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Old 08/22/2019, 01:37 PM   #1
Popytoys
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My pair clownfish eat their eggs?

hi everyone,

I have a pair of clownfish (Gladiators) raised for almost two years. They are very healthy and good color. But they are little timid and always hide behind the big rock... Until Tuesday I saw the bigger one laying eggs on rocks!

I am so happy and start to think about what next... I saw the "male" picking the eggs so I think hmmm it just tried to spawn them or clean them... then after another while... seems like all the eggs were gone! I still saw the female laying eggs... but both of them kept "eating" them.

I could see a tube from the female body...but i could not see a tube on the male...does it mean the eggs not fertilized so they both clean them by eating them all? Or it is just a nature that they just eat their eggs?

I am thinking about to pub a tile ( a china pot will be too big for my 10G IM tank)..do you think the tile will bother them not to lay eggs again? I am some bristle worms in the tank...

Please advise or share your experience.

Thank you

Popytoys


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Old 08/22/2019, 06:54 PM   #2
ThRoewer
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Was that their first time spawning?


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Pairs: 4 percula, 3 P. kauderni, 3 D. excisus, 1 ea of P. diacanthus, S. splendidus, C. altivelis O. rosenblatti, D. janssi, S. yasha & a Gramma loreto trio
3 P. diacanthus. 2 C. starcki

Current Tank Info: 200 gal 4 tank system (40x28x24 + 40B + 40B sump tank + 20g refugium) + 30x18x18 mixed reef + 20g East Pacific biotop + 20g FW +...
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Old 08/23/2019, 07:03 PM   #3
Popytoys
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Yes they r... my first first to see that happen too 7


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Old 08/30/2019, 04:21 PM   #4
Uncle99
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Counterproductive but normal on first spawn.
They will spawn again in weeks
They will pick at the eggs to remove bad ones
They will definitely eat any fry which ultimately hatch.
Remove to a rearing tank when eyes go silver


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Old 09/06/2019, 10:41 AM   #5
Popytoys
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Hi thank you for your response. After 2 weeks it spawns again... good news is i saw the male lay in the eggs after the female did. So i know soome could be fertilized. After 8 hours i could still see the eggs attached in the rock... and thr male tried to attack me when i tried to remove a goby, which is part of the bad news that i think it ate mist of the eggs. So there r only small badge left. I do not expect i will get anything but just tried to get some practise for the next time.

Do u think the rotifers i get from local store... how much and hiw often i need to feed the fish?

Thanks! Have a nice day!


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Old 09/06/2019, 01:56 PM   #6
ThRoewer
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Unless you collect just a handful you will need to get a stable culture going to produce enough food for the larva.


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Pairs: 4 percula, 3 P. kauderni, 3 D. excisus, 1 ea of P. diacanthus, S. splendidus, C. altivelis O. rosenblatti, D. janssi, S. yasha & a Gramma loreto trio
3 P. diacanthus. 2 C. starcki

Current Tank Info: 200 gal 4 tank system (40x28x24 + 40B + 40B sump tank + 20g refugium) + 30x18x18 mixed reef + 20g East Pacific biotop + 20g FW +...
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Old 09/07/2019, 06:52 AM   #7
Uncle99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Popytoys View Post
Hi thank you for your response. After 2 weeks it spawns again... good news is i saw the male lay in the eggs after the female did. So i know soome could be fertilized. After 8 hours i could still see the eggs attached in the rock... and thr male tried to attack me when i tried to remove a goby, which is part of the bad news that i think it ate mist of the eggs. So there r only small badge left. I do not expect i will get anything but just tried to get some practise for the next time.

Do u think the rotifers i get from local store... how much and hiw often i need to feed the fish?

Thanks! Have a nice day!
I don't know the quality of ther Rotifers, I culture my own and then feed them phyto and Selcon about 4 hours before they go in the rearing tank with the fry.
This I do to try and make them somewhat more nutritional.

I drip the Rotifers slowly but continuously, for about 7 -10 days at which I try to start some transitioning pulverized flake, each new group is slightly different.

The amount varies widely with the number of fry, but I drip about a ML per hour.
For me, I know the level is right when the water goes just a bit cloudy.


You need to get the fry out of the tank and into a 5g for this to work.

These days I use a tank with a screen with 1/8" holes and a flashlight to automatically separate the fry from the parents, but spent years waiting up when the eyes go silver to catch as much as the hatch as possible. They should be hatching at night, maybe 1-3 hours after lights out. The fry are attracted to light. They are very delicate at this early stage. Sometimes I get a false hatch, say 25-50 first night, followed by the rest on the second night.

Have fun



Last edited by Uncle99; 09/07/2019 at 07:04 AM.
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Old 09/07/2019, 09:22 AM   #8
ThRoewer
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I would have the parents lay their eggs inside a flowerpot or on a rock I could easily remove. Then on hatch day I would transfer the whole nest to the larva tank. This worked every time and is so much better than larva traps or midnight larva scooping.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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Pairs: 4 percula, 3 P. kauderni, 3 D. excisus, 1 ea of P. diacanthus, S. splendidus, C. altivelis O. rosenblatti, D. janssi, S. yasha & a Gramma loreto trio
3 P. diacanthus. 2 C. starcki

Current Tank Info: 200 gal 4 tank system (40x28x24 + 40B + 40B sump tank + 20g refugium) + 30x18x18 mixed reef + 20g East Pacific biotop + 20g FW +...
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Old 09/07/2019, 11:14 AM   #9
Uncle99
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The problem we had with pots or clay pieces is once removed, parent care stops as well. Up to the point of hatching, the parents provide care in oxygenating the eggs and removing the bad ones so they do not hamper the good ones. We also seemed to have less irregularities, which we attributed to the parents picking out the "bad ones" but can't prove that. Good timing mitigates this issue.

While fanning can be done with an airstone, it can be a difficult balance and picking out bad ones cannot be done.

By allowing the fry to hatch without interference and swim naturally towards the light, we maximized the amount of fry we got especially when the hatch was a two night affair.

Our simple partitioning, is virtually automatic in separating parents from fry, with very little loss. We use identical setups for breeding cleaner shrimps. The fry run to the light after hatching, egg sacks keep them alive till morning, then we just remove the parents, the partition, and what's left is a fry tank, just start the rotifer flow.

Our fry never see a hand or net until metamorphisis has completed, at this point they transfer quite well.



Last edited by Uncle99; 09/07/2019 at 11:27 AM.
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Old 09/11/2019, 10:49 AM   #10
Popytoys
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Hi thanks for the info. May i ask if raising the rotifers needs to working on something everyday? I nay not have enough time to do everyday. Fo u have a good link on how to raise it so i can get some ideas?

Btw finally all the eggs are gone ( looks like still eaten bu the parents) . But they last 3 days instead of 1 hour compared to the first time. Now i put some tiles and the fish look happy w it. I hope they will lay the egg on yhe tile so i can remove them easily.

Still wonder why they ate their eggs... i think some could be fertilized... but how do they know which one is healthy?... this hobby really gives me a lot of fun but also curiosity


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Old 09/11/2019, 01:10 PM   #11
ThRoewer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle99 View Post
The problem we had with pots or clay pieces is once removed, parent care stops as well. Up to the point of hatching, the parents provide care in oxygenating the eggs and removing the bad ones so they do not hamper the good ones. We also seemed to have less irregularities, which we attributed to the parents picking out the "bad ones" but can't prove that. Good timing mitigates this issue.

While fanning can be done with an airstone, it can be a difficult balance and picking out bad ones cannot be done.

By allowing the fry to hatch without interference and swim naturally towards the light, we maximized the amount of fry we got especially when the hatch was a two night affair.

Our simple partitioning, is virtually automatic in separating parents from fry, with very little loss. We use identical setups for breeding cleaner shrimps. The fry run to the light after hatching, egg sacks keep them alive till morning, then we just remove the parents, the partition, and what's left is a fry tank, just start the rotifer flow.

Our fry never see a hand or net until metamorphisis has completed, at this point they transfer quite well.
I usually removed the pot with the nest just before the light was to go out on the night they would hatch and my hatch rates were generally 99 to 100%. At that point, picking out bad ones by the parents is no longer critical. Even if I took it out a day too early the hatch success was at around the same rate.
I got between 300 and 600 percula and ocellaris juveniles through metamorphosis and to a 1 cm length per hatch. With clarkii it were over a thousand.
So I would think that it works quite well if done right.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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Pairs: 4 percula, 3 P. kauderni, 3 D. excisus, 1 ea of P. diacanthus, S. splendidus, C. altivelis O. rosenblatti, D. janssi, S. yasha & a Gramma loreto trio
3 P. diacanthus. 2 C. starcki

Current Tank Info: 200 gal 4 tank system (40x28x24 + 40B + 40B sump tank + 20g refugium) + 30x18x18 mixed reef + 20g East Pacific biotop + 20g FW +...
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