DIY Sump Design

[SFish]

Note



Note

[SFish]

Your set up uses biological media as a mechanical filter as well which is why it's going to fail. This doesn't even take into account that all that trapped waste is going to decay inside the media and cause an algae bloom.

[aSmallcat]

I ordered some k1 media today. When it comes in I'm going to test how well it moves under falling water from my overflow. Keep in mind it's buoyancy will change after it becomes properly colonized by bacteria. But at least I'll have a better idea if I'll need an air pump as well to facilitate enough movement.

[aSmallcat]

Originally Posted by SFish

Your set up uses biological media as a mechanical filter as well which is why it's going to fail. This doesn't even take into account that all that trapped waste is going to decay inside the media and cause an algae bloom.

What do you suggest I use as a mechanical filter? I could pre-filter with a sock or something.

[SFish]

First of all if you put this stuff in a mesh bag is it going to interfere with it tumbling? The mesh bag is also going to trap detritus. The big problem would be decaying material. Also if you just put the mesh bag by the pipe it's not going to work all that well anyway. Your going to end up channeling around it. These types of media's are a dime a dozen. A lot of them are BS. They are trying to do what live rock does. I would not have picked this media to begin with. You can do the same thing with a ceramic block with out the air pump bs. If you insist on using this stuff then yes I would put a filter sock first or something along those lines. If you really want a good system then I would put a small skimmer in. Forget about the filter sock and keep everything in suspension and let the skimmer take all the crap out. Less work and cleaner water. Also no risk vs a filter sock but you would have to do something to make sure nothing gets trapped in the media you have.

[aSmallcat]

Only the course, fine and chemical media will be bagged. The k1 would be free floating in chamber one blocked from traveling the sump by a plastic mesh at the top.

[aSmallcat]

The activated carbon will be in a tight mesh bag and the rest in very open mesh bags. The openings in the bags are only as small as they need to be in order to contain the media inside.

[aSmallcat]

Testing out my overflow and return. Everything looks good. I think I'll drill another hole in the overflow though for a backup drain. I'm using a ball valve to regulate so it could easily clog enough to cause a problem. A second unregulated pipe will solve that easy.

[SFish]

You never want to put a valve on an overflow pipe like that. For the very reason you stated. You need to regulate the flow at the return pump. That overflow is not meant to have two holes. It also looks like you have it going to slow. Not sure if that tank can be drilled for an overflow but it would have been safer to. HOB overflows can fail. If you can I would get rid of the 45 amd have the pipe go straight down. My guess is the return pump is to small. What does the head height curve say?

[aSmallcat]

Yeah the return pump could be bigger. There would be no point in regulating this one as it's already open full and not enough to keep up with my overflow.

Next size up it is.

[aSmallcat]

The 45 has to stay though. Straight down equals water on my floor instead of in my sump. I think I'll keep the ball balls too because though it may come in handy later during maintenance or if I want to move things around.

[aSmallcat]

Keep the ball valve*

[aSmallcat]

Hey check this out, my lucky day I guess I the pump..

"Refunded
There's no need to return your item. Your refund has been issued." - Amazon

[aSmallcat]

So the pump I have right now is rated for about 160 gph. Think I should upgrade to 264 or 396 gph? I'd like to use the same pump type because they are quiet and durable.

The pf-nano overflow is rated at 200 gph.

[SFish]

Get rid off the ball valve on the overflow. That rating on the pump is for 0 head pressure so you will not be pumping at that speed. You have to look at the pump curve. Here is an example of one

[SFish]

My guess is that pump doesn't have one because it's a powerhead.

[aSmallcat]

Thanks for that chart it's a nice reference. I ended up going with the pump rated for 396 gph. Should still be plenty at the maybe three foot rose I've got.

[aSmallcat]

Here's a link to the pump.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0018...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[NanoReefWanabe]

The valve on the overflow is an obstruction waiting to happen... no need for it... when doing maintenance the pump will be off anyway

[Clowning_Around]

Ball valve not needed but I have one myself, I leave it fully open so its as of its not there restricting any flow. Why a ball valve then you may ask, I have a union below it so I can be lazy and pause my siphon as oppose to reprime when I want to disassemble. I also have my feed line more into the sump, so if I need to move my sump for any reason I can easily remove the last section on the way. Unions are great, you might want to consider adding them to your design. Regarding pump sizing don't use the chart posted as a generic guide, you should always check against your specific pumps literature as they vary greatly between makes and models, this info is usually on there website. FWIW your feed opening is to close to your sumps top edge (vertically) fo my taste, I prefer more engagement to avoid any chance of a mess but that maybe just me

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

[SFish]

Originally Posted by aSmallcat

Thanks for that chart it's a nice reference. I ended up going with the pump rated for 396 gph. Should still be plenty at the maybe three foot rose I've got.

You would be surprised how much flow you are losing. That chart is not for the pump you have. You have to look up the chart for your pump. Also your pump is going to have an even greater loss in flow then normal because it's not made to be a return pump. Do your self a favor and cancel the order and get your self the proper pump. I would spread the overflow and return out. One on each side of the tank.

[SFish]

By the way you know the baffles are going to have to be glass for that sump right?

[aSmallcat]

This is the chart for those pumps. I'm not near its height limit so I'm not worried about this one. I ordered the first one because it was rated less than the overflow. I didn't want the pump to overwhelm it. But that was before I was familiar with the gurgling sound of an overflow without enough flow. Also I didn't know about reducing the flow from the pump via a valve. Seeing as it's apparently common practice I assume it's not too hard on the pump.

By the way, why do you think the baffles must be glass for this build?

[SFish]

That's not the pump curve. That doesn't tell you the flow loss at 3'. In fact that doesn't even really tell you the flow at 0'. All they do is put the pump in a tank and see how high the water sprays to get the max head height. That's with no friction.

[SFish]

The baffles have to be glass because the tank is glass. Acrylic won't bond to glass.