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02/25/2007, 12:02 PM | #26 | |
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Quote:
not familiar with the phosphates. but it makes sense that if bacteria are breaking down complex molecules that contain phosphates, then phosphates would be released. as far as bioballs being constructed for producing nitrates. yes and no. they where constructed to give maximum surface area for bacteria to grow on and allow maximum flow with the minimum of clogging. ping pong balls have been used as well as rock and sand. basically it has nothing to do with the type of bacteria as long as the bacteria will grow on the different sufaces. so im sure they made sure the bacteria grew on the media before marketing but i dont believe the media was engineered specifically for nitrosomas and nitrobacters only. im just interpreting different findings and facts, ive never done any tests. btw this is an excellent debate! |
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02/25/2007, 07:14 PM | #27 |
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sure it has to do with the type of bacteria, or rather the state they are in. A media that has very deep pores can create the low-02 zones required for anaerobic bacteria that do nitrate conversion. Bio-balls and other media that dont have the deep zones for nitrate reduction cant reduce nitrate, so they can only get the ammonia to nitrite, and the nitrite to nitrate, but then thats it. Now, its possible that with bio-balls and LR, the LR is offsetting the nitrate being produced by the wet-dry, at least for a while, but the problem is that then you are making your LR less efficient. Really, the bio-balls arent doing anything that the LR cant do, and, there is no difference still between having bio-balls submerged or in a wet-dry... its just how much they do it.
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02/25/2007, 07:29 PM | #28 |
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I Give Up
Well,I tried and I tried and the micro bubbles win.
First design:both 1" drain lines into 1 1/2" pipe into 4" tower.By trial and error I varied height of water brake,drilled several vent holes,drilled additional holes below water line.All attempts produced micro bubbles.NG! Second design:each drain line to have separate tower.Did same modifications as first design. NG! I even tried a seperate one for the protien skimmer.NG! All 3 failed bubble towers Final outcome Unless I find a different design, back to the 'eFFin' filter sock.
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02/25/2007, 08:18 PM | #29 |
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is the sock working for you?
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02/25/2007, 08:34 PM | #30 |
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Keelay....What are you using for a water break? Or what would you recommend using?
Thanks |
02/25/2007, 08:49 PM | #31 |
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fio1022
please show mw a pic of the tank overflow i probably can help you now for every one i hope this help this is my news DIY and how is the pluming to i was having lots of mycro bubles because my pump was to fast on the turne rate and the sump is to small plus i wass having to much noise on the overflow tank pic sump overflow buble trap is use for the skimmer to mufler for the noise how is plum top bottom any Q?????? |
02/25/2007, 09:09 PM | #32 | |
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Quote:
I know I have too much flow thru the sump but I refuse to throttle back.I love the circulation in the display tank.I just wish I could find a better solution.A bigger sump is not an option.
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its all about time,space,and money Current Tank Info: 240g,64g acrylic sump/fuge. |
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02/25/2007, 09:11 PM | #33 |
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fio1022 - I came up with this setup for my system and there are no micro-bubbles.
On the far left is a 3" pipe inside an acrylic bubble extractor the drain empties into. I combined Prugs Bubble Extractor and Melev's solution to Micro-Bubbles into one to reduce bubbles and lower the noise. I can also remove the above extractors and run a sock: HTH Jay
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02/25/2007, 09:18 PM | #34 | |
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Quote:
I'm using a dart sequence as my main pump.I have it on a DIY manifold on it that is running a chiller,skimmer/refugium,and a modified mag canister filter.Chiller and mag are below approx.4' head. Still alot of flow.
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its all about time,space,and money Current Tank Info: 240g,64g acrylic sump/fuge. |
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02/26/2007, 02:57 AM | #35 | |
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Quote:
It looked like this when finished. Then I cut it to length so that it would barely fit across the inside of the bubble tower. I literally had to jam it onto place. No glue or fasteners. It's just jammed in there. I might someday works loose. I'll know it when my bubbles in the sump suddenly increase. Heres a crude cross section of the bubble tower. This in now way is an optimized solution. There may be a better way to create a water break. I stopped working on it when the bubbles decreased to an acceptable level. I do get some bubbles out of it. it's less that 20x what I would get without it. Maybe more. Traversing the sump removes these few bubbles. No bubbles make it to the return pump. My main goals were to eliminate both the noise and the salt spray from the bubbles rising and bursting (both big and small). The bubble reduction was a huge plus for me since my sump really handled them pretty well anyways.
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MobiLinc, a new way to experience your home. Visit the MobiLinc Store for low prices and the best quality on INSTEON home automation gear. Current Tank Info: 100G Custom Acrylic, 40 Gallon Sump, DIY Gravity Assisted Protien Skimmer, ATO, 2x175W MH + 1x96W VHO Actinic |
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02/26/2007, 09:18 AM | #36 |
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may want to put a restricter on the pump output. a gate valve would work. that is if you think the pump is to much flow.
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02/26/2007, 12:33 PM | #37 |
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I am actually the person who gave the OP the idea to start this one. I have my buble tower full of LR rubble and if I completely close the return diverter my Pan Worl pump will push around 900-1000gph and my tower has no problem controlling 90% of the bubbles at that rate.
Is the LR in the tower a future concern for Nitrates?
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02/26/2007, 01:46 PM | #38 |
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No, no concern for nitrates, but it is working against you as far as bubble removal goes. You might want to try the bubble remover without the LR inside.
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02/26/2007, 02:42 PM | #39 | |
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Quote:
a. collected by a mech filter that can easily and regularly be cleaned or b. be removed by the skimmer. or a combination of the two. time wise, the longer debris is allowed in the tank the longer it can remineralize and release nitrates into the water as it decomposes. |
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02/27/2007, 04:04 PM | #40 |
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One More Shot
After alot of thought and pvc dust,I came up with this design.
Behold the Bubble Blaster 2000 Don't know if it's going to work.Planning on trying it out later tonight.
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02/27/2007, 08:31 PM | #41 | |
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Re: One More Shot
Quote:
That is some serious water breakage. Looks promising. I would love to see some pics of it in action.
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02/28/2007, 04:52 AM | #42 |
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Another one for the scrap pile.
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02/28/2007, 12:31 PM | #43 |
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there is nothing wrong with the sock filter. just keep it clean. should look into reducing flow through sump.
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02/28/2007, 05:13 PM | #44 |
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There is nothing wrong with the sock.I just hate the routine.I got spoiled from my last tank that didn't micro bubbles.Also didn't have nearly as much circulation.Trade off I guess.
I'm working on one more version of this before I throw in the towel or sock that is...
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02/28/2007, 05:21 PM | #45 |
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OK, call me crazy, but why not just transition to a large diameter "U" at the end of the drain? Wouldn't changing the diameter and direction effectively force any bubbles to surface ? This would effectively create a "brick wall" in terms of a water break.
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05/01/2007, 05:48 PM | #46 | |
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Quote:
Another issue: Salt spray might not be addressed very well either. I guess it depends on which "surface" you are talking about. The U-Tube would have a surface where the drainline entered the U-Tube and on U-Tube outlet. Bubbles on the U-Tube inlet would be fine. On the outlet however, would be brought to the surface but would still generate salt spray and maybe a little noise (hiss)
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MobiLinc, a new way to experience your home. Visit the MobiLinc Store for low prices and the best quality on INSTEON home automation gear. Current Tank Info: 100G Custom Acrylic, 40 Gallon Sump, DIY Gravity Assisted Protien Skimmer, ATO, 2x175W MH + 1x96W VHO Actinic |
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