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12/15/2019, 06:46 PM | #1 |
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Tap water Quality
I’m just getting back into the planning stages of a new tank - and the logistics of using an RO/DI unit in my new place is rather challenging.
I’ve tested the TDS of my tap water and it’s 013ppm, which is very low for tap water, but is it enough to use in a reef tank? Would love to get some opinions on this. |
12/15/2019, 08:51 PM | #2 |
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The problem is that we don't have a good way to know what's in that 13 ppm. 13 ppm of calcium and sulfate would be fine. 13 ppm of copper would be a disaster. Also, in some districts, water quality can vary over time. People have lost tanks when the water company added a shot of anti-corrosive (zinc, if my memory is correct) to the water, for example. Personally, I would use a RO/DI unit, but you might be fine without one.
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Jonathan Bertoni |
12/15/2019, 11:40 PM | #3 | |
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I’m wondering how effective an on faucet unit would be:
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/b...-0621047p.html For the price, I might just buy one and then test the water to see if I can get it to near zero. Quote:
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12/16/2019, 10:12 PM | #4 |
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The Brita filter can help with taste and lead. I'm not so sure about other contaminants. Typically, they have a sediment filter and activated carbon.
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Jonathan Bertoni |
12/17/2019, 03:25 PM | #5 |
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There are RO/DI units that can be hooked up to the faucet and stored away when not in use. Wit a TDS of 13 you might be able to just run a DI cartridge to get to zero.
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Gary 180 gallon, 40 gallon sump, 3 250 W MH + 4 80W ATI T5's, MTC MVX 36 Skimmer, Apex controller Aquamaxx T-3 CaRx Current Tank Info: A 2 Barred Rabbitfish, Red Head Salon, Yellow/Purple, McMaster Fairy, Possum, 2 Leopard Wrasses, Kole, & Atlantic Blue Tangs, 2 Percula Clown, 3 PJ and 1 Banggai Cardinalfish , Swallowtail, Bellus and Coral Beauty Angels |
12/17/2019, 03:41 PM | #6 |
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TDS really doesn't measure everything unfortunately. Particularly if it's municipal water, there could be other chemicals lurking in the water that would negatively affect the tank, particularly chlorine, chloramine, or other additives.
However, you may be able to get a quality report from the water company, and use that to determine what else may be in the water. -Hans
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This hobby would be easier if my local stores had more fish. https://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2701233 Current Tank Info: Slowly stocking up 150 gallons, only a little livestock right now. |
12/18/2019, 03:51 AM | #7 |
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Thanks guys. Looks like I’m going to have to figure out a way to make RO/DI work.
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01/02/2020, 11:54 AM | #8 |
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You can get an adapter that just screws onto the end of the kitchen faucet. It has a valve on it to switch the flow from just the faucet to the RODI unit. I got mine from Air, Water, Ice.
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01/02/2020, 03:15 PM | #9 |
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Well by law they have to give you whats actually in your water source. They would have this online most likely a report. Tap water is regulated and has to be tested regularly by law. Most water company's use Chloramine which you will need a special filter for. The only way to know is look at the water test report as I said they can send you a report or can get it online.
Wait your in Canada so those laws maybe different. Chloramine is used more now than chlorine not that it's better but more stable. This is a major issue now as you need a special filter to get rid of that if it's used. In my system I have Sediment/Carbon/Chloramine Carbon Filter/99% Reject Rate Membrane and than finally DI. However ,my tds here is a whopping 476. I have well water and usually the worse kind of water for drinking, lol. My water company changes from chlorine to chloramine periodically as most do now. Last edited by tomreefer; 01/02/2020 at 03:21 PM. |
01/03/2020, 11:49 AM | #10 | |
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Quote:
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300g custom acrylic from James 72x36x27, 4 Mitras Lx7 &6 a360, 2 Stream 3s, C2C beananimal. 100g sump, Jebao DCP- 8000 (Vectra M1 died) -> 114w aquauv -> SRO 5000ext , varios8 return Current Tank Info: Me v Dinos - I'm winning for now... |
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