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Unread 12/31/2011, 09:05 PM   #251
lowfi
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Hey everyone!

Just found out about aquastyles and this is a great thread for information. I hate to be another "what kit should I buy" person, but I guess I am.

I just setup a 90 gallon reef which I mainly would like to feature SPS. The tank is 48x24 but the opening of the top of the tank is only 44x11.5". Being mainly for SPS, I want to get the largest dimmable kit that aquastyles sells. Would this give good enough par readings for the majority of the tank and would I be able to fit the needed heat sinks in the space provided? I would love a phoenix 14k look to the color spectrum, and if I would like more blue later just add a few more blue led strips. So will the 90 kit be enough or should I get more? These DIY kits are much more affordable than the other leds on the market (ai, radion, etc.) What optics should I get, the 60 or the 80's?

How do these bulbs compare to cree's, or do we not have that information yet? How many electrical cords do you need to plug in for the 90 kit?

Thanks so much everyone for the help. If I actually do decide to pull the trigger, putting it all together will really scare the crap out of me.


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Unread 12/31/2011, 11:18 PM   #252
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Originally Posted by 00Warpig00 View Post
I have confirmed tonight that the Maxwellen LED drivers will NOT work with a 0-10V reference voltage to dim and ONLY work with potentiometers.

I was under the impression that the Maxwellens produced their own internal reference voltage. We would need someone to put a multimeter on the dimmer wires to see what that voltage is.

How exactly did you confirm that the 0-10v won't work? I'm just curious.



Quote:
The Dim wires on the Maxewllen's are not polarized. I used a single aaa battery and two aaa batteries in series to put across the dimmer wires to test. Both voltages 1.5/3V gave the same results. When hooked up in one polarity they caused the drivers to turn off output completely. When the polarity was reversed the drivers acted like they were creating a lightning effect. The LED's would flash at full brightness for a couple milliseconds and then turn off and then flash again. Really looked like lightning effect.


I'm not following what you are saying. Let me see if I am understanding you correctly.

You used AA batteries for a 1.5 and 3 volt signal and applied that to the dimmer wires, right?

If that's the case, and if these Maxwellens produce their own reference voltage, you're risking blowing the dimmer. Some LED drivers have tender dimmers and if they get too much voltage, things go wrong.

This would entirely explain the odd results you got but contradict what you're saying about the polarity. How did you decide that they were not polarized?

First-- you said that the dimmer wires were not polarized. I can't see how this is true at all. Any DC system is polarized. One of those wires has to be + and one -. When you applied the batteries in the position that shut the light off, you basically were giving it reversed voltage (ie just blocking the voltage signal altogether as current isn't going to flow backwards through the batteries). That's why the LEDs shut off. No voltage detected in the dimmer.

But when you hooked it up the other way, your LEDs did a lightening effect. I don't know what exactly the internal electronics were doing, but you effectively were giving it too much voltage and possibly wreaking havoc with your dimmer. Chances are the flashing/dimming effect were the capacitor charging and discharging, not quite sure what exactly to be doing with the excess voltage reference in the dimmer.




Is anyone dimming these with a 10K ohm pot? If so, and it's working a smooth linear 0-100% (or something similar) then they likely are a 10v reference. If that's the case, there should be some way to rig them up to accept a DIM4 or similar controller.


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Last edited by redfishsc; 12/31/2011 at 11:26 PM.
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Unread 01/01/2012, 12:39 AM   #253
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hey nemo i watched you video and love the aquascaping and looks like you have plenty of light


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Unread 01/01/2012, 11:40 AM   #254
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redfishsc View Post
I was under the impression that the Maxwellens produced their own internal reference voltage. We would need someone to put a multimeter on the dimmer wires to see what that voltage is.

Quote:
Originally Posted by redfishsc View Post
How exactly did you confirm that the 0-10v won't work? I'm just curious.
I put 1.5v and 3v (in two separate tests) across the two dimmer wires. I tried one polarity then the other. One polarity causes all the LED's to turn off. The other causes a lightning strobe effect. If they dim using 0-10V this would not happen in both polarities with both test voltages. I would get some result of lights constant on with one polarity and lights either brighter or dimmer with the same polarity and a slightly different voltage. Those were none of my results.

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Originally Posted by redfishsc View Post
I'm not following what you are saying. Let me see if I am understanding you correctly.

You used AA batteries for a 1.5 and 3 volt signal and applied that to the dimmer wires, right?
Correct

Quote:
Originally Posted by redfishsc View Post
If that's the case, and if these Maxwellens produce their own reference voltage, you're risking blowing the dimmer. Some LED drivers have tender dimmers and if they get too much voltage, things go wrong.
Yes I realize this... I was well aware of the risks. Even BEFORE I did it. That was a chance with one of my 4 maxwellen dimmers I was willing to take in the spirit of trying to find out something about them when NO tech info is available about them. Believe me I searched for days. They are potted and cannot be easily opened for closer examination also. The ONLY way is to experiment.

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Originally Posted by redfishsc View Post
This would entirely explain the odd results you got but contradict what you're saying about the polarity. How did you decide that they were not polarized?
Results odd.. yeah maybe... but consistent with two different (low) voltage levels in one polarity and consistent with two different (low) voltage levels with the other polarity. The results between polarities was not consistent, but truthfully I wouldn't expect it to be. I probably should have communicated better. The wires are not marked with a polarity they are both the same color and since there is no tech info/data sheets available I took a guess. Yes I realize I could have used a DVM to determine polarity and obviously there IS a polarity or there would be no way current could flow through the circuit. As I said I was willing to take the chance of killing one of my dimmers in the name of progress. Happy to report this did NOT happen. The dimmer survived having a 1.5V and a 3V source connected across the dimmer wires in both polarities and told me exactly what I wanted to know. It doesn't work. If they were controllable by an outside voltage source from 0-10VDC this would have netted me a result OTHER than the two results I got. I don't really care if I sacrifice one of these cheap maxwellen drivers in the name of progress. money well spent If I don't have to replace ALL of them with something more expensive. Since to meet my goals for my LED kit my only alternative is to replace all four of them with much more expensive drivers that I KNOW do what I want from the start it really doesn't much matter to me if I break an egg or two.


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Originally Posted by redfishsc View Post
First-- you said that the dimmer wires were not polarized. I can't see how this is true at all. Any DC system is polarized. One of those wires has to be + and one -.
Again I miss-communicated, the proper thing to say was the polarity of the dimmers was not marked, and I could not find tech info to tell me. I could have determined polarity with a DVM in half a second, If it wouldn't take me 10 minutes to dig my DVM back out. lol I can determine the same thing with the two batteries which I held in my hand via process of elimination in about 35 seconds. I agree completely one wire has to be negative and the other positive otherwise with no difference in potential (ie voltage) there can be no current flow and thus no circuit... or no reason for a circuit anyway You can have a circuit with no current flow but there is not much of a point unless the circuit is supposed to be off

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Originally Posted by redfishsc View Post
When you applied the batteries in the position that shut the light off, you basically were giving it reversed voltage (ie just blocking the voltage signal altogether as current isn't going to flow backwards through the batteries). That's why the LEDs shut off. No voltage detected in the dimmer.
Not entirely true. Do an experiment. Take a 9V battery then hook two 1.5V batteries in series (3V) hook the - terminal of the two 1.5V battery string to the - terminal of the 9V battery then take your DVM and measure from the + terminal of the 1.5V battery string with your negative lead on the + terminal of the 1.5 string and hook the + lead of your meter up to the + terminal of the 9V battery and tell me what you read. It's gonna be +6VDC. reverse your meter leads for -6VDC. If what you said above was entirely true you would read 0V.

Here is the part I don't think I mentioned earlier. If I short the dim wires together I get LED's full blast. DIM wires floating with infinite resistance I get some light but I would call it minimum brightness. So I have to make some assumptions here because my goal was to determine if the driver was controlled by a 0-10VDC. Again I didn't dig out my meter... maybe I will now just for fun, even though I'm satisfied it's not a 0-10V control in my own mind. It might be PWM I don't know I admittedly didn't test for this but it's NOT 10V or even 5VDC.

IF it was... I have to assume 10V is on one of the two dim wires and putting a resistance across the dim wires (a potentiometer in this case) causes a smaller voltage to be seen on the other wire. When both wires shorted together 10V on both wires = full bright. So when I hook a 1.5V battery or two to make 3V up trying both polarities I should see some things happen. lets say I have 10V and hook my 1.5 V up and end up with 11.5V on the "sense" wire. Could I get the "lightning effect" I describe. ABSOLUTELY I COULD. with the 3V. YES also. It wouldn't surprise me in the least and would actually make sense. But if I then hook up in the opposite polarity you will now see 8.5V on the "sense" wire. In a 0-10V range 8.5V should give me 85% brightness not lights out. 3V down from 10V should give me 7.0V or 70% brightness not lights out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by redfishsc View Post
But when you hooked it up the other way, your LED's did a lightening effect. I don't know what exactly the internal electronics were doing, but you effectively were giving it too much voltage and possibly wreaking havoc with your dimmer. Chances are the flashing/dimming effect were the capacitor charging and discharging, not quite sure what exactly to be doing with the excess voltage reference in the dimmer.
Agree completely this *could* have been what was going on "sense" wire input overload. but if it was over voltage on the "sense" wire reversing the polarity of my batteries would have netted my lights on at something other than 100% not lights out due to the fact that 1.5V or 3V of batteries is NOT going to reduce you to 0 current flow and 0 volts in a 10V circuit it would put you at 8.5V and 7V respectively and with a 5v sense circuit it would put you at 3.5V and 2V respectively and there would have been a result other than lights off in both cases.


Quote:
Originally Posted by redfishsc View Post
Is anyone dimming these with a 10K ohm pot? If so, and it's working a smooth linear 0-100% (or something similar) then they likely are a 10v reference. If that's the case, there should be some way to rig them up to accept a DIM4 or similar controller.
Not yet! I am going to experiment a little more I think. As I mentioned leaving the wires floating nets me lights on at what I will call the dimmest possible setting. GREAT for moonlights on a blue string in my opinion. So infinite resistance and still having lights on ALSO tells me this is not a 0-10V controlled dimmer. If it WAS a floating "sense" wire would most likely net me 0V on the "sense" and lights would be OFF not ON. My ENTIRE purpose for this experiment was to determine specifically if I could use a DIM4... funny you mention it. that's my goal. My alternatives are meanwells which I am told turn OFF at 10%. Another goal of mine is to dim to sunset (DIM4) I'm still looking for feedback on the inventronics dimmers which run very pricey but if they actually dim to 0% light I will gladly spend the money. my other option is to build my own driver. I have considered it, but frankly would rather spend the money for a pre made solution due time constraints on my part.

If anyone has any info/ideas... PLEASE feel free... I'm trying to slay this dragon. I want a sunrise/sunset light system that doesn't click off and startle my fish every night. I've already spent ~$300 on getting to this point. Trying to spend as little as possible but also want a solution that fits my goals. I cant be the only one who has this goal.

Nick


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Unread 01/01/2012, 01:21 PM   #255
nemosworld
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toad2169 View Post
hey nemo i watched you video and love the aquascaping and looks like you have plenty of light
Thanks! but looks can be deceiving, my par meter says i don't.
the way i have the channels spaced out right now, i get 180 par on the sandbed, and no more than about 2oo-230 in the middle, i think this is due to the optics and the spacing of the channels. towads the back i have the channels a little bit closer and infact get higher par in the middle of the tank.
this is why instead of adding more bridgelux leds, i am adding more cree's.
this will allow me to use less leds and get more par.
once i get the xml's in (did not order yet) i will play with the spacing and show final results.

in the meantime i highly suggest dual 72 led kits for tanks my size and larger.
this will allow you to place the leds closer together and get great par numbers.
all for the cost of a singe ai sol blue and less than a single AI phoenix, ooops-AI Vega. I also decided to keep the background dark so i could keep algae from growing on my diy foam rock wall and grow low light and NPS corals on it.


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Unread 01/01/2012, 01:44 PM   #256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowfi View Post
Hey everyone!

Just found out about aquastyles and this is a great thread for information. I hate to be another "what kit should I buy" person, but I guess I am.

I just setup a 90 gallon reef which I mainly would like to feature SPS. The tank is 48x24 but the opening of the top of the tank is only 44x11.5". Being mainly for SPS, I want to get the largest dimmable kit that aquastyles sells. Would this give good enough par readings for the majority of the tank and would I be able to fit the needed heat sinks in the space provided? I would love a phoenix 14k look to the color spectrum, and if I would like more blue later just add a few more blue led strips. So will the 90 kit be enough or should I get more? These DIY kits are much more affordable than the other leds on the market (ai, radion, etc.) What optics should I get, the 60 or the 80's?

How do these bulbs compare to cree's, or do we not have that information yet? How many electrical cords do you need to plug in for the 90 kit?

Thanks so much everyone for the help. If I actually do decide to pull the trigger, putting it all together will really scare the crap out of me.
the 72 or 90 kit will be fine, i would go with the 60 optics or mix if you can, 80 in center and 60 on outside. the cords are rated for 300v, i think it is safe to put 2 drivers on a cord. one for white and one for blue. in case you want them to turn on at diff times.


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Unread 01/01/2012, 01:44 PM   #257
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Originally Posted by 00Warpig00 View Post


Not entirely true. Do an experiment. Take a 9V battery then hook two 1.5V batteries in series (3V) hook the - terminal of the two 1.5V battery string to the - terminal of the 9V battery then take your DVM and measure from the + terminal of the 1.5V battery string with your negative lead on the + terminal of the 1.5 string and hook the + lead of your meter up to the + terminal of the 9V battery and tell me what you read. It's gonna be +6VDC. reverse your meter leads for -6VDC. If what you said above was entirely true you would read 0V.

Try that same experiment and set your meter to test for current and see if any current flows (I honestly am not sure whether current would pass or not but I am very skeptical). The dimmer requires some current flow at the right voltage; not just latent voltage.

Just because there is voltage doesn't mean current will flow--- you can charge a capacitor with DC and it will read whatever voltage you want, but there will be no current flow at all. Capacitors do not pass DC current, and I also don't think alkaline batteries will either (backwards at least). I'm willing to be wrong here though, but something shut the current flow on your dimmer from your test, and I think it was the reversed polarity that did it.

The dimmer does require at least some current flow even if there is a voltage reading, and I think your reversed polarity tests shut down all current flow.

Quote:
Again I didn't dig out my meter... maybe I will now just for fun, even though I'm satisfied it's not a 0-10V control in my own mind. It might be PWM I don't know I admittedly didn't test for this but it's NOT 10V or even 5VDC.
10v and 5v are the most common ones I've seen, and it's going to be 0 to something. Or else the potentiometer would be useless.

Quote:
IF it was... I have to assume 10V is on one of the two dim wires and putting a resistance across the dim wires (a potentiometer in this case) causes a smaller voltage to be seen on the other wire. When both wires shorted together 10V on both wires = full bright. So when I hook a 1.5V battery or two to make 3V up trying both polarities I should see some things happen. lets say I have 10V and hook my 1.5 V up and end up with 11.5V on the "sense" wire. Could I get the "lightning effect" I describe. ABSOLUTELY I COULD. with the 3V. YES also. It wouldn't surprise me in the least and would actually make sense. But if I then hook up in the opposite polarity you will now see 8.5V on the "sense" wire. In a 0-10V range 8.5V should give me 85% brightness not lights out. 3V down from 10V should give me 7.0V or 70% brightness not lights out.

You just described it just right, except for that last part. Just to restate what I said above, even if the reversed polarity did drop the voltage only a tiny amount, it's going to probably block all current flow. If you have no current flow, the dimmer won't work- it must have current even if there is a detectable potential (voltage) applied to it. Thus your reversed polarity tests netted you a "off" situation.



FWIW my Meanwells will turn on at 50mA. I just checked them (they are on digital current meters 100% of the time). It is a slightly sudden "on" but it's not that bad really. Quite dim.


Once you dig out the multimeter and test the voltage on the Maxwellen, and see if it is a 10v, then there must be some way you can use the DIM4. You would just cap off and not use the + wire on the dimmer. You may have to find a grounding place somewhere, may not




Here is a good test---- try connecting your batteries (3v) positive lead to the dimmer wires on your Maxewellen. One wire at a time.... see what happens.


You may have to run the battery's - wire down to a ground in your outlet or a power strip for this to work. I use Radio-shack battery holders for this, they are $2 and hold 2 AA batteries.


If you can do this---- + battery lead to the appropriate dimmer wire, - battery lead to ground.... and you get light..... then all you need to do is discover the max voltage of the dimmer's output and find a controller that can be programmed not to exceed that voltage.


Even if this is a 0-5v dimmer, the DIM4 should theoretically work as long as you don't set it to exceed the 5v max.


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Unread 01/01/2012, 02:52 PM   #258
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i agree nemo everyone's perception is going to be a little diferent, i have a 90 i'm am going to do led's on plus i plan on keeping the 2 bulb t5 retro i have because they just look that good..lol.. but plan on doing away with the MH and led combo i have in there. just havn't figured out what i need yet


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Unread 01/01/2012, 05:09 PM   #259
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redfishsc View Post
Try that same experiment and set your meter to test for current and see if any current flows (I honestly am not sure whether current would pass or not but I am very skeptical). The dimmer requires some current flow at the right voltage; not just latent voltage.
There is current flow, if their wasn't you would read 0V. The volt meter has current flowing through it and calculates voltage using ohms law based on the meter's known resistance and the current flow. This is how a DC volt meter works.

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Originally Posted by redfishsc View Post
Just because there is voltage doesn't mean current will flow--- you can charge a capacitor with DC and it will read whatever voltage you want, but there will be no current flow at all. Capacitors do not pass DC current, and I also don't think alkaline batteries will either (backwards at least). I'm willing to be wrong here though, but something shut the current flow on your dimmer from your test, and I think it was the reversed polarity that did it.

I have to admit it has been about 25 years since I took DC Electronics 101 but we did an actual experiment with multiple batteries in lab back in the 80's so I know this works. We used a light bulb for our load. I've actually done it. So unless batteries have changed to the point they have reverse polarity protection built in to them this should not have changed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by redfishsc View Post
The dimmer does require at least some current flow even if there is a voltage reading, and I think your reversed polarity tests shut down all current flow.
ALL circuits require current flow, unless they are off.





Quote:
Originally Posted by redfishsc View Post
10v and 5v are the most common ones I've seen, and it's going to be 0 to something. Or else the potentiometer would be useless.
Generally I have to agree with you. This is the puzzle.



Quote:
Originally Posted by redfishsc View Post
You just described it just right, except for that last part. Just to restate what I said above, even if the reversed polarity did drop the voltage only a tiny amount, it's going to probably block all current flow. If you have no current flow, the dimmer won't work- it must have current even if there is a detectable potential (voltage) applied to it. Thus your reversed polarity tests netted you a "off" situation.
The circuit is probably designed in a way that an outside voltage source will not work. Cant tell without a schematic of the Dimmer control.


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Originally Posted by redfishsc View Post
FWIW my Meanwells will turn on at 50mA. I just checked them (they are on digital current meters 100% of the time). It is a slightly sudden "on" but it's not that bad really. Quite dim.
Thanks for the info I will keep that in mind. Are your Meanwells hooked up to the bridgelux royal blue stars? if so would you consider a sting of 12 or more of them at minimum brightness to be too bright to be used as a moonlight at night. I'm trying to avoid even a slightly sudden on/off if at all possible. I would like to remove my fish's need to feel they need to frantically find a place to hide. If I had my whites shut off before my blues dimmed all the way down to minimum brightness but stay on all night as moonlights this would actually be ideal. I may dig out my meter and take some current readings with the maxwellen drivers at minimum bright just for reference.

Quote:
Originally Posted by redfishsc View Post
Once you dig out the multimeter and test the voltage on the Maxwellen, and see if it is a 10v, then there must be some way you can use the DIM4. You would just cap off and not use the + wire on the dimmer. You may have to find a grounding place somewhere, may not
I'd love to be able to use a DIM4 or any other controller for that matter I will probably dig more now that we have had this discussion, but I am still currently in the belief it will be a no go with the maxwellen's. Digital potentiometers on the other hand may come in handy. I have investigated that route with the maxwellens to a small degree.



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Originally Posted by redfishsc View Post
Here is a good test---- try connecting your batteries (3v) positive lead to the dimmer wires on your Maxewellen. One wire at a time.... see what happens.
connecting one lead of a battery is pointless. Kinda like clapping with one hand. lol I might as well just connect a piece of plastic or copper wire.


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Originally Posted by redfishsc View Post
You may have to run the battery's - wire down to a ground in your outlet or a power strip for this to work. I use Radio-shack battery holders for this, they are $2 and hold 2 AA batteries.
Agreed the other end of the battery would have to be connected somewhere. Earth ground... maybe... but I'm skeptical. Funny you mention the battery holder. One shipped with my aquastyle LED kit and it even has a handy on/off switch. This is what sparked my idea (pun intended) to try batteries in my test along with flashbacks to the 80's with our battery lab experiment in DC elect. 101.

Quote:
Originally Posted by redfishsc View Post
If you can do this---- + battery lead to the appropriate dimmer wire, - battery lead to ground.... and you get light..... then all you need to do is discover the max voltage of the dimmer's output and find a controller that can be programmed not to exceed that voltage.
I may try this just to tinker around with it. But I'm not expecting much...

Quote:
Originally Posted by redfishsc View Post
Even if this is a 0-5v dimmer, the DIM4 should theoretically work as long as you don't set it to exceed the 5v max.
Agree completely... in theory I'd only be able to use 512 of it's 1024 steps from 0-10V. this would be GREAT!

Nick


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Unread 01/01/2012, 06:24 PM   #260
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If you're just trying to dim the blues once you hit sunset and turn the whites off, put all your white drivers on one plug (hell you could use a timer strip for this too). Take your pot wires and find the polarity #1, put your common to the common of the 120v relay, the other wire will be split to 2 different pots, one to the normally closed contact of the relay and the other to the normally open contact of the relay.

Now bring the ac of your WHITES over to the relay coil to pick the contacts. That honestly to me seems the easiest way, but it won't be transitional, just straight to dim and back to bright when it comes on. You don't necessarily have to use your white's for the ac reference on the coil btw, just my idea. You could also use your fuge lighting as the trigger if it's on a reverse cycle, or whatever plug you would normally use for your blues (since you would be powering the blues 100% of the time, the only time to switch them would be to fall back to moonlighting). All viable options without using more precious programmable outlets :-P


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Unread 01/01/2012, 07:51 PM   #261
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Thanks for the info I will keep that in mind. Are your Meanwells hooked up to the bridgelux royal blue stars? if so would you consider a sting of 12 or more of them at minimum brightness to be too bright to be used as a moonlight at night.
The only Bridgelux LED's I own are actual true Bridgelux (402 whites) from Newark.com but they are 10-watt class. But, they do run at 50mA indeed.

A string of 12 Crees (or 8 Crees and two 10-watt BL402's) is way, way too bright for moonlight.

Hell, a single XPE at 300mA is gross overkill on a 45g tank. I bought a DealExtreme driver (300mA) just for this, and put a single XPE white on it, and it actually lights the tank up like a solar flare lol. So now I use that XPE as a reading lamp, no joke. I verified the current with my multimeter at about 300-350mA (depending on the power supply, for whatever reason).


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Unread 01/02/2012, 09:48 PM   #262
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Well I finally built mine. I went with 40 rb 8 6.5k and 24 10k. Got them all wired up and they are looking great. I put the drivers and the pots in a large project bow and have it mounted to the wall next to the tank. I decided to use a pot per driver that way I can dim one side of the tank if I need to acclimate corals and keep the other side at whatever intensity it is.

Right now I am running about 60% blue and 50% white. How long do I have to wait to turn it up a bit since I was coming from 250w halides? So far I am very pleased with the kit I just need to see how my corals like it. Here are some pictures. They are not the best since they are from my iPhone camera but they give a pretty good idea. They might look a little more purple in person.






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Unread 01/02/2012, 10:15 PM   #263
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Actually glad to finally see a 72 kit over a 75g tank lol. I was wondering how good my coverage was going to be. My kit won't be here till this week most likely though


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Unread 01/03/2012, 08:42 AM   #264
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What about led mixture, what are you using, right now i have 36 kit all white and RB but i need to get another kit when i start adding corals, so what leds should be in the mixture in my next kit??


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Unread 01/03/2012, 01:04 PM   #265
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arentspowell - Great Job! Very clean build.

I am surprised you can fine tune your blue and white to that fine a degree. Mine seem to take a big jump in intensity with the slightest movement of the rheostat?

I would give it a couple of weeks before you start turning up the intensity. I think I started mine too high and while nothing browned out, it did look stressed for awhile.


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Unread 01/03/2012, 05:21 PM   #266
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Putting aquastyles customer service to the test as we speak apparently Nothing major, they just put down the wrong shipping address with fedex (Order actually went out fairly quickly considering the holidays all over the world) and all they have to do on their end is update it.

They did create a new city in the process though, Marylanda, MA.

Don't take this as a complaint on the company though, just seeing how quickly they can fix it if it will delay me any. So far they've been great on communication and I can easily see this happening because I don't expect them to be familiar with the US like that

Probably 20% of Americans could screw that up with ease sadly


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Unread 01/03/2012, 10:51 PM   #267
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I'm thinking of putting their 14 LED, 7 RB and 7 of the 10K, dimmable kit over my 14 gal fuge. I've been in contact with them...I'm considering the dimmable Meanwell drivers instead of the included Maxwellen drivers. Apparently they allow substitutions. Anyway, I have a question that I couldn't get answered from them: are the dimmable Maxwells controllable with the ReefKeeper lite 1-10v capable controller? And, would you be able to simulate sunrise and sunset with that setup? Thanks in advance!


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Unread 01/04/2012, 01:06 PM   #268
zachts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Captain View Post
I'm thinking of putting their 14 LED, 7 RB and 7 of the 10K, dimmable kit over my 14 gal fuge. I've been in contact with them...I'm considering the dimmable Meanwell drivers instead of the included Maxwellen drivers. Apparently they allow substitutions. Anyway, I have a question that I couldn't get answered from them: are the dimmable Maxwells controllable with the ReefKeeper lite 1-10v capable controller? And, would you be able to simulate sunrise and sunset with that setup? Thanks in advance!
I've also been researching this subject but havn't found an answere yet.

As discused on page 10 of this thread, in theory it should work with the dim4 but someone needs to test the driver and find out.

Would anyone out there who is using Maxwellen driver and who owns a multimeter be willing to test the dim leads of thier driver. Just disconnect you potentiometer and measure the voltage between the wires when the driver is powered up. then power down, swicht you meter to measure currnt and measure the current being produced between the two wires. That should tell us all we need to know to determine how to set up the DIM4 to run this driver.

only other variable would be the that the two circuts need a common ground as you'd be caping off the + lead from the driver and not using the - lead from the DIM4. So as long as long as both circuts go to a common ground (ie, the wall outlet) then it should work "in theory".

if you don't have a DIM4 handy then a wall wort that outputs the appropriate current at a voltage somewhere between 1-10volts (assuming you measured 10volts with the multimeter) will give us the same answer as to whether this is doable.


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Unread 01/04/2012, 02:24 PM   #269
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Just put in my order for the 36 diy dimmable and 72 dimmable kits to cover my 125 gallon 72-18-21d. The LEDs will be roughly 7" off of the water.

I did order some extra 80 deg lenses to help with the spread if needed. I just need to find some 6' c-channels.

I will try to find someone with a meter to check the par once the lights are put together.

What is the Diameter of the LED star?



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Unread 01/04/2012, 04:25 PM   #270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Captain View Post
I'm thinking of putting their 14 LED, 7 RB and 7 of the 10K, dimmable kit over my 14 gal fuge. I've been in contact with them...I'm considering the dimmable Meanwell drivers instead of the included Maxwellen drivers. Apparently they allow substitutions. Anyway, I have a question that I couldn't get answered from them: are the dimmable Maxwells controllable with the ReefKeeper lite 1-10v capable controller? And, would you be able to simulate sunrise and sunset with that setup? Thanks in advance!
If it's going over your fuge why not just use the 6500K LEDs and maybe mix in a few red LEDs? That would seem to be a better spectrum for growing macro algae than the RBs and 10K LEDs. Also, when I contacted them for my fuge light (29g fuge) they suggested their 12 LED kit with the Meanwell non-dim driver.


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Unread 01/04/2012, 04:33 PM   #271
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FishNFun View Post
If it's going over your fuge why not just use the 6500K LEDs and maybe mix in a few red LEDs? That would seem to be a better spectrum for growing macro algae than the RBs and 10K LEDs. Also, when I contacted them for my fuge light (29g fuge) they suggested their 12 LED kit with the Meanwell non-dim driver.
Hello FishNFun, I was thinking the same thing....but, I'm just venturing into LED and wanted to try this out to see if I like the output of the RBs and 10K combo for a possible build for my display. Not sure if I want to shell out the extra for the Meanwell drivers if it's not going to work.

Has anyone tried the ReefKeeper Lite with these LEDs and the Meanwell driver?


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Unread 01/04/2012, 05:36 PM   #272
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I ordered one of their 14LED kits with 2 dimmable ballast for my QT tank. The only complaint I had was that the pots(dimmers) were poor quality and would cause the LEDs to flicker, or go off as your turned the dial slowly. I tried to find a suitable replacement locally, but couldnt.

I ended up taking the pot apart and bending the contact spring a little to get them to perform better. still not perfect, but useable.


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Unread 01/04/2012, 06:37 PM   #273
00Warpig00
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Captain View Post
I'm thinking of putting their 14 LED, 7 RB and 7 of the 10K, dimmable kit over my 14 gal fuge. I've been in contact with them...I'm considering the dimmable Meanwell drivers instead of the included Maxwellen drivers. Apparently they allow substitutions. Anyway, I have a question that I couldn't get answered from them: are the dimmable Maxwells controllable with the ReefKeeper lite 1-10v capable controller? And, would you be able to simulate sunrise and sunset with that setup? Thanks in advance!
The meanwell Drivers will work with a 0-10V I believ the meanwell needs to be a D model not a P model unless you are doing PWM

The Maxwellen drivers at this point look like they are NOT controllable by a controller only potentiometer. My test thus far of applying various voltages <10V to the dim leads of a Maxwellen driver have not produced any fruitful results at this time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by zachts View Post
I've also been researching this subject but havn't found an answere yet.

As discused on page 10 of this thread, in theory it should work with the dim4 but someone needs to test the driver and find out.

Would anyone out there who is using Maxwellen driver and who owns a multimeter be willing to test the dim leads of thier driver. Just disconnect you potentiometer and measure the voltage between the wires when the driver is powered up. then power down, swicht you meter to measure currnt and measure the current being produced between the two wires. That should tell us all we need to know to determine how to set up the DIM4 to run this driver.

only other variable would be the that the two circuts need a common ground as you'd be caping off the + lead from the driver and not using the - lead from the DIM4. So as long as long as both circuts go to a common ground (ie, the wall outlet) then it should work "in theory".

if you don't have a DIM4 handy then a wall wort that outputs the appropriate current at a voltage somewhere between 1-10volts (assuming you measured 10volts with the multimeter) will give us the same answer as to whether this is doable.
I will probably play around with mine again at some point soon. I have done basic experiments that have me leaning strongly on the side of maxwellen drivers not working with a controller. I have worked in electronics professionally, although admittedly it was only for about 10 years and that was 15 years ago. (I was a Sony Certified 8mm camcorder repair technician) not saying I cant be wrong, but I'm not a complete idiot with electronics either. I made a living at it for 10 years. If someone else also wants to play with theirs and give their opinions and ideas and feedback great. Id love to get this dragon slayed! NOBODY wants the maxwellens to work with a controller more than I do, believe me. I haven't given up hope yet, but my first results don't inspire any confidence or have me hurrying back because I feel I'm close to a breakthrough.

Nick


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Unread 01/04/2012, 06:57 PM   #274
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You can make an arduino controller for them with a DPIC.

I do promise you guys, I'll bring my fluke 1587 home from work, hell even my scope and I'll find out exactly what the maxwellen drivers are doing :-P


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Unread 01/04/2012, 08:00 PM   #275
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that would be great! Dread240


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