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Unread 01/22/2014, 12:39 AM   #51
Chebby
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aquaenthusiast View Post
would the apex breakout box also be able to switch the solenoids on/off?
No the breakout box cannot drive control of anything. It is just a continuity checker.

Quote:
Originally Posted by aquaenthusiast View Post
what does the 550 flow restrictor ensure before the water enters the kalk reactor?
The flow restrictor ensures 2 things. First is most solenoids need a tiny bit of pressure to open and along with the top-off pump this is accomplished. Second is when the valve is open, that path only has a tiny amount of restriction compared to the restrictor path and so the majority of the water will take the solenoid path.


All floats are now connected to breakout box. I did add another 'oh crap my filter pad and sock are clogged' float. I will probably be able to hear the change in sound of water overflowing differently into the sump but this is a nice backup just in case.
I added a digital temperature fan controller that I will use to circulate fresh air from the cabinet doors and also aim at the sump surface to cool it down a bit when needed.
I decided that I will eventually mount the ozone air pump and dryer to the wall above the counter top so as to start with less humid air and make changing the desiccant easy. I will eventually migrate one of the EB8s from my other tank and mount on the wall too for connecting up the lights and wave makers.
I got my lab grade PH and ORP probes. I am debating whether to get a salinity probe and use that in the mixing tank.
I got a cheap Full HD Chinese 9" tablet that I will mount to the upper cabinet and use as a monitor and controller.
And finally I added a temporary return pipe to the drain so I can perform a full water test and check everything out and fix any drips while it is still open and easy to do.
One thing I did realize I was missing was a RODI line for filling my dosing mixture containers and whatnot.




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Unread 01/22/2014, 04:40 AM   #52
agcneves
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Keep up the great work!
Good luck!


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ZEOVIT Dream Tank of the Quarter of 2011. DTQM

Current Tank Info: 1700 liters (445 G), Tunze and Reef Octupus Skimmers, 6 MP40 Vortech, Zeovit Reactor, light 8 T5 and 4 MH, Balling powered
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Unread 01/30/2014, 12:24 AM   #53
Chebby
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Got some programming done the past few days. In the process found my flow switch would get stuck. Just had to change to a larger diameter pipe to fix that.

Tonight I played with water Tested that I could fill the fresh RODI holding tank and that its overflow to the drain could handle the float cutoff valve not functioning. Also tested that the RO source does properly shut off when the float cutoff valve rises and restarts when it drops. Tested that my ATO pump works. My Kalk bypass works flawlessly.

What I did not like was that my mix tank fill solenoid is very loud. I know it will take a LONG time to fill 29G tank so this has to be remedied. I will probably have to remove it and put a mechanical one in its place. Another thing I did not like was the float cutoff valve I use in the mix tank was really restrictive. Like 10 drops per second. When I disconnected the line it flowed as one would expect a gravity flow should. When I look into the float valve it is literally a pin hole. I will try to drill it larger. If I can't get that to work, I could either change to a Normally Open solenoid and only shut it when a different float switch indicates tank full then close the mechanical valve or may have to add another ATO pump that periodically runs until float switch tells me tank is full. Many options to consider. I am in no hurry.


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Unread 01/30/2014, 01:26 AM   #54
alain94
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Thumbs up

great work


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Unread 02/10/2014, 03:19 PM   #55
Chebby
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Not much progress on new build to report. Just gaining confidence that the RO system is robust as I use it to fill the jugs for my other tank. I have some sand (Fiji pink) and more rocks on order.

My algae blenny I have had for 4 years died over the weekend. He started getting a bloated belly a few months back but seemed otherwise fine. Not sure what happened (worms? constipated?).


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Unread 02/26/2014, 11:31 PM   #56
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My MAG5 mixing pump was horribly loud and the vibration reverberated the whole stand. It had to go. I replaced it with a Waveline DC4000 and I am much relieved. This DC pump is near silent. There is no way it runs at its rated 1000GPH, but works for my application.



With each water change bucket from my 90G tank, I am slowing filling this sump up. A whole bunch more and I can do a full test


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Unread 02/27/2014, 02:09 PM   #57
justshoe
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Awesome build. With regards to the waveline not running at maxflow. Is there anyway to ditch the 90 on the intake? Also maybe see if the two 45s on the outlet could be changed. I have one that runs a return on my 100 gallon setup with no restriction on the inlet and one 45 before it hits the tank , i have no doubt it does everybit of 800 gph with around 3ft of head pressure.


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Unread 02/27/2014, 07:32 PM   #58
Chebby
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justshoe View Post
With regards to the waveline not running at maxflow. Is there anyway to ditch the 90 on the intake?
You tickled my mind and I think I figured it out. The 90 is not the problem, but rather I am feeding pump with a 1/2 line from tank bulkhead into the 5/4 pump input. So I am starving the pump I guess. Will that shorten the pump's life? I could re-drill the tank. But is it worth it? The Mag5 ran great during my outdoor test with just 1/2.


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Unread 02/27/2014, 07:51 PM   #59
justshoe
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I think they have different impeller designs that may change things. If it were me I would make the hole as large as possible you always want intakes to match. So I would want at least a 1" but I believe they are 1 1/4" intake. Is there room in that tank to run it submerged.
Also I switched out my mag 9.5 running to a single locline return nozzle, I now have the waveline on a dual nozzle return and the flow appears to be stronger from each than the mag 9.5 was from one


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Unread 02/28/2014, 02:18 AM   #60
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Awesome build.


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Unread 03/01/2014, 02:19 PM   #61
kriv4o
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This build is amazing. Can you provide some more info about the flow switch (from pg2 that controls your ozone generator)?


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Unread 03/03/2014, 09:11 PM   #62
Chebby
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kriv4o View Post
Can you provide some more info about the flow switch (from pg2 that controls your ozone generator)?
It is a common thing from hot tubs to turn off the heater if the pump is not running. It works in nearly the same way as a float switch. There is a little magnet/ferrite on the end of a plastic reed that when the water pushes it to the center stick, it completes the circuit.


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Unread 03/03/2014, 09:36 PM   #63
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I had a 1" bulkhead laying around so decided to enlarge the mixing tank hole from .5". Good news I proved to myself I have enough unions to disconnect and remove something. Also the Plasti-Dip rubber spray held up and did not need any retouching.




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Unread 03/04/2014, 05:58 PM   #64
justshoe
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Looks good, I think this will help flow .


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Unread 03/05/2014, 10:02 PM   #65
Chebby
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Better to break now than when everything is running.




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Unread 03/06/2014, 07:44 AM   #66
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is that the waveline? I know someone that went thru 3 reef octo dc's with the same problem.


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Am I really doing all of this for a fish tank??????

Current Tank Info: 360g Envision Acrylic Tank, Closed Loops, Vectra L1's, MP40QD's, 400w Radiums, Regal 300ext, Dastaco Ext3 CaRx, Controlled by GHL Profilux
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Unread 03/06/2014, 11:39 AM   #67
Chebby
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPotter View Post
is that the waveline?
Yes


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Unread 03/06/2014, 06:03 PM   #68
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300g Mixed Reef Journey

Can I ask how it happened? Were you twisting the fitting on, did it just snap while the pump was running?

I'm going to be using two of the dc12000 pumps on my new tank for closed loop pumps. I'm growing more and more nervous about this happening as I see this issue popping up more and more . Last thing I want is this to happen on the Cl's when I'm not home and drain 360g of water!


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Steve

Am I really doing all of this for a fish tank??????

Current Tank Info: 360g Envision Acrylic Tank, Closed Loops, Vectra L1's, MP40QD's, 400w Radiums, Regal 300ext, Dastaco Ext3 CaRx, Controlled by GHL Profilux
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Unread 03/07/2014, 02:32 PM   #69
Chebby
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPotter View Post
Can I ask how it happened? Were you twisting the fitting on, did it just snap while the pump was running?
After I disconnected my unions, I grabbed the top of the pump to move it and just the side force of my hand on the outlet snapped it. There were a few threads left so after I enlarged my tank bulkhead and connected it back up, it was fine for a few seconds then started leaking. I started to remove it again and the remainder of the outlet threads broke. Then trying to remove the inlet pipe, that broke too!

Perhaps you are only supposed to use the supplied screw-on hose barb fittings?


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Unread 03/07/2014, 03:10 PM   #70
justshoe
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I read of this happening on quite a few pumps. From what I gather and what I did with mine is as follows. You only need to snug it tight. Also use some thread paste along with Teflon tape to help it twist easier. I used this method and had no problems with mine sealing without making it very tight. I also put a union right after it so if I ever need to change pipe size I can do it after the union and not have to take off the threaded adapter again.


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Unread 03/25/2014, 09:26 PM   #71
Chebby
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Found a source for replacement pieces and pump is back together. This time I only snugged the connections.



After all this... the flow is the same


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Unread 03/26/2014, 06:19 PM   #72
SPotter
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did you ever find out what caused this to happen? I have spoken with a couple of distributors for various labeled dc pumps and they indicated that this type of cracking has been happening more frequently when the pumps are hard plumbed instead of using the barb fittings. They said that the vibration from the pumps and the hard fittings are causing the threads to weaken and snap over time. they suggested using the barb fitting with flex pvc that then connects to hard fittings. I hope you have better luck this time around.


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Steve

Am I really doing all of this for a fish tank??????

Current Tank Info: 360g Envision Acrylic Tank, Closed Loops, Vectra L1's, MP40QD's, 400w Radiums, Regal 300ext, Dastaco Ext3 CaRx, Controlled by GHL Profilux
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Unread 03/26/2014, 07:42 PM   #73
MrineLfRlz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chebby View Post
My MAG5 mixing pump was horribly loud and the vibration reverberated the whole stand. It had to go. I replaced it with a Waveline DC4000 and I am much relieved. This DC pump is near silent. There is no way it runs at its rated 1000GPH, but works for my application.



With each water change bucket from my 90G tank, I am slowing filling this sump up. A whole bunch more and I can do a full test
were did you get the solenoid ?


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its not a obsession its a way of life!--75g DT/125g sump/40g growout/30g frag/ATI sun power x8/t5 on DT/X2 D120 leds 40g/Sun blaze x4/t5 30g

Current Tank Info: BubbleMagus(calc.,alk/Clearwater CW-300 Scrubber//56wAQUA UV/Reef Oct.SRO6000SSS Protein sk./1/10HP Chiller/GENESIS AWC
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Unread 03/27/2014, 04:00 PM   #74
Chebby
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPotter View Post
did you ever find out what caused this to happen?
Cheap plastic, poor thread tolerance, metric threads? I've hard plumbed all sorts of other pumps over the years with no problems.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MrineLfRlz View Post
were did you get the solenoid ?
Ebay, company called Ehcotech.


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Unread 03/27/2014, 04:17 PM   #75
fixmgood
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Great build,you have certainly packed the stuff in there.How do you have your Tunze level controller hooked up.Do you have it plugged into your Apex with a separate float switch.
What type of float switches are you using.Are you using a breakout box to control them,you possibly answered this earlier I will need to reread the post.


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Current Tank Info: 450g AGE,200 gallon sump, Red Dragon Speedy 230w return pump and closed loop,4 way Ocean Motion,PM Balistic Skimmer.3 Sea Swirl returns.AI Hydra 52HD,Apex contoller. Build thread "The after disaster 650g build"
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