Reef Central Online Community

Go Back   Reef Central Online Community > General Interest Forums > Do It Yourself
Blogs FAQ Calendar

Notices

User Tag List

Reply
Thread Tools
Unread 08/22/2016, 03:55 PM   #51
Subsea
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Austin, Tx
Posts: 1,882
Quote:
Originally Posted by djbon View Post
Any carbon source or commercial bacteria food will do the job. With cost in mind, vodka will do the job without punching a hole on my wallet.

Don't use Tito's, it is handmade in Austin.


__________________
Laissez les bons temps rouler,
Patrick Castille

Current Tank Info: 10,000G. Greenhouse Macro Growout
Subsea is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/22/2016, 06:00 PM   #52
djbon
Registered Member
 
djbon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, MY
Posts: 813
Quote:
Originally Posted by Subsea View Post
Don't use Tito's, it is handmade in Austin.
Better drink it for ourselves, let the bacteria enjoy the cheap one. Spoilt bacteria is bad bacteria


__________________
75 gallon DT, 5 gallon sump, DIY LED bar with moonlight, DIY Arduino controller

Current Tank Info: 75 gallon/Arduino Controller
djbon is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/22/2016, 06:08 PM   #53
dartier
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Brampton, ON, Canada
Posts: 958
Quote:
Originally Posted by jml1149 View Post
Instead of using straight Vodka, why not try something like Red Sea's NoPox?
... or the DIY NOPOX from the thread on here. Much cheaper than the name brand.

Quote:
Originally Posted by djbon View Post
About lights, I do feel total darkness is another key contribution to my success. Let somebody with the knowledge to chime in
The bacteria do not care if it is dark or light. However, keeping it dark will keep the cyano from growing inside your filter. So dark is better in this regard.

Dennis


__________________
560G Miracles tank in process
making a DIY DyMiCo style filter (for 560G)

Current Tank Info: 560G Miracles tank in progress, 80Frag Temporary
dartier is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/22/2016, 06:11 PM   #54
djbon
Registered Member
 
djbon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, MY
Posts: 813
Quote:
Originally Posted by dartier View Post
The bacteria do not care if it is dark or light. However, keeping it dark will keep the cyano from growing inside your filter. So dark is better in this regard.

Dennis
.


__________________
75 gallon DT, 5 gallon sump, DIY LED bar with moonlight, DIY Arduino controller

Current Tank Info: 75 gallon/Arduino Controller
djbon is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/22/2016, 09:52 PM   #55
gregkn73
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 278
Quote:
Originally Posted by djbon View Post
Greg, post #42 your flow is 150 liter per hour . Currently my effluent output is 2 ml/second or 7.2liter per hour. Such low flow will give the bacteria enough time to consume nutrients from the water. About lights, I do feel total darkness is another key contribution to my success. Let somebody with the knowledge to chime in
I was sure some where ,I was wrong :-)

Quote:
Originally Posted by dartier View Post
... or the DIY NOPOX from the thread on here. Much cheaper than the name brand.



The bacteria do not care if it is dark or light. However, keeping it dark will keep the cyano from growing inside your filter. So dark is better in this regard.

Dennis
As I can see inside my reactor, the first layers of pumice, I don't have any cyano, just some diatoms at the beginning, but not now. Never the less, I have some spare black acrylic, so I can try to limit the light.

So I will reduce the flow, limit as I can the light and I will probably try diy nopox. Thanks both of you.


gregkn73 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/22/2016, 10:11 PM   #56
djbon
Registered Member
 
djbon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, MY
Posts: 813
Hi Greg,

Is your chamber completely sealed?. If water flow from below, and open ended on top will exposed the top layer pumice with air.


__________________
75 gallon DT, 5 gallon sump, DIY LED bar with moonlight, DIY Arduino controller

Current Tank Info: 75 gallon/Arduino Controller
djbon is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/22/2016, 10:15 PM   #57
djbon
Registered Member
 
djbon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, MY
Posts: 813
Another good reading about light and nitrate processing factors by certain bacteria.

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC106331/


__________________
75 gallon DT, 5 gallon sump, DIY LED bar with moonlight, DIY Arduino controller

Current Tank Info: 75 gallon/Arduino Controller
djbon is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/23/2016, 03:21 AM   #58
gregkn73
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 278
Quote:
Originally Posted by djbon View Post
Hi Greg,

Is your chamber completely sealed?. If water flow from below, and open ended on top will exposed the top layer pumice with air.
It is an open top reactor. I never thought that oxygen diffusion ,contribute such a big proportion at total oxygen in the water!…... I am now thinking to just make your design and take out my diy reactor :-)


gregkn73 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/23/2016, 03:24 AM   #59
dartier
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Brampton, ON, Canada
Posts: 958
Quote:
Originally Posted by djbon View Post
Another good reading about light and nitrate processing factors by certain bacteria.

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC106331/
That is interesting. So it would appear that light can slow down the conversion to nitrite for the bacteria used in this study. I am wondering if this photo inhibition applies to all the bacterial strains or just the ones they used.

Dennis


__________________
560G Miracles tank in process
making a DIY DyMiCo style filter (for 560G)

Current Tank Info: 560G Miracles tank in progress, 80Frag Temporary
dartier is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/23/2016, 07:02 AM   #60
djbon
Registered Member
 
djbon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, MY
Posts: 813
Quote:
Originally Posted by gregkn73 View Post
It is an open top reactor. I never thought that oxygen diffusion ,contribute such a big proportion at total oxygen in the water!…... I am now thinking to just make your design and take out my diy reactor :-)
Looking forward to your reactor build and results. I am eager to know whether my design works for others as well.


__________________
75 gallon DT, 5 gallon sump, DIY LED bar with moonlight, DIY Arduino controller

Current Tank Info: 75 gallon/Arduino Controller
djbon is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/23/2016, 07:15 AM   #61
djbon
Registered Member
 
djbon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, MY
Posts: 813
Quote:
Originally Posted by dartier View Post
That is interesting. So it would appear that light can slow down the conversion to nitrite for the bacteria used in this study. I am wondering if this photo inhibition applies to all the bacterial strains or just the ones they used.

Dennis
Nitrogen bubbles was clearly visible when it exits via the effluent tube after 5 days in operation. I didn't expect to see any results that fast, as the rings and bio balls are fresh from LFS. The combination of carbon & bacteria dosing in total darkness must have contributed to my success.


__________________
75 gallon DT, 5 gallon sump, DIY LED bar with moonlight, DIY Arduino controller

Current Tank Info: 75 gallon/Arduino Controller
djbon is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/23/2016, 07:30 AM   #62
gregkn73
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 278
Quote:
Originally Posted by djbon View Post
Another good reading about light and nitrate processing factors by certain bacteria.

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC106331/
Quote:
Originally Posted by dartier View Post
That is interesting. So it would appear that light can slow down the conversion to nitrite for the bacteria used in this study. I am wondering if this photo inhibition applies to all the bacterial strains or just the ones they used.

Dennis
To understand it , because my English are not so good.....
In the article I read" at low light intensities, nitrite accumulated as a result of light inhibition of nitrite but not of nitrate reduction rates.*"

It is meaning that the denitrification

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denitrification

NO3−*→*NO2−*→ NO +*N2O*→*N2*(g)


Stops at NO2? So instead of N2, we just achieve more NO2?


gregkn73 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/23/2016, 07:44 AM   #63
gregkn73
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 278
Quote:
Originally Posted by djbon View Post
Looking forward to your reactor build and results. I am eager to know whether my design works for others as well.
I will try first to reduce the flow in my reactor, as much I can, and measure the outlet water for NO3. If I won't see any reduction, compared to the DT values, I will try yours.
So can you post some pictures of your actual denitrator. I would like to see how you make the inlets and outlets of water . Are they totally sealed? Also how did you connect the 2 tubes? I made all the PVC piping of my reef, but I am not an expert, and can not understand how did you connect the 2 tubes with the smaller PVC tube.

And some more questions for operation of it. Why did you have the outlet ,running in a sock? Do you run prefilter water in your denitrator? Did the materials in the first nitrification tube, needed any cleaning already? Do you run it inside your sump or outside? Did it ever clogged?

Sorry for the many questions Donovan, but I am really interested for your denitrator and considering to make it very soon :-) Thanks in advance.


gregkn73 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/23/2016, 08:04 AM   #64
djbon
Registered Member
 
djbon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, MY
Posts: 813
Quote:
Originally Posted by gregkn73 View Post
I will try first to reduce the flow in my reactor, as much I can, and measure the outlet water for NO3. If I won't see any reduction, compared to the DT values, I will try yours.
So can you post some pictures of your actual denitrator. I would like to see how you make the inlets and outlets of water . Are they totally sealed? Also how did you connect the 2 tubes? I made all the PVC piping of my reef, but I am not an expert, and can not understand how did you connect the 2 tubes with the smaller PVC tube.

And some more questions for operation of it. Why did you have the outlet ,running in a sock? Do you run prefilter water in your denitrator? Did the materials in the first nitrification tube, needed any cleaning already? Do you run it inside your sump or outside? Did it ever clogged?

Sorry for the many questions Donovan, but I am really interested for your denitrator and considering to make it very soon :-) Thanks in advance.

You can see the clear tubing inlet/outlet in the video i shared. Look at 1st page.

Q1 - effluent output is on filter socks mainly to reduce salt creep. Secondly, to catch bacteria bloom. Socks was covered with slime, a lot!.

Q2 - yes, the water going to the reactor must be filtered to minimize clogging.

Q3 - reactor has been running for more than 6 months and never being cleaned. Output flow is very consistent. No problem so far.

Q4 - reactor is sitting inside the sump. You can run it externally if sealed properly.

Q5 - no clogging so far.

Interconnecting the chamber via 3/4 bulkhead on both side, cut a short 3/4" pvc pipe to bridge both reactor.


__________________
75 gallon DT, 5 gallon sump, DIY LED bar with moonlight, DIY Arduino controller

Current Tank Info: 75 gallon/Arduino Controller
djbon is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/23/2016, 09:30 AM   #65
gregkn73
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 278
Quote:
Originally Posted by djbon View Post
You can see the clear tubing inlet/outlet in the video i shared. Look at 1st page.

Q1 - effluent output is on filter socks mainly to reduce salt creep. Secondly, to catch bacteria bloom. Socks was covered with slime, a lot!.

Q2 - yes, the water going to the reactor must be filtered to minimize clogging.

Q3 - reactor has been running for more than 6 months and never being cleaned. Output flow is very consistent. No problem so far.

Q4 - reactor is sitting inside the sump. You can run it externally if sealed properly.

Q5 - no clogging so far.

Interconnecting the chamber via 3/4 bulkhead on both side, cut a short 3/4" pvc pipe to bridge both reactor.
Thanks again for your quick answers, but unfortunately in your video, I can only see the effluent flow, not the actuall connections of your clear tubing with the PVC chambers and how they are sealed. A pic will help me a lot.


gregkn73 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/23/2016, 09:56 AM   #66
djbon
Registered Member
 
djbon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, MY
Posts: 813
Most of my diy equipment is left over item in my garage. I improvise most of them to suite my philosophy of "cheap but functioning", so do not laugh i.

I found a blue plastic tube that fits snugly with the clear tubing. I used it as a union connector so that I can remove the fountain pump for cleaning.


Attached Images
File Type: jpg resized(1)(58).jpg (31.9 KB, 183 views)
__________________
75 gallon DT, 5 gallon sump, DIY LED bar with moonlight, DIY Arduino controller

Current Tank Info: 75 gallon/Arduino Controller
djbon is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/23/2016, 10:03 AM   #67
djbon
Registered Member
 
djbon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, MY
Posts: 813
Using the same blue tubing, I drilled the input & output hole to fit the blue tubing tightly. Cut the blue tube roughly 1.5", fit into the holes. Cut clear tubing 2" and connect to blue tube inside the chambers. Cut another clear tubing to proper length and connect to the other end of blue tubing externally. Push both clear tubing so that both meets up with reactor chamber for a nice fitting. Inlet and outlet are now ready


Attached Images
File Type: jpg resized(1)(59).jpg (17.7 KB, 165 views)
__________________
75 gallon DT, 5 gallon sump, DIY LED bar with moonlight, DIY Arduino controller

Current Tank Info: 75 gallon/Arduino Controller
djbon is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/23/2016, 10:13 AM   #68
djbon
Registered Member
 
djbon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, MY
Posts: 813
To control the inlet flow, cut a piece of galvanized iron rod, bend it over in the middle all the way so that both side meets each other. Pull back a little bit to form roughly 5 degree angle. Works perfectly and cost me nothing


Attached Images
File Type: jpg resized(1)(57).jpg (26.1 KB, 181 views)
__________________
75 gallon DT, 5 gallon sump, DIY LED bar with moonlight, DIY Arduino controller

Current Tank Info: 75 gallon/Arduino Controller
djbon is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/23/2016, 02:37 PM   #69
gregkn73
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 278
in any diy project I always try to use everything I can find in my basement and then go buy, what I don't have. But in a magical way, always increasing the " stock " I have, instead of decreasing :-)

Since I have a limited height of 60cm in my sump ,what do you thing of the following drawing. Don't laugh , I know how bad it is :-)


If you can increase something, will it be the length or width of your double chamber denitrator?


gregkn73 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/23/2016, 03:37 PM   #70
djbon
Registered Member
 
djbon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, MY
Posts: 813
Looks fine to me but filling the chamber will be a challenge. With 60cm in height, I will use 90 degree elbow, create a "U" shaped chamber with combine length 130cm. If I have to rebuild mine, I will use this design as well. Still, in/out tubing must be in a different level.


__________________
75 gallon DT, 5 gallon sump, DIY LED bar with moonlight, DIY Arduino controller

Current Tank Info: 75 gallon/Arduino Controller
djbon is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/23/2016, 07:44 PM   #71
djbon
Registered Member
 
djbon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, MY
Posts: 813
"U" shaped version


Attached Images
File Type: jpg Nitrate Destroyer U.jpg (45.9 KB, 241 views)
__________________
75 gallon DT, 5 gallon sump, DIY LED bar with moonlight, DIY Arduino controller

Current Tank Info: 75 gallon/Arduino Controller
djbon is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/24/2016, 08:13 AM   #72
gregkn73
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 278
Quote:
Originally Posted by djbon View Post
Looks fine to me but filling the chamber will be a challenge. With 60cm in height, I will use 90 degree elbow, create a "U" shaped chamber with combine length 130cm. If I have to rebuild mine, I will use this design as well. Still, in/out tubing must be in a different level.
In my drawing all the 4 chambers will have end cups at the top, the 2 in the middle , by using 2 of those



Why do you thing will be a challenge ,filling them? I am thinking using the 2 firsts ,for aerobic nitrification with bio rigs and other 2 ,filled with pumice for anaerobic denitrification. With 4 chambers, I am also thinking to add carbon, at the 3rd chamber, so only enhancing the anaerobic bacteria populations in pumice and avoiding bacteria slime at the 2 firsts chambers with bio rigs. My reef is 650lt net,so I think it is a good idea , to increase the total volume of your denitrator, from about 5,5 lt to 11lt by increasing the length , from 130cm to nearly 260cm,the water is moving in. What do you thing Donovan?

PS what programme do you use ,for those beautiful drawings?



Last edited by gregkn73; 08/24/2016 at 08:30 AM.
gregkn73 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/24/2016, 09:27 AM   #73
djbon
Registered Member
 
djbon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, MY
Posts: 813
Your design is okay. My suggestion is to make sure the middle chambers to be much lower than outlet level, probably an inch lower at the top point where the bridge is. This will ensure all media are covered in water all the time (gas buildup trap). I'm not sure why you wanted to add carbon?. You might need to tweak your flow rate a bit higher. Longer chambers is not necessary good, when carbon and nutrient are absent, if bacteria does exist at the farthest area, a different activity might take place. Just imagine when flow stops, after all nutrient has been used up, hydrogen sulfide is produced. But higher flow should eliminate this possibility.


__________________
75 gallon DT, 5 gallon sump, DIY LED bar with moonlight, DIY Arduino controller

Current Tank Info: 75 gallon/Arduino Controller
djbon is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/24/2016, 09:32 AM   #74
djbon
Registered Member
 
djbon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, MY
Posts: 813
The challenge i'm talking about is weight. With all media in it, weight might be a problem especially to manuever the denitrator into place.


__________________
75 gallon DT, 5 gallon sump, DIY LED bar with moonlight, DIY Arduino controller

Current Tank Info: 75 gallon/Arduino Controller
djbon is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/24/2016, 01:10 PM   #75
gregkn73
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 278
Quote:
Originally Posted by djbon View Post
Hi Greg,
The addition of vodka is simply to feed those bacteria, without carbon dosing the process is too slow.


Quote:
Originally Posted by djbon View Post
Carbon dosing is essential in my design.


Quote:
Originally Posted by djbon View Post
. I'm not sure why you wanted to add carbon?. You might need to tweak your flow rate a bit higher. Longer chambers is not necessary good, when carbon and nutrient are absent, if bacteria does exist at the farthest area, a different activity might take place. Just imagine when flow stops, after all nutrient has been used up, hydrogen sulfide is produced. But higher flow should eliminate this possibility.
I wanted to add carbon because of yours 2 first comment's. Isn't it essential for speeding the denitrification?

I wanted longer chambers exactly for the reason you described....to process higher volume of water, by higher flow through the media.


gregkn73 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:54 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2024 Axivo Inc.
Use of this web site is subject to the terms and conditions described in the user agreement.
Reef CentralTM Reef Central, LLC. Copyright ©1999-2022
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.