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11/07/2006, 01:06 PM | #1 |
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Adding An Internal Overflow
I have a 90 gallon glass tank on which I'm currently using a CPR hang-on overflow. I am exploring the possibility of switching to an internal overflow. So, three questions:
1) Is there somewhere you can buy pre-made black acrylic overflows, either trapezoidal or square? 2) How is acrylic bonded to glass? I remember reading that silicone doesn't bond to acrylic. 3) In regards to drilling the glass tank, I read that you can't drill tempered glass. What are the chances that mine is tempered, and how can I find out? |
11/07/2006, 01:35 PM | #2 |
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1)dont know
2)i would forget an acrylic overflow and just have a local glass shop cut a few pieces of glass for you and then silicone them together. that is what i did and it was easy and is very solid. 3) if you are talking about drilling the bottom of the tank it is more than likely tempered. find out who manufactured and go from there. i made a horizontal overflow and drilled the back instead. normally the sides are not tempered. also the horizontal overflow takes up MUCH less room in your tank |
11/07/2006, 01:38 PM | #3 |
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How does a horizontal overflow work?
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11/07/2006, 01:59 PM | #4 |
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same way but the plumbing is just behind the tank instead of in a large overflow box that takes up tank space
http://www.wetwebmedia.com and then do a search on that website for horizontal overflow and you will find lots of info. there is also a thread on this website somewhere. |
11/07/2006, 02:06 PM | #5 |
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Here are a couple pics of mine. It's in a 30 Cube with two 1" drains.
Click the picture for a larger view.
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11/07/2006, 02:08 PM | #6 |
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For the purposes of overflows, acrylic bonds to glass via silicone just fine. You'll break the tank before you get the overflow out.
Just make sure the silicon is between the glass and the acrylic... dont just smear it along the corners.
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11/07/2006, 02:24 PM | #7 |
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PM me if you're interested in doing this... Here's one I did for someone else this week.
CAD Rendering Finished Box
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-February 2007 nTOTM "The problem with America is stupidity. Why don't we just take the safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself" Current Tank Info: ADA 60-P Last edited by calvin415; 11/07/2006 at 02:37 PM. |
11/07/2006, 03:27 PM | #8 |
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Great info. Thanks folks. I would ideally like to do a full-height overflow so that I can plumb through the bottom just to get the tank as close to the wall as possible. I'll have to see what I can find out about the tank (it was a hand-me-down) as to whether or not the bottom is tempered. If that's the case, I'm definitely going to go with a horizontal overflow.
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11/07/2006, 03:44 PM | #9 |
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The bottoms are often tempered. Sides, rarely.
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11/07/2006, 03:46 PM | #10 |
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if the tank is less than a few years old i'll bet anything the bottom is tempered.
here's one i made for my current tank. i like to make them a complete box with a backside so that you just pass the bulkhead through a hole in it to clamp itself to the glass rather than deal with silicone. trim the bulkhead length to fit and run it backwards. http://www.foresters-inc.com/mander/face.jpg http://www.foresters-inc.com/mander/profile.jpg http://www.foresters-inc.com/mander/3x3.jpg |
11/07/2006, 04:00 PM | #11 | |
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Quote:
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11/07/2006, 04:50 PM | #12 |
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75g - no sump Current Tank Info: 75g |
11/07/2006, 05:01 PM | #13 |
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11/07/2006, 05:21 PM | #14 |
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on my 120....
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11/07/2006, 06:14 PM | #15 | |
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Quote:
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11/07/2006, 07:14 PM | #16 |
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thanks, yeah it is i hope it works altight 4 me.
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11/08/2006, 10:05 AM | #17 | |
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Quote:
i'm personally not convinced the whole 'wide horizontal overflow' is worth the real estate or effort. theory is that it skims the dirtiest water (where the water surface acts like a pre-skimmer to aggregate junk), but i think that only matters in tanks with huge relative surface areas (like commercial grow-out trays) with low turnovers and undersized skimmers (again, commercial setups). anyway, if you surface skim at 1/2 the rate, that only just means that the water you are surface skimming is about twice as dirty, so it's really pretty much the same thing either way. for noise reduction, there's no need for down-elbows inside the box. just have the plumbing angle upwards outside the tank just a little before venting and dropping down to the sump. i have mine angle up at ~30 degrees then loop down, though i think you do need to use 1.5" plumbing to pull this off. a friend tried it with 1" and he said it couldn't keep up. with mine i can dump a bucket right in without regard, plus the return pump going and it keeps up no problem. no clue what he was trying to push through it though. huge waste of space making the box big enough for elbows and/or being able to install/remove the bulkheads with the flange on the inside. |
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11/08/2006, 11:22 AM | #18 | |
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11/08/2006, 01:34 PM | #19 |
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no, just a 90 degree elbow that is rotated on it's side a bit. then use a tee to vent and some sweep 90s and/or 45s to point down towards the sump. fiddle with the actual up angle so that the box stays mostly full of water, that way it doesn't suck any air, and water doesn't fall far into the box. i love 1.5" fittings, so many more choices over 1", and they move so much more water. plus if a snail ever does make it past your defenses into your plumbing it won't hurt anything, while just about any snail will restrict 1" enough to probably cause a flood.
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11/09/2006, 09:06 AM | #20 |
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manderx
Manderx, I need an overflow for a gravity fed refugium. I really like your concept. Do you have the bandwidth to make me one and what do you charge?
Thanks.
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Murray Current Tank Info: 65 gal. E. Quadricolor/A. Barberi system (VCV/inoculant); 60 gal. gorgonian/mixed scleratinian (VCV/ inoculant/solid polymers); 30 gal. Oxymonacanthus longirostris/octocoral system (VCV/inoculant); 80 gal Acropora (Zeovit); 27 gal. jellyfish system |
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