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09/11/2006, 05:43 AM | #721 |
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elfa
That sounds like it would work pretty well. |
09/11/2006, 06:46 AM | #722 |
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hmm
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09/11/2006, 06:52 AM | #723 |
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I think the prop would slice the silicone right off.
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09/11/2006, 08:43 AM | #724 |
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I think the silicone would be a temporary solution.
I used a carbon fiber tube for the cross brace then put two large drops of super glue on the back side (one on each end) to act as the stopper. It has worked great, doesn't take up any extra space, and the props are still in good shape after a couple of months. I stop and restart them a few times a week when I feed the corals. I recently had everything seize up due to calcium deposits - unrelated to the stoppers though.
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Mike On hiatus. I'm either out riding my bicycle, playing with my family, or throwing ferts in my planted tank. Or working. I hope I'm not doing that though. Current Tank Info: 140 DIY Cube |
09/11/2006, 09:35 AM | #725 |
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we are also trying to stop the noise . if you could end prop damage and noise then there is no reason not to use these on a wave maker : )
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09/11/2006, 09:43 AM | #726 |
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Snarkys thanks so much for the reply. So remove the red cap, insert a couple of these, and the 900 outta work? You said something about a slip washer between.
I am having difficulty picturing this for some reason...
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It's the return of Dr. Goodluck Himself. fml! Current Tank Info: 156G "brick", 150 sump and 75 fuge replaces Fire, Destruction, Sad :( |
09/11/2006, 09:44 AM | #727 |
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My cross brace doubles as a prop stopper. I made it from the SS rod. It forms a cross at the end of the pipe and also supports the center shaft. The prop hits it once and makes a single click sound if it starts wrong way and immediately corrects itself. The round smooth shape of the rod minimizes prop damage. I'll post some pictures of it tonight. It was difficult to make and you really need a drill press to get the holes in the right places.
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09/11/2006, 09:52 AM | #728 | |
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Quote:
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f9...s/DSCF0981.jpg |
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09/11/2006, 10:15 AM | #729 |
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Just modded th 1200 with a dumas 3004 and the flow is amazing. ie... sand storm. What prop would anyone recommend for the 1200 that would have a little less flow. Othewise I may need to reaquascape to control it. THis is on a 90gal with about 2 inches of sand. I plan on having mostly lps and softies with some sps's.
Thanks. |
09/11/2006, 10:20 AM | #730 |
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hmmm
i have coarse sand but i have two on my 90 and never had that issue . could try aiming them up slightly or changing to a octura 1435 prop |
09/11/2006, 10:27 AM | #731 |
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I had that problem on my 150 with just one! Sandstorm! Course, I've mounted them on swirls and the storm hits when pointed toward the front. 1435 is what I use.
Thanks snarkys for drawing me a map. The pic is just the washers and the cap. The idiot-proof description is nice! Thanks! It makes the 900 run. Does it quiet down the 1200???
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It's the return of Dr. Goodluck Himself. fml! Current Tank Info: 156G "brick", 150 sump and 75 fuge replaces Fire, Destruction, Sad :( |
09/11/2006, 10:39 AM | #732 |
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i don't know . all the ones i have now run silent . you have to press your ear to the glass to hear that they are on.
I "personally believe" the key to the noise is in having the shaft and tube fit as perfect as possible without adding any extra friction. My personal choice is to use the stainless steel rod and drive around to all the petcos to look for a piece of rigid airline that fits perfect. save that bugger because one $2 3' piece will make at least ten of these. you may have to go to several petcos though. I've been wrong before but i think 100% of the noise is the vibration between the shaft and the tube . The further the distance the tube has to travel as it bounces back and forth on the shaft the louder the noise is going to be. so if the tube is almost exactly the same size as the rod it wont have as far to travel and therefor will make less noise. I think this is also where proper centering and balancing also comes into play. the more off center and unbalanced it is the higher the tendency will be vibrate more violently on the shaft as it tries to find it's proper center. while centering the shaft has become a no brainier I don't think we will ever be able to balance them. So in my eyes the best way to deal with the vibration is to make the two pieces fit as well as possible so the tube doesn't have very far to travel back and forth as it vibrates and will result in less noise. The material choice may have an impact also . Carbon fiber make make more noise from vibration than stainless steel rod or plastic tube or carbon fiber on carbon fiber may make less noise. i don't know whats true , i just know i have had tremendous luck with the plastic tube and stainless steel rod as long as i take the time to find good fitting pieces: ) I know some people on this thread have said proper centering and balancing are not important but that really defies all scientific logic and is based off faulty logic where like things where they took off the shroud and it ran without noise. There is a big difference between pinning something down off center and unbalanced and letting it run freely where the rod inside really isn't doing much. I've also heard the noise blamed on the prop but i don't think that's true either because I have so many that never make any noise at all so i find it hard to believe the prop spinning is the cause of the noise. *EDIT* this may very well be the noise when i put my ear the the glass. Really i have no proof on any of this, it's just my best guess. it's possible that the washer could help with noise but i'm not sure how. Last edited by Snarkys; 09/11/2006 at 11:11 AM. |
09/11/2006, 11:08 AM | #733 |
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I just happen to have found a couple rubber bolts in the workshop yesterday. I'll try at some point this week and let you guys know if and how well they worked.
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09/11/2006, 11:46 AM | #734 |
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well i just took a piece of the soft airline , cut it down the middle and wrapped it around the acrylic rod I'm using as a stopper and it didn't help the click noise at all. i cant imagine that there would be any noise between the plastic prop and that soft airline so the click must come from something else. guess i will play with a bit more later.
I'm just guessing but the click might be from the impeller sliding up and down as it hits the centering bar or the red and black cap . |
09/11/2006, 12:03 PM | #735 |
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Well the acrylic rod although buffered by the soft airline tubing is still pretty rigid and does not give at all when the prop hits it. This is where I think the rubber bolts will help more as they are more pliable and will give a bit.
There is a small click noise that can be heard from the stock MJ from the motor starting and kick start the magnet, this I don;t think we can do anything about unless someone can come up with a soft start solution for the MJ motor. This click though is so low that you can barely notice it if at all especially against other tank equipment noises. D. |
09/11/2006, 12:19 PM | #736 |
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Maybe I need to just get a little more creative in placement. Its already on one end and blowing across the entire tank. I may just need to add some rock work on the other end. Its blown so much that I can see the glass on the bottom.
Also its a new tank so the sand hasen't had a chance to build any type of bacterial film. |
09/11/2006, 12:34 PM | #737 | |
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09/11/2006, 12:41 PM | #738 |
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what propeller are you using? For a softie and LPS only tank, maybe you should downgrade the prop to something a bit smaller?
D. |
09/11/2006, 01:35 PM | #739 |
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I'm using the Dumas 3004 that came from mjmods maxijet 1200 kit. What prop do you recommend and where can I get it?
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09/11/2006, 01:40 PM | #740 |
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i also have a octura 1240 prop on hand. Would that increase or decrease flow?
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