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Unread 09/13/2015, 06:15 PM   #8701
n8n
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jason2459 View Post
You don't want the drains very deep at all in the sump. Mine are just barely underwater.
This is my sump setup. The bean animal is color coded in back and in sump. The coiled hose is connected to salt water mixing station in garage. I have a new skimmer on order and some other stuff to move from old tank.

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Unread 09/13/2015, 06:29 PM   #8702
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How far into the water are the drain lines? I can't tell by that picture?


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Unread 09/13/2015, 07:17 PM   #8703
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How far into the water are the drain lines? I can't tell by that picture?


Maybe 7 inches lol. Like I was saying with the bent pipe I don't think it can get to full siphon. If I leave it straight pipe it can. As weird as it so however if I close the main pipe the secondary can get to full syphon even though drain is same depth.

Either way it's silent, if I close off the main the secondary works. I'm pleased with water line. I think I'm going to leave well enough alone. Probably leave them dry fit in overflow for awhile and then decide later if I really want to glue them in overflow.

Thanks


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Unread 09/13/2015, 07:20 PM   #8704
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If that's running in that picture I would just remove those pipes and that's about how much depth mine run in. No more then a 1/2"


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Unread 09/14/2015, 07:36 AM   #8705
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I second that. The bulkhead in the pic above is far enough under water to initiate and maintain the siphon, you don't need (or want) the pipe inserted into it.


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Unread 09/14/2015, 07:42 AM   #8706
n8n
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I second that. The bulkhead in the pic above is far enough under water to initiate and maintain the siphon, you don't need (or want) the pipe inserted into it.
Unfortunately they came like that in the sump and are glued to bulk head so if I want to shorten I will need to cut them off or replace bulk heads.

As it is everything is working with strainer ( with no fittings ) in middle drain instead of the down turned drain pipe


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Unread 09/14/2015, 03:32 PM   #8707
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GREAT Pics! thanks for the help!

L.R.
Nice work


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Unread 09/14/2015, 10:09 PM   #8708
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Beananimal x2

I've searched a while, although this is a pretty long thread. My question is: if you have an overflow on each end of your aquarium, can you set up two beananimal overflows or would the two siphons be too hard to set up reliably?
I'm getting a custom built 84"t ×30"h x24"w. We were talking of putting 2 holes in each side for drainage to the sump. Should I maybe get three per side? Can a run the system with two holes on one side and the third on the other.
I really like this design and want to use it, but from everything I've read, I'm convinced I need to have overflows on each side(which I don't mind doing). The tank will be built into a wall and views from both front and rear, so the overflows need to be on each ends.
Also any suggestions on what size holes to drill, I'd like to oversize and use gate valves so I'm not limited to flow whatsoever.
Any other tips will be welcomed.
Ps. I will be getting through this whole thread, but it may take a while.


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Unread 09/14/2015, 11:46 PM   #8709
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevinsrangers View Post
I've searched a while, although this is a pretty long thread. My question is: if you have an overflow on each end of your aquarium, can you set up two beananimal overflows or would the two siphons be too hard to set up reliably?

I'm getting a custom built 84"t ×30"h x24"w. We were talking of putting 2 holes in each side for drainage to the sump. Should I maybe get three per side? Can a run the system with two holes on one side and the third on the other.

I really like this design and want to use it, but from everything I've read, I'm convinced I need to have overflows on each side(which I don't mind doing). The tank will be built into a wall and views from both front and rear, so the overflows need to be on each ends.

Also any suggestions on what size holes to drill, I'd like to oversize and use gate valves so I'm not limited to flow whatsoever.

Any other tips will be welcomed.

Ps. I will be getting through this whole thread, but it may take a while.

I know I've read here a lot of times that splitting the plumbing does not work but I will be interested to read the comments concerning a possible 3 on each side ... If both overflows are at the same level I cannot see a reason for this not to function. Half of the flow should go over each side and be returned to the sump by the Bean return...


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Unread 09/15/2015, 02:31 PM   #8710
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Guys, I was wondering the reason some people opt for an external overflow with bulkheads/piping from the bottom of an external box and some people just use an internal weir and attach the bulkheads to the glass of the back of the tank?


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Unread 09/15/2015, 02:37 PM   #8711
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deancoxx View Post
Guys, I was wondering the reason some people opt for an external overflow with bulkheads/piping from the bottom of an external box and some people just use an internal weir and attach the bulkheads to the glass of the back of the tank?

You can achieve a lower profile in the tank by moving the plumbing to an external box. Other than this I cannot see different benefits.


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Unread 09/15/2015, 02:39 PM   #8712
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Originally Posted by Swope2bc View Post
You can achieve a lower profile in the tank by moving the plumbing to an external box. Other than this I cannot see different benefits.
Does this mean you can afford to use a smaller internal weir in the tank if you have an external box? Reason I ask is that both methods seem to have an internal box in the tank either way so maybe it's just smaller if you also have the external box too?


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Unread 09/15/2015, 03:01 PM   #8713
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Originally Posted by deancoxx View Post
Does this mean you can afford to use a smaller internal weir in the tank if you have an external box? Reason I ask is that both methods seem to have an internal box in the tank either way so maybe it's just smaller if you also have the external box too?

Smaller in that it intrudes into the inner tank space less. My weir is an angled CTC.





It takes up under 2" at the top and angles to nothing. Now that the tank is full you can hardly see it from the front.




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Unread 09/16/2015, 10:11 AM   #8714
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Originally Posted by Swope2bc View Post
It looks like everything is a bit high to me, someone with more experience will hopefully chime in but aren't all three supposed to be bellow the overflow weir?
The open channel and siphon must be below the weir of the overflow box. The emergency drain will be above them and, depending on several variables may or may not be at or above the weir level. It really depends on how much head space you have above the normal operating level of the system and the true flood level of the aquarium rim (trim, whatever).

Given that advice, you surely do not want the emergency intake at a level where you have zero or almost no head space above it and that flood level, as it can take some time to fully kick in.

The actual space needed is a function of the tank surface area, head space between normal operation and true flood, and the size of the return pump.


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Unread 09/16/2015, 11:42 AM   #8715
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My acrylic overflow box fell off. Not wanting to deal with this again, I made a glass coast to coast. Had to redo the return a little.

It is far far more quiet than the first rendition.

https://youtu.be/bhr5u6KS5Ms


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Unread 09/16/2015, 01:06 PM   #8716
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Bookmarking for later


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Unread 09/16/2015, 02:24 PM   #8717
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sizing question for a 40b - I will be drilling 2ea 1 3/4" holes ( would hold a 1" bulkhead but will leave bare) and wanted to know how big or small the external box should be. Right now I am leaning toward a 16" long x 5" wide by 9" tall. Is that too big?

I plan on running 3ea 1" drains


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Unread 09/16/2015, 02:31 PM   #8718
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Quote:
Originally Posted by usctrack View Post
sizing question for a 40b - I will be drilling 2ea 1 3/4" holes ( would hold a 1" bulkhead but will leave bare) and wanted to know how big or small the external box should be. Right now I am leaning toward a 16" long x 5" wide by 9" tall. Is that too big?

I plan on running 3ea 1" drains

I just made my external box CTC for simplicity but it just needs to be big enough to hold the plumbing.


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Unread 09/17/2015, 08:03 AM   #8719
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Does this mean you can afford to use a smaller internal weir in the tank if you have an external box? Reason I ask is that both methods seem to have an internal box in the tank either way so maybe it's just smaller if you also have the external box too?
Wow - several questions going on at once here. I'll try to keep things straight...

The thing that really matters with a weir is the the length. As was commented above, if you have an external box, you can have a very low profile internal weir that drains to the external weir via plain holes or bulkheads. Some people have even cut a groove or notch along the back of their tank to make the rear wall function as the weir with everything external.


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Unread 09/17/2015, 08:12 AM   #8720
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Quote:
Originally Posted by usctrack View Post
sizing question for a 40b - I will be drilling 2ea 1 3/4" holes ( would hold a 1" bulkhead but will leave bare) and wanted to know how big or small the external box should be. Right now I am leaning toward a 16" long x 5" wide by 9" tall. Is that too big?

I plan on running 3ea 1" drains
Is it going to be acrylic or glass? I'm assuming glass; otherwise you would need bulkheads to secure it to the tank.

The top of the box should be at or close to the top of the tank to make sure the box doesn't overflow before the tank does.

Length needs to be wider than your through holes, of course, and wide enough to hold the plumbing and get your hand in to clean it. Other than that there's no real advantage to having it wider; just more dead space to collect stuff.

Height needs to be enough to accommodate your plumbing. There are a couple different ways of doing an external bean, but pick your style, pick your fittings and then size the overflow.

Depth (front-back) needs to be enough for the fittings and wide enough that the glass won't break. Normal guidelines are one hole diameter between glass edges, so for 1" bulkheads ~ 1.75" holes you need a minimum of 5.25" front to back and 12.25" wide. Those guidelines are for bulkheads in tanks; I don't know if you can get away with smaller for an overflow.


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Unread 09/17/2015, 08:22 AM   #8721
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevinsrangers View Post
I've searched a while, although this is a pretty long thread. My question is: if you have an overflow on each end of your aquarium, can you set up two beananimal overflows or would the two siphons be too hard to set up reliably?
I'm getting a custom built 84"t ×30"h x24"w. We were talking of putting 2 holes in each side for drainage to the sump. Should I maybe get three per side? Can a run the system with two holes on one side and the third on the other.
I really like this design and want to use it, but from everything I've read, I'm convinced I need to have overflows on each side(which I don't mind doing). The tank will be built into a wall and views from both front and rear, so the overflows need to be on each ends.
Also any suggestions on what size holes to drill, I'd like to oversize and use gate valves so I'm not limited to flow whatsoever.
Any other tips will be welcomed.
Ps. I will be getting through this whole thread, but it may take a while.
From your description, it sounds like you want to keep overflows off the long walls of the tank for viewing purposes? I would agree, if you had a single 24" weir on one end that would be suboptimal.

Splitting a single Bean system between two sides doesn't work.

I've never heard of anyone doing dual Bean overflows. I suppose if you have 3 holes on each end and to separate weirs you could tune the Bean systems independently. The problem is that the tuning of each bean system is dependent on a relatively constant portion of the flow going over that side of the tank. The open channel alleviates this problem to a fair degree, so it may very well work. The other issue is that the two weirs need to be virtually exactly level with each other.

Try posting your question as a new thread to get suggestions from others who have similarly sized tanks.


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Unread 09/17/2015, 08:31 AM   #8722
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Originally Posted by Firochromis View Post
Hi dear members,

Do you see any problems using this plumping in the system whime the main tank has BeanAnimal drain system? Main tank has 1.5" pipes and BH, other tanks have 1" pipes and BHs. My return pump is a Red Dragon 10m3.



Regards
Your question kind of got lost a while back...

It appears that you are trying to run 3 tanks with 2 sumps (clown tank, main display tank and a fish only tank with a mangrove tanks and 'regular' sump.)

You have indicated a bean animal drain for the main tank, which should work fine as long as the flow to that tank is relatively constant. I have concerns about the other setups, though. you appear to have a passive 1" pipe flowing from the fish only to the mangrove tank, then a passive 1" drain from he mangrove through a chiller to the sump. It may work, but I would be worried about clogs in the 1" pipes. If the heights are as you have indicated, you won't get too much flow through them and they will be prone to collecting detritus, too.


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Unread 09/17/2015, 01:13 PM   #8723
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Originally Posted by sleepydoc View Post
Wow - several questions going on at once here. I'll try to keep things straight...

The thing that really matters with a weir is the the length. As was commented above, if you have an external box, you can have a very low profile internal weir that drains to the external weir via plain holes or bulkheads. Some people have even cut a groove or notch along the back of their tank to make the rear wall function as the weir with everything external.
Thanks, one more question I have is if I'm going to go with thin internal weir with external box, how would I go about cleaning the internal weir if it was only like 1-2 inches thick? Seems hard to fit fingers in there lol.

Also would I need to put some sort of material over the opening so no fish or snails get in?


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Unread 09/17/2015, 01:40 PM   #8724
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Originally Posted by deancoxx View Post
Thanks, one more question I have is if I'm going to go with thin internal weir with external box, how would I go about cleaning the internal weir if it was only like 1-2 inches thick? Seems hard to fit fingers in there lol.

Also would I need to put some sort of material over the opening so no fish or snails get in?
That's why you don't make it too thin! You only need an inch or so to get your hand in to clean it.

As far as snails go, you can put a screen or strainer over the through holes, put a strainer on the standpipes, or put a lid over the overflow with a lip that hangs down to about ¼" above the water level so any snails that get through are small enought not to cause problems


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Unread 09/17/2015, 02:46 PM   #8725
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That's why you don't make it too thin! You only need an inch or so to get your hand in to clean it.

As far as snails go, you can put a screen or strainer over the through holes, put a strainer on the standpipes, or put a lid over the overflow with a lip that hangs down to about ¼" above the water level so any snails that get through are small enought not to cause problems
I can't quite visualize the highlighted part but for either situation would gutter guard be the optimal material?


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