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Unread 12/01/2010, 02:12 PM   #1
BradMugs
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90 Gal Build

I've looked and read and now I need direct help. My 55 is leaking. Got that under control, for now, and I got a great deal on a new 90 glass (48L X 18D X 25H - D= deep, front to back) and I want to build a stand for it with the following requirements

1 - I want the tank up high enough to see into w/o sitting on the floor (like my old stand). Also, that would allow me to put my skimmer inside the stand. My skimmer is 28" tall and I need at least 2" to take the top off.

2 - I would like to put my old 55 under there for a sump, once I get the leak fixed - so I can't build it into the stand, it's got to be removble. 48L X 13D X 21.5H

3 - For ease of use/cleaning etc I want all 4 sides optional (removable) ie, they can't be part of the supporting structure. I plan on attaching 1/4" plywood with industrial strength velcro so a quick on and off.

4 - no vertical support braces in the front (again for access and ability to remove sump).

I've got a good friend that builds cabinets, amoung other things, for a living and he is going to help me but he's never built to hold this much weigth and I'm looking for tried designs.

What I'm thinking for the front span is using 2X6 lumber with 2X4's ever where else (doubled up for 4X4 legs).

If there is a 2x4 brace across the bottom and a 2X6 across the top I'll need to have 23" between them at least to get the 55 in and out. Is a stand that is 33 to 36 inches too tall as to be unstable?

If I make it 5 feet long is there anything to be concerned about?

Thanks

Brad

PS I will try to document and post what's happening but I don't have a lot of time if my 55 gives out.....


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Unread 12/01/2010, 05:51 PM   #2
BradMugs
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No responses? Any help out there?


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Unread 12/01/2010, 06:52 PM   #3
uncleof6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BradMugs View Post
I've looked and read and now I need direct help. My 55 is leaking. Got that under control, for now, and I got a great deal on a new 90 glass (48L X 18D X 25H - D= deep, front to back) and I want to build a stand for it with the following requirements

1 - I want the tank up high enough to see into w/o sitting on the floor (like my old stand). Also, that would allow me to put my skimmer inside the stand. My skimmer is 28" tall and I need at least 2" to take the top off.

2 - I would like to put my old 55 under there for a sump, once I get the leak fixed - so I can't build it into the stand, it's got to be removble. 48L X 13D X 21.5H

You will have to rebuild the 55 from concept to reliably stop it from leaking. leaking says the structural seam is compromised. Consider replacing it, rebuildinjg is a huge project.

3 - For ease of use/cleaning etc I want all 4 sides optional (removable) ie, they can't be part of the supporting structure. I plan on attaching 1/4" plywood with industrial strength velcro so a quick on and off.

4 - no vertical support braces in the front (again for access and ability to remove sump).

I've got a good friend that builds cabinets, amoung other things, for a living and he is going to help me but he's never built to hold this much weigth and I'm looking for tried designs.

What I'm thinking for the front span is using 2X6 lumber with 2X4's ever where else (doubled up for 4X4 legs).

If there is a 2x4 brace across the bottom and a 2X6 across the top I'll need to have 23" between them at least to get the 55 in and out. Is a stand that is 33 to 36 inches too tall as to be unstable?

If I make it 5 feet long is there anything to be concerned about?

The stand must fit the foot print of the tank. You need direct vertical support under the four corners of the tank.

Thanks

Brad

PS I will try to document and post what's happening but I don't have a lot of time if my 55 gives out.....
A 3/4" plywood box is more than strong enough to hold up the tank--without the use of dimensioned lumbar. In terms of load vs wood strength--- this is a small load. A plywood box will allow the maximum possible interior space, but unless you take risks, the sump will not fit, without some small extension of the ends, as long as the four corners are where they need to be--directly under the corners of the tank, there should not be a problem.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...readid=1213499

Read through the thread, you will find that the lumber he did use was not necessary.


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Unread 12/01/2010, 07:28 PM   #4
BradMugs
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Uncleof6,
Thanks - my thoughts about the 55 - the leak is in top 1/4 of tank, if I keep water level below that would I be OK or do you believe the leak will spread?

If I were to brace/leg under 4 corners and just extend the length beyoned the corners would that work? The extra debth should allow my 55 or other to extend beyond the length of the tank - would that work? If not I'll build as big as the 4 corners allow and get somethign to fit.

OH, will the 2X6 be sufficent to go across w/o a center support or ???


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Unread 12/01/2010, 07:37 PM   #5
uncleof6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BradMugs View Post
Uncleof6,
Thanks - my thoughts about the 55 - the leak is in top 1/4 of tank, if I keep water level below that would I be OK or do you believe the leak will spread?

A tank with a compromised structural seam is a rebuild or a reptile habitat.


If I were to brace/leg under 4 corners and just extend the length beyoned the corners would that work? The extra debth should allow my 55 or other to extend beyond the length of the tank - would that work? If not I'll build as big as the 4 corners allow and get somethign to fit.

As long as the bracing goes around the corner (L-shaped corner) Easy to do with plywood and accommodate your sump with extension. Lumber stands are not as easy to build as it appears. It is critical that the top rim be dead flat, and the corners co-planer. A cabinet maker can do it. The plywood is simpler and gives more room over all.


OH, will the 2X6 be sufficent to go across w/o a center support or ???

Overkill. The tank is supported at the four corners. Rimless tanks need other considerations though.



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Current Tank Info: 325 6' wide Reef
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Unread 12/01/2010, 09:54 PM   #6
BradMugs
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OK, Thanks - I've seen the plywood build - I'm sure it's safe but........ Sure scares me to think about it.....

Fatherof5Grandfatherof3.5


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Unread 12/01/2010, 11:05 PM   #7
uncleof6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BradMugs View Post
OK, Thanks - I've seen the plywood build - I'm sure it's safe but........ Sure scares me to think about it.....

Fatherof5Grandfatherof3.5
Scares you because you believe that tiny tank is actually heavy. I had a 240 and a 300 on plywood stands, both rimless and glass. These are small loads... Plus numerous smaller tanks. In the end though, you have to be comfortable. I am just telling you what you can do safely. Take a look at the wimpy stands the manufacturers make, and void the tank warranty if you DON'T use them. Sure a ploy to sell them, but also if it fails.... they eat it.... food for thought.

Fatherof?


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Current Tank Info: 325 6' wide Reef
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Unread 12/05/2010, 09:30 PM   #8
BradMugs
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OK, the stand is built (no pictures) went up very, very fast with the help of a friend - OK I helped him by feeding him dinner.

Anyway, next question - how does one best get a 90 gal glass tank down a flight of typical house stairs to a basement? Driving my self nuts about this. About ready to let my 19 year old son and his friends do it while I'm at work.

Anything to be aware of - I know you can't grab it by the top rim and do it the easy way. Got to be supported from the bottom. But for the guy going down first it looks like he'll end up with MOST of the weight as I can't see how to keep it level.

Ideas or examples on how you did it?


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Unread 12/05/2010, 10:05 PM   #9
jcw
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I really overbuilt my stand for my 120gal. It's got 4x4 at the corners and two layers of 2x4 along the edges. With a 1" oak wood facing. Unfortunately, I had to make the sump and refugium separately and the sump cannot be removed from the stand.

I figured that the saltwater alone at 1.025 g/ml weighs over 1000 pounds. Add the tank and rocks and sand and equipment and the total is probably close to 1200 pounds. About two good sized motorcycles.


Anyway, I wish I could remove the sump, but can deal with it like this.

My wife and I slid the 120 glass tank downstairs, but our stairs are carpeted and I'm a little pigheaded. Slow and steady and it made it fine. Even managed to lift it up the stand.


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Unread 12/05/2010, 10:12 PM   #10
BradMugs
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thought about sliding but it's wood not carpet... Also though of making a sled of 2X4's a little longer than the tank and supporting the outer edges with a 2X4 stop in front of the tank and one behind to keep everything together. Still how do you keep it from running down the bottom person - I know use my son......


other ideas?


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Unread 12/05/2010, 10:23 PM   #11
jcw
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Maybe some carpet remnants under the sled would provide some resistence. On carpet, I never got the sense that it was going to run me over. On wood stairs, though, it may be a different story.


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Unread 12/05/2010, 11:12 PM   #12
Chrome239
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I used a 2 wheel dolly with a blanket on it. tilted the tank up on one end, slid the dolly under with blanket between the tank and the dolly. (bottom of the tank on one of the short ends.) Just took it real slow down each step. Been set up 4 years now with no problems or leaks. The tank was a 90. 48 long 24 high 18 front to back. Girl friend was on the bottom helping just for balance.


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Unread 12/07/2010, 06:32 PM   #13
BradMugs
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Thanks for all the recommendations on how to move it. I got my son and his friend to move it while I didn't watch. They just picked it up and carried it down the stairs and put it on the stand. The tank is level and filled with water and salt has been added.

Thanks, more questions to come...


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Unread 12/07/2010, 06:40 PM   #14
BradMugs
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Now to think about moving old tank stock. They are alive but I'm sure stressed to the max. The old tank is holding about 25 gal of the old water, fish, corals and rocks that I could keep wet. The softies are actually looking very good.

Anyway, for the move - can I just take and move everything (rock, sand, inverts, fish and water) all at once or do I have to do it slowly? Every day that goes by I'm afraid there is going to be a crash and everthing will go?

Then about the stuff I lost - My corals that were above water level when I discovered the leak is all toast, the smell got bad so it's outside in buckets of tank water (it's 40 degrees out during the day). One of the buckets is all rock the other two each contain one coral (that's all that would really fit). What are my options with the rock/coral can it be used, what process do I have to go through to get them ready to use?

Thanks again.


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Unread 12/08/2010, 09:00 AM   #15
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the only thing i can assure you of is if you move your sand you are going to cycle a bit. This won't kill any xenia tho.. we bought contents of a 75 couple years ago, put sand in a 40 breeder and a 46? hex, lost the Mandarin, a few crabs, but the candy canes, xenia, button polyps survived. We put a the hammer and frogspawn in our running 46 bow so they lived fine.
You could move sand and place rocks, and let it run, keep corals, fish, most inverts, separate in old tank water and keep warm and lit until water param checks out.(what I would do anyway)


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Unread 12/08/2010, 07:49 PM   #16
BradMugs
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Sounds reasonable
anyone have an idea on how long a cycle I'm looking at? Wife is looking at new carpeting in the old fish room......


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