Initial planning stages for tank and fish room

[Bilk]

Originally Posted by Mysticalknight

nice build so far, that rolling sump platform is an awesome idea!

Thanks. I hate having to reach/crawl under a tank. I think the platform will work as planned. I needed/wanted to put something for the equipment to sit on anyway, so adding a few casters wasn't much addition work.

[reefish123]

Sweet man happy for you..

I was talking to Tony Vargas this last weekend at ReefaPalooza he actually did recommend the cannons he's has his tank for a few months and as noticed great sps growing well. He highly recommend them.

I have basically tried just about every light out in the market my current lighting is ATI T5 led powermodule.

Anyhow be sure to keep those pictures comming.

[reefish123]

As for rock I use cerameco great company for ceramic rock no critters just be sure to cycle also ask for their detox blocks 10x more pourous than live rock.

[DrHarryLopez]

Amazing build you have going there Bill. Very nice having you over to our club meeting. Keep up the great work. Hope to see soon.

[acesq]

Great build you have going! I'd love to know more about the construction of the light support assembly. Can you refer me to the CanReef thread or give me more details of how you constructed it? Thanks.

Art

[Bilk]

Thanks Harry and thanks for having me. Nice group

I didn't get as much done as I wanted to, but the plumbing got a good start. Some of it is just loose fitted, but most is glued or taped and threaded.

I'm missing a few little pieces like threaded bushings for the in-tank returns - the Locline is 3/4" while the return bulkheads are 1" (the Locline on each return is split into two outlets of 3/4"), and a 1 1/2" valve for the pump so I can disconnect it without draining the sump. They were out of stock when I ordered. The pump is connected just for show

I managed to make the additional sump chamber for the DSB or what ever I end up doing with it. It's not as pretty as the Elite Aquatics sump, but it holds water LOL The way it's set up, the sump will run at about 9" with plenty of room for back flow from the tank in the even of a pump failure or outage, though I'm hoping the swing check valve prevents a lot of back flow. The additional sump has three sections with the center being the largest and where the additional biological filtering will happen, be it a DSB, ATS, refugium or what ever. The additional chamber increased the operating volume by 10g. Not an ocean, but it helps and it also gives me more room for additional filtration techniques. However it did also increase the volume for back flow from the tank significantly. Now there's a nice cushion.

I'm not sure how well the flex pvc will "flex" in order for me to roll the platform out from under the tank while operational. I may have to go to pool hose for the flexibility. I won't know until the sump is weighed down with a volume of water. Right now the flex pvc too rigid and pushes things around when pulled out.

There's a 2" bulkhead between the two sump chambers. I think it's adequate for the flow I'll be running, but again, I won't know much until it's test run for leaks. But here are some pics of where things stand.













I still have to paint the stand, set up the control panel for the Apex and other electronics and finish the mixing station. I'm sure there's something I'm forgetting - oh yeah, paint the floor. It's sealed, but I think I may paint it, though it won't be a tragedy if I don't LOL

[Bilk]

Originally Posted by acesq

Great build you have going! I'd love to know more about the construction of the light support assembly. Can you refer me to the CanReef thread or give me more details of how you constructed it? Thanks.

Art

Hi Art. Thanks. The framing that holds the lights is made from EZ Tubes. If you're talking about the mechanism that lowers and raises the lights, I'll PM you the link. Not sure links to other reef sights are allowed here It wasn't complicated, but it was a pain to make if that makes sense. You have to think upside down LOL But it works pretty well. I think I will be adding the linear actuator to it in the not too distant future, to make it motorized.

[Bilk]

I'm going to ask, but I think I know what I might have to do. The tank builder didn't polish the teeth on the overflow. I suspect this will not only allow organic deposits to cling to and block flow, but also be more restrictive to flow. Should I polish them and if so, how? Any acrylic masters in the house? It's 3/4" acrylic. Would I be able to flame polish them? Is that advisable? Or should I use a Dremel for this?

[jarrett shark]

Bill tank build looks great!!!!
Send me that link also I need to find something for my lights
Was the Ez tubes something you can buy local?

[Bilk]

We got wet today!

I finished the plumbing and decided to fill this baby to test for leaks. I filled both sumps first to see if the bulkheads were sound. Check! Not a drop. Then I took the plunge. Only way to test the pipes is to fill the tank and run the pump. So I filled it with tap water.

Man I have to say I didn't do too bad. One leak in the lot. Oh and a leak from the bulkhead in the ETSS skimmer. I can't figure out how to get a tool inside the skimmer body to tighten it enough. I anticipated that leaking so it doesn't count LOL



Since it's leaking from a glued connection, I guess my only option is to remove that section back to the union and replace it.

The bad boy is plumb and level and plumb spot on in as far as the wall opening goes. I wasn't sure how deep this tank would run, so the height of the opening to view the tank thru was an educated guess. I nailed it! Heck, even when the pump is powered off, the tank level only drops 3/4" so the water line still isn't visible from the front.



Some more pics and observations. In so far as observations, a DC pump is the shizzle. The Jebao DC 1200 is awesome! It's darn quiet too. And is it fun to play with, having the ability of dialing it up and down is something I don't think I would want to go without. I'm thinking of getting another for the skimmer. The pump has a slow, quiet start which is really nice. The feed timer works really well with the controller, but I purchased a link cable that will work with the Apex so I can control it with programming.



That's the max I can run. I don't think the overflow can supply any more. Speaking of the overflow, it works perfectly! It's silent and I guess is providing about 1800gph - 2200gph or so. Beananimal, you're a genius!



Not a gurgle to be heard. I just have to put that hose on the top of the second drain for it to be complete, but that pipe right now is maybe draining 1/5 the volume it can hold. Maybe less. The water just gently slides down that emergency drain ever so quietly. Most of the flow is thru the siphon and that's dead silent. Amazing!

The check valve works and holds, so there's no back siphon from the returns.



Some miscellaneous pics of the rest of the filling and plumbing.












Still more work to be done. I guess the mixing station is next.

PS I did find out that the foe PVC is not flexible enough for allowing the platform to roll out from under the tank. That will take something like the Eshopps hose for it to work. So I will be making that change in the not too distant future. Right now I want to get everything running and the bugs worked out so I can move fish and corals from the breeder I have them in now.

[Newbie Aquarist]

Your plumbing is very clean. I also love your sump design.

[Bilk]

Originally Posted by Newbie Aquarist

Your plumbing is very clean. I also love your sump design.

Thanks Newbie. I actually get the most frustrated when doing the plumbing and it's my weakest skill in the process. I already see some areas that need improvement. Not because of flow, but because of serviceability. I thought I had all contingencies accounted for, but I see where I missed some. I'll be making some changes in the near future.

[owenspackman]

I love the plumbing, how does the Flex Tubing glue to the rigid PVC? Same primer and glue as a normal rigid PVC to PVC?

Does it provide a better, cleaner join that flex tubing to barb fitting?

I am planning to use flex tubing on a frag tank build, but I also want rigid PVC at the bulkheads, trying to figure out the best option.

[Bilk]

Originally Posted by owenspackman

I love the plumbing, how does the Flex Tubing glue to the rigid PVC? Same primer and glue as a normal rigid PVC to PVC?

Does it provide a better, cleaner join that flex tubing to barb fitting?

I am planning to use flex tubing on a frag tank build, but I also want rigid PVC at the bulkheads, trying to figure out the best option.

I used the Rain & Shine glue. The blue stuff. I also primed them with clear primer, though it says it's not necessary. I glued the flex to 45 degree elbows and then glued a piece of 1" rigid pipe into the other end. That end is dry fit into a male adapter that's screwed into the sump bracing. I'll take some pics and post.

It's my first time using flex, but I did read another post that said glued fittings with flex are much better than barb fittings. Makes sense as the flex pvc is meant to be glued to fittings rather than have them inserted. Other's have said they got the same results with regular pvc glue, but it was cheap enough to just buy what was recommended. When it's set/dried, it's still flexible, unlike the regular glue, which dries to a hard finish.

I actually like the Rain & Shine. I used it on the inside of a fitting that was already glued, but leaking a little. (See my pic above) It has a lower viscosity than the regular glue and flows well. It, however also sets faster. But it worked. I ran the brush with the glue around the inside of the joint and it filled where ever it was leaking from.

[owenspackman]

Originally Posted by Bilk

I used the Rain & Shine glue. The blue stuff. I also primed them with clear primer, though it says it's not necessary. I glued the flex to 45 degree elbows and then glued a piece of 1" rigid pipe into the other end. That end is dry fit into a male adapter that's screwed into the sump bracing. I'll take some pics and post.

It's my first time using flex, but I did read another post that said glued fittings with flex are much better than barb fittings. Makes sense as the flex pvc is meant to be glued to fittings rather than have them inserted. Other's have said they got the same results with regular pvc glue, but it was cheap enough to just buy what was recommended. When it's set/dried, it's still flexible, unlike the regular glue, which dries to a hard finish.

I actually like the Rain & Shine. I used it on the inside of a fitting that was already glued, but leaking a little. (See my pic above) It has a lower viscosity than the regular glue and flows well. It, however also sets faster. But it worked. I ran the brush with the glue around the inside of the joint and it filled where ever it was leaking from.

thanks for the info, i'd love to see the photos you mentioned. Like you, it will be my first time using flex, so i'm appreciative of the advice!

[Bilk]

Originally Posted by owenspackman

thanks for the info, i'd love to see the photos you mentioned. Like you, it will be my first time using flex, so i'm appreciative of the advice!

Well it's not much to look at and you can even see the Rain & Shine where I was a little careless Pretty much glue/weld flex just like rigid pipe. Just be sure to hold it with some pressure for a few seconds. However the stuff cures/dries pretty darn fast. Make sure you get a nice "square" cut on the flex, so it seats well at the bottom of the fitting.

[Bilk]

Doing something else that frustrates me. No matter how much room you think you've provided for this stuff and the wiring, it always ends up feeling like cramming 10lbs of bologna into a 5lb bag.





I think I have 5 more transformers to mount. Hope I left enough room for them LOL

I actually may get to start this thing up with saltware in the next day or so

................................

[owenspackman]

thanks for the photo Bilk. And that wiring is neat, love it. What Apex modules do you have there?

[Bilk]

Originally Posted by owenspackman

thanks for the photo Bilk. And that wiring is neat, love it. What Apex modules do you have there?

I have the WXM and salinity module. Nothing special

Man it doesn't look like much when it's all tucked away, but routing the wires based on their length is a test of will. Then when you forget something.........


But it's mostly done now. Just a few more wires to go ....... I think





Oh the lights are hot now too. Just have to figure out how to use the VS ports on the Apex for the lights.




Moving along ................................. Almost seems like an endless process LOL

[worm5406]

Awsome. Clean efficient....

When are you coming over? I need help with mine.

[Bilk]

Originally Posted by worm5406

Awsome. Clean efficient....

When are you coming over? I need help with mine.

Thanks. When my brain lock goes away and I can see straight again.

So I thought I had asked about sources for rock, but maybe that was a post I never got to. I also want to know about getting the tank running with what I have now and then adding to it. Never did that before. I maybe have 35-40 lbs of rock from the 50 that's now in the breeder with the corals and fish. I'd like to vamoose the breeder real soon. It's sitting on a furniture dolly with wires hanging all over the place. Servicing it isn't fun. Can I put the substrate in the new tank and fill the DSB in the sump and get the cycle started with just that? Then add what I have until I decide on what direction to go with additional rock? I was looking at rock from gulfliverock - the coralline encrusted tank farmed stuff. They claim no curing is necessary. Other suggestions are appreciated so I have options.

[dave.m]

I wouldn't try moving the substrate unless you want to first rinse it all out clean by hand. If moving live rock from one tank to another make sure it is the last thing you move as it is probably full of detritus that you don't want to pollute your new tank with and will need a good shaking out.

Dave.M

[petere1989]

Nice build. I like how you incorporated the iPad to it. What were you going to use that for? the Apex I'm guessing but I'm itching to know if theres another reason. Anyway, great build and i'll be looking for updates!

[Bilk]

Originally Posted by dave.m

I wouldn't try moving the substrate unless you want to first rinse it all out clean by hand. If moving live rock from one tank to another make sure it is the last thing you move as it is probably full of detritus that you don't want to pollute your new tank with and will need a good shaking out.

Dave.M

Just happen to be stalking the forums Oh not moving the old sand. It's actually long gone. The rock and livestock are in a breeder bar bottom. I was talking about putting the new sand in the tank and the sump where I'll have a remote DSB. Do you think I can start a cycle and a biological filter that way, using the usual methods? Then I want to add a larger quantity of cured rock down the road.

I've never added rock after the fact. Tanks I've set up, I've placed the rock I wanted into the tank at the beginning. Would the DSB be enough to overcome an mini cycle?

[owenspackman]

Originally Posted by Bilk

I have the WXM and salinity module. Nothing special

Man it doesn't look like much when it's all tucked away, but routing the wires based on their length is a test of will. Then when you forget something.........


But it's mostly done now. Just a few more wires to go ....... I think

thats the one module i need to get (the salinity module). Have you had a chance to run it yet? If so, are you happy with its performance?