needs any more detailed pictures of traces.
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12/22/2014, 10:15 PM | #20 | |
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Quote:
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Current stock list: Rocks and Sand Current Tank Info: 120g, 60g sump/fuge, Vertex Illumina 260, 2x Tunze 6105, Eheim 1262/1000, ReefOctopus XP2000, 2x 250w, 125lbs Key Largo, 90lbs Reef Flakes |
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12/23/2014, 12:52 AM | #21 |
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this is awesome! thank you.
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12/23/2014, 09:18 AM | #22 |
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Very detailed. Nice job. I'm wondering how this went bad in the first place? And it appears that someone else is about to do this. Is this a common occurrence?
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12/26/2014, 07:33 AM | #23 |
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Ya nice writeup, got myself an apex few weeks back and wondering about the circumstances surrounding yours? It looks pretty old from the pics?
Nice job though, thank you! |
12/26/2014, 08:22 AM | #24 |
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They seem to be a decent amount go bad. Often it's overloading them too. Only designed for 5A.
I plugged a shop vac in one and it fried it..not realizing it pulled like 11A. I have 3 eb 8 and have a total of 2 bad outlets. One my fault other not sure. One that went bad randomly was about 1.5 yr old. Rest are 4 yrs old and no issues. Last edited by ptreef; 12/26/2014 at 08:28 AM. |
06/01/2017, 05:51 AM | #25 |
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Amazing writeup. Thanks for sharing I'm sure I will use this at some point.
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