H. Mag vs. WAV

Skeet59 · 02/28/2019, 04:13 PM

So I finally got the chance to get an H. Mag after not finding one for two or so years. Been in the dt for two weeks now. It started down low and moved as high as it could on my scape. Has been there until I came home this morning. At first glance everything looked fine and at second glance I noticed water looked super cloudy (no lights on yet). Low blues came on and I didn’t see my new nem. Went looking saw it perched atop the WAV with mantle inflated. Well that’s weird started looking closer and a large portion of pedal was gone, just totally gone. Immediately fired up the qt and pulled nem from dt. Treatment is underway but it’s been a long day of massive water changes. Lost a fat head anthia, 2 bartlet’s anthias, yellow tang, niger trigger, and still looking for other 2 bartlet’s. So now that I’m done sobbing maybe someone can chyme in with what my odds are for mags survival? OrioN maybe?
Thanks in advance
BTW I still don’t know how to post pics worth a damn

hottuna · 03/01/2019, 03:43 AM

yet another example of why I put Hmags in an anemone dedicated tank only and with every moving pump/powerhead filter covered or screened off......

AD87 · 03/01/2019, 02:21 PM

Pull it out and treat it. Keep up with 100 percent waterchanges daily

D-Nak · 03/01/2019, 06:06 PM

It doesn't look that bad.

If it's not sloughing off dead tissue, it might pull through. You don't need to treat it per se, as in no need for antibiotics just keep an eye on it. Without the bottom of its foot I'm not sure how it'll be able to secure itself.

I'd be more worried about the DT in terms of water chemistry and more specifically nematocysts floating around. Sounds like they got to most of your fish.

Skeet59 · 03/01/2019, 06:09 PM

It’s foot is unharmed, but thanks for the input. Power heads have been modified as well.

Urchinhead · 03/01/2019, 06:26 PM

Yikes! That sucks! I am sorry that happened.

A couple of thoughts. When I was rehabbing sick/bleached/injured nems one thing I found that helps is to feed the nem regularly. I used 1/4” sized slices of washed silversides. I would feed until it regurgitated the last piece fed. And feeding was every other day. I also had problems with wandering nems in my DT. I solved that by feeding as well.

While they can live off of photosynthesis alone they are carnivorous and I found that by regular heavy feeding they would associate the location they were in with a good food supply and wouldn’t move as much. I had a starburst rose go from about 2” in diameter and so bleached as to be almost translucent to over 10” in diameter fully inflated. Here are some shots of her when I first rescued her from the LFS and after several months. Sorry I had to dig up the photos. And the Acans will grow 2-4 heads a month if you feed them as well. I was feeding the LPS corals when I shot this second one. As you can see the RBTA smells the food and has her mouth open as well as tentacles ready and the candy cane acans do as well. The bloody acans can be like weeds...

Urchinhead · 03/01/2019, 06:37 PM

Sorry I forgot to mention that you need to do 50%+ water changes an hour or so after feeding and monitor salinity and nitrates very closely as you want as clean a water as possible. Yours has a good chance of recovery.

Be wary of freeze dried or oth shrimp with the shell still on as well. If silversides are a hassle or you are worried about the bones, precooked fresh shrimp from your supermarket are a good option. Get the small ones used in shrimp cocktail (not the big ones) as a nem should be able to take at least one per feeding.

CoralsAddiction · 03/01/2019, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skeet59

Immediately fired up the qt and pulled nem from dt. Treatment is underway but it’s been a long day of massive water changes.

Quote:

Originally Posted by AD87

Pull it out and treat it. Keep up with 100 percent waterchanges daily

Looks like OP is already treating it

D-Nak · 03/01/2019, 10:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skeet59

It’s foot is unharmed, but thanks for the input. Power heads have been modified as well.

You said "pedal" which I inferred to mean pedal disc, which is the anemone's foot. But looking at the photos, it looks like the oral disc.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Urchinhead

Yikes! That sucks! I am sorry that happened.

A couple of thoughts. When I was rehabbing sick/bleached/injured nems one thing I found that helps is to feed the nem regularly. I used 1/4” sized slices of washed silversides. I would feed until it regurgitated the last piece fed. And feeding was every other day. I also had problems with wandering nems in my DT. I solved that by feeding as well.

You should NEVER feed an anemone with a damaged oral disc, especially when part of the mouth is injured.

Give the anemone time to heal on its own. You don't want the nem using energy to eat, and if you feed it too much, a nem with a damaged oral disc will have a harder time processing the food.

I think your nem will fully recover. Just give it time to heal. I've had both a magnifica and gigantea get chewed up by powerheads, and both recovered. The gigantea got sucked into a MP40, so much so that it stopped the motor. After removing it and waiting a few weeks, the nem as back to normal.

D-Nak · 03/01/2019, 10:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Urchinhead

Be wary of freeze dried or oth shrimp with the shell still on as well. If silversides are a hassle or you are worried about the bones, precooked fresh shrimp from your supermarket are a good option. Get the small ones used in shrimp cocktail (not the big ones) as a nem should be able to take at least one per feeding.

Are you talking about cooked shrimp? Are you saying you feed your nems cooked shrimp? Like the ones that are pink? And you're feeding them the whole thing???

Skeet59 · 03/02/2019, 06:10 PM

My mistake D-Nak. That photo definitely proves helpful in explanation. Definite tentacle and oral disc damage. Its still looking good in qt so I'm staying hopeful.
BTW HoTuNa I have another one on the way......

OrionN · 05/26/2019, 05:29 AM

How did this Magnifica do. Hope he recovered. Sorry about the fish loss.

ThRoewer · 05/26/2019, 02:35 PM

An anemone going on a walkabout is a clear indicator that it didn't like the conditions in the place you had put it. This can be light, flow, or the lack of a proper surface to attach Its foot to. Food however is rarely a factor in this with host-anemones.
Once you understand the needs of an anemone you can create the right conditions for it to stay in one place.

When it comes to magnificas I would closely adhere to Minh's (OrionN) findings:

1. A magnifica wants to sit on the highest point it can reach. To make the anemone believe that it is on the highest point, place it on top of a rock structure that is far enough away from the tank walls and other rocks that the anemone can't touch them. Magnificas also prefer to attach to rather smooth and exposed surfaces. Also, unlike like most other anemones magnificas don't like to put their foot into a cavity.

2. Magnificas like relatively strong, non-turbulent flow. So it is best to have it in the return flow of a pump rather than targeting it directly with the pump output.

3. Magnificas like to get a lot of light. So ideally you place it directly under a point light source.

If you follow this the magnifica should stay put in the place you created for it.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

03/01/2019, 03:43 AM	#2
hottuna Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,248	yet another example of why I put Hmags in an anemone dedicated tank only and with every moving pump/powerhead filter covered or screened off...... __________________ HotTuna

03/01/2019, 02:21 PM	#3
AD87 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: NE Ohio Posts: 1,819	Pull it out and treat it. Keep up with 100 percent waterchanges daily __________________ Antonio H Magnificia or bust.

03/01/2019, 06:06 PM	#4
D-Nak Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Bay Area, CA Posts: 5,797	It doesn't look that bad. If it's not sloughing off dead tissue, it might pull through. You don't need to treat it per se, as in no need for antibiotics just keep an eye on it. Without the bottom of its foot I'm not sure how it'll be able to secure itself. I'd be more worried about the DT in terms of water chemistry and more specifically nematocysts floating around. Sounds like they got to most of your fish. __________________ Tank info: 120 gallon 48x30x20 high DT. Clownfish breeding rack in full swing: C-Quest Onyx, Bali Aquarich P1 Picasso + Rod's Onyx, wild percula + Rod's Onyx.

03/01/2019, 06:09 PM	#5
Skeet59 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Colorado Posts: 49	It’s foot is unharmed, but thanks for the input. Power heads have been modified as well. __________________ Dylan Current Tank Info: 125g DT, 50g sump/refug,

03/01/2019, 06:26 PM	#6
Urchinhead Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: San Gabriel, California Posts: 681	Yikes! That sucks! I am sorry that happened. A couple of thoughts. When I was rehabbing sick/bleached/injured nems one thing I found that helps is to feed the nem regularly. I used 1/4” sized slices of washed silversides. I would feed until it regurgitated the last piece fed. And feeding was every other day. I also had problems with wandering nems in my DT. I solved that by feeding as well. While they can live off of photosynthesis alone they are carnivorous and I found that by regular heavy feeding they would associate the location they were in with a good food supply and wouldn’t move as much. I had a starburst rose go from about 2” in diameter and so bleached as to be almost translucent to over 10” in diameter fully inflated. Here are some shots of her when I first rescued her from the LFS and after several months. Sorry I had to dig up the photos. And the Acans will grow 2-4 heads a month if you feed them as well. I was feeding the LPS corals when I shot this second one. As you can see the RBTA smells the food and has her mouth open as well as tentacles ready and the candy cane acans do as well. The bloody acans can be like weeds... Last edited by Urchinhead; 03/01/2019 at 06:32 PM.

03/01/2019, 06:37 PM	#7
Urchinhead Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: San Gabriel, California Posts: 681	Sorry I forgot to mention that you need to do 50%+ water changes an hour or so after feeding and monitor salinity and nitrates very closely as you want as clean a water as possible. Yours has a good chance of recovery. Be wary of freeze dried or oth shrimp with the shell still on as well. If silversides are a hassle or you are worried about the bones, precooked fresh shrimp from your supermarket are a good option. Get the small ones used in shrimp cocktail (not the big ones) as a nem should be able to take at least one per feeding.

03/02/2019, 06:10 PM	#11
Skeet59 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Colorado Posts: 49	My mistake D-Nak. That photo definitely proves helpful in explanation. Definite tentacle and oral disc damage. Its still looking good in qt so I'm staying hopeful. BTW HoTuNa I have another one on the way...... __________________ Dylan Current Tank Info: 125g DT, 50g sump/refug,

05/26/2019, 05:29 AM	#12
OrionN Moved on Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Coastal Texas Posts: 16,000	How did this Magnifica do. Hope he recovered. Sorry about the fish loss. __________________ Minh My homepage is my album here at Reef Central Current Tank Info: Reboot 320 anemones reef. Angels: Yellow Chest Regal(2), Flame (2). Copperband But. Tangs: Yellow, Purple. Wrasse: about 20 wrasses various species. Anemones: Giantea X4 (Breen, Blue, Purple and Multicolors), Haddoni X1 Red, Magnifica X1 Purpletip

05/26/2019, 02:35 PM	#13
ThRoewer Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Fremont, CA Posts: 9,555	An anemone going on a walkabout is a clear indicator that it didn't like the conditions in the place you had put it. This can be light, flow, or the lack of a proper surface to attach Its foot to. Food however is rarely a factor in this with host-anemones. Once you understand the needs of an anemone you can create the right conditions for it to stay in one place. When it comes to magnificas I would closely adhere to Minh's (OrionN) findings: 1. A magnifica wants to sit on the highest point it can reach. To make the anemone believe that it is on the highest point, place it on top of a rock structure that is far enough away from the tank walls and other rocks that the anemone can't touch them. Magnificas also prefer to attach to rather smooth and exposed surfaces. Also, unlike like most other anemones magnificas don't like to put their foot into a cavity. 2. Magnificas like relatively strong, non-turbulent flow. So it is best to have it in the return flow of a pump rather than targeting it directly with the pump output. 3. Magnificas like to get a lot of light. So ideally you place it directly under a point light source. If you follow this the magnifica should stay put in the place you created for it. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk __________________ Pairs: 4 percula, 3 P. kauderni, 3 D. excisus, 1 ea of P. diacanthus, S. splendidus, C. altivelis O. rosenblatti, D. janssi, S. yasha & a Gramma loreto trio 3 P. diacanthus. 2 C. starcki Current Tank Info: 200 gal 4 tank system (40x28x24 + 40B + 40B sump tank + 20g refugium) + 30x18x18 mixed reef + 20g East Pacific biotop + 20g FW +...