Bubble King Skimmer Club

[slief]

Originally Posted by teebone110

Question, I have noticed that in my SM200, the bubbles stay in the top half of the skimmer body, is there a way to adjust this?

If I remember correctly, its sitting at 9 inches water depth.

Are there any obvious adjustments needed?

Thanks in advance

It might help to see a picture but if you want to raise the level of the bubbles, you can either increase the sump depth or close the wedge pipe some. The ideal sump depth is relative to the load in the system, salinity and other factors. If your SM200 has the RD3 pump, the ideal speed for the pump is between 28 and 32 watts. You want to adjust the speed to get the most dense/thickest foam possible. If you have the standard Red Dragon pump, closing the nozzle on the pump will decrease the amount of air into the skimmer and increase the amount of water. This will raise the water level in the skimmer. Opening increase air and decreases the water flow which lowers the water level.

We have a dedicated Royal Exclusiv for here and there is a setup and tuning thread with lots of info. I would suggest reading through it as it will give you a lot of insight into fine tuning your skimmer. It would also be a good place to post a picture of the foam level inside your skimmer.

Here is a link to that thread.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2546139

[teebone110]

Originally Posted by slief

It might help to see a picture but if you want to raise the level of the bubbles, you can either increase the sump depth or close the wedge pipe some. The ideal sump depth is relative to the load in the system, salinity and other factors. If your SM200 has the RD3 pump, the ideal speed for the pump is between 28 and 32 watts. You want to adjust the speed to get the most dense/thickest foam possible. If you have the standard Red Dragon pump, closing the nozzle on the pump will decrease the amount of air into the skimmer and increase the amount of water. This will raise the water level in the skimmer. Opening increase air and decreases the water flow which lowers the water level.

We have a dedicated Royal Exclusiv for here and there is a setup and tuning thread with lots of info. I would suggest reading through it as it will give you a lot of insight into fine tuning your skimmer. It would also be a good place to post a picture of the foam level inside your skimmer.

Here is a link to that thread.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2546139

Thanks, please see my response in the above link

[Bossy @ Belgium]

hello everyone,

i have a bubble king mini 200 but the pump died on me.
I think it's the first generation (old black pump cover) and uses the bubble king 1000 pump.
What laguna pump would be the replacement block for my pump: the 960 (4000Lph) or the 1350/old 1500 (5000Lph). I have acces to all pumps...

greetings,

Bossy

[slief]

Originally Posted by Bossy @ Belgium

hello everyone,

i have a bubble king mini 200 but the pump died on me.
I think it's the first generation (old black pump cover) and uses the bubble king 1000 pump.
What laguna pump would be the replacement block for my pump: the 960 (4000Lph) or the 1350/old 1500 (5000Lph). I have acces to all pumps...

greetings,

Bossy

I don't think you can use an off the shelf laguna maxflo 1000 for that motor/volute combo. Royal Exclusiv used a custom block that had a special speed setting as well as other subtle differences. You also get the base plate when you order the original. My suggestion would be to order the replacement block from Germany at RoyalExclusiv.net. You can try a Maxflo 1000 but it's a crap shoot..

[Bossy @ Belgium]

So the blocks used in the first generation are different than the ones used in 2gen?
I only thought it was the volute that was upgraded?

didn't the 180 gen2 use the same as the 200gen1?

wouldn!t an 1500/1350 fit?

grts Bossy

[slief]

I think there is a subtle difference to the face of the block as the older volute has a tab that hangs down below the face of it. It's hard to explain but we went through a similar situation with a customer who bought a newer block to replace his old block and there was a difference. As for a 1500/1350 block, i don't know but it will likely cause your impeller to spin at a high rate of speed and which will send more water and air into your skimmer. As i said, Royal Exclusiv didn't use an off the shelf block for the lower power pumps. They had some subtle changes made to speed of the pump to balance them out in certain skimmers. If the volute can be fitted to the 1500/1350 block, you may need to change your sump depth and tuning to accommodate the high flow that will be generated by the more powerful block and whether this skimmer will remain balanced is an unknown.

Have you tried taking your pump completely apart, removing the bearing at the back of the block in the magnet cavity and cleaning the bearing inside and out? Also cleaning the end of the impeller shaft? Any calcium buildup in the bearing will cause the pump to go into protection mode. It can also cause premature failure of the block. That is a key area of maintenance and often overlooked. It is however covered in the manual for the skimmer. Very often, customer think their block is dead but a good deep cleaning of the impeller and bearing will often fix the issue. All to often, people don't pay attention to that little bearing inside the pump.

[Bossy @ Belgium]

ok, thank you for the information!

can it be a possibility to take the needle wheel from the pump and put it on the impeller of the original laguna pump?

grts Bossy

[slief]

Originally Posted by Bossy @ Belgium

ok, thank you for the information!

can it be a possibility to take the needle wheel from the pump and put it on the impeller of the original laguna pump?

grts Bossy

No. That won't do any good. It's not the magnet on the impeller or the needle wheel. It's the block that is different. If it were me, I would suggest getting the correct block for your skimmer. This is from one hobbyist to another. Believe me, I have no dog in this fight. I know it's more expensive but sometimes, playing it safe is the best way to go. In this case, there are differences between the RD1000 block and the Askoll/Laguna 1350/1500 block and chances are you skimmer will not perform the same even if the volute fits the new block. We have a saying here. Don't cut your nose to spite your face.

[h3dgehog]

This might be a ridiculous question but a question nonetheless...

Would a BK Mini 160 gen 3 work on my tank? I have the feelign that it is way too overkill... But it is a skimmer that will fit my small skimmer section (7.5" x 18").

Spec:
- Fish: 1 sunburst anthias, 1 coris wrasse, 1 flasher wrasse, 1 chromis, and maybe 2 clownfish (pending)
- Feeding habits: frozen foods twice a day and amino acids/coral foods every other day alternating.
-vodka dosing regimen.
-SPS heavy display.
-Tank is ~36 gallons without accounting for rocks (minimal aquascape)
-Sump has ~ 10-12 total gallons of water.

Thoughts? If BK Mini 160 is off the table, anyone got suggestions on BK quality skimmer for my needs?

[slief]

Originally Posted by h3dgehog

This might be a ridiculous question but a question nonetheless...

Would a BK Mini 160 gen 3 work on my tank? I have the feelign that it is way too overkill... But it is a skimmer that will fit my small skimmer section (7.5" x 18").

Spec:
- Fish: 1 sunburst anthias, 1 coris wrasse, 1 flasher wrasse, 1 chromis, and maybe 2 clownfish (pending)
- Feeding habits: frozen foods twice a day and amino acids/coral foods every other day alternating.
-vodka dosing regimen.
-SPS heavy display.
-Tank is ~36 gallons without accounting for rocks (minimal aquascape)
-Sump has ~ 10-12 total gallons of water.

Thoughts? If BK Mini 160 is off the table, anyone got suggestions on BK quality skimmer for my needs?

While it would work, it would likely end up skimming inconsistently if you ran it dry. If you run it wet, that would help to make it more consistent. Do you have any plans to upgrade your display size in the future?

[Eauturquoise]

Hi everyone,

This message for a question.

Could you confirm me that in this 'screw nozzle' position I am under skimming :





Thanks

[slief]

Originally Posted by Eauturquoise

Hi everyone,

This message for a question.

Could you confirm me that in this 'screw nozzle' position I am under skimming :





Thanks

Not sure exactly what you are asking but the idea behind the adjustable nozzle is to use it for creating the most dense foam. Every tank is different based on load and salinity. I normally recommend stating at 1 full turns out from fully closed. It looks to me like you are turned out much more than that. It helps to turn the nozzle all the way in so it's fully closed and take a sharpie pen and mark the nozzle and the part that it threads into with a straight line so you have a point of reference for how may turns out you are as you make adjustments. Open it a little at a time from the starting point and let it settle down for several hours. Continue to make small adjustments until you find the point where you have the thickest foam. This is likely to be between 1 and 2 turns out. I suggest taking notes as you go. Once you exceed the best point, you will likely note that the foam either slows substantially or you encounter bubbles that burst at the surface. Once you find the best foam quality, you will then need to adjust the water level inside the skimmer so that the line where it transitions from bubbles to foam is up into the neck. I suggest opening the wedge pipe all the way and using the sump level to get that line to the base of the neck. From the looks of it, your sump may not be adjustable in which case you may have to depend on your wedge pipe to raise and lower the level in the skimmer. If you can adjust your sump level, raise the level in the sump until you get the transition from bubbles to foam up to the thread part where the neck attaches to the body of the skimmer. That would be your driest skim point. From there, you use the wedge pipe to adjust from dry to wet skim. If you can't adjust your sump level, then just close the wedge pipe until you get the level to the point that the skimmate is to your liking. Remember, to make adjustments slowly. Every time you reach into the water to adjust the nozzle, the oils on your skin will impact he surface tension in the water and it can take several hours for the skimmer to settle back down to where it should be. Even other adjustments will impact the skimmer performance for a while so make an adjustment and let the skimmer settle back down.

We have a dedicated sponsor forum here with a setup and tuning thread that might be helpful for you in the future.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2546139

[Eauturquoise]

Originally Posted by slief

Not sure exactly what you are asking but the idea behind the adjustable nozzle is to use it for creating the most dense foam. Every tank is different based on load and salinity. I normally recommend stating at 1 full turns out from fully closed. It looks to me like you are turned out much more than that. It helps to turn the nozzle all the way in so it's fully closed and take a sharpie pen and mark the nozzle and the part that it threads into with a straight line so you have a point of reference for how may turns out you are as you make adjustments. Open it a little at a time from the starting point and let it settle down for several hours. Continue to make small adjustments until you find the point where you have the thickest foam. This is likely to be between 1 and 2 turns out. I suggest taking notes as you go. Once you exceed the best point, you will likely note that the foam either slows substantially or you encounter bubbles that burst at the surface. Once you find the best foam quality, you will then need to adjust the water level inside the skimmer so that the line where it transitions from bubbles to foam is up into the neck. I suggest opening the wedge pipe all the way and using the sump level to get that line to the base of the neck. From the looks of it, your sump may not be adjustable in which case you may have to depend on your wedge pipe to raise and lower the level in the skimmer. If you can adjust your sump level, raise the level in the sump until you get the transition from bubbles to foam up to the thread part where the neck attaches to the body of the skimmer. That would be your driest skim point. From there, you use the wedge pipe to adjust from dry to wet skim. If you can't adjust your sump level, then just close the wedge pipe until you get the level to the point that the skimmate is to your liking. Remember, to make adjustments slowly. Every time you reach into the water to adjust the nozzle, the oils on your skin will impact he surface tension in the water and it can take several hours for the skimmer to settle back down to where it should be. Even other adjustments will impact the skimmer performance for a while so make an adjustment and let the skimmer settle back down.

We have a dedicated sponsor forum here with a setup and tuning thread that might be helpful for you in the future.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2546139

Thanks for your great answer !

[scuzy]

any words on those bubble king ecomax 250 ?

[slief]

Originally Posted by scuzy

any words on those bubble king ecomax 250 ?

At this point, the Ecomax skimmers are being sold exclusively through a distributor overseas as an OEM product. At this point, there is no immediately plans to sell them in the US. They really overlap the existing productive anyway. The Ecomax 200 is essentially a Mini 200 with a modified discharge. The Ecomax 250 is a scaled down Deluxe 250 with the pump buried inside the body. Effectively making it a Mini Deluxe 250.

[MadsDK]

How finicky is the bubble king mini 160?
is it a skimmer that usually overflows?
I need a set and forget kind of skimmer which is somehow reliable as I am often away from my home several days at a time.

[slief]

Originally Posted by MadsDK

How finicky is the bubble king mini 160?
is it a skimmer that usually overflows?
I need a set and forget kind of skimmer which is somehow reliable as I am often away from my home several days at a time.

The are one of the easier skimmers to setup and very stable as long as the water level in the sump is stable. The are not prone to overflows but with any skimmer, keeping consistent sump levels is very important. These are a set it and forget skimmer. The only thing to adjust on the mini is the water level inside the skimmer.

[andrewbram]

Does anyone here know how long the warranty is on the red dragon pump or who exactly to contact. My pump just died not sure why. It is the bubble king 1000 pump the skimmer is the 200 int.

[slief]

Originally Posted by andrewbram

Does anyone here know how long the warranty is on the red dragon pump or who exactly to contact. My pump just died not sure why. It is the bubble king 1000 pump the skimmer is the 200 int.

Warranty on the original Red Dragons is 1 year. The newer RD3 pumps include a 2 year warranty. We have forum here on reef central. It's in my signature. That said, this should be the pump motorblock you need if your pump as the AKB which is the red tube that goes between the pump cover (volute) and the side of the motorblock. This is also assuming you have the older Deluxe 200 or SM200. The blocks for the double cone 200's and mini 200's are different. If your stand comes off the pump when you remove the cover (volute) from the pump, then this is the correct block assuming your pump has the AKB as mentioned above. The part number is 138/1 and you can also order it from Premium Aquatics but you will need to contact them directly to order it from them as it's not listed on their site.
http://royalexclusiv.com/Spare-Parts...2500::177.html

That said, take a look at this thread below. The last paragraph of the first post discuss the bearing in your motorblock. If the bearing is not cleaned properly, it will cause the pump to stop and prevent it from running. The 2nd post covers how to remove the bearing for cleaning and how to reinstall it. There is a good possibility that your bearing has calcium built up in it and is creating friction on the end of the impeller shaft below the magnet. It's also possible that the bearing has stuck to the shaft. Either scenario will cause the motor to shut down and can cause premature failure of the block. This is the number one cause of these blocks failing and about the only reason the block will actually die as friction between the bearing and the impeller shaft will create undue stress on the motor and overload it causing the coils in the block to fail. In either case, there is a chance you didn't kill the block and good cleaning of the pump, impeller and bearing will get you back up and running. Also check the magnet on your impeller to make sure it doesn't spin on the shaft. If the magnet is properly bonded to the shaft and if there is no swelling in the magnet and the impeller is in good shape, then your bearing is either the issue or your block is dead. The new blocks come with a new bearing preinstalled.

Here is a thread that will help you dig deeper. Feel free to contact me if you have more questions.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2573406

[andrewbram]

Originally Posted by slief

Warranty on the original Red Dragons is 1 year. The newer RD3 pumps include a 2 year warranty. We have forum here on reef central. It's in my signature. That said, this should be the pump motorblock you need if your pump as the AKB which is the red tube that goes between the pump cover (volute) and the side of the motorblock. This is also assuming you have the older Deluxe 200 or SM200. The blocks for the double cone 200's and mini 200's are different. If your stand comes off the pump when you remove the cover (volute) from the pump, then this is the correct block assuming your pump has the AKB as mentioned above. The part number is 138/1 and you can also order it from Premium Aquatics but you will need to contact them directly to order it from them as it's not listed on their site.
http://royalexclusiv.com/Spare-Parts...2500::177.html

That said, take a look at this thread below. The last paragraph of the first post discuss the bearing in your motorblock. If the bearing is not cleaned properly, it will cause the pump to stop and prevent it from running. The 2nd post covers how to remove the bearing for cleaning and how to reinstall it. There is a good possibility that your bearing has calcium built up in it and is creating friction on the end of the impeller shaft below the magnet. It's also possible that the bearing has stuck to the shaft. Either scenario will cause the motor to shut down and can cause premature failure of the block. This is the number one cause of these blocks failing and about the only reason the block will actually die as friction between the bearing and the impeller shaft will create undue stress on the motor and overload it causing the coils in the block to fail. In either case, there is a chance you didn't kill the block and good cleaning of the pump, impeller and bearing will get you back up and running. Also check the magnet on your impeller to make sure it doesn't spin on the shaft. If the magnet is properly bonded to the shaft and if there is no swelling in the magnet and the impeller is in good shape, then your bearing is either the issue or your block is dead. The new blocks come with a new bearing preinstalled.

Here is a thread that will help you dig deeper. Feel free to contact me if you have more questions.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2573406

Thank you for the reply. Here is what mine looks like I don't think it's calcium.

[slief]

Originally Posted by andrewbram

Thank you for the reply. Here is what mine looks like I don't think it's calcium.

The end of the impeller shaft looks scored to me like the bearing was rubbing on it at one point or another. Does the bearing spin smoothly on the end of the shaft? There should be absolutely no resistance whatsoever between the bearing and the shaft. I would clean the bearing well. Maybe use a toothpick to clean inside of it. Take a ScotchBrite pad and clean the end of the shaft so it's clean and smooth. Double check that the shield between the needle wheel and the magnet also rotates smooth without any resistance. Then reinsert the bearing making sure the bearing is properly seated in the bearing cavity followed by the impeller and volute and test the pump in a bucket of water.

[andrewbram]

Thank you soaking in vinegar now.

[jerseypete]

New bubble king owner here. 160 slim. What is the best way to run a drain line to the collection cup. This is only my 2nd skimmer. My other is a lifereef. It had a drain line installed. The 160 just has a rubber plug. The hole is not threaded. What's the best way to connect a drain line?.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

[slief]

Originally Posted by jerseypete

New bubble king owner here. 160 slim. What is the best way to run a drain line to the collection cup. This is only my 2nd skimmer. My other is a lifereef. It had a drain line installed. The 160 just has a rubber plug. The hole is not threaded. What's the best way to connect a drain line?.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Due to the space saving design, they didn't include a hose connection like the larger BK skimmers and instead give you a hole with a plug so you can put a cup under it to drain it. Kind of odd but that's the way it was designed. If it were me, I would tap the hole and add a threaded fitting into it so I could connect some vinyl tubing or add a thread John Guest valve with some semi rigid tubing to connect it to a jug for easy draining.

[jerseypete]

Originally Posted by slief

Due to the space saving design, they didn't include a hose connection like the larger BK skimmers and instead give you a hole with a plug so you can put a cup under it to drain it. Kind of odd but that's the way it was designed. If it were me, I would tap the hole and add a threaded fitting into it so I could connect some vinyl tubing or add a thread John Guest valve with some semi rigid tubing to connect it to a jug for easy draining.

I thought about that. I didn't measure the hole diameter. But in order to tap a hole you need a hole size a specific diameter. I'm sure they just drilled the hole a standard size 6mm,8mm. And to go the next size up, I don't think there is the space to do that.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk