tahitian Maxima Clams 6" wild - Page 2

SUPERSTOCKRACER · 05/09/2013, 05:37 AM

my 2.5-3" cultured maximas are growing and I have had them for 4 months and my squamosa is also doing great.

SUPERSTOCKRACER · 05/09/2013, 03:57 PM

just got off the phone with a supplier of these Tahitian maxima clams and he says that they come from very shallow water and they need to be up high in the tank, that's why they died,too deep of a tank with LED'S not being the right spectrum.
Whats your take on this?

Giovanni · 05/09/2013, 04:03 PM

The 6" I have is not over extending and reaching for light. I also have 8 ai sol blues on for over 12 hours a day. What spectrum of light do they need that is not being supplied? Is this comment based on research or speculation? I will move mine higher and see how it reacts.

dtt · 05/09/2013, 06:25 PM

I don't know what the supplier is saying or is he the retailer, (name ??) these clams ARE NOT collected in shallow water. I have been to Tahiti 3x and have seen these clams on my last visit and where they are collected. (from the collector I met, and if you are planning a trip to Tahiti, meet with them and check them out, they are more than happy to give you a tour) I have seen Maxima's at 30 feet when diving. The water out in the atolls is super clean.

LED vs MH lighting is a issue for each of us to make there own determination. I am happy with my LED's since I switched over. A 3:1 ratio is approx a 20K temp and my clams are happy. Most of the wholesalers and LFS have switched over to LED systems so there must be something about them that is good. Look in your local Fish Store and see some of the conditions of there tanks that they sell from. Tell tail signs of the health of the animals. They mix all sorts of corals and clams together in there tanks which is not the best thing to do.

I also had the opportunity to visit the clam farm in the Marshall Islands years ago and I will say it was disgusting. Now that ORA has purchased it I'm sure its 100% better.

There is all ways a reason why a clam or any live stock dies. Poor shipping or handling, collecting, reefer, not every collectors of these clams collect the same nor are there storage facilities the best. If you get a clam with a dirty shell un scrubbed then that tells a lot.

Poor water chemistry, heat or lack or the proper chemicals or nutrients are the reasons why these clams are dying.

You can have an outstanding reef tank and still not meet the needs of these clams, keeping them alive and healthy and growing.

But to each there own, doesn't mean I am right or I am wrong. Just my 2 cents.

Look at your system and see whats wrong and figure out why they die. These clams are at least 5-8 years old and strong.

If your reef tanks is geared towards certain types of coral that need higher temperatures or a different cycle of chemicals then maybe clams are not for you.

I truely believe that having a dosing pump in critical...

What works for one reefer may not work for another reefer....

jda · 05/09/2013, 09:47 PM

The people at PEA swear that the imported clams are all from 6' or less water. I also have no doubt that they exist elsewhere at deeper depths. There are probably a ton of different collectors too. There are pictures of troughs full of these things in waist deep water that were collected and are waiting to get shipped.

I also agree that people have too clean of tanks for large clams and that they are underfed with either lights, DOC or both.

I don't really care to get into a MH vs LED debate, but I would caution anybody not to base any kind of comparison on what wholesalers or LFS use... their goals are not the same as ours. We need to care about long term issues and their goal is to move stuff. Displays at either can be different, but sometimes they use free/display type of equipment - I have known several high end shop owners who use different stuff at their stores than they do in their own homes because of margin, discount, etc. I would suggest that you base any comparison on hobbyist tanks that you see in person.

ca1ore · 05/20/2013, 02:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jda

I don't really care to get into a MH vs LED debate, but I would caution anybody not to base any kind of comparison on what wholesalers or LFS use... their goals are not the same as ours. We need to care about long term issues and their goal is to move stuff.

Was about to make this very point. LEDs may yet prove to be a long-term solution, but since the vast majority of LFS keep livestock for only a short period of time, that longevity is moot to them. It is interesting that at my LFS, their long-term display tank is primarily lit with MH, with LED only as a supplement.

SUPERSTOCKRACER · 06/15/2013, 07:54 AM

I just want to give an update. My squamosal and maxima under halide lighting is growing and doing great. I have them up high and another on the sand bed.These clams are going well for over a year now.Maybe more.
I'm nervous as hell to get another for my 300 gl.AI Sol blue lighted tank.Unless I put it right up at the top from the start, I'm also thinking about getting a AI Vega or AI Hydra.
Any opinions?

jda · 06/15/2013, 08:15 AM

While certainly not impossible, I would not keep any clams under LED personally. Long-term success under LED appears to be the exception and there are too many stories about long-time reefers having clams (and other creatures) going down hill after replacing their ATI or Halide Setups with LEDs. You already know the answer based on your other thread where all of the ones in the 300G died. IMO, it is not your Sol, it is all LEDs. If you want some clams in that tank, then put a halide over that part - used, high quality halides are cheap anymore... if is cheaper to run a halide than lose 1 clam at $60-100.

SUPERSTOCKRACER · 06/16/2013, 07:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GnbPkrs

Lost my tahitian maxima after 5 weeks. First 4 1/2 weeks it looked amazing, then took 2 days to go completely down hill

Water params and lighting all in check.

what lighting do you have?
this seems to be the norm. these days.

SUPERSTOCKRACER · 06/16/2013, 04:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GnbPkrs

2x250w halides w/ 2x80w t5s

Now after seeing you use Halides, I'm totally at a loss. I was just going to buy a 400 watt Blueline pendant to put in the middle of my tank and try another shot at a blue maxima wild.
I'm gun shy after this reply.

rc4kinu · 06/16/2013, 07:03 PM

I have one for a year now under mix of LED and T5. I also believe that shipping stress is what does them in. I also believe that supplemental feeding when first introduced to any aquarium is the key, especially after a long dark holding facility and dark shipping box. I fed mine live phyto and coral smoothie for the first several weeks. Afterwards its just light and fish food.

FLSharkvic · 05/11/2017, 07:00 AM

I am going on day 5 and this about much as this Blue Maxima Clam has opened up for me, see pic.. My po4 is sitting 0.03 and my temp is @ 77.1 degrees and my salinity is @ 1.023 all of my other parameters are spot on. I have sitting on a Ledge and wedge up so he can move so he will attach to the small pcs of rock. Also, I have two AI Hydra 26's HD LED's and the claim is about 10'' from the top of the water line. Then the LEDs is about another 8'' from the water so I know he is getting plenty of light. I don't really know how long they take to open up fully but I am getting a little worried. Let me know your thoughts?

jda · 05/12/2017, 04:57 PM

Here is my one-paragraph Tahitian primer: They are very hard clams. Success rate is very low. Attaching is very good. They can "jump" once attached. They can look really good for months and months and then die in just a day with no prior signs of distress - this is what clams do, so if this happens, don't go searching for something a cause or something to change in your tank. Most need the highest of high output lights (MH) and need to be kept near the top. The only positive sign that they can give is if they put on new shell growth - don't confuse this for where the mantle keeps the shell white, but actually new growth which will come fast if it happens.

Basicly, it will do what it wants when it wants and there is little that you can do about it except for keep the water quality high.

05/09/2013, 04:03 PM	#28
Giovanni AKA Flippa Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: KY Posts: 2,207 Blog Entries: 8	The 6" I have is not over extending and reaching for light. I also have 8 ai sol blues on for over 12 hours a day. What spectrum of light do they need that is not being supplied? Is this comment based on research or speculation? I will move mine higher and see how it reacts. __________________ Giovanni Most of My Money I Spent On Whiskey, Women and Reefing, The Rest I Just Waisted! Current Tank Info: 180 Mixed Reef

05/09/2013, 06:25 PM	#29
dtt Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Posts: 452	I don't know what the supplier is saying or is he the retailer, (name ??) these clams ARE NOT collected in shallow water. I have been to Tahiti 3x and have seen these clams on my last visit and where they are collected. (from the collector I met, and if you are planning a trip to Tahiti, meet with them and check them out, they are more than happy to give you a tour) I have seen Maxima's at 30 feet when diving. The water out in the atolls is super clean. LED vs MH lighting is a issue for each of us to make there own determination. I am happy with my LED's since I switched over. A 3:1 ratio is approx a 20K temp and my clams are happy. Most of the wholesalers and LFS have switched over to LED systems so there must be something about them that is good. Look in your local Fish Store and see some of the conditions of there tanks that they sell from. Tell tail signs of the health of the animals. They mix all sorts of corals and clams together in there tanks which is not the best thing to do. I also had the opportunity to visit the clam farm in the Marshall Islands years ago and I will say it was disgusting. Now that ORA has purchased it I'm sure its 100% better. There is all ways a reason why a clam or any live stock dies. Poor shipping or handling, collecting, reefer, not every collectors of these clams collect the same nor are there storage facilities the best. If you get a clam with a dirty shell un scrubbed then that tells a lot. Poor water chemistry, heat or lack or the proper chemicals or nutrients are the reasons why these clams are dying. You can have an outstanding reef tank and still not meet the needs of these clams, keeping them alive and healthy and growing. But to each there own, doesn't mean I am right or I am wrong. Just my 2 cents. Look at your system and see whats wrong and figure out why they die. These clams are at least 5-8 years old and strong. If your reef tanks is geared towards certain types of coral that need higher temperatures or a different cycle of chemicals then maybe clams are not for you. I truely believe that having a dosing pump in critical... What works for one reefer may not work for another reefer.... Last edited by dtt; 05/09/2013 at 06:30 PM.

05/09/2013, 05:37 AM	#26
SUPERSTOCKRACER Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 192	my 2.5-3" cultured maximas are growing and I have had them for 4 months and my squamosa is also doing great.

05/09/2013, 03:57 PM	#27
SUPERSTOCKRACER Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 192	just got off the phone with a supplier of these Tahitian maxima clams and he says that they come from very shallow water and they need to be up high in the tank, that's why they died,too deep of a tank with LED'S not being the right spectrum. Whats your take on this?

05/09/2013, 09:47 PM	#30
jda Dogmatic Dinosaur Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Boulder, CO Posts: 6,256	The people at PEA swear that the imported clams are all from 6' or less water. I also have no doubt that they exist elsewhere at deeper depths. There are probably a ton of different collectors too. There are pictures of troughs full of these things in waist deep water that were collected and are waiting to get shipped. I also agree that people have too clean of tanks for large clams and that they are underfed with either lights, DOC or both. I don't really care to get into a MH vs LED debate, but I would caution anybody not to base any kind of comparison on what wholesalers or LFS use... their goals are not the same as ours. We need to care about long term issues and their goal is to move stuff. Displays at either can be different, but sometimes they use free/display type of equipment - I have known several high end shop owners who use different stuff at their stores than they do in their own homes because of margin, discount, etc. I would suggest that you base any comparison on hobbyist tanks that you see in person.

06/15/2013, 07:54 AM	#32
SUPERSTOCKRACER Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 192	I just want to give an update. My squamosal and maxima under halide lighting is growing and doing great. I have them up high and another on the sand bed.These clams are going well for over a year now.Maybe more. I'm nervous as hell to get another for my 300 gl.AI Sol blue lighted tank.Unless I put it right up at the top from the start, I'm also thinking about getting a AI Vega or AI Hydra. Any opinions?

06/15/2013, 08:15 AM	#33
jda Dogmatic Dinosaur Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Boulder, CO Posts: 6,256	While certainly not impossible, I would not keep any clams under LED personally. Long-term success under LED appears to be the exception and there are too many stories about long-time reefers having clams (and other creatures) going down hill after replacing their ATI or Halide Setups with LEDs. You already know the answer based on your other thread where all of the ones in the 300G died. IMO, it is not your Sol, it is all LEDs. If you want some clams in that tank, then put a halide over that part - used, high quality halides are cheap anymore... if is cheaper to run a halide than lose 1 clam at $60-100.

06/16/2013, 07:03 PM	#36
rc4kinu Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Orlando, FL Posts: 344	I have one for a year now under mix of LED and T5. I also believe that shipping stress is what does them in. I also believe that supplemental feeding when first introduced to any aquarium is the key, especially after a long dark holding facility and dark shipping box. I fed mine live phyto and coral smoothie for the first several weeks. Afterwards its just light and fish food.

05/12/2017, 04:57 PM	#38
jda Dogmatic Dinosaur Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Boulder, CO Posts: 6,256	Here is my one-paragraph Tahitian primer: They are very hard clams. Success rate is very low. Attaching is very good. They can "jump" once attached. They can look really good for months and months and then die in just a day with no prior signs of distress - this is what clams do, so if this happens, don't go searching for something a cause or something to change in your tank. Most need the highest of high output lights (MH) and need to be kept near the top. The only positive sign that they can give is if they put on new shell growth - don't confuse this for where the mantle keeps the shell white, but actually new growth which will come fast if it happens. Basicly, it will do what it wants when it wants and there is little that you can do about it except for keep the water quality high.