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Unread 02/23/2017, 09:50 AM   #9351
jason2459
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Floyd R Turbo View Post
The issue with K test kits is that they are specifically not very accurate, but relatively, consistent. What that means is that while you can see the difference from one reading to the next, and this is pretty decent, the actual reading number is rather inaccurate. At least that is what I've been told. Also the test kits are usually very difficult to use, esp the ones where you drip until you can't see the black dot under the vial - very subjective.

The Salifert one is the only one I use, thankfully it's available again. That one has a drastic color change.
Yep, accuracy is not their strong suite. Why Salifert has not come out yet even after all these years with a profi version which would provide higher resolution. They have said here and there that a profi version is in the works but has yet to materialize. A Triton test would provide another fairly reliable way to test for K.


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Unread 02/23/2017, 09:50 AM   #9352
jrp1588
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Floyd R Turbo View Post
The issue with K test kits is that they are specifically not very accurate, but relatively, consistent. What that means is that while you can see the difference from one reading to the next, and this is pretty decent, the actual reading number is rather inaccurate. At least that is what I've been told. Also the test kits are usually very difficult to use, esp the ones where you drip until you can't see the black dot under the vial - very subjective.

The Salifert one is the only one I use, thankfully it's available again. That one has a drastic color change.
Well that's encouraging. Hopefully my levels are lower than the test is reading. My kit is Salifert. I found it about as easy to use as anything else in their line of test kits. I added 40g of potassium supplement dissolved in RO overnight in my doser. Should be enough to bring it from the measured 360 to 400 in my 125gal.

If my montis are still looking a bit shabby in a week or so, maybe I'll bring it up enough 50ppm.


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Unread 02/23/2017, 09:55 AM   #9353
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Keep in mind K is a major ion so bumping up K will increase salinity. Many things need K like bacteria and probably take up the most of it.


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Unread 02/23/2017, 09:58 AM   #9354
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I think you'll find that keeping it at 400 might be a bit tricky, that's what my experience is - it seems to drop fast from 400 and then the drop rate levels out, so you can run a long time w/o dosing and not drop below 300. That's why I recommended the potassium-based water softener salt. You can mix up 5g of supersaturated mix for a few bucks, but you have to drip through dry GFO as mentioned - I don't know if that's for phosphate as much as it is for silicates and other minor impurities


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Unread 02/23/2017, 10:05 AM   #9355
jrp1588
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Floyd R Turbo View Post
I think you'll find that keeping it at 400 might be a bit tricky, that's what my experience is - it seems to drop fast from 400 and then the drop rate levels out, so you can run a long time w/o dosing and not drop below 300. That's why I recommended the potassium-based water softener salt. You can mix up 5g of supersaturated mix for a few bucks, but you have to drip through dry GFO as mentioned - I don't know if that's for phosphate as much as it is for silicates and other minor impurities
I'll experiment with the Brightwell stuff I've got, and see if things look better. If it turns out my consumption is high, I'll look into the water softener salt. For now, the simplicity of mixing and adding without an extra step is worth it.


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Unread 02/26/2017, 09:36 AM   #9356
Scuba_Steve
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2 questions.

What is a good distance between the acrylic walls of the ATS to the screen? I imagine too close and I will never keep the algae and salt off the walls. My screen will be 4"x3" btw.

Does anyone see any problems with a T coming off my return to feed my ATS? My return pump is quite a bit oversized for my system. I do not want to feed it off a drain btw.


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Unread 02/26/2017, 06:06 PM   #9357
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If the walls are opaque, 2" should be good. If a clear light cover, then 1.5 to 2"

A T from the return is fine, with a valve.


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Unread 02/26/2017, 08:54 PM   #9358
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Here is the build so far! Hopefully it works out well.






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Unread 03/03/2017, 04:31 PM   #9359
DEadsCSU
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What would you all recommend for algae control in a 150 gallon tank: a few fish that eat algae well or an algae scrubber?


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Unread 03/05/2017, 10:42 PM   #9360
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Even if the fish eat, the nutrients (especially ammonia/urea) need to be exported.


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Unread 03/05/2017, 11:15 PM   #9361
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Quote:
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Even if the fish eat, the nutrients (especially ammonia/urea) need to be exported.


So you'd recommend an algae scrubber I assume.


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Unread 03/05/2017, 11:45 PM   #9362
jweist
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Not necessarily. He's saying that herbivores are not a form of filtration.

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Unread 03/06/2017, 12:36 AM   #9363
karimwassef
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well... it's possible to create a recycling loop where the fish eat the algae and their waste becomes food for coral, pods, and algae.. etc.. etc..


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Unread 03/06/2017, 08:18 AM   #9364
jrp1588
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Well I'm beginning to think potassium isn't my issue with lightening montis. After bringing my levels up to 400, they held steady at 400 for a whole week. In fact, my freshly made salt mix tested at 340, while my tank's base potassium level seems to be 360. I guess it's getting some from the food.

I've let my nitrate test kit expire, and never bought a phosphate kit. I've got both on order, so we'll see what those say.


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Unread 03/06/2017, 10:27 PM   #9365
jweist
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrp1588 View Post
Well I'm beginning to think potassium isn't my issue with lightening montis. After bringing my levels up to 400, they held steady at 400 for a whole week. In fact, my freshly made salt mix tested at 340, while my tank's base potassium level seems to be 360. I guess it's getting some from the food.

I've let my nitrate test kit expire, and never bought a phosphate kit. I've got both on order, so we'll see what those say.


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Unread 03/08/2017, 09:32 PM   #9366
br88dy
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This is a picture of my scrubber after a month of being in use. This picture was taken a week ago and it actually has a ton of orange stuff on it now as well. I'm assuming my brand new tank's diatom bloom is happening on my scrubber. I understand that oily algae means high nutrients, but I'm not sure how to move forward.

-I have 1 tang and feed it a little less than a cube per day (I feed this much because I'd like to keep feeding about a cube a day when I add other fish)
-75 GPH flow over the screen, but will soon be lowered to 50.
-3 660nm RapidLED's for 14 hours a day. I've tried changing the photo period to see if I could get anything green, but not much has changed. The orange/black stuff seems to grow quickest at 18 hours a day.
-Nitrates are at 10ppm and slowly climb.

Do I wait it out? I'm removing the oily algae every 2 days to keep it off my screen. Do I remove the diatoms as well? They've pretty much encrusted all the holes on the screen.

 photo 1be4ac3c-89f5-4d27-9d45-59282782ff74.jpg


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Unread 03/09/2017, 07:55 PM   #9367
SantaMonica
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Needs much more light on both sides.


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Unread 03/09/2017, 08:04 PM   #9368
karimwassef
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ok.. finally finished publishing my DIY light wall (600W) over my ATS tank

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2627991

(see? this time I didn't hijack the thread)


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Unread 03/10/2017, 01:32 AM   #9369
br88dy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SantaMonica View Post
Needs much more light on both sides.
Well this is an AIO tank so the screen hangs where the water overflows into the sump section of the tank, so it's single-sided.

Just FYI, this really is the only place I can get "Algae Scrubber Basics" answers to my basic questions. I really do appreciate the insight that is given to me. I'm at the tail end of a new tank build and the cornerstone of the filtration is an ATS.

I've been following this thread for about 18 months and it's easy to see how the advice from SantaMonica and Floyd R Turbo can guarantee a successful ATS. A couple months ago I started a new 40 breeder build and I trust their advice so much that I don't ever plan on needing a skimmer or GFO or even carbon! I've seen the power of algae via these two gentleman and, again, I really do appreciate the effort you guys make to even reply my posts.

SantaMonica: I'll add another LED with the same photo period and see how the algae responds. Thanks again.


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Unread 03/13/2017, 01:26 PM   #9370
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having a sipper hard time keeping my air bubbles holes clean on my upflow ATS anyone have pointers?
at thins point I am thinking of moving to a water fall ATS. but I do like how slim the out of the way the upflow is. but it have not produced much in the last few months. when it works it's great but its not really working the last few months

thinking of using a 2.5 glass tank for a waterfall ATS build. or go acrylic.
question would 1/8" be to thin for acrylic?
any tip or tricks to drill it?

thanks guys!


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Unread 03/13/2017, 09:07 PM   #9371
SantaMonica
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What is the bubbler?


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Unread 03/13/2017, 11:56 PM   #9372
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This is a huge post. Somewhere way back in the thread I read a response that said something like... Your screen is 9x6 = 54 sq in. If you're lighting both sides, that's a 4.5 cube/day scrubber. So does that mean my scrubber/screen size should be based on my feeding amount does tank size not come into play at all? I am in the process of building a waterfall scrubber that will fall down into the filter sock area 7 inches wide (removing the sock) for a 105 gallon tank. I have 16 inches of down flow space available. My largest screen size could be just under 7 inches by 16 inches. Just wondering where I should start my screen size at. I feed small dry food pellets once a day and twice a week I feed one frozen cube along with reef assorted reef food like chili powder etc..


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Unread 03/14/2017, 08:14 AM   #9373
br88dy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crabbydan View Post
This is a huge post. Somewhere way back in the thread I read a response that said something like... Your screen is 9x6 = 54 sq in. If you're lighting both sides, that's a 4.5 cube/day scrubber. So does that mean my scrubber/screen size should be based on my feeding amount does tank size not come into play at all? I am in the process of building a waterfall scrubber that will fall down into the filter sock area 7 inches wide (removing the sock) for a 105 gallon tank. I have 16 inches of down flow space available. My largest screen size could be just under 7 inches by 16 inches. Just wondering where I should start my screen size at. I feed small dry food pellets once a day and twice a week I feed one frozen cube along with reef assorted reef food like chili powder etc..
Yes, the screen size is not dependent on water volume anymore.
http://algaescrubber.zohosites.com/p...-scrubber.html


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Unread 03/14/2017, 12:58 PM   #9374
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Thank you!


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Unread 03/14/2017, 08:42 PM   #9375
SantaMonica
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Just base it on the most you would feed. Plus each 50 pounds of phosphate soaked rock adds 1 cube.


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