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Unread 09/16/2017, 05:36 PM   #451
sensei
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Wally,
Chromis are know carriers of Uronema, you need a strict qt protocol to be sure you do not get that in your dt. Formalin dips are recomended for know carriers of this disease.
Chromis are cheap but a lot of risk IMO.


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470g DT SPS dominated (600g system) - five 400W MH, BK 250 & BK300 SM Skimmer
150g mixed reef - XR15w Pro, 90 g Coral quarantine - XR15w Pro, 150g FOWLR tank, 20g TTM Fish Qt
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Unread 09/16/2017, 05:41 PM   #452
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reefmutt View Post
This is exactly why the concept of having a 100 % ich free anything seems a bit utopian to me.
Matt,
This is why I am quarenting everything that goes into dt, even snails and invertebrates. In my case I have a big system (600g) and ich or any other disease would be a big problem.


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Unread 09/16/2017, 06:03 PM   #453
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sensei View Post
Wally,
Chromis are know carriers of Uronema, you need a strict qt protocol to be sure you do not get that in your dt. Formalin dips are recomended for know carriers of this disease.
Chromis are cheap but a lot of risk IMO.
Before I decide on next change to Kitchen tank, I need a break.

For now Kitchen Tank: Grooming Oversized Corals, Expanding Zoa Garden, and general Coral growth to fill things in after grooming.
And some work on Frag Tank again.

Just Fishing for ideas for now, and I will ensure I do QT for whatever fish or fishes I decide on.
I have to plan fish choice on assumption that Tank will be full of ICH since not Fallow.

I was thinking doing some Hydrogen Peroxide dosing (Kitchen Tank) for a while to reduce ICH, since Tang is gone, and other FIsh are not allowing hosting to Parasite.

And for SPS tank, I don't need any more fish. It is maxed out, and I notice they are all getting bigger, so things are getting tight.

Thanks for the Chromis tip, I will read up.



Last edited by Wally.B; 09/16/2017 at 06:18 PM.
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Unread 09/17/2017, 02:45 PM   #454
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Watching Fish (ICH Signs) Ich is looking for another Host Fish.

Since Tang is gone, I'm sure the ICH is looking for a host fish.

Keeping a close eye on fish. So far I see nothing.

Long Nose Hawk Fish


Algae Blenny



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Unread 09/17/2017, 08:04 PM   #455
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Kitchen Tank (Photo Bomb) Been Years

Somehow over the last few years, all I've been paying attention to is my struggles with SPS Tank.

Today, I stepped on a chair to fix a wire on the Canopy and noticed that the tank has certainly changed since last time I was up there. (At least 4 years I looked).

Tough to take an overhead with Permanent Fixture but I got this.



So I decided for the Records to take some photos of the corals.

Here are few Photos of some of the tanks Specimens.

All shot through Aquarium Glass (Using a View not possible)

These are only one of the many colors the Corals Give off all day since I have (4 separately dimmable T5's (Coral Plus, Purple Plus, Blue Plusx2), a Multi Spectrum Kessil, and a Blue LED Actinic Strip)

All FULL SPECTRUM (white) Lighting for these shots (The Best Viewing is under Blue Actinic Lighting BUT really tough to take Photo with the Camera). This gives you an rough idea.



















I'll give credit to the Powder Brown Tang for rekindling my Interest in the Kitchen Tank again.



Last edited by Wally.B; 09/17/2017 at 09:46 PM.
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Unread 09/17/2017, 10:54 PM   #456
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One last Photo of the big Frogspawn before I trim it..


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Unread 09/18/2017, 09:37 PM   #457
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3 Strikes and I Give UP on this SPS Tank Setup (Some kind of big change)

The Ice Fire Enchinata Bleached overnight. I accept that, they are sensitive and hard to keep. But tank was stable. Not changed. Didn't even do a water change.

I checked my Water Parameters to make sure things are ok.

ALL Good. Stable. Nitrate tiny drop. PO4 Great with (NO GFO)

ALK=7.7
CALC=425
NO3=5.0
PO4=0.11

I ordered a new PH probe/Cal Solutions, but the China probe show PH range Swing 7.8-7.95 (Could be higher 8.1 but new Probe will show real value).

Nothing is wrong in tank, and I continue with ZERO CHANGES!!!

But I don't see anything great (Too soon of course).
The damaged Tip Frags continue to recede and build up Algae (ie no healing)

I do have a clue that my Plating Monti when happy has always had white Tips.
It had white tips when I starting this Tank and they faded. It's alive, getting Bright pinky tips but not White YET. Maybe normal.

The Forest Forest worries me a bit, since I see white tips, just above the Green Tips. Hoping that is growth not Bleaching. (Hoping for White growth extension as a positive sign).
But it has great PE and covering so much I barely seen green, but it's there. I take pictures almost every day, since that coral is my only Pride and Glory.

What catches my attention is the two Green Slimers. The original looks like it getting a bit of Damage (Little PE), and the One Brought in from Frag Tank while ago (Looks healthy with PE).
Slimers are suppose to be fast growing and easy to keep.


The Red Planet, seem to not be getting any more burnt tips. Good tips are still good.

I am holding off on Picking up the really Nice Strawberry Shortcake, since I don't trust this tank with another Expensive Coral.

SO THESE ARE THE 3 CONDITIONS that I will give up on this TANK (All 3).

1) 3 Months pass (Hands off) and the tank doesn't show SOME overall improvement
2) All the corals I have Die off, or get significantly damaged during the 3 months (Not one does super well)
3) The Forest Fire Digitata Dies, since that should be an easy coral to Keep.


What I'll do I don't know.
-> I will start with an Triton Test.
---------> (The only thing not changed in my setup is my Hand Me down rocks. Are they leaching something bad. They were live rock, killed by Muratic Acid and stored)
---------> Checking with original Rock Owner exactly what he did before I inherited these rocks and starting my SPS tank 3 years ago (nothing but problems since start)
-> It will be MH Bulb replacement time. Maybe switch to LED?
-> Hook Frag Tank into DT?

But for next 3 month, I am going to Work Really hard on the Frag Tank Setup.
Bring in Fresh Frags, and stop trying to Salve the damaged ones. The healing Acro is showing positive performance. Getting Purple color glow.
I have arranged a Loaner Radion XR15, and will try that in SPS Tank on the Other Half Side (side that doesn't have MH light)

I have to stop Losing One Frag after another. Costing me too much aggravation, and money.



Last edited by Wally.B; 09/18/2017 at 10:00 PM.
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Unread 09/19/2017, 12:03 PM   #458
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I'm sorry to hear you're still having difficulties, I know it's tough, and we've all been there. At least you can take solace that at a minimum, your kitchen tank is BEAUTIFUL. Wonder if it is worth sticking a frag or two in there and see how they do, even if only for a temporary basis.

Unfortunately I'm having similar STN (Slow tissue necrosis) on some of my SPS while others are growing like weeds. I've also gone for the testing everything twice, reconciling with Triton, and going through the beginner's checklist of things to think about. Honestly, the downs are as much part of the hobby as the ups. I still wonder about efficacy of LEDs... At least you're on tried-and-true halides (no debate, please, just confirming nobody can blame LEDs for your issues).

Two other last ditch recommendations to consider:
1. Maybe throw a poly-filter pad in case there is any heavy metals in the water column
2. Look into chloramines or another form of chlorination getting through the RO/DI filters?

They're both Hail Mary's that are unlikely to make a difference or explain your issue, but they've surprised people in the past, so if you're at the end of your rope, why not.


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Unread 09/19/2017, 12:26 PM   #459
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ReefWreak View Post
I'm sorry to hear you're still having difficulties, I know it's tough, and we've all been there. At least you can take solace that at a minimum, your kitchen tank is BEAUTIFUL. Wonder if it is worth sticking a frag or two in there and see how they do, even if only for a temporary basis.

Unfortunately I'm having similar STN (Slow tissue necrosis) on some of my SPS while others are growing like weeds. I've also gone for the testing everything twice, reconciling with Triton, and going through the beginner's checklist of things to think about. Honestly, the downs are as much part of the hobby as the ups. I still wonder about efficacy of LEDs... At least you're on tried-and-true halides (no debate, please, just confirming nobody can blame LEDs for your issues).

Two other last ditch recommendations to consider:
1. Maybe throw a poly-filter pad in case there is any heavy metals in the water column
2. Look into chloramines or another form of chlorination getting through the RO/DI filters?

They're both Hail Mary's that are unlikely to make a difference or explain your issue, but they've surprised people in the past, so if you're at the end of your rope, why not.
Thank you so much. Any word of support really helps one to keep trying. I don't give up easy.

Thanks for the Kitchen Tank Compliment.
Yes I put in 1/2 of frag of each type into it. 3 Kinds. They are brown, but living in Kitchen tank. In SPS tank, all have died. Kitchen Tank is LPS so too low for SPS. Nitrates High, P High.
One is bird of Paradise SPS. Doing great since low lighting is ok. Same Bird died in SPS tank. Puzzling since Birds are hard to kill. SPS tank used to have one. Grew best, was centerpiece COLONY (Only Colony I ever grew from baby Frag in the SPS tank)

I agree, on not going to LED. MH/T5 is tried and proven Golden Standard!!
LED is for 1/2 Frag Tank (for comparison)

I have run Detoxers. "Kent Heavy Metal Sponge" and " Seachem Curpsorb", short period since too long removes Trace Elements. If there was anything, resin color would change. It didn't. BTW. I did do a Triton test last year. Squeaky clean.
Maybe I should put back BOTH, since I now do twice a week water changes with new Setup so I replenish Trace Elements. They will polish any heavy metals out if any are present.

My RO is perfect. I change Carbons, every 3 months. Last stage is Color Changing DI. I have Inline TDS (before and after DI) and I get 5 IN, 0 Out.
Maybe one suspicion. RO water is 0.00TDS pure. but my float valves on RO Reservoirs (both of them have metal float arms). But same water is used for Kitchen tank.


MY PROBLEM IS THIS.. Every time I loose or damage a really nice new Frag, I want to adjust things for the next time.

So I need to give up on new frags in DT. Just let these recover, or all die. New ones for Frag Tank.

I think it's Three things to solve this. I'll find out in 3 months if true.

1) HANDS OUT OF TANK for 3 months (no changes)
2) Stop trying to raise Beautiful Expensive Hard to keep corals.
3) Must learn more to acclimatize Corals coming from ALL T5 , or ALL LED Tanks, and learn placement under T5/MH.
----> Maybe in the old days when everyone was MH/T5 the transition was easier.
(All FRAGS I place in under lighting/Medium Circulation don't damage. Even after 2-3 weeks. Then I put on Rock in Ideal Stonger Light/Circulation and it's too quick)

Thanks again. 3 months is long wait. Frag tank is good distraction.



Last edited by Wally.B; 09/19/2017 at 12:43 PM.
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Unread 09/19/2017, 01:00 PM   #460
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INTERESTING (CupriSorb Is exhausted) Just removed last week

ReefWreak, you may be on to something.

When I pulled out the CurpiSorb last week, I did that when I shut down GFO with Scrubber starting up. (I was running in tank for a few months, on and off a few times)

I just tossed the baggie in a bin to dry.
When I looked at it next time, it was already dried out, so looked white (not darkened). Which to me was is proof/indication of no metals (Thus a dead end solution).

After post above, I was gong to throw it back in, but I had a 1/2 jar so thought I would put in fresh resin.

Then I noticed that the OLD CupriSorb when went went Dark. Not blue like it says on (Jar Instructions) for Copper, but Dark Brown/Black (which also is specifies on Jar)
The new one now in Baggie stays white (Even WET).



So maybe OLD Cuprisor did fill up and Exhaust and could explain the setback. Especially on the Monti that lost it white tips. Certainly explains the Bird of Paradise.
Would explain why any sensitive Coral like Red Dragon, would bleach right away. Tried 5 Red Dragons. Would explain why I can't keep a single Milli for more than a week (tried at least 8)


CurpriSorb is tuned resin for Copper, but will pull out all Heavy metals over time (thus two kinds of beads, I guess)

And DEAD GOD, maybe this is why my fish is SPS tank haven't been contaminated with ICH from other tank (Light Copper in Water).

Getting paranoid here. (Dark Brown, may not be exhausted color. Blue/Black is exhausted) I googled for images, can't find) Let's see.....

Let me run the fresh baggie and see if it darkens, and if corals spark up.
I put in in a fresh Nylon Sock, in Tank Return Drain. Full flow thru.

This could be a game changer!!!! Keeping Fingers cross.

If it does change things, then it's either old Metals from that Copper Contamination early this year, or a leaching metal from the RO Float Arms, or something else.
And frequent water changes, just keep things barely good.
THANKS!

BTW. I just emailed SEACHEM to confirm Color of OLD resin.



Last edited by Wally.B; 09/19/2017 at 01:22 PM.
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Unread 09/20/2017, 03:30 PM   #461
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Kitchen Tank Mushrooms (Low Circulation Expansion) Observation

I was working on putting back the Hydor Koralia's that I got back from Warranty replace.

Forgot to turn them on yesterday.

Today, I was walking by tank and noticed that WOW the Mushrooms Tripled in size (Appears when they get no circulation they do this).
Never knew that it can be so drastic.

Got this Photo of a small Mushroom Patch that wasn't small anymore in a matter of 1 day.



They Look Great, but they are just too big and overlapping everything under them (Covering Zoa's etc).
Plus you can see Detritus settling n them, and that isn't a good things.
Within an few minutes of pump on, they went back to original size.


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Unread 09/21/2017, 12:20 PM   #462
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Tackling PH in (SPS TANK) New Probe, Air Filter?

The temporary China PH probe is showing Better PH.



But I got a new Probe Since the China Probe isn't a sealed unit.
Also got new Calibration Solutions (since been using stored old solutions)



After I install/calibrate new probe well see what PH is like.

However I stumbled upon this Air Filter concept.
Not out on Market yet (AquarForest), but has anyone seen this?



It's a CO2 Scrubber.

Instead of outside AIR, you can run airline to Skimmer thru this filter.
Has Carbon at bottom, and Soda Lime at top.

SODA lime is used Medical Field to purify Air to contain more Oxygen.
It changes color when Expired (ie full of CO2)



I have a un-used DI/Filter Canister that I could make one of these in seconds. Just need to find a Soda Line Supplier nearby.



This could affect my Algae Scrubber since it does need the CO2, but my ATS is before Skimmer, and has it's own AirLine with CO2 air going in.


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Unread 09/21/2017, 01:13 PM   #463
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Hey wally, the softy tank photos are great! Looking really nice.
That damn sps tank, though...
Please remind me again- the scrubber is on the sps tank?
I’m always getting confused about what is on which tank between the frag tank, kitchen and sps tank..
If you are losing seriatopora and montis in the sps tank, it is really weird.. not to mention acros.. birds nest and montis are much more tolerant than acros..
The cuprisorb is supposed to be pulling what when it turns brown? Do they say?
Really seems odd all the trouble in there..
However, I still think leaving it alone is the best thing to do.
What salt are you using for the auto water changes?
One other question.. remind me again where n and p were in the sps tank one year ago, where they went once the scrubber went on, where they went when scrubber stopped and now they are 5 and .11..
What’s the longest living acropora you’ve had in there? Do you have any healthy lps in the tank? Have you tried adding some to see how they do? Lps and acros are fully compatible..


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Unread 09/21/2017, 03:13 PM   #464
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reefmutt View Post
Please remind me again- the scrubber is on the sps tank?
I’m always getting confused about what is on which tank between the frag tank, kitchen and sps tank..
Yes, scrubber is on, and Algae is growing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by reefmutt View Post
If you are losing seriatopora and montis in the sps tank, it is really weird.. not to mention acros.. birds nest and montis are much more tolerant than acros..
Mystery to me too. What the F can be wrong.
Quote:
Originally Posted by reefmutt View Post
The cuprisorb is supposed to be pulling what when it turns brown? Do they say?
Haven't heard back from Seachem. Instructions only say Blue, no mention of brown.
Quote:
Originally Posted by reefmutt View Post
Really seems odd all the trouble in there..
No kidding. Even with some tinkering, things shouldn't be this bad.
Quote:
Originally Posted by reefmutt View Post
However, I still think leaving it alone is the best thing to do.
I did just make one more adjustment. HAD TO. Will explain below.
Quote:
Originally Posted by reefmutt View Post
What salt are you using for the auto water changes?
Tropic Marin Pro ($150 a bucket). Mixed to match tank ALk=7.7
Quote:
Originally Posted by reefmutt View Post
One other question.. remind me again where n and p were in the sps tank one year ago, where they went once the scrubber went on, where they went when scrubber stopped and now they are 5 and .11..
It was around P=0.1 to P=0.2, and N=10, but I will check 100%
Quote:
Originally Posted by reefmutt View Post
What’s the longest living acropora you’ve had in there? Do you have any healthy lps in the tank? Have you tried adding some to see how they do? Lps and acros are fully compatible..
Interesting Idea to try a piece of my LPS (got tons), but my LPS tank lighting is 5-10 time less intense.

There is one acro that is surviving. Pink Tip Millie (In the middle of tank, but enclose withing rocks, so protected from STRONG Circulation.
And that is what gave me the last clue. (longshot, but possible)

I've been commenting that my NEW FRAG do good at back/bottom of tank on RACK. Then things go bad when glued on rocks.

So I was at GTAreef. He always turns off his DT and FragTank Circulation so I can see corals with PE out.
I asked that he turn on Circulation, since I've NEVER SEEN what proper circulation is.
Everybody including ED' thread say STRONG.
So my tank is setup for OVERSTRONG. But I only use a fraction of power.
When he turned on DT and Frag Tank. It was nothing compared to mine
I'm like 20 times more powerful. Maybe more. My flow is ROUGH.
But his corals look like they get circulation because PE is extended, so it look like movement.

So after last circulation improvement, to clear up water, I even went HIGHER FLOW.

The one Digit that encrusted a rock but never grew stem, started pealing off, bit by bit every day.
My circulation is OVERKILL.
Something you can't see in a video.

I played with my Programming. All was ON or OFF at various powers. SOME POINTS IN DAY ARE PRETTY STRONG, to clear up Particulates.
I changed all pump programming to Pulse and lowered power on each. That is way better. NEVER LAMINAR FLOW.
Now the tank looks like GTA's tank. Gentle Flow, very Random, but reaching into every part of tank.
Now my FRAGS are extending PE, but getting flow.
Looks like GTA's tank.

Probably not the Life Saving reason, but a good change, that doesn't really change Water Quatlity/Parameters.



Last edited by Wally.B; 09/21/2017 at 03:20 PM.
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Unread 09/22/2017, 07:23 AM   #465
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Quote:
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What’s the longest living acropora you’ve had in there?
Matt,
Good question. I did some tracing.

Bonsai which is 1 year old. FAR LEFT PHOTO
Next oldest is Pink Tip Millie (Middle Photo), but it may be called SSC Hairy Acro.
Not an Acro, but the Branching Cyphastrea is my oldest Surviving Coral.



Funny, I went to access my Backup Drive, and took a peek at old photos.
I totally forgot, that 13 years ago, during my early years of exploring I tried SPS in my Kitchen Tank..



Not Pretty, but my short attempt at Digi SPS actually grew and stayed alive.
The SPS never died on me till the day of the BIG CRASH. (AND That big CRASH was not my Fault at all, not one bit)



Last edited by Wally.B; 09/22/2017 at 10:11 AM.
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Unread 09/22/2017, 09:19 AM   #466
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CLERANCE SALE (Frags) and a Tubinaria

Price was to good to pass up on these Frags.

Will leave them on the Rack at the Back for as Long as they last.



But what I'm most excited about is I've been looking for Ages for a Tiny Frag of a Tubinaria.

And this one was available for the price of a medium priced frag.



I bought it to cut it up, but after placing in the empty section of tank, it isn't that big.
What was will be interesting is, in the past, the Tubinaria would always indicate water quality if the Yellow Polyps appeared.


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Unread 09/22/2017, 10:18 AM   #467
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Thanks for the info..
You could be onto something with the flow..
I still think you should add some lps. I assume they would have been torn off their skeletons with your previous flow levels.. put them down low so the light won’t be too bad. They should not be able to open as much as they would in proper flow for them but they should be able to open up uniformly. They are good barometers of flow.
Nice new frags. I love turbinaria as well. Nice steal! Wally don’t cut it up! They are such slow growers and they only start to look good when they get to mini colony size.
When you say your salt is ‘mixed to match’ your tank water, what does that mean?


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Unread 09/22/2017, 07:26 PM   #468
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Quote:
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Thanks for the info..
You could be onto something with the flow..
I still think you should add some lps. I assume they would have been torn off their skeletons with your previous flow levels.. put them down low so the light won’t be too bad. They should not be able to open as much as they would in proper flow for them but they should be able to open up uniformly. They are good barometers of flow.
Hah! You are correct. LPS flesh would be ripped off the Skeleton with my last Flow Optimization which I just dropped.
Even now it will be a bit to strong.
I've already picked out a small Frogspawn piece to cut for SPS tank.

This is the problem with this Hobby. As much as these Forums are so valuable, nothing is as good as seeing other peoples tanks for things like Circulation.

The Local Fish Store has a nice display, but I can tell it's a SETUP. What I mean, they may have nice Coral Tanks. Very little SPS, and the SPS that I see, isnt' encrusted much, SPS pieces change often (which means SPS doesn't do well, and SPS is just replaced to look impressive).

I've learned everything on my own.
Experimented over 15++ years to figure out my Softie tank. Made every mistake on that one too, before I got it right. The perfection achivevement was fine tuning over last 2 years.
SPS is just 50x harder to figure out, since you can't move Acros around till they say perfect.
And only been doing SPS for 3 years. Maybe need just 3 more months

Quote:
Originally Posted by reefmutt View Post
Nice new frags. I love turbinaria as well. Nice steal! Wally don’t cut it up! They are such slow growers and they only start to look good when they get to mini colony size.
I won't cut it, it looks amazing, now that the polyps are coming out. Really healthy bright yellow one. Will do a good photo eventually. Might be the only Coral I'm left with if this SPS downhill doesn't stop.

Found another tiny Tubinaria piece for sale. Just flat, not cupped, and price/value no where close to this one.
It was a deal for sure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by reefmutt View Post
When you say your salt is ‘mixed to match’ your tank water, what does that mean?
What I mean is I mix salt to exactly the same spec as Tank Water. So TEMP, ALK. In case of TM Salt Alk=7.0 out ot bucket, to I add Alk to bring it to 7.5 with Salinity at 1.025


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Unread 09/22/2017, 09:09 PM   #469
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SPECIAL PHOTO (High Contrast , WHite Balanced Enhanced) SPS Tank 3 Month Journey

These colors a way off, but with a White Balance Effect, FOCUS isn't ideal, BUT it shows each coral's health clearly.

Just to give you idea of this PHOTO White Balance Adjustment. The Lighting is BLUE from two BLUE PLUS T5's. No other lighting.

I threw away couple of bleached ones.

One current burned went to BACK OF TANK




And the 5 new frags were mounted on Rocks FRONT OF TANK



Now my circulation isn't Sand Blasting the Corals, so can't blame future damage on that factor.

I'll compare at Christmas time, Same Photo Shot/Same Angle.

Won't be doing any weird changes, but I do have to work on bring PH up a bit, since new Probe Shows that Probe Wasn't Expired.
The China probe was garbage.



I have two ways to RAISE PH overall in TANK (Gently!!!!)

-> Safest is work on More Oxgen in Air Line, if that doesn't interfere with Algae Scrubber.
-> Future Possiblity is restart my old Kalk Reactor, but that has to wait till I am eating more ALK/Calcium.

I will play with the White Balance and see if I can get Color Right, but good enough for now.


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Unread 09/22/2017, 11:35 PM   #470
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PHOTO EXAMPLE (Custom White Balance) BEFORE & AFTER (Same Lighting)

Just want to show how Custom White Balance Works. The Canon Rebel SL1 has this. Many camera's do in the Menu.

It's take a ton of practice to get things accurate.

But this EXAMPLE gives you an idea of the concept.

HERE IS A PHOTO (BLUE Plus T5's Only) Camera on Auto or Manual

Notice that the White Jar TOP does look white (but it's actually blue to my eyes). Photo does have some white balance adjustment but it's not accurate.



Now in this Photo, we take a close up of the WHITE PLASTIC, Blue Looking Cap.




Pasting a cut out of Cap Photo on White Background really show the Cap Color under Blue Plus T5.



Now setting the Custom Balance (in Camera) to that (White Reference Photo), and retaking photo give you this. (Exact Same Lighting)


Now the cap is more WHITE other colors adjusted to what they would look like under white light. (And below is before Shot without Custom-White-Balance)


To be clear, both photos above are exactly same T5 Blue Plus Lighting. 1 Bulb, at FRONT.

Here is a compare of the White CAP in both Photo on WHITE Background



It's not perfect, but in some situations when not such a drastic correction it works very well.

Further adjustments can be made in camera in the WB Shift/Bkt (into BLUE/RED/GREEN/MAGENTA)



Last edited by Wally.B; 09/22/2017 at 11:41 PM.
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Unread 09/23/2017, 04:23 AM   #471
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Hi Wally,

Try not be so micro focused on everything.........you don't seem to do that with the LPS tank.

Matt has mentioned many times to just let things settle in. I agree, just keep things simple and give the tank a few months to balance and stabilize.

When I've had problems in the past I wouldn't buy any new corals for a good three months.

ph- I don't track ph.......as long as your alk is consistent your ph will be fine for the acros. The flucuation and low range readouts you're getting aren't worth focusing on.

Any reliable two part or kalk setup will keep ph at an acceptable level.

------------------------------------

Flow-

Just make sure the corals are getting flow all around them. This video is max/good flow.....most acros will like this, but less in some areas is ok. It's impossible to make every area of the tank perfect....again don't obsess over it.

Flow video by Big E 52, on Flickr

One last suggestion.........you may want to just keep this thread or a separate thread focused on the Sps tank. All the jumping around from all the tanks makes it hard to follow.......my brain hurts

Maybe it's just me and my feeble brain that can't keep track of things.


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Last edited by Big E; 09/23/2017 at 04:38 AM.
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Unread 09/23/2017, 09:50 AM   #472
Wally.B
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big E View Post
Hi Wally,

Try not be so micro focused on everything.........you don't seem to do that with the LPS tank.

Matt has mentioned many times to just let things settle in. I agree, just keep things simple and give the tank a few months to balance and stabilize.

When I've had problems in the past I wouldn't buy any new corals for a good three months.

ph- I don't track ph.......as long as your alk is consistent your ph will be fine for the acros. The flucuation and low range readouts you're getting aren't worth focusing on.

Any reliable two part or kalk setup will keep ph at an acceptable level.

------------------------------------

Flow-

Just make sure the corals are getting flow all around them. This video is max/good flow.....most acros will like this, but less in some areas is ok. It's impossible to make every area of the tank perfect....again don't obsess over it.

Flow video by Big E 52, on Flickr

One last suggestion.........you may want to just keep this thread or a separate thread focused on the Sps tank. All the jumping around from all the tanks makes it hard to follow.......my brain hurts

Maybe it's just me and my feeble brain that can't keep track of things.
Ed, you points are well taken.

1) Your Video confirms that my Circulation was at least 5x too strong. Just what I noticed in my Frag Sellers tank. It was still too strong yesterday when I lower things. THat is now corrected with lowering of Gyre's and turning on Pulse mode instead of Continuous.
I also JUST put BACK one of my fixed Hydro Koralia at bottom back of tank. Very wide flow, and moves the bottom of tank water, so that I don't have to push the top GYRE's too hard (damaging middle placed corals with Laminar flow)
That may have been a game changer since two Koralia's were in my tank couple of months ago, but I sent them for repair, and use the Gyre's to compensate. Just got them back last week.

I had to admit I increased the circulation by a comment I got from your thread.
You said something to the effect "As Strong as possible without ripping the Flesh off". So that is what I did, but I ripped the flesh off.

2) Thanks for calming me down on PH. I agree that two part dosing will bring up PH, but that is my problem. I'm only dosing 10ml of ESV daily since my corals are not yet consuming enough. When things take off and I'm doing 50ml or more then PH should come up. Correct?

3) Yes the Thread plan was only the SPS tank, I got off on some tangents with Kitchen tank and Frag Tank. I myself have problem finding past Water Test readings.
That was to get me stop touching SPS tank, but a separate thread is appropriate to keep progress, and situations, water chemistry easy to understand.
I will start up a FRAG tank thread,
and no need for a Kitchen Tank thread since not much to talk about.
But I did start a thread on it's 15 year history (few days ago). https://w w w . reef 2 reef . com/threads/90-gallon-mixed-lps-tank-15-year-journey-to-%E2%98%85success%E2%98%85-every-accident-disaster-problem.326397/ (REMOVE extra Blanks)

And last but not least, you are correct. I do nothing for my LPS tank except Feed fish, and clean skimmer (dosing hasn't been changed for a year), and I do water changes when I feel like it which is once every month or two.
But the reason for that is I'm not moving damaged corals, or removing dead corals on a weekly basis. Which has been happening in SPS tank.



Last edited by Wally.B; 09/23/2017 at 10:11 AM.
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Unread 09/23/2017, 11:53 AM   #473
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Ed beat me here.
I was going to say don’t you dare start that kalk reactor! But I think you got the message already.
I was a bit confused as well..
start your sps tank thread in the sps section.
You’ll get more views and more opinions.


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Unread 09/23/2017, 01:06 PM   #474
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ok. I'll start Thread in SPS section. (Needle in hackstack Problem)

But Strike 1 isn't Far Away.

Come on, a simple Digi can't stay healthy. Look at my Forest Fire.

No changes, No additives,
No GFO Water changes match DT water.
and this digi isn't happy.

I tested ALK 8.0 from 7.7, will test rest.

It's at the bottom, not bad circulation.
I already see a tiny bit of early brown algae at tips. No green back color left.
Not good.

Only condition is it's been in tank for couple of weeks. Typical problem.

]

As I showed in my tank 10 years ago. Digi's were in horrible conditions and thrived. Alk was a roller coaster Level. (not best colors, but grew like weeds).



Trition Test is cheaper than 2-3 frags. Waiting is worst part.

Before I move Thread (Current situation) to SPS forum, let's put Circulation to rest.
This is what is looks like NOW.


CURRENT SPS TANK Flow video

I think flow is good now.


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Unread 09/23/2017, 01:14 PM   #475
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are you controlling alk and ca with something?
What are you putting in your salt water to change alk?
Start it with your above post. Good start..


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