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Old 01/10/2017, 06:45 PM   #9251
Twinfallz
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Have started a thread in Advanced Topics - Does an Algae Scrubber reduce Dissolved Organic Carbon through Photosynthesis??

please give feedback if you can add anything


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Old 01/10/2017, 07:46 PM   #9252
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Best design for settling tank is a cone shaped bottom with a draining port at the lowest point. Outlet port with overflow box will ensure less turbulence when water exits, so more particulate will settle.


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Old 01/10/2017, 10:36 PM   #9253
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I think it's about zones again.

My tub is made up of three depth zones. The high light surface is driven by the side feed that creates the circulating flow (tank must have rounded ends to work). Algae and pods go nuts here.
The mid-layer "shadowed" zone is driven by a high flow pump circulating in the same direction. This keep the bottom of the algae agitated.
The bottom "dark" zone is relatively still with some flow driven by the shear forces from the layer above. This is where the sediment settles and creates a different pod zone.


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Old 01/10/2017, 10:39 PM   #9254
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djbon View Post
Best design for settling tank is a cone shaped bottom with a draining port at the lowest point. Outlet port with overflow box will ensure less turbulence when water exits, so more particulate will settle.
True if the intent is to remove the detritus. I'm actually leaving the layer of sediment there. The water there that gets to the tank needs to flow up to the algae zones and be scrubbed before cascading down the overflow pipe into the aux sump.


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Old 01/10/2017, 10:41 PM   #9255
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Here's my design

 photo 5_zpscfn6bxes.png

That's missing the emergency overflow, but it may be easier to visualize.

Here it is in real life

 photo CDD50175-23DD-48DE-A53C-0BBA7A947E43_zps510gpn6f.jpg


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Old 01/10/2017, 10:42 PM   #9256
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Here's the light plate design

 photo 1_zpsewhikyl7.png

 photo 8B9D7719-5F3F-4F5F-BE3E-B84C7D78BA37_zpsfojuflrn.jpg

 photo 41DEF471-4902-4C46-BF68-9AA5E83DC917_zps5pu9gmn2.jpg

 photo C7BA434A-38EB-4E5A-9606-E65E2A0A2456_zpsgj0kto6f.jpg

 photo D560324B-EE89-47DF-AB70-672A92CB2CE6_zpslyiddxb2.jpg

 photo D5A85890-DBFA-4EF3-9C0A-8AD12EA8A219_zpsip0buhwn.jpg

 photo 2E24625F-6B94-431F-8C9A-113EEB784B2C_zps8uj3x0la.jpg

 photo 31738F4D-B7CE-46F3-B935-71F98B70A85E_zpsiohq3uzp.jpg

 photo E03E9D12-4795-4E24-B212-F041736FC7E0_zpsh87o7zsj.jpg

 photo 21439729-4768-4A96-B5AF-AFE25455B641_zpsk4r35etw.jpg


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Old 01/10/2017, 10:44 PM   #9257
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 photo C14BD7F5-7743-4180-9BEE-E383CD080132_zpsiu88ivrn.jpg

 photo 7571ACE1-6934-46B9-9CD5-05770C1B23B4_zps4cysnv04.jpg

 photo 12B4A178-3E6E-4419-9FF0-5FBCA7CC9A49_zpshgqonotn.jpg

And the finished plate

 photo 595B1CEE-34C4-458F-9905-46A2233E0E77_zpsvcozl5yk.jpg


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Old 01/10/2017, 10:48 PM   #9258
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Here was the sediment after only a few days

 photo 75218DD0-236D-438D-85FC-854D98F67A18_zpskd2n3cyz.jpg

Cleaned it up and then after another couple of days

 photo 16FE7539-933F-4B70-ACF5-401C559F592E_zpskaoi49lx.jpg

...

 photo 56FB9157-68D8-49EE-9F71-58DB662B93EC_zpsdtm4g6mj.jpg

Close up I think you can see the worm tracks in the mud

 photo 1763E2BE-2537-45EB-8AAF-57105D8C8690_zpshbc2zl5b.jpg


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Old 01/10/2017, 10:51 PM   #9259
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Oh - I put my ricordea rock in there to introduce biodiversity

The coral actually isn't doing well under 24/7 light now but they're not dying... persistent infestation!


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Old 01/11/2017, 01:25 AM   #9260
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Quote:
Originally Posted by karimwassef View Post
I think it's about zones again.

My tub is made up of three depth zones. The high light surface is driven by the side feed that creates the circulating flow (tank must have rounded ends to work). Algae and pods go nuts here.
The mid-layer "shadowed" zone is driven by a high flow pump circulating in the same direction. This keep the bottom of the algae agitated.

>>>The bottom "dark" zone is relatively<<< still with some flow driven by the shear forces from the layer above. This is where the sediment settles and creates a different pod zone.
how many feet deep is this tub?


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Old 01/11/2017, 03:00 AM   #9261
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18 inches. You don't need more than 3-4" for the calm bottom zone and likewise for the top 2". The rest is the 6-8" for the mid-zone. I have another 6" to the top with a sensor 2" from the rim and the emergency overflow 1" from the rim.


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Old 01/11/2017, 04:58 AM   #9262
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I have What do I need to change


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Old 01/11/2017, 06:04 AM   #9263
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Ok got it! I think I know how to modify mine.. It's pretty simple actually I think.. I'm just wondering if I should actually turn my whites on now.. And I have noticed those worm tracks also.. I just always tried to fight the sediment..

I only need to figure out what and how the fish are going to respond.. I have 5 mollies,a damsel and a filefish in there.. Hmm...

Thanks!

From note 5


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Old 01/11/2017, 08:22 AM   #9264
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The silt reminds me of the gelatinous mass I used to get in my monster skimmer cup ... just softer and more spread out

 photo 0327DAB4-5BF1-4928-92EF-4EF02F435CC8_zpsmjnimndt.jpg

Here is the algae tank as it slowly built up it's algae mass

 photo D160ECDB-D1C2-4E6E-8374-EC539BA15636_zpsxhyr7lqc.jpg

unfortunately, the silt and algae was not what I had in mind for this tank... so I scrubbed down and started again

 photo CDD50175-23DD-48DE-A53C-0BBA7A947E43_zps510gpn6f.jpg

this time, I had to focus on work and family and let it go... that negligence is what ended up forming the algae / sediment tank.


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Old 01/11/2017, 01:08 PM   #9265
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Quote:
Does an Algae Scrubber reduce Dissolved Organic Carbon
Easy answer: No, they increase it, by putting into the water:


Vitamins:

Vitamin A
Vitamin E
Vitamin B6
Beta Carotene
Riboflavin
Thiamine
Biotin
Ascorbate (breaks chloramines into chlorine+ammonia)
N5-Methyltetrahydrofolate
Other tetrahydrofolate polyglutamates
Oxidized folate monoglutamates
Nicotinate
Pantothenate

Amino Acids:

Alanine
Aspartic acid
Leucine
Valine
Tyrosine
Phenylalanine
Methionine
Aspartate
Glutamate
Serine
Proline

Carbohydrates (sugars):

Galactose
Glucose
Maltose
Xylose

Misc:

Glycolic Acid
Citric Acid (breaks chloramines into chlorine+ammonia)
Nucleic Acid derivatives
Polypeptides
Proteins
Enzymes
Lipids


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Old 01/11/2017, 04:02 PM   #9266
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Quote:
Originally Posted by karimwassef View Post
18 inches. You don't need more than 3-4" for the calm bottom zone and likewise for the top 2". The rest is the 6-8" for the mid-zone. I have another 6" to the top with a sensor 2" from the rim and the emergency overflow 1" from the rim.
Is that the water depth, 18", or the tub depth?

I'm sure your system works well, but, I don't see how the water at the lower 3-4" would not be circulating at a rate equal to the top & middle layers which both have outlets forcing water in the same direction in a tub of 18" max depth?

Is this stillness important in the process? I imagine the sediment on the bottom would compact somewhat.
Do you remove any sediment at all, ever?

I can understand that there would some tapering off of light reaching the bottom layer with the algae growing on the surface blocking a great deal & algae particles drifting around the entire water column filtering more light.

Is a low light level at the bottom-sediment layer important?


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Old 01/11/2017, 05:39 PM   #9267
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the tub is 18". the water is ~12".

it is slowly circulating at the bottom, but the silt still collects. both the pump and the inlet circulating flows are directed upwards so the bottom flow is slow.

I haven't removed the sediment for the last 4 months.. no plans to, but we'll see.

The algae self-limits the lit region. That's good because I think pods need both the algae and the silt layers. Pods do prefer the dark, but you could argue that the internal folds of the algae are also dark.


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Old 01/11/2017, 06:52 PM   #9268
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Is the sediment a gritty detritus type, typically found at the bottom of a display tank?

Or is it more like a mud, as a result of decaying algae falling to the bottom of the tub?


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Old 01/11/2017, 10:33 PM   #9269
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Double post.


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Old 01/11/2017, 10:54 PM   #9270
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Neither. It's not decaying algae. It's also not the usual grunge.
It's a soft silty mud (gelatinous) that caked up over time. It looks and feels like the solid export in my skimmer cup - creamy?
It is not gritty. It's very fine. I think this is fish poop acting like fertilizer for the algae.
When I used a monster screen ATS, I would find this type of stuff at the base of the algae attachment to the screen. This is also where the pods congregated.

A few months ago, I started taking down my in-sump ATS. It was getting weak with the tub taking over. You can see the bottom of the attachment here:

 photo 7086FA9E-B3FD-4BDA-802B-4C789DACC945_zpstquzkb31.jpg

 photo 7D572E41-3423-4CF0-A31F-87CA7B2F9627_zpssjl0hfqj.jpg


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Old 01/11/2017, 11:07 PM   #9271
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It's going to be a non-organic silt mass, kind of like grey clay. All the organics will have been eaten out of it.

Quote:
Is a low light level at the bottom-sediment layer important?
Tyree says it should be cryptic.


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Old 01/11/2017, 11:54 PM   #9272
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great thread, tagging along to start my own ATS build soon!


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Old 01/12/2017, 12:08 AM   #9273
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Mine is more brownish, beige or a dark yellow. I may have to make a video


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Old 01/16/2017, 12:51 PM   #9274
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Anyone looked at this light for an ATS

https://www.amazon.com/Double-Spectu.../dp/B01JLKUA2W




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Old 01/16/2017, 07:38 PM   #9275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by karimwassef View Post
Anyone looked at this light for an ATS

https://www.amazon.com/Double-Spectu.../dp/B01JLKUA2W

It looks very similar to the mars which worked well enough.. But the viparspectra, even at the lower wattage unit works better.. I have had one one over my scrubber right now and for the longest.. Works great!

From note 5


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