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09/13/2015, 06:15 PM | #8701 | |
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09/13/2015, 06:29 PM | #8702 |
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How far into the water are the drain lines? I can't tell by that picture?
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rebuild and recovery log: No more red house, you'll have to click on my name and visit my homepage! You can check out my parameters at reeftronics dot net website and look for my username. Current Tank Info: 180g mixed reef w/ a beananimal overflow to a dolomite RRUGF. | 20g long G. Smithii Mantis Tank |
09/13/2015, 07:17 PM | #8703 | |
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Maybe 7 inches lol. Like I was saying with the bent pipe I don't think it can get to full siphon. If I leave it straight pipe it can. As weird as it so however if I close the main pipe the secondary can get to full syphon even though drain is same depth. Either way it's silent, if I close off the main the secondary works. I'm pleased with water line. I think I'm going to leave well enough alone. Probably leave them dry fit in overflow for awhile and then decide later if I really want to glue them in overflow. Thanks |
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09/13/2015, 07:20 PM | #8704 |
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If that's running in that picture I would just remove those pipes and that's about how much depth mine run in. No more then a 1/2"
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rebuild and recovery log: No more red house, you'll have to click on my name and visit my homepage! You can check out my parameters at reeftronics dot net website and look for my username. Current Tank Info: 180g mixed reef w/ a beananimal overflow to a dolomite RRUGF. | 20g long G. Smithii Mantis Tank |
09/14/2015, 07:36 AM | #8705 |
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I second that. The bulkhead in the pic above is far enough under water to initiate and maintain the siphon, you don't need (or want) the pipe inserted into it.
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09/14/2015, 07:42 AM | #8706 | |
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As it is everything is working with strainer ( with no fittings ) in middle drain instead of the down turned drain pipe |
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09/14/2015, 03:32 PM | #8707 |
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09/14/2015, 10:09 PM | #8708 |
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Beananimal x2
I've searched a while, although this is a pretty long thread. My question is: if you have an overflow on each end of your aquarium, can you set up two beananimal overflows or would the two siphons be too hard to set up reliably?
I'm getting a custom built 84"t ×30"h x24"w. We were talking of putting 2 holes in each side for drainage to the sump. Should I maybe get three per side? Can a run the system with two holes on one side and the third on the other. I really like this design and want to use it, but from everything I've read, I'm convinced I need to have overflows on each side(which I don't mind doing). The tank will be built into a wall and views from both front and rear, so the overflows need to be on each ends. Also any suggestions on what size holes to drill, I'd like to oversize and use gate valves so I'm not limited to flow whatsoever. Any other tips will be welcomed. Ps. I will be getting through this whole thread, but it may take a while. |
09/14/2015, 11:46 PM | #8709 | |
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I know I've read here a lot of times that splitting the plumbing does not work but I will be interested to read the comments concerning a possible 3 on each side ... If both overflows are at the same level I cannot see a reason for this not to function. Half of the flow should go over each side and be returned to the sump by the Bean return... |
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09/15/2015, 02:31 PM | #8710 |
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Guys, I was wondering the reason some people opt for an external overflow with bulkheads/piping from the bottom of an external box and some people just use an internal weir and attach the bulkheads to the glass of the back of the tank?
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09/15/2015, 02:37 PM | #8711 | |
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You can achieve a lower profile in the tank by moving the plumbing to an external box. Other than this I cannot see different benefits. |
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09/15/2015, 02:39 PM | #8712 | |
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09/15/2015, 03:01 PM | #8713 | |
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Smaller in that it intrudes into the inner tank space less. My weir is an angled CTC. It takes up under 2" at the top and angles to nothing. Now that the tank is full you can hardly see it from the front. |
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09/16/2015, 10:11 AM | #8714 | |
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Given that advice, you surely do not want the emergency intake at a level where you have zero or almost no head space above it and that flood level, as it can take some time to fully kick in. The actual space needed is a function of the tank surface area, head space between normal operation and true flood, and the size of the return pump. |
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09/16/2015, 11:42 AM | #8715 |
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My acrylic overflow box fell off. Not wanting to deal with this again, I made a glass coast to coast. Had to redo the return a little.
It is far far more quiet than the first rendition. https://youtu.be/bhr5u6KS5Ms |
09/16/2015, 01:06 PM | #8716 |
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Bookmarking for later
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09/16/2015, 02:24 PM | #8717 |
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sizing question for a 40b - I will be drilling 2ea 1 3/4" holes ( would hold a 1" bulkhead but will leave bare) and wanted to know how big or small the external box should be. Right now I am leaning toward a 16" long x 5" wide by 9" tall. Is that too big?
I plan on running 3ea 1" drains
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09/16/2015, 02:31 PM | #8718 | |
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I just made my external box CTC for simplicity but it just needs to be big enough to hold the plumbing. |
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09/17/2015, 08:03 AM | #8719 | |
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The thing that really matters with a weir is the the length. As was commented above, if you have an external box, you can have a very low profile internal weir that drains to the external weir via plain holes or bulkheads. Some people have even cut a groove or notch along the back of their tank to make the rear wall function as the weir with everything external.
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 120 gallon, coast to coast overflow w/beananimal overflow. Waveline DC 10000 II return pump, 40 gal sump, Octopus XS200 skimmer, T5 lighting |
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09/17/2015, 08:12 AM | #8720 | |
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The top of the box should be at or close to the top of the tank to make sure the box doesn't overflow before the tank does. Length needs to be wider than your through holes, of course, and wide enough to hold the plumbing and get your hand in to clean it. Other than that there's no real advantage to having it wider; just more dead space to collect stuff. Height needs to be enough to accommodate your plumbing. There are a couple different ways of doing an external bean, but pick your style, pick your fittings and then size the overflow. Depth (front-back) needs to be enough for the fittings and wide enough that the glass won't break. Normal guidelines are one hole diameter between glass edges, so for 1" bulkheads ~ 1.75" holes you need a minimum of 5.25" front to back and 12.25" wide. Those guidelines are for bulkheads in tanks; I don't know if you can get away with smaller for an overflow.
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 120 gallon, coast to coast overflow w/beananimal overflow. Waveline DC 10000 II return pump, 40 gal sump, Octopus XS200 skimmer, T5 lighting |
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09/17/2015, 08:22 AM | #8721 | |
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Splitting a single Bean system between two sides doesn't work. I've never heard of anyone doing dual Bean overflows. I suppose if you have 3 holes on each end and to separate weirs you could tune the Bean systems independently. The problem is that the tuning of each bean system is dependent on a relatively constant portion of the flow going over that side of the tank. The open channel alleviates this problem to a fair degree, so it may very well work. The other issue is that the two weirs need to be virtually exactly level with each other. Try posting your question as a new thread to get suggestions from others who have similarly sized tanks.
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 120 gallon, coast to coast overflow w/beananimal overflow. Waveline DC 10000 II return pump, 40 gal sump, Octopus XS200 skimmer, T5 lighting |
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09/17/2015, 08:31 AM | #8722 | |
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It appears that you are trying to run 3 tanks with 2 sumps (clown tank, main display tank and a fish only tank with a mangrove tanks and 'regular' sump.) You have indicated a bean animal drain for the main tank, which should work fine as long as the flow to that tank is relatively constant. I have concerns about the other setups, though. you appear to have a passive 1" pipe flowing from the fish only to the mangrove tank, then a passive 1" drain from he mangrove through a chiller to the sump. It may work, but I would be worried about clogs in the 1" pipes. If the heights are as you have indicated, you won't get too much flow through them and they will be prone to collecting detritus, too.
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 120 gallon, coast to coast overflow w/beananimal overflow. Waveline DC 10000 II return pump, 40 gal sump, Octopus XS200 skimmer, T5 lighting |
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09/17/2015, 01:13 PM | #8723 | |
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Also would I need to put some sort of material over the opening so no fish or snails get in? |
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09/17/2015, 01:40 PM | #8724 | |
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As far as snails go, you can put a screen or strainer over the through holes, put a strainer on the standpipes, or put a lid over the overflow with a lip that hangs down to about ¼" above the water level so any snails that get through are small enought not to cause problems
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 120 gallon, coast to coast overflow w/beananimal overflow. Waveline DC 10000 II return pump, 40 gal sump, Octopus XS200 skimmer, T5 lighting |
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09/17/2015, 02:46 PM | #8725 | |
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