Green to brown algae on glass

Clancaster23 · 05/02/2011, 04:52 PM

I have had my 75 gallon set up and running for about five months now. Within the last month or so I would get a film of green algae on the glass daily. Within the last week or two the green algae has turned to brown. I could scrape the glass off two times a day if I wanted to to keep it clear, that's how fast it grows. I don't have strong lights, only a 216 watt T5. I am using distilled water as I haven't gotten a RO/DI system yet. Is the tank just going through a phase which I have read happens to new tanks or is there something I can do to stop the algae grwoing on the glass?

critofer · 05/02/2011, 05:20 PM

It might be because Your using distilled water, I use tap water (well we have a Rainsoft water system) but I just use water from my sink. I get brown and green algae like that to!

Also Your lights could be going bad.

Try getting turbo snails or zebra snails to clean your glass.

Hope this helps.

Critofer

bhigh · 05/02/2011, 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clancaster23

I have had my 75 gallon set up and running for about five months now. Within the last month or so I would get a film of green algae on the glass daily. Within the last week or two the green algae has turned to brown. I could scrape the glass off two times a day if I wanted to to keep it clear, that's how fast it grows. I don't have strong lights, only a 216 watt T5. I am using distilled water as I haven't gotten a RO/DI system yet. Is the tank just going through a phase which I have read happens to new tanks or is there something I can do to stop the algae grwoing on the glass?

Buy Revers Osmosis water from walmart, not distilled. Add a UV sterilizer and it will fix your problem.

Clancaster23 · 05/02/2011, 08:59 PM

I have used the wal-mart water. I was told it isn't good enough for a saltwater system and that distilled would be better. I actually have been using the wal-mart (Culligan) water up til now. I will be looking into UV's. Just added three more turbos in yesterday (five total) and had 10 nerites. You can see that they do occasionally get the glass but can definitely be better.

hollister · 05/02/2011, 09:23 PM

Whats used for water movement and do you do water changes?

Clancaster23 · 05/02/2011, 09:34 PM

Two Koralia 1050's. I do water changes though not as often as most due to the fact that I have to go get the water when I do. I probably do a 10 gallon change (not top-off) every three weeks or so.

disc1 · 05/02/2011, 10:16 PM

An RODI unit for 150 bucks, little more, little less. Saves you so much trouble.

Turn your lights off and don't turn them on again for three days. When you turn them back on, I bet the dust algae is gone.

mapleredta · 05/03/2011, 08:54 AM

How about direct sun light?

Clancaster23 · 05/03/2011, 09:29 AM

Aside from light that comes in the room from a small sliding window and the small window that is in the door, it gets no other light. There is another sliding window next to the tank but it's covered up for this exact reason. The only time I would get any direct light from the sun shining directly on the tank would be early morning with an angle through the window in the door and it's rained so much for the last month, I doubt this has happened very many times at all.

Clancaster23 · 05/03/2011, 12:09 PM

Tested water and everything is good. Zeros in ammonia, nitrates and nitrites. Ph is 8.2. 1.025 Salinity and phosphate zero, calcium is 440 and Kh is 143.2.

disc1 · 05/03/2011, 12:44 PM

That little sunlight isn't your problem, but you should block it while doing a lights out period. The algae you are seeing is a normal phase for a newish tank to go through.

Clancaster23 · 05/03/2011, 01:54 PM

If I was to do a lights out period, should I still clean the algae off every day or just let it go?

mapleredta · 05/03/2011, 02:39 PM

You could always run a GFO/Carbon reactor.

disc1 · 05/03/2011, 03:15 PM

You shouldn't have to clean the glass at all. Just unplug the lights and don't turn them on even for a minute for three days. Some people will even wrap a sheet around the tank to keep ambient light out, but I didn't go that far. On the fourth day, do a reduced light cycle and then go back to normal. When the lights come back on the fourth day, the glass will look clear. If the algae comes back, wait about a month and do it again and start thinking about nutrient removal via GFO / carbon / macro / whatever.

This trick works with other algae to varying degrees, but it is especially effective against the green / brown dusty stuff that you are dealing with.

disc1 · 05/03/2011, 03:17 PM

I would make sure to block the sunlight from getting to it too for the three dark days.

Clancaster23 · 05/04/2011, 03:31 PM

I'm going to give the dark period a try but this will not have any ill effect on the corals in there will it? I have zoas, a hammer, frogspawn and a mushroom in there. Also, should I drop a little food in there for the fish or should they be ok for the time being?

disc1 · 05/04/2011, 05:24 PM

Your corals will be fine for three days. Just tell them that a big storm blew in and the clouds are covering the sun. You can feed the fish if they are out and about. Some fish won't really eat in the dark, but they won't starve to death in three days.

tkeracer619 · 05/04/2011, 11:51 PM

Post a photo for an ID.

Nutrients are most likely the cause. Phosphate test kits are junk. Are you running GFO?

Clancaster23 · 05/05/2011, 05:06 PM

A photo of what, the algae? I doubt I can get it in a pic. What do you mean by GFO? I'm still relatively new to the hobby so I don't have all the more advanced stuff yet.

disc1 · 05/05/2011, 05:44 PM

Phosphate tests aren't junk, but you don't need them. If you see algae, you have a phosphate issue. GFO is basically a granulated rust that you run in a reactor. It removes phosphate from the water. It is a pretty standard answer to an algae problem. If you start having issues with green hair or any of that algae you may want to look into it. It's not as big of an issue with dust algae in a newer tank. Lots of tanks get the dust algae early on.

Clancaster23 · 05/05/2011, 08:05 PM

Yeah, all I ever get on the phosphate tests are zeros. Any other way to test to be sure?

disc1 · 05/06/2011, 09:05 AM

The phosphate is locked up in the algae. So you will never see it. Algae is usually a sign of nutrient issues, phosphate and nitrate. That's why people say phosphate test is free, just look for algae.

D-Nak · 05/06/2011, 12:30 PM

I recommend running a GFO reactor, works wonders. When the algae starts to come back, I know it's time to replace the GFO. Bulk Reef Supply (and other etailers) sell everything you need. I have the BRS GFO reactor running the high capacity GFO and it's great.

Clancaster23 · 05/09/2011, 12:10 PM

I took off the cover yesterday before the lights were timed to come on for the day, looks great. It actually looks a lot brighter and cleaner. So far, no signs of the algae I was getting. Hope it stays that way. I'm looking into geting my sump going and will also be looking at a UV light to add to it but for now, I just hope it maintains itself until then.

tkeracer619 · 05/09/2011, 07:36 PM

skip the uv. There are plenty of more useful things you can spend your cash on.

RO/DI and a good skimmer should be your priorities.

05/02/2011, 04:52 PM	#1
Clancaster23 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Posts: 204	Green to brown algae on glass I have had my 75 gallon set up and running for about five months now. Within the last month or so I would get a film of green algae on the glass daily. Within the last week or two the green algae has turned to brown. I could scrape the glass off two times a day if I wanted to to keep it clear, that's how fast it grows. I don't have strong lights, only a 216 watt T5. I am using distilled water as I haven't gotten a RO/DI system yet. Is the tank just going through a phase which I have read happens to new tanks or is there something I can do to stop the algae grwoing on the glass?

05/04/2011, 11:51 PM	#18
tkeracer619 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Westminster, CO Posts: 17,289	Post a photo for an ID. Nutrients are most likely the cause. Phosphate test kits are junk. Are you running GFO? __________________ Hobby Experience: 9200ish gallons, 26 skimmers, and a handful of Kent Scrapers. Current Tank: Vortech Powered 600G SPS Tank w/ 100gal frag tank & 100g Sump. RK2-RK10 Skimmer. ReefAngel. Radium 20k.

05/09/2011, 07:36 PM	#25
tkeracer619 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Westminster, CO Posts: 17,289	skip the uv. There are plenty of more useful things you can spend your cash on. RO/DI and a good skimmer should be your priorities. __________________ Hobby Experience: 9200ish gallons, 26 skimmers, and a handful of Kent Scrapers. Current Tank: Vortech Powered 600G SPS Tank w/ 100gal frag tank & 100g Sump. RK2-RK10 Skimmer. ReefAngel. Radium 20k.

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05/02/2011, 05:20 PM	#2
critofer Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Cape Coral, FL Posts: 294	It might be because Your using distilled water, I use tap water (well we have a Rainsoft water system) but I just use water from my sink. I get brown and green algae like that to! Also Your lights could be going bad. Try getting turbo snails or zebra snails to clean your glass. Hope this helps. Critofer

05/02/2011, 08:59 PM	#4
Clancaster23 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Posts: 204	I have used the wal-mart water. I was told it isn't good enough for a saltwater system and that distilled would be better. I actually have been using the wal-mart (Culligan) water up til now. I will be looking into UV's. Just added three more turbos in yesterday (five total) and had 10 nerites. You can see that they do occasionally get the glass but can definitely be better.

05/02/2011, 09:23 PM	#5
hollister Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Posts: 2,037	Whats used for water movement and do you do water changes?

05/02/2011, 09:34 PM	#6
Clancaster23 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Posts: 204	Two Koralia 1050's. I do water changes though not as often as most due to the fact that I have to go get the water when I do. I probably do a 10 gallon change (not top-off) every three weeks or so.

05/02/2011, 10:16 PM	#7
disc1 -RT * ln(k) Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Little Rock Posts: 9,705	An RODI unit for 150 bucks, little more, little less. Saves you so much trouble. Turn your lights off and don't turn them on again for three days. When you turn them back on, I bet the dust algae is gone.

05/03/2011, 08:54 AM	#8
mapleredta Reef addict Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Cochran, Georgia Posts: 387	How about direct sun light?

05/03/2011, 09:29 AM	#9
Clancaster23 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Posts: 204	Aside from light that comes in the room from a small sliding window and the small window that is in the door, it gets no other light. There is another sliding window next to the tank but it's covered up for this exact reason. The only time I would get any direct light from the sun shining directly on the tank would be early morning with an angle through the window in the door and it's rained so much for the last month, I doubt this has happened very many times at all.

05/03/2011, 12:09 PM	#10
Clancaster23 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Posts: 204	Tested water and everything is good. Zeros in ammonia, nitrates and nitrites. Ph is 8.2. 1.025 Salinity and phosphate zero, calcium is 440 and Kh is 143.2.

05/03/2011, 12:44 PM	#11
disc1 -RT * ln(k) Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Little Rock Posts: 9,705	That little sunlight isn't your problem, but you should block it while doing a lights out period. The algae you are seeing is a normal phase for a newish tank to go through.

05/03/2011, 01:54 PM	#12
Clancaster23 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Posts: 204	If I was to do a lights out period, should I still clean the algae off every day or just let it go?

05/03/2011, 02:39 PM	#13
mapleredta Reef addict Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Cochran, Georgia Posts: 387	You could always run a GFO/Carbon reactor.

05/03/2011, 03:15 PM	#14
disc1 -RT * ln(k) Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Little Rock Posts: 9,705	You shouldn't have to clean the glass at all. Just unplug the lights and don't turn them on even for a minute for three days. Some people will even wrap a sheet around the tank to keep ambient light out, but I didn't go that far. On the fourth day, do a reduced light cycle and then go back to normal. When the lights come back on the fourth day, the glass will look clear. If the algae comes back, wait about a month and do it again and start thinking about nutrient removal via GFO / carbon / macro / whatever. This trick works with other algae to varying degrees, but it is especially effective against the green / brown dusty stuff that you are dealing with.

05/03/2011, 03:17 PM	#15
disc1 -RT * ln(k) Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Little Rock Posts: 9,705	I would make sure to block the sunlight from getting to it too for the three dark days.

05/04/2011, 03:31 PM	#16
Clancaster23 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Posts: 204	I'm going to give the dark period a try but this will not have any ill effect on the corals in there will it? I have zoas, a hammer, frogspawn and a mushroom in there. Also, should I drop a little food in there for the fish or should they be ok for the time being?

05/04/2011, 05:24 PM	#17
disc1 -RT * ln(k) Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Little Rock Posts: 9,705	Your corals will be fine for three days. Just tell them that a big storm blew in and the clouds are covering the sun. You can feed the fish if they are out and about. Some fish won't really eat in the dark, but they won't starve to death in three days.

05/05/2011, 05:06 PM	#19
Clancaster23 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Posts: 204	A photo of what, the algae? I doubt I can get it in a pic. What do you mean by GFO? I'm still relatively new to the hobby so I don't have all the more advanced stuff yet.

05/05/2011, 05:44 PM	#20
disc1 -RT * ln(k) Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Little Rock Posts: 9,705	Phosphate tests aren't junk, but you don't need them. If you see algae, you have a phosphate issue. GFO is basically a granulated rust that you run in a reactor. It removes phosphate from the water. It is a pretty standard answer to an algae problem. If you start having issues with green hair or any of that algae you may want to look into it. It's not as big of an issue with dust algae in a newer tank. Lots of tanks get the dust algae early on.

05/05/2011, 08:05 PM	#21
Clancaster23 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Posts: 204	Yeah, all I ever get on the phosphate tests are zeros. Any other way to test to be sure?

05/06/2011, 09:05 AM	#22
disc1 -RT * ln(k) Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Little Rock Posts: 9,705	The phosphate is locked up in the algae. So you will never see it. Algae is usually a sign of nutrient issues, phosphate and nitrate. That's why people say phosphate test is free, just look for algae.

05/06/2011, 12:30 PM	#23
D-Nak Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Bay Area, CA Posts: 5,797	I recommend running a GFO reactor, works wonders. When the algae starts to come back, I know it's time to replace the GFO. Bulk Reef Supply (and other etailers) sell everything you need. I have the BRS GFO reactor running the high capacity GFO and it's great.

05/09/2011, 12:10 PM	#24
Clancaster23 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Posts: 204	I took off the cover yesterday before the lights were timed to come on for the day, looks great. It actually looks a lot brighter and cleaner. So far, no signs of the algae I was getting. Hope it stays that way. I'm looking into geting my sump going and will also be looking at a UV light to add to it but for now, I just hope it maintains itself until then.