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02/06/2015, 07:03 AM | #51 |
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02/06/2015, 01:03 PM | #52 |
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02/06/2015, 01:39 PM | #53 |
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hmmm wonder if someone has a cheaper add on version of that to a cell phone. I mean I know you can add a spectrometer reader to a cell phone, but I'm curious if it can accurate measure the actual energy output.
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02/06/2015, 05:15 PM | #54 | |
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Think I found an O2Surplus project ...
http://publiclab.org/notes/mathew/09...s-spectrometer http://www.tricorderproject.org/blog...-spectrometer/ Quote:
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02/06/2015, 05:20 PM | #55 |
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I've been trying to get my hands on some of these. Sadly, they appear to not be in the business of selling:
http://www.hamamatsu.com/resources/p..._kacc1216e.pdf
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02/06/2015, 05:27 PM | #56 |
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Looks great! I have a thread kicking around here somewhere with the same layout, but I was lazy and used the Lumias. I came to give some advice now that its been about a year since they have been running.
Corrosion. Anything that was exposed and about 24 inches off regular flowing saltwater, nothing crazy, has produced enough corrosion to make some of the channels inoperable. Especially where the molex connecters go into the boards, and the wires where they go into the connectors. Of course, anything under 24" was much worse. My work around has been to cover every exposed connector with liquid electrical tape. Obviously, if I had built an enclosure with a water tight glass panel this would have been optimal....but I underestimated the effect of the corrosion so high off the water with the molex connectors. And of course...any leds I didnt have protected behind a lens suffered as the solder immediately went bad. |
02/06/2015, 06:10 PM | #57 |
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Thanks for the note - corrosion is something I want to watch for of course. The upside is I am on entirely gold plate connectors, but that has limited effect. I am considering adding an acrylic shield directly under the LED cluster.
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02/06/2015, 06:47 PM | #58 |
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In my experience a splash shield is NOT an option when saltwater is in play! there are exceptions like mounting things on the ceiling with really narrow optics or potting the whole assembly in optical silicone but that's not an option for most of us .....
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02/06/2015, 06:56 PM | #59 | |
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Quote:
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02/06/2015, 06:58 PM | #60 |
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I have some exposed PCBs in the hood with no conformal coats or anything which don't seem to suffer a problem, but its totally something to watch for.
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02/06/2015, 07:34 PM | #61 |
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Corrosion is less an issue if you are forcing cool dry air into the hood/fixture. In aqualunds case it's in a shed with how many thousand gallons? and no cool, dry, totally salt free air available as would be the case with a display in the home.........still splash guards are a must IMHO.
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02/06/2015, 09:30 PM | #62 |
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Sadly its not characterized for absolute intensity, but I imagine it would be stable and could be calibrated in.
I don't have the equipment to do that properly though
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02/06/2015, 09:33 PM | #63 | |
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Quote:
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02/06/2015, 10:28 PM | #64 |
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I too was going to use acrylic shield, But I know that especially for the high energy spectrum (uv to blue) you can run into problems with diffraction and "burning" the acrylic. basically the separation between the molecules of acrylic aren't the proper distance to prevent the light waves from running into them...heating the material, and darkening it.
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02/06/2015, 10:38 PM | #65 | |
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Quote:
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02/06/2015, 11:21 PM | #66 |
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Yeah good points. I guess I saw a few bad apples and assumed it applied to all of them...and attributed probably the wrong causation to it. I only saw the issues with the 430nm and below but it was probably more due to temperature than diffraction.
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02/07/2015, 05:17 PM | #67 |
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I have 5 of these
http://reefll.com/index.php?route=pr...&product_id=51 on a 36" makers heatskink for the past 1 year shining through the standard makers acrylic shield. There are 0 visible changes in that acrylic.
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02/08/2015, 05:16 PM | #68 |
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Good to know pwreef!
I'm the midst of laying out the LM3414 based driver. Would anyone be interested in the source design files for these boards? I'll be happy to put them up on GitHub or similar, however its not a freeware CAD package so I'm not sure how applicable it will be for everyone.
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02/08/2015, 07:19 PM | #69 | |
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Quote:
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02/13/2015, 07:57 PM | #70 |
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Using an older version of Altium. But I'll happy farm out a Protel compatible set of files, and gerbers, under a CERN license. Time ran out on the driver board last week, will be touching it up this weekend.
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02/21/2015, 09:45 PM | #71 |
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Updates on the LM3414 driver layout:
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02/22/2015, 01:19 AM | #72 |
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I've started populating all of the stuff in this GitHub repo under the CERN Open Hardware license.
https://github.com/theatrus/ledbrick Gerbers, PDFs, drills and a netlist file for the emitter are included. I can provide several CAD export formats (no Eagle, sorry) - let me know what you want and I may be able to provide
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02/22/2015, 06:15 AM | #73 |
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I may not understand all of what it going on, but this is a fantastic thread for the visuals alone. Thanks for sharing, I love DIY and this is a fun read!
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02/22/2015, 05:09 PM | #74 |
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Thanks Electrobes!
I pulled the trigger on a set of OSHPark boards (being Chinese new year and all its the best bet): I'll report back when I have the actual boards in hand :-)
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03/15/2015, 07:02 PM | #75 |
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Update: Got the driver board, but not all of the parts yet!
For future revisions, there is plenty of space to stick the microcontroller + related functionality. Going to keep with the stacked design for now.
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