Building my own canopy with lights....

Clownfish101 · 11/17/1999, 03:11 AM

As of now I have a 55 gallon aquariam with two perfecto hoods that only allow one bulb per hood. I am thinking of building my own canopy with lights. I know nothing about ballasts,endcaps, etc etc. Any help would be greatly apprecitated ! I am only 15 so you ge the idea. I plan on using Plywood then stain it the color of my aquariam, would that be ok ? Also could I use those kind of "ballasts" that people put over there kitchen sink ? Really I dont know how to wire those either ! lol ~ Please help ! I think doing it this way will be much cheaper then buying a canopy its self and I can have more lights ! I want to be able to have at least 4 lights on my tank , and eliminate my "side by side" lights. Since there will be no hoods over the tank besides the canopy shoud I use something to cover the lights to prevent water from evaporation getting on them ? ALL FEEDBACK APPRECITATED ! thanx ! hotkyprep1@aol.com

Joez · 11/17/1999, 07:49 AM

Hi,

There are different ways to go depending on how much you want to spend, how handy you are, and what you want to keep in your tank (please decide what you want in the tank before you buy the lighting; some creatures require a lot, other less).

My DIY lighting cost about $350 (100/MH bulb, 20/actinic bulb, 25 fan, 85 lumber and hardware), and my aquarium power bill per month (mostly lights, but also including heater and power heads) is $30.

I am medium to low on the international handiness scale. On my 75g, I constructed a pine canopy. I built a frame for it that sits on top of my tank (make sure you leave room for stuff like tubes, etc. entering the tank from the back if you have that kind of stuff). I used 12" wide wood for the facing, letting it hang about 1" below the top of the (acrylic) tank. I hinged a top to it with a handle, and cut a hole in one side for a fan I installed. I did not put the wood facing on the back so I had a better opportunity to work back there and add stuff if I needed without cutting the wood. I did cover the back though to cut down on light and noise leakage. I used a thin (half-inch) sheet of styrofoam. Then I bought a "retro kit". This one included the ballasts, fittings, and reflector for two actinics and two MH lights. All I had to do to install it was screw it into the bottom of the lid, insert the bulbs, and connect the wires (very easy). I stained the outside surfaces of the canopy. The lights are abou 7" above the water. I do not cover the top of the tank because I don't get splash that high, and because I want to encourage gas exchange at the surface. That means more topping off, but I think it maximizes gas exchange and light reaching the water. I also installed a 4" fan (blowing in) to help cool the MH bulbs and the water.

So that's generally what I did. As for your specific questions:

Stained plywood? Yes, it's OK. I would just do the outside; the salty air and lights will "stain" the inside for you. I haven't seen any warping on mine over the past year.

Kitchen sink ballasts? Maybe, but probably not. It depends on the lights you need/choose. There are threads around with DIY schemes that I think work, but it means cobbling together stuff from the hardware store. I spent a little more but had less work to do. My ballast for actinics is quite heavy and sits on floor (protected) under my tank. My MH ballast is very heavy and occupies a similar space. The kitchen sink ballast will only drive a very weak light, and you most likely will need medium to strong light. For me, the two biggest and most necessary expenses for a tank are a skimmer and lighting.

Cover lights? I don't as mentioned above, but some people do. Just keep the cover as clean (from salt accumulation) as you can if you do use them.

Clownfish101 · 11/17/1999, 07:54 AM

Thankyou very much for all the info ! Well I dont plan to keep anemones or any corals that require vho or mh lighs... all i want to add is an actinic blue , 50/50, a daylight ,and i will have space for one more bulb.....so in that area would the "over the kitchen sink" ballast work ? I will have help with the wiring of the ballast because i have no experience in that area.... thanx for the help !

FOX · 11/17/1999, 07:58 AM

Clownfish,

I'm 99% sure I have a few normal output flourescent ballasts in my basement still. I used them on a 75 gallon tank that I don't have anymore. I believe I have two that will run 2 36" bulbs and 2 that will run 1 48" bulb a piece. If you want them, make me an offer. They're not doing me any good sitting there.

FOX

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members.xoom.com/KoryFox/index.htm

scs · 11/17/1999, 03:19 PM

Would definately seal the inside of the canopy. Plywood is made by glueing thin pieces of wood together and only the outdoor rated wood uses moisture resistant glue. Even the outdoor rated will come apart in the continuous wet conditions of a canopy. Many use polyurethane but I believe a 2 part epoxy will give you a more water resistant seal for a longer perid of time and can be found in white which will help reflect more light into the tank.
The "over the kitchen sink ballast" will work if they are rated for the length and wattage of your bulb. Use a water proof endcap available at your local lfs or online. Wiring diagrams are usually on the ballast and simple to follow.
You will possibly decide to upgrade the lighting eventually so build the canopy tall enough to accomodate higher heat lighting if you decide to go that route at a later date. Mh lights should be around 8 to 10 inches above the water.
hth
steve

rayjay · 11/18/1999, 01:26 AM

First things first. Get someone you know that has electrical knowledge to help you with the electrical part of the hood. It won't help to be dead wrong.
I'm assuming your 55g is four ft long, and you can put up to 6 40w NO florescent tubes, wall to wall in a hood for this tank, giving you as much light as you'll require.
Seal the inside of the hood with a two part epoxy paint if possible.
Ballasts are available at Home depot and other places; here they're about 12.99 each Canadian for one ballast to power 2 40w tubes. You can make your own end caps if they're too expensive to buy in your area. (see link on my website for "endcaps")
If you're not going to "remote" mount the ballasts, recess the "top" low enough down in the sides so that the ballast and cooling fan (computer fan) can be located on the top side of the hood and the sides will hide them. Of course, you need two holes about 3" dia for venting and cooling, with the fan over one of these. I find LFS special florescent lighting to be too expensive for my wallet so I use one Philips actinic 03 for every 3 or 4 tubes of GE Daylight Ultra. The actinic I buy at the LFS for 16.00 cdn and the GE's I buy at Walmart for 3.98 cdn.
Some make say you need metal halide, but my tanks (as the pics show) have done well for nearly 6 yrs now with just NO lighting.

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11/17/1999, 03:11 AM	#1
Clownfish101 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1999 Location: Owensboro, KY USA Posts: 35	As of now I have a 55 gallon aquariam with two perfecto hoods that only allow one bulb per hood. I am thinking of building my own canopy with lights. I know nothing about ballasts,endcaps, etc etc. Any help would be greatly apprecitated ! I am only 15 so you ge the idea. I plan on using Plywood then stain it the color of my aquariam, would that be ok ? Also could I use those kind of "ballasts" that people put over there kitchen sink ? Really I dont know how to wire those either ! lol ~ Please help ! I think doing it this way will be much cheaper then buying a canopy its self and I can have more lights ! I want to be able to have at least 4 lights on my tank , and eliminate my "side by side" lights. Since there will be no hoods over the tank besides the canopy shoud I use something to cover the lights to prevent water from evaporation getting on them ? ALL FEEDBACK APPRECITATED ! thanx ! hotkyprep1@aol.com

11/17/1999, 07:49 AM	#2
Joez Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Posts: 1,700	Hi, There are different ways to go depending on how much you want to spend, how handy you are, and what you want to keep in your tank (please decide what you want in the tank before you buy the lighting; some creatures require a lot, other less). My DIY lighting cost about $350 (100/MH bulb, 20/actinic bulb, 25 fan, 85 lumber and hardware), and my aquarium power bill per month (mostly lights, but also including heater and power heads) is $30. I am medium to low on the international handiness scale. On my 75g, I constructed a pine canopy. I built a frame for it that sits on top of my tank (make sure you leave room for stuff like tubes, etc. entering the tank from the back if you have that kind of stuff). I used 12" wide wood for the facing, letting it hang about 1" below the top of the (acrylic) tank. I hinged a top to it with a handle, and cut a hole in one side for a fan I installed. I did not put the wood facing on the back so I had a better opportunity to work back there and add stuff if I needed without cutting the wood. I did cover the back though to cut down on light and noise leakage. I used a thin (half-inch) sheet of styrofoam. Then I bought a "retro kit". This one included the ballasts, fittings, and reflector for two actinics and two MH lights. All I had to do to install it was screw it into the bottom of the lid, insert the bulbs, and connect the wires (very easy). I stained the outside surfaces of the canopy. The lights are abou 7" above the water. I do not cover the top of the tank because I don't get splash that high, and because I want to encourage gas exchange at the surface. That means more topping off, but I think it maximizes gas exchange and light reaching the water. I also installed a 4" fan (blowing in) to help cool the MH bulbs and the water. So that's generally what I did. As for your specific questions: Stained plywood? Yes, it's OK. I would just do the outside; the salty air and lights will "stain" the inside for you. I haven't seen any warping on mine over the past year. Kitchen sink ballasts? Maybe, but probably not. It depends on the lights you need/choose. There are threads around with DIY schemes that I think work, but it means cobbling together stuff from the hardware store. I spent a little more but had less work to do. My ballast for actinics is quite heavy and sits on floor (protected) under my tank. My MH ballast is very heavy and occupies a similar space. The kitchen sink ballast will only drive a very weak light, and you most likely will need medium to strong light. For me, the two biggest and most necessary expenses for a tank are a skimmer and lighting. Cover lights? I don't as mentioned above, but some people do. Just keep the cover as clean (from salt accumulation) as you can if you do use them.

11/17/1999, 07:54 AM	#3
Clownfish101 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1999 Location: Owensboro, KY USA Posts: 35	Thankyou very much for all the info ! Well I dont plan to keep anemones or any corals that require vho or mh lighs... all i want to add is an actinic blue , 50/50, a daylight ,and i will have space for one more bulb.....so in that area would the "over the kitchen sink" ballast work ? I will have help with the wiring of the ballast because i have no experience in that area.... thanx for the help !

11/17/1999, 07:58 AM	#4
FOX Awaiting Email Confirmation Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Palmyra, Virginia, U.S.A. Posts: 1,035	Clownfish, I'm 99% sure I have a few normal output flourescent ballasts in my basement still. I used them on a 75 gallon tank that I don't have anymore. I believe I have two that will run 2 36" bulbs and 2 that will run 1 48" bulb a piece. If you want them, make me an offer. They're not doing me any good sitting there. FOX ------------------ members.xoom.com/KoryFox/index.htm

11/17/1999, 03:19 PM	#5
scs Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Lubbock, Tx Posts: 88	Would definately seal the inside of the canopy. Plywood is made by glueing thin pieces of wood together and only the outdoor rated wood uses moisture resistant glue. Even the outdoor rated will come apart in the continuous wet conditions of a canopy. Many use polyurethane but I believe a 2 part epoxy will give you a more water resistant seal for a longer perid of time and can be found in white which will help reflect more light into the tank. The "over the kitchen sink ballast" will work if they are rated for the length and wattage of your bulb. Use a water proof endcap available at your local lfs or online. Wiring diagrams are usually on the ballast and simple to follow. You will possibly decide to upgrade the lighting eventually so build the canopy tall enough to accomodate higher heat lighting if you decide to go that route at a later date. Mh lights should be around 8 to 10 inches above the water. hth steve

11/18/1999, 01:26 AM	#6
rayjay Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: London, Ontario, Canada Posts: 3,969	First things first. Get someone you know that has electrical knowledge to help you with the electrical part of the hood. It won't help to be dead wrong. I'm assuming your 55g is four ft long, and you can put up to 6 40w NO florescent tubes, wall to wall in a hood for this tank, giving you as much light as you'll require. Seal the inside of the hood with a two part epoxy paint if possible. Ballasts are available at Home depot and other places; here they're about 12.99 each Canadian for one ballast to power 2 40w tubes. You can make your own end caps if they're too expensive to buy in your area. (see link on my website for "endcaps") If you're not going to "remote" mount the ballasts, recess the "top" low enough down in the sides so that the ballast and cooling fan (computer fan) can be located on the top side of the hood and the sides will hide them. Of course, you need two holes about 3" dia for venting and cooling, with the fan over one of these. I find LFS special florescent lighting to be too expensive for my wallet so I use one Philips actinic 03 for every 3 or 4 tubes of GE Daylight Ultra. The actinic I buy at the LFS for 16.00 cdn and the GE's I buy at Walmart for 3.98 cdn. Some make say you need metal halide, but my tanks (as the pics show) have done well for nearly 6 yrs now with just NO lighting. ------------------